E's Surf Report

i'm not a fan of the pros.....i prefer to watch them on video.

a few friends of mine are fans. and they are brazilian, and you know how proud the brazilians are so i'm going to rub their nose in the fact that the surf sucked there.....again.

to listen to them talk about brazil you would wonder why they live here at ocean beach when it is so perfect there?

anyway....i'm going to go ride those foggy lines at sloat and maybe i'll report to you later.

i like the site. see if you can get your updates on earlier as i'm unemployed and can't get up unless it's on.

and yeah, i'm east coast 6 years removed. jersey, long island and rhode island. they have days but i dont miss it...

tom.. i hear you on the Brazilian machismo! The Brazzo's have the WORST reputation in Indo and in Hawaii.. the global surfing population pretty much despises them.. and I've actually seen why, although it's a stereotype and admittedly i met many Brazilians who were great guys. and the ladies!!! FUUUCKK!! hottest women on earth! But yeah.. generally.. in INdo and Hawaii.. the brazilians usually roll in huge groups.. they all paddle out to a break at the same time.. they "generally" don't understand how a point/reef linup works.. A few times i was surfing one of the more popular Indo waves such as Periscopes or Ulus.. and we (aussies, south africans, americans, brits, etc) would have a rototing linup situation working.. we're everybody would actually take turns as the waves came in it created the best vibe ever in the water.. then the Brazzos would paddle out en masse and just try to take over, spoiling the mutually beneficial linup system.. I saw many fights between Brazzos and others..

you could also make fun of your Brazilian friends by pointing out that even though there are a shitload of Brazilians on the WCT tour, not one of them sits better than 27th place or so.. and the bottom 8 spots are all Brazilians..

also note that you can't make fun of them for the cancellation of the Figueira Pro because it was in Portugal, not Brazil!

anyhoo.. go get some at Sloat and let us know how it is.

I'm not really into pro surfing although with Kelly Slater back, I've been keeping an eye on it. They sure were getting the juice down at Trestles for the tour stop a few weeks ago...

Hit Lindy at around 9:30 this morning. Tiny knee-to-waist high waves breaking in about waist-deep water. Glassy. Some peelers but a lot of closeouts dumping all at once. I had fun getting a bunch of rides on super schlongy. Five people out when I got in the water, Twenty-five people out when I went in.

Looking better out here at the beach...

Pro sports is a weird phenom. In a way, you gotta ask yourself "why surfing? why does surfing have to have a football rah-rah to it? Like, do we have to have surfing in the Olympics? And if we do, do the Americans have to win it?" That said, if you like a professional surfer or personality (or if you hate one) it can be really exciting to watch the scores come in, especially now that aspworld tour kinda has it's web act together.

I guess I can chim in on this topic due to the fact that I don't want to work right. Surf report first.

Checked it from OB to Lindy today, schwag all around. OB looked the best but it was so gloomy that I couldn't bring myself to paddle out. Better yet, I carved on some carveboards with some buds at our secret breaks (otherwise known as local paved roads). If you haven't ridden one of these, you need to, they are cool as shit. www.carveusa.com

As for pro surfing, love and hate relationship. Some pro surfers are worth watching and following, some are not. I am sure some of the guys that tear up OB have similar skills to other lesser pro surfers. Guys like Slater, the Irons bros, my goofy footed brother Luke Egan, Machado, etc. are all cool as shit. I think it just gets a bad rap from some of the attitudes. The tour is cool but if you are going to be a professional athlete, you should be surfing competitions all the time, not once a month. More contests, more respect, otherwise boat trips will still rule.

sloat 2nd lot and on down to cliffs at funston have to get the green light today. the south showed long lines and 2.4ft@17 seconds. for those that know south swells and how they feel those sandbars you know it was good.

head high waves or shoulder high waves i dont really know as everyone calls them differently but hollow waves. i surfed from 11:30 until 2 and then 5-7....in the fog and with a pod of 3o seals barking, pelicans everwhere.

big mushroom sout swell lines out the back dumping inside.

it was uncrowded all day and 10 of my buddies throughout the day reaped. so i saw the gang and it's crazy but....this was like a secret swell?

i heard there was a crowd up at kellys for the evening but it was better and glassy all day according to many of the 10 I knew at sloat who checked the whole beach.

i guess when the cams are fogged in the crowds don't show? maybe we should wipe out all cams and surf forecasts?

or maybe this "pulse" was not as well forecasted or everyone is surfed out from last week?

i'm on wadeel creek tomorrow and shoulda been there today.

oh yeah...i heard the south lines did not show until around 10-30.....empty.....

oh yeah.....no joke. as far as the brazzos are concerned the crew i surf with are all a bunch of years removed from their homelands (still proud) and the 2 i'm closest with absolutely rip everything from pt arena to mavs and are the nicest guys you'll meet.

but yeah...i do tease them that everyone around the world hates them in the lineups....

fuck....i look like a kook. portugal it is then?

but hey brazilians speak portugese so ...ahh close enough......and i did mention i dont follow the tour....

anyway....i'll chime in from time to time and try not to piss off you working folk when the midday tide is right and the unemployed get it good when ya cant.

surf came up last night. Every few minutes there was a 6 footer that would roll in and catch everyone off guard. The bigger sets were breaking in shallow water..making for sketchy conditions.

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