E's Surf Report: ummm.. YEAH!!!!

woke up expecting the storm front to have moved in.. but.. nahh.. calm and gentle in the air at my house on 22nd ave.. hmm.. not quite light yet (6:20).. better get Lerm up because it's probably going to be good.. "Lerm! Get outta bed Biiiaatch!!".. Lerm's up.. we're out the door.. head down the hill to Orschmegma.. walk up to the dunes and look out onto utterly glassy, totally empty head-high plus glorious groundswell breaking way on the outside and just funnelling and peeling along in both directions!!! umm.. YEAH!!! Looked pretty big too.. but we were soo fucking on it.. take a couple on the head then we were out there.. This new swell has some serious girth to it!!! waves very bulky and thick... conditions impeccably pristine in the early morning.. very quiet and still with maybe a breath of offshore wind.. water surface oily glass with thick, classic OB groundswell A-Frames cruising in!!! yeah!!! My first wave might have been my best of the session.. Big (overhead and a half) wall comes marching in from the farallons and i'm paddling west to head it off.. i spin and dig dig dig to get into it, even paddling down the face for a second to get over the ledge.. then i'm in.. i'm up.. i'm racing down the face.. lay down the bottom turn.. then float and glide down the wall of this well overhead, stunningly glassy wave!!! a few pumps and a mellow turn.. kick out the back before it closes out.. and i'm fucking grinning ear to ear.. Jerm seems a little hesitant, as the waves are pretty much the biggest we've seen this season.. but then he gets his flow going on some inside monsters and he's laughing with excitement.. still NOBODY else out for about 30 minutes.. then a kneeboarder and also Alex from Aqua surfshop paddles out.. Alex takes off on this macking left and gets smooshed real good by the barrel of the morning.. Conditions slightly deteriorate as our session wears on.. but still exciting and awesome.. even though the tide was coming up, it seemed that maybe the waves were breaking less on the outside sandbars and more on the inside and so barrelling more and breaking super steep..

basically EPIC conditions this morning.. i either hope that you got some or that you're getting some right now..

i wish i took pics..

sorry for the late report.. we surfed for almost 2.5 hours and then i was late for a work meeting.. Republicans in power!! grr..