E's Surf Report: small glassy and fun

a good surf morning today.. not a trace of wind.. uber-glassy shoulder-high little waves cruising in.. breaking in shallow water at second-lot-sloat.. where i surfed from 6:15 till almost 8.. I probably caught almost 30 waves this morning.. seriously.. many just little nothing waves, but a few that were chunky and fun.. I got a little barrel today too on my frontside! It was this double-up wave that i barely made the drop on, then immediately caught a brief glimpse of the lip careening over my head.. then i was out.. kind-of a mouth-of-the-barrel type barrel.. really fun waves today to attemp maneuvers and floaters and off-the-tops.. just perfect little mini-sections that sped along and were steep enough to get some speed and smack some turns down.. It got real crowded as my session wore on.. from 6:15 till 6:45 i was solo.. but when i got out of the water there were probably 25 guys from sloat to 2nd lot sloat.. i also saw an otter as i pulled up at dawn..

anyhoo.. if you're sitting at home right now.. go get some before the wind picks up..

i also have pictures that i'll post when i get home from work.. i didn't have time to deal this morning..

peace!

i MUST get a barrel this fall or winter. i think i am due for one... went to sloat last evening. kinda fun, but i got myself freaked out surfing solo... i got in the water around some dudes, but they all moved down the beach together... odd, because where i was the waves were just as good... you know when one dude paddels away from the crowd everyone follows for some basic animal instinct of staying in a group... well, i didn't follow and surfed solo... but there was something about the color of the water and the light in the sky that got me freaked out.... just nice to see that you can surf solo and not freak yourself out. maybe i'm just a puss sometimes.

one last thing before i end this winded post... i bought a bright yellow leash since my last snapped... you know how fishing lures are bright colors? is it such a great idea to have a super bright flashy leash under the water attracting whatever animal life below?... ok, now i am being a puss... back to work.

Posted by: trippe dog at July 30, 2002 12:20 PM

i'm the same way with surfing solo, especially at OB. generally if i see someone in the water i'll paddle somewhere in the vicinity of the person..15 yards or so

Posted by: scott at July 30, 2002 02:06 PM

so YOU guys are the guys! I'm always amazed that whenever i paddle out solo or away from some group.. people inevitably paddle out right where i am, or paddle over to where i am, usually when the whole beach is empty. I really dislike surfing in groups so am always hunting for solo peaks.. I go down to Fort Funston sometimes when OB is really crowded.. Trippe, you're totally right about the weird instinctive herd mentality.. I'm not trying to be bitchy to you heads.. i understand the fear of whitey and feel that shit too! gruesome fear bros! but i feel that my sessions are seriously compromised when i'm maneuvering and jostling with other surfers in the lineup.. plus i feel like i'm disrespecting the surfer(s) on a peak if i paddle out to their area when there are other vacant peaks around. I'd rather have that little lump in my stomach of surfing solo (or preferably with friends!!!) than to surf in a group.

Trippe.. you know what they say.. "Yum Yum Yellow!" i had that flourescent yellow board for years and everybody used to tell me that..

sorry for this rant.. Trippe and Scott.. you guys are rad.. I'm not trying to harsh on surfing in groups.. but.. it's just funny because Jeremy (my roomate) and i are always flabergasted when we're the only people surfing OB at 6:15am or something and a group of dudes paddle right out to where we are.. even though the whole beach is empty. at that point i'll give up the peak to them and paddle away..

tell me if i suck?? am i a bitchy/jaded surfer? should i enjoy chilling and sharing and surfing with others more than hunting and catching as many waves as i possibly can? sometimes this weird/channeled drive takes over me where i just want to catch as many waves as i possibly can and i get all obsessed.. i think that i need to chill out a bit..

Posted by: e at July 30, 2002 02:35 PM

o yeah.. trippe.. you are definitely due for a barrel.. i remember you dropping into a nice, steep left at Lindy about a year ago.. evening session.. all glassy.. and i thought "that dude's about ready to get barrelled".. and... you are..

Posted by: e at July 30, 2002 02:39 PM

I think it all depends on your ability and the ability of the people around you, as well as where you're surfing. I basically suck at surfing so I'm stoked to surf in groups -- I'm not losing waves that I would otherwise have gotten, I know enough to stay out of people's way (for the most part), and it's nice not to be the only shark bait sitting out there. If I were a better surfer (like e), I'd be less into groups because I would have to either give up waves or constantly jostle for position. I definitely agree though that the best thing is sharing a peak with friends...

Posted by: mwsf at July 30, 2002 02:59 PM

i definitely get frustrated too when people paddle right next to me in an open OB lineup..definitely a frustrating experience. I guess I try and paddle out about 10 yards away from someone so at least i'm in screaming distance:)
Hey someone left their 6'4 boards at Pacheco..from the looks of the sign at Java Beach, he just drove off and completely forgot about his boards sitting on the grass. what a bummer.

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