E's Surf Report: pumpin' thumpin' and dumpin'

deeaamnn.. shit was hittin' this morning.. probably still is right now (10am).
I woke up late but still made it to VFers by 7.. The swell had obviously filled in since yesterday morning.. overhead+ waves sucking-up and CRACKing ferociously along the shallow inside sandbar. Probably about 20 or 30 heads in the water when i paddled out.. even more at the end of my session. The sea-surface was super glassy. The swell kinda raw and jumbled... but powerful!!! geezarks! Waves were barreling, waves were massively closing out.. waves looked like pipeline, waves looked like Waimea Bay shore-pound. there were fun/rampy shoulder-high 'tweener waves.. then a set would march in and just unload. I saw some incredible rides out there.. One guy took off on a overhead++ bomb.. barely held on for the drop.. then grabbed his rail and miraculously jettisoned along inside this monster/foaming/snarling beast of a barrel.. then this huge/thick/bullyish slab of wave soared over the top of him and gulped him into its bowels.. ouch. I witnessed Kaiser take off on a serious serious bomb.. the dude fuckin' BARELY made the drop on his frontside.. he just held on to that shit... then screamed down the line.. i was paddling over the top of the wave, a bit down the line.. and i tellz ya that thing was THHIIICKK.. chunkified meat. There was this other guy out who was just ruling.. (white short-board, goetee, skull-cap, blue stripes on his wetty). Cheers to that guy if you're reading this. He probably caught 25 rides during my session ( i caught about 10).. he was just real smooth and solid.. not flashy but ripping. turning hard in the critical sections of mutant/chunky waves. fun to watch.. I caught one life-affirming left where i made the drop pretty easy.. didn't really need to pig-dog.. but then the wave kept getting faster and faster, hollower and hollower.. till i was not only pig-dogging but kind-of pig-dog-extending.. pulling up hard with my outside hand.. back foot almost slipping off the board.. back knee flat against the back of board, etc.. but i was in the mouth of a mean barrel and i could feel it's throbbing juice all around. then i got pretty much spit out.. which i hadn't really felt before.. not spit out like pipe or anything.. probably more like "nudged" out.. but.. it still felt cool..

anyway.. shit is on fire.. not perfect, not mellow, not all-time.. but.. firing..

oh yeah.. marco.. thanks for the cash toward the fort-point surfer defense fund!! so funny! and the "jerry ripped" sticker.. siick!