E's Surf Report: huge and stormy

hey y'all... sorry no reports over the weekend.. for some reason i can't access E's surf report from my home computer!! sucks eh! anyhoo.. i hiked up to this little hilltop behind my house this morning (moraga heights, a.k.a "Craggily Peak") and took a good, long look at OB.. there were peaks and lines of white-water stretching out for about a mile!!! seriously!! In the middle of the beach there were about 300 rows of whitewater!! I'm fricken serious! Crazy shite!.. but VFWs and Sloat had only about 5 or 10 rows.. man.. not exactly a super mellow OB surf experience..

i did, however, find some surf yesterday.. paddled out to this uber-crowded, reeling, protected little break.. there were about 40 guys on it and it was soooo difficult to get any waves.. after a little over two hours i actually paddled in without getting one ride!! I didn't even come close to paddling into any!!! It's not like i couldn't deal with the waves at this spot.. i've scored many many rides here in the past.. it's just that yesterday, being sunday and all, and considering the fact that there weren't that many places to surf, this place was a frothing mess of growling, jockeying, seething surfers. the waves were ridiculous though.. i witnessed heeps of cavernous, successfully-exited barrels, and just wave after wave of high-performance, down-the-line perfection. Most of the area's stand-out surfers were out there.. i saw Andy Olive drop in to a few bombs.. i saw our boy Christian score one super-nice set wave. His boy Alex caught a few beautiful waves and also suffered one end-over-end wipeout over the thick/ugly falls.. Usually i can work my way into at least a few scraps at the crowded/hard-core spots.. but yesterday just wasn't my day i guess, which is disheartening.. cause the waves were soooo damn good..

seems like the wind has a abated a bit since yesterday.. it's blowing 7mph out of the SW.. gusty though.. looks like there are storms stacked up across the whole North Pacific.. jesus.. i mean.. we're going to get pounded for the next 2 weeks solid.. kinda wish that i was in So. Cal for these swells..

the pipeline masters started up again yesterday and witnessed some gruesome conditions.. many of the ASP guys failed to even make one successful ride!! tons of gnarly wipeouts and saves by the jet-ski lifeguards! today conditions are supposed to be 6-10 feet, glassy and perfect.. daaamnn!!