E's Surf Report: big.. got some..

Super active all saturday.. skate, bike, hike, etc... kind-of dose off at 7:30 reading a mag.. tell myself i'll wake up in time to head out on the town at 9:30.. 10pm rolls around and i wake.. watch Metallica "Cliff em' All" video for about 20 minutes then wake up at 6:15am.. huh! ok.. might as well cruise to Santa Cruz.. get to Pleasure Point around 8am.. Overhead+ bombs cruising in outside of First point.. only about 10 guys out.. the water is all brown and churned and frothed. Squalls of rain on and off. grey, dynamic sky. I contemplate going out but am wary of the bumpy, tumbly sea-surface and also because of the way the waves are breaking.. As the huge groundswell mounds approach 1rst peak they rise and bumble and grow and rise and rise. meanwhile surfers are scratching and clawing and clammering to try to get in to the large/lazy beasts. Finally somebody makes it over the ledge and it's an aired-out big-wave drop down the grand face.. At that point you are very psyched to be that surfer.. Often a long, lined-up penultimate point break wall would open itself to you... swooping bottom turn, looonngg draawwwn ooouuuttt top-turn/cuttie followed by another bottom turn, couple pumps for speed, then another loonngg drawwwnn oouutt top-turn/cuttie.. when i say long and drawn out it's because these waves, being large and powerful but also methodical and slow, offered up a glistening canvas on which to carve.. It was fun to watch but the reality remained that only about 1 ride came through every 4 or 5 minutes, it was very big, and also dark and polluted.. A guy i met in Indo meanders by on his cruiser bike and invites me to breaky.. siiick! we rap for a bit.. his girly's moving out-bumming, the hook has been schweet this summer, Drainpipes on the East side was going off during the south swells, some guy at first point often paddles out and yells at all the longboarder to "move down to O'neils!" Glacier National Park is siiiick, etc..

then i went to the Lane.. Huge and Wild with waves crossing and peeling and going bananas all over middle peak/slot/indicators... Only about 20 or 30 peeps spread around through the whole area.. reason being it was huge and dirty.. Promptly paddled out to indicators and caught some great bombs.. big-wave-feeling drops then chunky point-break walls for a few memorable full-rail cutbacks!! ahhh!!! felt gooood!

then cruised home..

past the Jetty which looked great!!! glassy and head-high..

anyhoo.. Kus and Henessey!! Jersey! I'm planning on getting a few seshies over Christmas.. i'm home from the 20th to the 3rd..

siiickk