E's Surf Report: still junky..

whattup y'all.. sorry about absence of a report yesterday. I felt pretty ill upon wakeup and called in sick. I think it was just a case of being run-down after staying up until 1 most nights and getting up at 6. anyway.. looks like OB is still junky, though i didn't check it. The brutal, relentless onshores we've experienced over the last few days abated a bit, but i guess there is still a sligh NW wind flow. The SF buoy is still lingering at 8ft 8sec though it looks like some south swell is headed our way for the weekend. It might be a good time to visit your grandma in Encinitas or your hippy cousin in Davenport. "goodmorning" posted last night about the south side of Oahu going off. Check it...
"6-8 ft. - head high + to 3 ft. overhead with occasional 10 ft. and good conditions.

Current SSW Swell is BIG and building. Watch out for some macking sets that are closing out the channels. Choked lineups at the standout spots."

sooo... if you're surfing Ala Moana or Kaisers or Rockpiles right now.. you be psyched.. Even "the wall" along Diamond Head is probably going off.. and Sandy Beach! that place is nutty. I'm thinking of warm/turquoise water, throaty/funnelling reef-break walls. 72 degree water. palm trees gently wafting in the breeze. Sky-piercing, vertical, lusciously green mountains erupting out of the earth. Barrels thundering and beckoning. Ahhh.. hawaii.. Truly a wonderous place. Tracing its arc of islands across the tectonic plate.. a deep hot spot of volcanic activity spitting up lava and mana as the world turns above. Encompassed entirely by the mighty pacific. Open to swells on all sides.. Gruesome, tireless North and West swells in the fall and winter lighting up the dry/western spots like Makaha, Banyons, Honolua, Hanalei.. stirring up north shore craziness.. dribbling over and around to the jungly, windward eastside mysto spots. The islands south shores lie dormant most of the fall and winter.. but.. come spring and summer, the south swells start parading up through the south pacific. Spawned by storms and wind raging across the roaring 40s and up past the bottom of New Zealand.. then waves propagate thousands of miles, across the whole ocean.. Penquins on the south island of NZ bob past the same wave that washes a coconut onto the beach in the Pitcairns, past the cook island and samoa. radiating outward in concentric circles like a macro version of ripples created in a pond when a rock strikes the surface. The same waves blow past the whole of the south pacific... frech polynesia, Tokelau, Tuvalu, Tonga, Fiji, Soloman Islands, Samoa, Kiribati, mysto reef-passes peeling and barreling with nare a wave-rider for miles and miles.. then the waves voyage further north and east.. they mature and coalesce into more refined, definitive groundswell lines as they travel greater and greater distances. Finally they spot the luscious green oasis of the hawaiin islands.. they laugh and smile as their amassed energy, meandering 2000 miles from their point of origin south of Bells Beach.. gropes and begins to feel the severe shelfing of the steep island of Oahu.. Without much time to slow down.. they finally gulp and rise up in response to the sudden reef at "Bowls".. Luckily "goodmorning" is there to welcome them.. and the wave engulfs goodmorning in it's womb.. caressing and soothing as he careens through the liquid chamber.. Finally the wave exhausts itself on the inside section and goodmorning paddles out to ride and cavort with some of the waves brothers and sisters.. spawned from the friction between wind and water surface deep down in the antartic south pacific.. But some of that south swell juice doens't die a spiritual, barrelling death in the garden isles.. some of it continues its fluid undulation across the sea... encountering absolutely no land for another few thousand miles.. then some of the waves spot santa cruz and bless that land with thick, peeling perfection.. other sections of the family of propagated arcing energy spot the windmills of OB and decide to get all jumbly and disorganized, after 5000 miles of groomed perfection.. they decide to dismantle into chaotic displeasure and fizz and sputtle into hacked, disorderly mayhem on the shores of our golden ville.. oh well.. fall's coming soon...

Ummm... yeah..
indo

I surfed this wave.. though it was about 1/3 this size. still barrelly though
indo

Burning Man..