E's Surf Report

This end of the beach is pretty messed up too. Hard to get fired up after yesterday's mellowness. I miss Saturday, but I did make it out Sunday. Decent waves very very occasionally. Kelly's was actually the best peak around, but packed with the normal gang.

Silas "surfed" at the water's edge yesterday, but he is still pretty scared of anything over 6 inches deep. Does anyone remember how fearless they were about the waves at age 3?

E, what's your Christmas plan?

definitely some fun waves on saturday. it was almost comical watching everyone around me paddle north all the time, like one big exodus. there were still some overhead sets coming in from time to time as well and offered up some big barrell..wild stuff.

Robme.. great to hear that you're back in the water.. definitely good news.. also exciting that Silus is shredding it up again.. last i saw him surfing was in the tide-pools at Davenport and he was shralping super hard.

my current christmas plan is to go home on the 20th of december and come back on the 3rd of January.. though i'm thinking of changing my flight and coming back before jan 1.. why do ask about my plans? you renting a place in Pt. Arena??

my first wave-riding memory is bodysurfing in Jersey (LBI) in Kindergarden (around 5 yrs. old i think).. i already knew how to swim pretty good so i was stoked.. I remember crying though after being tossed around by a bigger wave and the feeling of rough sand scraping on my face and back. Then in 2nd grade or so my dad bought me one of the first Boogie boards (orange one with styrofoam-looking bottom).. I vaguely remember the slow progression during summers in elementary school of first learning how to take waves to the beach.. then realizing that the real fun lies in cruising down the line.. For some reason i understood what it meant to "shred" and do tricks and rip down the line, even when i was a little grom on a boogie board.. When in 4th grade i was a dishwasher all summer at this restaurant on Block Island and there were 2 older dudes (high-school) who i worked with who surfed.. I totally idolized their style and used to watch them surf while i boogie-boarded off to the side.. they used to surf at Black Rock, which is a rock reef below these cliffs on Block Island, and i was super intimidated to boogie board there.. so i just practiced my chops on the more tame beach break on the other side of the island.. I remember trying barrel rolls and 360s and actually managed to stand up on my little orange boogie a few times.. then in Junior High my friend bought a skim board and we started skimboarding a shitload during low-tide in jersey, he had a house in Avalon so we cruised down there basicically every weekend in the summer.. I started doing 360s on the skimboard, started trying to hit the little incoming waves and sort-of surf them, like i had seen on skimboarding videos and shit.. At this time my friend's and i were super into skiing. (7th-9th grade).. this was before snowboarding came along so skiing was still the most radical and progressive mountain sport. It was skiing that really showed me how to freestyle.. My friends and i got super into skiing moguls and trying all kinds of airs (twisters, daffys, iron-crosses, helicopters, spreads, screamin'-deamons, etc.).. then in 9th grade i saved up about $250 and bought the now legendary "Mellow Yellow" surfboard at Surfer's Supply in Ocean City, NJ.. 6'10", neon yellow WRV 1980's style shortboard.. I was SOOO FUCKING PSYCHED.. That summer i probably surfed 30 times and by the end of the summer was standing and riding when the waves were mushy and mellow.. I used to place Mellow Yellow on my bed, with the fins hanging off the end, and practice my pop-ups.. I had MANY MANY MANY frustrating days when Jersey served up those steep, pounding shore-dumpy waves that it often does.. I rember a summer session in 11th grade when my parents and their friends were all looking out at the lineup from this posh house that my parent's friend rented.. all watching me.. and i was pearling and nose-diving and just getting demolished.. and these two Jersey rippers were getting barrelled and just killing it.. I was so mad that i remember punching my board in frustration.. it was rough..

then after i graduated high school... i could just start to go backside, and i was pumping pretty good on my forehand.. my main man Kus and i took a surf trip up to Block Island and scored some super-fun, glassy Scotch Beach.. this was one of the first times i ever got stoned too.. and i remember cruising down the line on this little 3ft glassy right.. looking down through the transclucent water at rocks and sand and just LOVING it!! then i went to college and basically got addicted to footbag and forgot about surfing for almost 4 years! then, after graduating college, i was down in VA Beach with Dr. Deni, after a Phish show, and we went for a slurf in VA. beach.. i hadn't surfed in 4 years so i was all nervous.. but the conditions were small and i ended up getting about 100 mini rides and had the greatest time.. i was stoked! but footbag still ruled in my life so i didn't really think about surf when i came out to California 4 years ago.. then i got hurt playing footbag and my friend Tom Haan took me out to Lindy.. let me borrow his wetty and longboard.. Lindy was randomly going off that day and i ended up getting some of the best rides of my life!!! seriously.. it was sunny and peeling and pretty easy to deal. after that i was hooked.. I soon brought Mellow Yellow out from the east coast and have been surfing as hard as possible ever since..

anyhoo..

e

Shark siting at OB on Sunday!!!

from surfpulse.com
(11/4/02) Tom Hauscarriague, of Pacifica, was surfing at Ocean Beach, San Francisco on Sunday afternoon when he met one of the most powerful yet understated locals of San Francisco- a great white shark.

Hauscarriague, who has been surfing for 20 years, was surfing a peak near Sloat with only three others around dusk yesterday. Hauscarriague claims he was riding a wave when he saw a 12-foot great white shark swimming approximately two feet in front of him on the same wave. Tom suspects that the shark was eyeing him as dinner until it realized that he wasn't a seal. After cruising in front of the surfer for a few moments, the shark changed course and submerged into the depths.

Apparently Hauscarriague barely made a section of the wave during the encounter. The local Carcharodon carcharias might not have been so welcoming to the Pacifica surfer had he fallen from his board. Fortunately for Hauscarriague, he's an experienced surfer.

Ty Shapiro, Public Safety Lifeguard at Ocean Beach, said that Hauscarriague called their headquarters today to report the incident. Shapiro, who spoke directly to Hauscarriague, was convinced of the surfer's sincerity in reporting the incident.

Sometimes surfers start rumors about sharks in an attempt to keep crowds at bay. Even when someone credible reports a shark sighting, there are naysayers who try to shrug off shark sightings as cases of mistaken identity. Shapiro believes Hauscarriague's story because, "He's been surfing for 20 years," and more important, "I could hear the adrenaline in his voice."

Shapiro mentioned that the lifeguards, whose primary goal is public safety, wanted to get the word out about the sighting.

The only other shark incident reported recently to local lifeguards occurred at Stinson Beach last month. In that occurrence, a panicked seal, which had apparently been bitten by a shark, jumped onto the board of an equally alarmed surfer.

With the serene backdrop of sunny, autumn skies that Northern Californians have enjoyed at the beach over the past few days, it's easy to forget that this is the season of the shark. And regardless of the time of year, we regularly surf within one of the most densely populated areas of great white sharks in the world.

Respect the locals and don't hesitate to let one drop in on you- especially if it's ten times your size. But whatever you do, don't fall.

E, thanks for the story. As a parent I am just trying to remind myself how scary it can be so I don't ruin it for me wee tot by pushing him into something that he is (quite naturally) afraid of. Cool story, your memoir. I love hearing about Block Island, as I have a similar feeling about see the stones slide by under water. I hardly ever surf Mansion et al, but the few times I have, after a big NE'er, it has been awesome. And Mellow Yellow -- I can't believe you've had that board since 9th grade! Dude, you are faithful!

Yeah, trying to arrange a PTA thing. I am thinking of doing it some Fri/Sat/Sun/Mon *after* 1/7/03, so you have plenty of time to get back. Cool.

Mellow Yellow's Brush With Death
circa 1992...ethan and i take a trip late summer up to Block Island for some SOLID surf. After a ridiculously sweetness session at "chill beach"-point break that sent a mellow glassy right for about a quarter mile, we roll onto overhead conditions at scotch beach. Overhead was scary to us both at the time!!!, but sweetly conditions.
About the 2nd or 3rd ride comes in and my boy e gets banged up on the shallow sandy, rocky bottom... his board (mellow yellow) gets totally split in half. Easy E is fuming!! he wants to leave block island immediately and fails to come up with a rational thought for about 15 minutes post-board bashing. We both are standing over the board, near tears, contemplating the strength of duct tape's adhesive power- When this dude, Ora Diamond, sees us buggin on the beach and calmly explains how he knows something about board repair..., and in the generousness and comraderie of the sport, this guy totally resurrects ethans board and we get another week of stellar surf conditions. surf trips rule kus

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