E's Surf Report: not quite..

kelly's was fun. the rest of the beach was sideshore, kelly's more offshore. shoulder high on the sets and fun little barrels.

that artwork is awesome. keep up the good work.

Posted by: bbr at February 5, 2003 10:07 AM

e - i think that i may have seen you at Sloat this morning. did you pull up in a black Jetta at around 7:15? i was the dude freezing in the blue jacket while gazing out over the smallish close-outs hoping that by merely staring at it conditions would improve.

i was going to bail, but then sh pulled up and we figured...hell...we've come this far! that, combined with my 2-month work project overseas that has drastically limited my sessions this season, motivated me to change into my wetty in the blasting wind and give it a go. so...into the water we went just as the sun was hitting the periodic outside set that would look promising, but would then mush out.

we were out for about an hour and i'd be lying if i said the conditions were sweet....your description is pretty much dead-on. however, if one could battle the offshores and manage to actually drop-in, there were a few short drops and bottom-turns to be had....and it was beautiful just being out there. the rose light of sunrise hitting the water, the crystal clear air, and the sparkling spray streaming from the lips in the (arctic) offshores....and no one else in the water!

as the sesh progressed, conditions seemed to be improving and i moved inside a little. caught a few short rides in rapid succession, but then one right corner worked out for me and provided two workable sections.

maybe it was just the Slurpee-head, but by the end of the sesh conditions seemed to be cleaning up nicely and the wind was backing off. could be kind on the mid-tide.

as i left the water, another dude was getting in. he paddled out and proceeded to rip it! short rides in which he somehow managed to throw the occassional lip-smack and even got one briefly-lived cover-up. frickin' nice to watch someone with skill.

thanks, again, for maintaining this site...and for all the positive stoke. it sustained me while i was away.

Posted by: ck at February 5, 2003 10:14 AM

ck - yup.. that was me in the jetta.. ya should have said hi.. i probably would have paddled out with you.

damn.. well.. i guess i should have surfed this morning.. and checked Ortega and VFers instead of Ortega and Sloat,.. oh well.. i bet it's sweet right now.. that sucks.. grr.. now i'll have to jones until tomorrow morning..

e

Posted by: e at February 5, 2003 10:21 AM

e - next time i definitely will say hi...i wasn't sure if it was you. good luck hangin' in there today without your daily fix. i look forward to reading about your (sure-to-be) sweet sesh tomorrow.

Posted by: ck at February 5, 2003 10:26 AM

oh damn, thanx guys..the bottom one is a study for an oil painting im gonna do...maybe i can send it when its done (he he)..thanx for putting those up e! killer..

has the wind died a bit out there?...im thinking im might take another long lunch..

Posted by: bagel at February 5, 2003 10:29 AM

got down to Noriega at around 7:00 and it looked too small to surf. i felt that even if i tried to get into one of those little waves that the side/offshores would blow me off of it. drove over to Sloat, looked the same. i debated driving to VFW thinking "ahh it'll just be the same". drove to VFW and saw some ok peaks. paddled out and actually got some nice chest high sections off a nice little bar setup. couple lefts and couple rights. i reconfirmed to myself this morning that it really pays to check the whole beach. e, i musta passed you this morning.

Posted by: lerm at February 5, 2003 10:34 AM

Checked from VFW's to Sloat around 7:10 and I just couldn't do it! Wind, cold, etc. Compared to yesterday, I just could not motivate. Chugged on down to Ole Standby and it was lumpy crap with some promise. Not sure what that means other than if the wind was no existant, it might have been good.

Anyway, who did that bottom painting? That is sweet. Might need the hook up.

Definitely going to check it at lunch as it seems like it is calming down out there.

Kaiser

Posted by: Kaiser at February 5, 2003 11:04 AM

I like the art a lot, its surprising most art i just dont like but i like the cartoonish faces. I might hit it tommorrow dawn at OB...I come from Alameda so for me i get wet pretty much no matter what, then off to the "morgue" as my friend calls this place Siebel (where i work). I am trying to get my wife to agree to move to S.F. so i can actually get better at surfing.
by the way I have a bunch of ugly paintings up on my site, pydesigns.com back when i use to paint if anyone is bored and needs a diversion.
Now i spend what little free time i have surfing...When i get laid off from my contracting gig, then i will go nuts surfing till my wife wonders what i am doing with my life and i give her a sheepish grin and say "whats the problem?". Anyway love the site e keeps me up for dawn patrol....COurse i hate it when everyone is scoring waves but me, like yesterday, but sometimes i gotta make money..

Posted by: Phil Young at February 5, 2003 11:35 AM

Lunchies: I checked Kelly's not too long ago. It's in the lee of Sutro Hts, so there is a little less smoke. I imagine it's bigger elsewhere though, and it does look like the wind is down a bit, it's warming up out here -- beautiful, actually.... so there you go. (I'm going for a run myself, but not because it's crappy surf or anything...) Cool pix of the art, btw.

Posted by: robme at February 5, 2003 11:41 AM

Oh yeah, nice real time wind chart, E. Have you tried one of the 23 hour animations? It looks like they are off line right now, so not much to see (the animated gif has some old data). Gives me ideas...

Posted by: robme at February 5, 2003 11:54 AM

the art made my day.
glad that i found a web spot where everyone is as obsessed with checkin it as i am...
thanks for all this.
i am heading to costa rica in a few weeks (tamarindo area). i was just going to bring my 6'8" but now i want to bring my 9'3", as well. comment on the quivver?

Posted by: betho at February 5, 2003 12:02 PM

just got back from Costa Rica tamarindo, i stayed at Witches Rock Surf Camp. Anyway, i longboarded one day and had fun and road my 7 6" . Your board selection sounds perfect as you might find a few flat days to long board which i did. You can rent long boards there too everywhere, if you dont want to bring it. I think the price is anywhere between 10 dollars to 25 a day. I am envious, have a great time!!!! A few things i realized right off, you can spend hours in the water without getting tired, no cold water, no wetsuit, not much duckdiving = endurance. If you surf OB, you are in for a shock its as easy as hell surfing costa rica and fun.
PS. its mostly a shortboard and long board place, hope that answers your question.

Posted by: Phil Young at February 5, 2003 12:18 PM

OB looks so smooth on the surfline cam. seems perfect for someone like me who like's ob no more than head high. i'll be in san diego this weekend surfing in warm water for once..

Posted by: scott at February 5, 2003 12:19 PM

betho:

wouldn't haul that log to tamarindo unless you have some kind of special attachment to it. seems like a hassle to haul a longboard. you can rent decent ones there anyway.

it is pretty small usually, except when the little reef (pico pequeno) goes off. make sure you look at it on low tide before you surf it. lotta jagged edges to it. rest of beach is smooth, tho'.

playa grande (across the rivermouth, north) is usually a little bigger than the beachbreak at tam. might want to get a boat to ferry you across the river. its full of crocs.

take your shortie and head south to avellanes while in the area! for about $20 you should be able to hook up a ride there and arrange for them to return to pick you up a few days later or whenever. the place cranks pretty good and has several peaks that spreads everyone out. a little further south is an even better spot that pitches pretty hard -- ask around about it. watch out for the huge agro pig sleeping under the trees on the beach (if its still there -- they keep threatening to cook it for xmas dinner every year but they don't, it just gets fatter and fatter...)

have fun.

--

Posted by: grant at February 5, 2003 12:35 PM

arggh.. i'm salivating thinking of user-friendly warm-water barrels down in costa rica!! You're psyched betho! my advice would be to take your shortboard, leave the longy at home.. Traveling with a 6'8" piece of luggage is already a pain in the arse.. the addition of a 9' pier would only add to the annoyance, and probably not hook you in the water that much.. But.. i actually don't think that longboards are ever really necessary in modern surfing... ha!! that's just my two cents. even on the smallest of days i'd rather have my shortboard. I guess the only exception would be a super super mushy/small point break like in front of O'neils house in santa cruz. I own a 10' longboard, and used to take it out once in a while... but i found that it would actually make surfing more difficult for me, rather than easier. I struggled to negotiate the thing in the water and also had trouble turning.. i guess the way i surf is just really "shortboardy".. i inherently pump and try to slash, rather than cruise and trim. The one redeeming quality of a longboard is that I think it's good for every surfer to try all types of boards and fin setups. Doing so helps you get a more multidimensional feel for wave-riding. It's also cool to experience what it must have been like for the old-skoolers back in the 50s and 60s. I like to surf leashless on occasion for the same reason.. well.. now that i rethink it.. longboarding is cool for the simple reason that it adds variety to the sport of surfing.. I wish that the surf vids had more clips of Tudor and Colin Montgomery and those cats hanging 10 and performing incredibly technical and deeply studied maneuvers. I'm all for that actually. For me, though, riding a longboard doesn't offer the same medium for expressing myself on a wave as a shortboard does. I can't achieve the same aesthetically-pleasing (to me) body movements and fluidity. umm.. yeah.. that was a rant.. back to work now.. bottom line.. longboarding is cool.. though it sucks to lug one around the 3rd world..

slluuuurrff.. thank god for it!

e

go get slurf if you're not slaving away

Posted by: e at February 5, 2003 01:13 PM

just had a fun little session at kelly's smaller than 2 days ago but still a few fun hollow rights..another beutiful day down there..hopefull the swell comes up a bit and it stays offshore and ill be taking another extended lunch..

just to add to the rant about longboarding, i ride a shortboard and alwayse have, sometimes ill longboard on a nice flat summer day and have alot of fun, but i loove that old style..noseriding and cross stepping i think is the coolest looking shit, and seems like it would take years to get down..id rather watch that stuff than some guy pulling (ugly) airs (smooth airs are another story ala. joel parkinson, slater ect) joel tudor is kind of a king..to me style is what its all about and not too many people really think about that nowadays..as far as taking one to CR i wouldnt:) but i was there last year at this time and kind of wish i had one at playa grande cause it was perfect, but about knee high, actually when i got a good little section i was happy i had my short board, no leash, trunks, clear water, it was like a wave pool or something..aaaaa..im jealous..ok ENOUGH!

-Bgl

Posted by: bagel at February 5, 2003 02:48 PM

well said words about style bagel.. it's all about the steeez!

i also want to add, in response to my last ranty post.. that i love all you longboarders! Yup! I feel bad for harshing on the loggers out there. I love the surly old carps on 10 foot logs, the beginner ladies on Doyles, the styly longboard rippers at Lindy, the longboard chargers at the points (Odd Todd and helmet guy). Longboarders are generally looking to just kick back and surf, not SHRED IN YOUR FACE GET OFF MY WAVE SHRED BARREL SHRED MY WAVE ARGHHG CHARGE ARGGHH!! nah.. It's all about having fun and riding waves.. it doesn't really matter how ya do it!

eeee

Posted by: e at February 5, 2003 03:17 PM

totally, i didnt really think you were harshing on any loggers, i know what your saying i love all my longboarding brothers and sisters although sometimes i cry when they paddle into waves 5 minutes before me ;) kidding, but what about those guys that ride longboards like there shortboards? i mean why not just have a shortboard? i say if you have a longboard learn how to do drop knee cutbacks and ride the nose..not airs and floaters..ok now im ranting...just throwing my oppinion out there into cyberspace...but your right e, however you do it its all good...one time i saw Ben Aipa out at this point break in southern cal and this guy was soo big and just going vertical off the top with his longboard...i was amazed so never mind all that stuff i said...happy surfing tomorrow!

Posted by: bagel at February 5, 2003 06:16 PM

First off.. Bagel.. Insane art man! I love it so much! I'm an artist as well and ALWAYS enjoy looking at others' art, especially surfers. I hope to catch your next show. E, "SHRED IN YOUR FACE GET OFF MY WAVE SHRED BARREL SHRED MY WAVE ARGHHG CHARGE ARGGHH!!" haha.. you hit the nail on the head. It's important to kick back, and enjoy sometimes ;)

Posted by: Ian at February 5, 2003 08:59 PM

thanks for all the info (allegorical and otherwise!) on costa rica. ok, so i do have a strong attachment to my longboard - we've just had so many incredible waves together all over the west coast (sano + tresles last month, don't get me started on the chest high, top-to-bottom, peeling, stalling, getting covered a little by the lip, spending not nearly enough time way up on the nose while the tail is buried deep in the back of the roiling wave...) but over the summer, i became fixated on getting a short board (shorter, anyway) for the big, winter steepies. so now i am in love with this single-fin retro egg. it looks like a mini perf longboard and, my god, if it doesn't carve like a frickin dream. just a completely different feel. but i'm probably not telling you guys anything. come to think of it, it's like being in the mood to mountain bike or road bike (tho i've come to enjoy ditching both in favor of my cyclo-cross bike). maybe this 6'8" egg will become my favorite all-arounder-much to the chagrin of my log-riding buddies (i'm getting my fair share of good-natured grief, then - at a particularly peaky rio del mar a-frame - "can i try that thing?")
on a totally different note: i gave this site url to one of my best friends who's at the mayo clinic right now in minnesota recovering from a kidney transplant. the wave pix and the reports will get him back to sf faster, i hope. even when he was on dialysis for 2 years we'd go surfing and he'd totally rip! when the wind was up, he'd windsurf under the ggb, tearing up and getting air off the tanker wakes. when he got too sick to surf, he bought a wave kayak (nicknamed the slipper) and took to the pool to practice rolls, then to the beach. then he found out the hard way how much surfers (crabby old long board crustycoots) don't like kayakers on *their* waves. if those weirdos only knew who they were riding the wave with...
whoa, did i ramble!
g'nite and peaceful dreams.

Posted by: betho at February 5, 2003 10:13 PM

Ben aipa is nothing but a fat pig and should of been put in prison years ago for assult with a deadly weapon among other crimes !what was in those cars he was bringing from the islands and what went back in those same cars. GODS timing is far more perfect than anything man could come up with, so we that are not fans of fat ass will wait please in the future cover thate disgusting stomach it is not somthing anyone cares to see,OH GOD has already been at work see I said he was perfect but not finished by any means

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