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Robme and thought we'd score on the north side of town as the sun rose over Robin Williams' mauve palace. sea-surface and wind (w 5mph) not too bad.. but.. the swell dissapated over night. Flatness where we hoped for waves. Horizontality where we hoped for undulating cosign patterns.. Mind straining to see the inviting glassy peelers i had dreamt of.. Wizardly attempting to coax and manifest blips of swell from the deep... but.. to no avail.. shit was flat.. and.. sorrowfully.. i'm no wizard.. though.. how sweet would that be! Crafting bizarre elixers that ellicit prophetic dreamscapes.. Chanting arcane linguistic rhymes that enduce flight, or rain, or romance.. growing a styly long beard and workin' the pointy hat. yeah.. that would be sweet.
On to OB.. junky.. blown.. dribbling.. smaller and messier (sp?) than yesterday.. not really surfable.. nobody out.. i didn't check Pacifica.. maybe rockaway?? probably too small for the jetty.. there is swell in the water though.. and the wind isn't utterly penalizing.. soo.. probably slurf somewhere..
Marcus sent me this pick of Peru.. he just got back yesterday and said it was... ON FIRE!... lucky dog..
Quite on here today! Winds suck, water is cold!
Anyone been to north island of New Zealand? Also, looking for any info. on Fiji experiences that any of you may have. Considering a trip in the fall and need the low-down on the surf. Critical? What boards to take? Where to stay? Etc.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 4, 2003 12:32 PMchristian.. you're a dogg for hittin' up peru as soon as the south swells start up.. lucky!!
have fun!
kaiser.. dude.. i still haven't heard about your hawaii trip.. you might have written something but i'm stonily forgetting?? did you score Kaisers?
my friend Cloude went to NZ for 3 months and scored waves all over the place, on both islands.. check out 5th symphony document for some good NZ footage.. all the maz quinn stuff is in NZ.. Fiji i only know of tavarua and Nomatu.. both sick and totally critical.. with vibrant flower-coral reefs.. dude.. you heads are soo lucky to go on surf trips.. i'm farking JONESING ovah hear.. but most likely won't get another trip for.. ??.. fark.. years.. :( i'm thinking of taking an unpaid leave next summer (2004) and hitting indo again for 3 months.. that's EXACTLY what i need.
e
Posted by: e at April 4, 2003 12:53 PMHawaii Trip Wrap Up:
Kasiers - 3 sessions
Waikiki - 1 log session (rental board)
Halewia - 1 Super fun session
Ehukai Beach - 1 intimidating session
(this is 2 breaks, 300 yards to the north of Pipe)
Good South came in and I just missed it by a day with uber clean conditions. This swell that is hitting us now came in but it was onshore wind flow from the south so it killed town for the good part of the swell. The North Shore was seeing some big action. The first few days, the NS was big but had morning sickness with windy conditions out at sea. Then when the swell came down it cleaned up and the south shore got the morning sickness. However, it was the biggest I have ever seen Waikiki!
Kaisers was pretty good on the first 2 days. Didn't surf long sessions but damn they were fun. It is amazing to see how much better you can actually surf on reef breaks that just go on and on! I scored 2 spots that I had never surfed before: Halewia and near Pipe. Both were totally intimidating just because of the "vibe" there but I settled in and got some good waves. Both were head high or a little bigger. Halewia is more of a mushy wave but still heavy to push you pretty hard. Got snagged by the ever friendly "sneaker" sets there. Seems like every time I surf the north shore, I get killed by at least one mountainous wave that came straight from Alaska with my name on it! Ehukai Beach totally freaked me out. Sitting in the lineup, you see Pipe, Backdoor Gas Chambers and all the ones in between. Dudes are killing it and I am sitting there on the shoulder going, "I don't deserve to be sitting here!" I just knew I would kook out on someone and get chucked. First wave I paddled for, I just took off down this thing as it sucked out for what seemed like forever but was like 2 seconds. Sorta like a big OB sucker on the outside but being like 100 yards from the beach. Waves stood up quick, backed off and gave me a huge shoulder to just bust a turn off the top with ease. Came back down from the lip, went down the line a bit and got engulfed by the section as I notice that I stayed way too long on the face and I am about to land in a foot of water from about 6 feet above it. Board breakage time! Didn't happen though.
Anyway, scored some decent waves, got my pigdog in effect on one wave. E, you would have been proud! All in all, not a ton of surfing like I usually get in but solid time. I didn't snap any pics this go around but I got a few rolls of 8mm film footage that I need to get developed!
There it is! Sorry to bore those not interested.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 4, 2003 02:06 PMgood stories Kaiser. no one is bored to hear about a trip to hawaii. sounds awesome, just being in the lineup looking at those epic breaks.
i'm sitting here, picking my arse, probably should roll to santa cruz, the winds have switched and it could be ok... but I think I'm going to take the day off... recharge the stoke meters and wait a day so I'm jonesing a surf.
have a good weekend y'all.
Posted by: jake at April 4, 2003 03:02 PMSlurfin' Report for Tommorrow
==============================
Same as today pretty much, a little bigger... Winds from NW 1-15
If you have time head down to santa cruz.. otherwise find a "secret spot" (joking) that faces south.
Anyway wish i could say it was going to be like last weekend but as of today i dont see it...
===========================================
by the way I held off on seeing Blue Crush thinking it would be some lame barby meets ken movie with some posturing in it, which it was. But the phootage was probably some of the best surf phootage i have seen. Stoked on the overhead shots and the surfer perspective shots. Of course with my bong as my faithful assisant during the film i was getting pitted myself!!!
cool recap Kaisar!!!Love it!!!!
Posted by: Phil Young at April 4, 2003 03:50 PMPhil, think of how nice it would have been to see it in the theater with some THX Sound, your friendly bong-buddy, a bag of popcorn and an tasty-overpriced beverage.
Those barrels would have been 100ft.!
Posted by: Kaiser at April 4, 2003 03:54 PMcorrection NW 10-15
Posted by: Phil Young at April 4, 2003 03:55 PMfuck, i know!! my loss Kaiser!!!
Posted by: Phil Young at April 4, 2003 03:57 PMphil, you motivated me
Slurf report
Swell dwindling over the weekend with NW winds killing it. Sunday, especially later, winds may swing due N, and it may get junkily rideable.
Monday, high pressure moves in over Utah, swell drops off (but maintains a steep angle and short period), and we go into "Indian summer in April". Expect me to drop in on people at DP almost all week long with OB waves under head high, sunny skies, and warm conditions. Sometime Wednesday groundswell will come in, and winds will stay calm or lightly offshore (especially in the morning).
Posted by: blakestah at April 5, 2003 07:41 AMAh, the weather god has spoken!
Posted by: Kaiser at April 5, 2003 10:43 AMKaiser,
I was in NZ a couple months ago, but didn't have my board there. It looked to have some awesome surf when things are on (it wasn't really when I was there). Prime season is May thru August, but September and October are good too.
I have a copy of The World Stormrider Guide that has a couple of sections on the North Island. I also picked up a NZ guide book while I was there. It's not the best, just lists all the breaks around the islands without much detail on them. Water is warmer than here... like SoCal (59-64 degrees-ish).
-d
Posted by: dano at April 5, 2003 01:25 PMDano- Thanks for the info. I will check out the Stormrider Guide. I am headed out on April 19th for a week traveling on the north island with a couple of aussies and a bud from SF. I was hoping that the water was warmer so I can take my 3/2. Good shit there.
How was SC today? Almost made the drive but aborted in Half Moon Bay. Surf was crap up here today.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 5, 2003 04:14 PMI looked for E this morning (not very hard) before grabbing some waves. The barrels were more like jails.
I have unfortunate news. Late Tuesday, a largish 310 will come in, and we will perhaps reach double overhead on Wednesday with lightish winds. The front will pass to our north, but high pressure is mostly staying in control and pushing it away (only letting the swell in).
The unfortunate thing is I haven't paddled for anything like that in months.
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