E's Surf Report: damn good... plate glass..

wow!! if it had been a little bigger... i'd go so far as to say this morning offered some of my favorite surfing conditions out at OB. 5ft 12sec at the SF buoy.. chunky windswell basically.. The ocean surface at 6:20 am was absolute plate glass. Mesmerizingly placid.. The texture of the peeling sections looked like the smooth, delicate skin on the small of a women's back... right as her lower-back meets the top of her tush.. that silky, succulent, mouth-watering area.. right were the little back dimples are.. umm.. wait.. what was i talking about? um.. yeah.. the waves.. ha! so.. waves about head-high.. fun racy little sections.. a few barrels on offer if your barrel-sniffing was acute.. the windswell-nature of the swell hooking it with wave after wave after wave.. i seriously probably caught over 30 waves during my two hour session.. I managed to stuff myself into two little barrels.. both on my backside (lefts).. One barrel particularly memorable.. I scratched and powered and freaked myself into the wave.. then watched as the bottom sucked out.. it was pretty thick and sizeable and i thought for sure i was going over the falls.. i couldn't really see that good either because the offshores were blowing spray in my face.. but.. i grabbed my rail.. leaned back and into the wall.. and somehow tracked my way down the face and to the bottom.. then enjoyed the vision of visions... the moment where all other sensations or thoughts or emotions evaporate from consciousness.. the moment when the barrel throws over your head and engulfes you in its violent radiance.. the quiet roar.. the laughably potent outlay of energy.. I enjoyed a few seconds, maybe even just one second.. and then exited onto the shoulder..

our man christian was out there shredding.. i witnessed a bunch of styly rides by him.. one left in particular where he took off.. bottom turned.. nice full snap off the top.. then instead of coming down to the bottom again he held up high for a little floater/lip-dance before the wave ended.. That guy is just super quick and agile on his board.. a pleasure to watch..

Kaiser took off on this sucking/obnoxious/beastial wave early in the sesh and almost held on for what could have been a gaping close-out barrel.. but.. crunch..

for anyone contemplating OB right now.. the winds were definitely on the up-and-up as i got out of the water.. looks like they're blowing onshore out of the WSW at 5knots right now.. probably still fun for a few more hours.. but not the glass anymore..

it's surfable at around 6:12 now.. soo.. you can get on that shit early..

word..

snapper rocks

Neco Padaratz
neco