E's Surf Report: side/offshore.. bigger than it looked

Lerm and i surfed Second Lot sloat this morning.. the wind was raging out of the NE.. blowing side/offshore.. the waves looked disorganized and uninviting from the parking but we saw some attractive sections and feathering offshore lips so decided to give it a go.. when we got down to the beach we realized shit was bigger than we thought and that there were about 5 or 6 rows of white-water to contend with, with huge slabs of barrelling craziness on the outside.. 20 or 30 duckdives and a throbbing ice-cream headache later we were on the outside.. the wind was whipping cascades of spray off the top of the waves and the situation was generally very intense, as waves would randomly rise up and barrel on the outside or draw you into the inside and then not break at all.. There were all kinds of waves coming through, but predominantly the waves would cruise in as these lumpy/thick masses and then fucking wall up precipitously and then throw out the thicky lips.. sometimes peeling.. more-often closing out. I managed to score some fun rides, did a nice drawn-out front-side carve on my last wave..

shit was intense..

the new surfer's journal is here and i'm pissed because they did this huge article on a wave in Sumba, Indonesia.. basically exposing it with huge glossy pics and an overdramatic/sensual story that will surely help to send droves of surfers there! fucking sucks!! the article also sensationalizes this one guy named Claude Graves, who set up and runs a Tavarua (exlusive wave rights) type of place at this one wave. The article makes him out to be this soul-ful saint when in reality he's a BIATCH who doesn't let surfers not staying at his complex surf the wave.. it cost something ridiculous like $200 a night to stay at his place and $2 a night to stay at the place i stayed, a 45 minute walk up the hillside. We would walk down to the wave and Claude would be standing at the beach, waiting to tell us that we couldn't surf there because he had guests coming.. and that if we didn't like it he would "make things hard for us!"... FUCKER!!! i'm so pissed at Surfer's Journal!! i used to respect them.. but now i see that they represent the same hypocritical, mass-media enterprise as the rest of the surf mags.. they even included a frickin map in the article!!! i mean!! COME ON!!! i'm really bitter about this as that wave was fantastic and the area very remote and tribal.. without much western influence.. anyhoo..