DAMN!! GOOODD!!
shiit.. sorry about my late-ass report.. i was stuck in meetings all morning.. looks like peeps have been discussing on the board anyway.. nice!!..
well.. i fully enjoyed the South Swell wrapping into OB last night and this morning.. i've never seen such a distinctly south swell angle.. Sitting in the linup looking south, you could see three or four lines of swell all peeling/barrelling along the beach.. it was SICK!! i agree with some that it was tough to get into waves.. but.. i actually got into a good rythm (sp?) and caught a bunch of memorable rides last night and this morning.. Conditions were glassy and the low tide created some serious barrel action.. this morning i took off on this one steep set-wave peak, forced/willed my body/board into position.. then screamed down the line for a second, pig-dogging.. before seeing this GIHUGIC slab of barrelling wave throw out in front of me!! I instinctively turned toward the shore to get out of its fucking way and then the whole world basically exploded around me as the barrel impacted on the shallow sand-bar and detonated everything around, including me.. i basically went flying off my board but gleefully retained that vision of a seriously throwing slab of liquid guillotine doing its immaculate dance right in front of me.. that was awesome.. I mean.. i was fucking bugging out there this morning and last night.. it was SOOO cool to have that legit south swell pumping through.. with solid/glassy/steep/rippable/barrelling sections on offer.. i didn't get any sick barrel time but had a few barrel/cover-up/wave crashing on my head type of experiences.. It was also fun to just take off on some groundswelly lefts.. it really reminded me of taking off on waves in Indo.. kind-of slowly forming, distinct mounds of wave that rise and steepen as the approach breaking, and then just buckle and throw out when achieving critical bottom depth.. soo fun!! arghh.. i'm basically frothing over here thinking about it.. i was rethinking many of my morning rides while in my meetings.. i think that i kooked out on about as many as i "ripped".. but.. there was NOBODY out at dawn patrol at Sloat!?!! very weird.. but.. cool with me.. man!! i'm frothing!!!
woooordd!!
and it looksl like our east coast brethren are getting waves now too!! Kus sent in some pics of Costa Rica that i'll post shortly..
anyhoo. back to work for me..
go surf..
Nice E,
Man, I totally bailed this morning. I just couldn't get outta bed. I'm definitely outta here early. Hopefully there's some swell left. Did you see those Jersey pics I sent? Damn!
Posted by: germ at September 10, 2002 01:40 PMSounds like you enjoyed yourself. Killer!
Posted by: Fustrating South! at September 10, 2002 04:10 PMSurfed Sloat all day yesterday. Was wondering
is Stinson Beach, Cronkite or some other
beach was catching the 180 degree swell?
Does anyone know a better beach
not including the Santa cruz area.
THANKS!
Nice to see you got some. Serious recant about same experiences there last night. Big beast bowling up, paddle like a bitch, get the wave, get up, and then toss! Foam everywhere, hold on, DAMN. Where's my board? Where is my BOARD? Shit, on the beach!
That was my deal, huge white water ripped my leash off. Thought I busted my board but I guess I could have sacrificed it so see what we have all been seeing out there. Glad I didn't as I am outtie to go get some more.
See you out there if you make it.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 10, 2002 04:57 PMnice work man. sounds fun!
Posted by: pope at September 10, 2002 05:27 PMAlthough its strength seems to pale
Posted by: kus at September 10, 2002 06:21 PMin comparison to the bombs y'all are
riding, Jersey is firing with some
head high+ T.S.Gustav swell. Rode Bay
Head this evening...
walls ripping down the beach...sick.
The bump is supposed to stick around
for a few more days-
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