E's Surf Report: good at VFers.. but..

hit VFWs around 8am. as you say e, smaller than yesterday, but glassy and fun shape.

and virtually nobody out. current pushing south, but not super strong by OB standards. surfed right in front of beach chalet more or less by myself.

april has been pretty kind to us thus far

Posted by: bojon at April 10, 2003 11:00 AM

hey peeps - ob sounds pretty fun the last few mornings, nice charging all. i enjoyed yesterday's gorgeous weather down in sc, sorta weird session at 3mile, and then not enough time at another break... my bro came to film me, first time trying that... pretty mediocre sessions, not ideal for videoing, but a good first try. takes a lot of commitment from a friend, to watch you surf for hours to get 15 minutes of vid. anyway, my first time on vid, I don't have tin-man style or anything, so that's good. pulled into some micro closeout tubes, made a good drop... the video was pretty fun, though also a distraction from just surfing. probably got our best shots of other people. most stoked moment of the day -- not on film -- came as a very subtle refinement to the art of my surfing... had that 'new feeling' excitement of a new turn, ripped some sort of horizontal carving top turn cuttie on my backhand, felt sweeeeet!

and I woke up at 6 this morning, but couldn't get out of bed -- i might retire from dp until I live on the coast... the hour drive first kills me. anyway, going to NJ for the weekend, good luck all, see ya next week.

Posted by: jake at April 10, 2003 11:23 AM

Today reinforced for me why I always fight the current to stay in one spot. If you drift, you rarely have good consistency throughout the session. There were good spots today, briefly, but a lot of it was too much waiting in bad spots. When I changed out of my suit, there were 3-4 EASILY visible peaks that looked SWEET.

Notably today- Kaiser got killed on the inside at one point, e made a fun backside rail-grab drop, and I pulled out instead of dropping in on e :)

Posted by: blakestah at April 10, 2003 11:31 AM

ha ha.. yeah.. thanks for lettin' me go on that one Blakestah. I was about to give you the "hoot!".. nahh.. i would've party-waved it with ya.

Bojon, glad you scored. niiice..

jake.. splice out the best wave or two from that vid.. and.. let's see that shit!!

Posted by: e at April 10, 2003 11:56 AM

I wondered why it felt like paddling in cement today. Get out of the water from VFW's and we were @ Judah. Yeah, that might have been it. It is really funny how even though you have no idea where you are when it is foggy like that, OB still has some subtlities that let you get an idea as to where you are.

Blakestah, pleasure surfing with ya today. Glad you and E were out there otherwise I most likely would have washed up on the Farallons half eaten in the fog. Damn it was foggy. Kinda cool watching it clear around 8 though.

Would have loved to have been sitting out at VFW's for another hour or so. It looked a lot better when I left than what I think we got. Still, good waves with a semi-favorable set up so no complaints here. Hopefully we get one more morning out of the swell before the low moves over and shuts it down to windswell for a few.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 10, 2003 12:18 PM

Finally a Thursday where the planets were aligned - working from home and the surf was head high and clean. Seems like every time I work from home the surf has been 2xhead and stormy, knee and rainy, or blown.

Hit VFWs just before 9am. Surfed in front of 23/24. Punchy fun headhigh waves. Second wave was a clean right, pumped a few and then a good bottom turn and a HUGE carve, pumped a bit then pulled into a nice coverup. Felt good. Also got a few airdrops, skidding with one leg on the board or grabbing rail and then the lip demonstrated power on my head.

There was a kneeboarder pulling into some late drops. Grabbed rail and flew down the face. Also saw the guy with the yellow funboard and blue single fin catch some good rides - is he a niceness peep?

Posted by: caveman at April 10, 2003 12:30 PM

Looks like the wind is coming in pretty good from the S/SW right now. High tide tomorrow morning at 5:15 or so. Winds expected from the W/SW tomorrow a.m.

Could be a Lindy day manana! Could still be an OB day as well.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 10, 2003 02:28 PM

Man, reading the Blakestah's post from yesterday makes me admire you OB chargers when it is going off... but I guess 20 minutes of paddling to get out beats the crap out of a Stairmaster workout.

Dolphins, otters, seals, fish and birds today. It was like Discovery Animal Planet.

Swell was down from yesterday (maybe shoulder+ on the sets), but clean and buffed out. Sooo oily glassy and semi-foggy that judging the waves got a bit tricky at times before the fog cleared. Slightly off shore early with onshores picking up as I got out (9ish).

DPed it with one of the locals out and traded waves on a juicey walled-up peak. Got some super fast down the line pumpers that got funky on the inside due to rip and backwash. You'd be in a wave and it would jack up by a half almost pitching you out if you weren't careful. Kooked several drops today which I haven't done in a while. Seems like for every couple steps forward, you gotta take some back every now and then. One tasty left just clocked me as the lip pitched over just as I was standing up. Got Maytagged for several minutes for that mistake. Time to work on acquiring the pigdog stance to avoid such decapitations in the future.

Good, fun surf and fun surfing, but not good surfing on my part.

-d

Posted by: dano at April 10, 2003 02:36 PM

VF'ers was holding through. i was out from 1130 ti 1: 30.......it was tossing in the shallows.

i jumped on a steep and then quick, piper shoulder high one the minute i got outside and knew it was going to be fun. i got a fins free take off later and a bunch of others but it was still kinda surfable at 215 when i drove by....may go out again....

Posted by: tom at April 10, 2003 03:54 PM

Cron had some fun, junky waves this afternoon/evening. It was rideable, and that's all it really needs out there to get you in the water. take advantage. Anyway, turned out to be fun. Winds weren't strong at all, but messy ocean from the day. The sets overpowered the chop to a certain extent, and gave some lines to the sand. mostly rights. bowly, somewhat weird faces, but pockets would pop up in front of ya for a nicecuttie or a speed divit for the next section. It was an -on your toes- session. Fun waves to be had - fosho. Not too many people out, everyone getting decent rides - fun kronie. Yeehaw.

Posted by: eightwest at April 10, 2003 09:02 PM

been reading the blips and couldn't help but comment. surfing down in san d is pretty sweet. dawn patrol yields mellow lineups at hospitals and pb. blacks is about as close as we get to ob. i can generally find some good waves to hang in with a positive crew, and my job is flex so i don't have to share the crowds. but the wave lacks that thumping invigorating energy of norcal swell, the cold water coursing through the bones, really teaching what it means to be alive.

and nobody can believe we surf up north! people have such a tough time with the cold water, then i tell them about the grey suits in the shark pit, up north in humboldt (that guy who had his 6'2 chomped into), man they get all squirmy. good to hear your vibes, keeps me hummin about a few cherry waves i had not too long ago in ob.

late,
dave

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