pretty fun
surfed rockaway today from around 11:30 till almost 2.. wind blowing out of the south.. kind-of side/offshore at the southern end of Rockaway.. Lindy working too but close to 200 people in the water.. about 10 scattered throughout the amiguious peak at Rockajay.. Beach-break A-frames cruising in and peeling nicely.. sometimes mushing out but other times steepening up and almost barrelling.. i caught many solid rides and experienced one of the most resounding off-the-top/lip explosions i've ever felt.. I basically snaked my way onto this steep/slightly pitching wave.. garnered a ball of speed from the drop.. pivoted through a bottom turn/horizontal pump.. then turned toward vertical and collided with the crashing lip.. i could feel the energy push through my legs as the wave completely changed my direction, forcefully turning me back toward the beach.. i kind-of wormed my way into a standing position in the white-water and was stoked.. Rockaway was going.. and Lindy was going last (friday) night as the sun set.
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