E's Surf Report: fun waves..

Hey everybody! First off.. thanks a bunch for your support in regards to my run-in with the law yesterday. It's disheartening to feel that my/our quality of life is being directly affected by the tragic, misguided, maverick decisions made by our "elected" officials. it's really sad..

but.. on a lighter note.. i actually found waves this morning that succeeded in somewhat placating my wounded spirit. Only four people out. Thick, head-high set waves every 10 minutes or so. Little, squirty tweener' waves to occupy the rests between sets. Beautiful, crisp, sunny morning. I took off on one set-wave... pig-dogging and backhand pumping like mad to stay in front of the section.. then enjoyed a brief glimpse of the crystalline/translucent lip cascade over my head.. micro-barrelage... then more backhand pumps.. bottom turn.. pivot my upper body up the face of the wave.. rotate with all my strenth and *bash* off-the-top.. come back to the bottom.. pig-dog again as the inside barrel section approaches.. scream scream scream as i get jettisoned through the speedy part (no barrel).. then kick-out.. FUUCKK yyeeaaeaahhh!! that felt great.. long paddle back out.. the best surfer out paddles by and says, "You were completely slotted on that one!" I was like, "Thanks brotha!!" That set up good vibes for the rest of the sesh and i hooted him a few times as he got shacked or exploded off the lip. Later on a huge set cruises in (maybe foreshadowing the swell that's supposed to hit tonight?) .. I'm second in line.. yellow-board dude takes the first macker.. then it's all me.. and you know that feeling when there are people behind you in the lineup.. a huge wave is approaching.. and you have to go?? well.. that's the feeling i got.. but... i finally feel comfy enough on my backhand that i'll pretty much take off on anything.. so i scratch and scratch and the wave is just sucking and grimacing.. but i know it's going to be sick if i can get in.. yes.. i get over the ledge.. bounce and pig-dog my way down the face.. stear and hold-on through the foam-ball.. make it to the face.. and just kinda cruise and speed along.. i probably could have cranked off the top or done some sort of maneuvering but instead i just kinda trimmed along, just enjoying the power and perfection of this large set-wave that i made it into.. rode it almost to the beach.. soo friggin stoked..

but.. to put things in perspective.. there were a lot of lulls out there.. and the surface a bit sloppy/junky.. also this seal scared the living shit out of me.. i had just paddled out and sat-up on my board in the lineup.. i noticed a slight icyness to the vibe.. nothing major.. but i was still playing it mellow and not paddling right to the peak.. anyway.. i hear this HUGE, violent splash RIGHT behind me.. i was like, "what the fuck!!".. turned around and just saw a swirling of white-water behind me.. FUuUuckK.. this guy paddling back out was smiling and laughing.. he said a huge seal totally lept out of the water right behind me.. man.. i was shaking!!

anyhoo.. off to POInt arena with Robme tonight.. hopefully we'll score this swell coming in! good luck out there headies!!

big wipe

craziness