E's Surf Report: More Wind!!! Yaayy!!!

We shall see about the marin/sonoma south facing spots. I don't know if eightwest has a theory or not. But for the last couple souths that were in the 2.5 feet range, they sure didn't show at Doran...I didn't check Bolinas. Ended up getting several good sessions at Cron.

I've often wondered if when there are strong N/NW winds (sf gate out to the farallons) that it really dampens the south swell just before reaching the the north counties spots. Blakestah - is that theory possible? Anyway, pray for us northbays peeps...we'll take anything we can get. cheers

Posted by: Jack at June 20, 2003 10:37 AM

No. Not much attenuation that locally.

But, headwinds do dampen swell. And, SC south facing spots are roughly twice the size of Marin south facing spots, due mainly to local oceanography. Monterey Bay is deep relatively close to shore, so the shallows have less chance to grind the swell down. In Marin there is a more gradual shelf for southerly swells. This is especially true further up at places like Drakes. A hard NW wind is perverse up there.

Posted by: blakestah at June 20, 2003 10:43 AM

how big would you say the south shore wave with the sailboat is? in the face?

the reports we have read all say 10 foot sets so from the looks of it i'd call it double overhead.
can't really see where the flats are so I dunno if he is at the bottom.

is "double overhead" 10ft faces or 12 foot faces? and no. i don't believe it matters how tall you are. thats the one concrete standard that is used as a constant (avg. surfer used for calculation is say 5 ft. 8.)

I know, i know....now you will say double overhead is 10 foot 16 inches (11 ft 4 inch)

when will it end.....(please no hawiian style estimates.....i'm surfing ca.

Posted by: tom at June 20, 2003 10:57 AM

Tom, I think you got it right on, 11ft 4 inches in that picture. You get a Point.

E, point for you for scoring that final wave at the Jetty, sounds fun! way to get wet.

i'm in nj right now, and shiiiiiit, but... we've got a weekend of swell and offshores in front of us! point east coast.

later guys! good luck this weekend.

Posted by: jake at June 20, 2003 11:04 AM

jake.. that would be sick to score an east-coast jam! go for it! i'll be NYC next week but probably won't be looking for waves.. i was thinking you might be down with a kamikazee tomorrow.. but.. alas.. you be east coastin'.. enjoy..

blakestah.. thanks for the info homie.. always appreciated.

tom.. if in hawaii i'd say that wave is about 3 feet.. maybe 4.. if in cali i'd say about 6 or 7 feet on the face.. if on the east coast you might say 10 or 11 feet.. so funny.. i've travelled with Aussies who absolutely refuse to ever call a wave anything more than 4 feet.. Huge, roping double-overhead death-squads would be marching in and these boys would be saying.. "i reckon it's a healthy 4 foot mate."

Posted by: e at June 20, 2003 11:21 AM

Tom, I would have to side with E on that wave. Hawaiian style would go about 3 feet but I would call it 6-7 on the face, possible 8 footer. That looks like Bowls given that the sailboat is headed out with sail down. Must be headed out of Ala Wai.

I have never understood why Hawaiians measure from the back of the wave. Like how big is the face of a 1 ft. hawaiian wave? It could be 2-6 foot face. I don't get it!

E, where did you snag those? Marco, how did the board ride/float/paddle, etc?

Posted by: Kaiser at June 20, 2003 11:30 AM

oh man, getting the full court press from my bros up in OR to drive up for a weekend surf....may be pulling the all night recon drive tonight...than again maybe not, tired today and 10 hours is a long solo drive....altho a couple new cds may help ease the pain....6 messages last night as i left the gym "looks like boyscout camp will be a'ight this weekend, call in sick, start driving..."
if only my job didn't expect us to be online when we're sick....dammit....wonder if it's windy up there, too....

Posted by: j at June 20, 2003 11:32 AM

Mid OB: Well, it'd be beautiful except for the wind. Hacked up small to medium mush and closeout on the inside, large mush rollers sneaking around the outside. Very bumpy looking. Water jostling about in all different directions. BUT there are two surfers out and picking off peaks! This one guy caught a longish ride like he was threading his way through an obstacle course. Cool!

e, marco - I drove around and must've hit the Jetty right after you guys left. Same story but lower tide and even shallower water. Shoutout to my neighbor for letting me kook around on his M10. :)

hey j, where are your OR bros at? I've got pals up there, tossed around the idea of driving, but doing a 550 mile turnaround drive solo is an energy sapper.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 20, 2003 11:55 AM

More upwellings. Water is down to 48F. Brrrr.

Posted by: blakestah at June 20, 2003 11:57 AM

Went swimming this morning. Kickboard was the closest I got surfing!

Ahh... wave heights. I think I read on Surfline somewhere that they use 5 feet for "head high" with the assumption that a surfer never stands straight up on their board. Oh, and on some of the coverage of Teahupoo last year they were waiting for the surf to get to "6 feet" before running the contest. I just assumed that they were waiting for the swell to get to 6 feet at some decent, long period... but I don't know. I guess I'd just stick to my personal scale that goes: flat, surfable, fun, really good, big, survival surfing, and I'm not going out.

Oh, I think some folks were talking about Sunny Garcia the other day. He comes across as kind of a jerk on the "Sunny Dayz" DVD, which is probably the worst surf video I have ever purchased. Got "Arc" the other day which is ok... but worth it since Taylor Knox is just precision personified when surfing. Now if he could just use a little more rail in his cutbacks...

-d

Posted by: dano at June 20, 2003 12:05 PM

Series of pics from Bowls and around yesterday:

Thick!

Shacked!

I call it double overhead+

DAMN!!!!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 20, 2003 12:07 PM

since there's not much surf here to speak of...anybody check out that cinematic orchestra show the other night? they as epic as rumored? i'd finally come to peace w/ skipping that show & then there was all this buzz here about it. argh! hope whoever went had fun.

also: anyone been to rio nexpa? is there a good / bad time of year to go? pondering 10 days or so in august...looks like goofy paradise...

paul b

Posted by: paul b at June 20, 2003 12:08 PM

DAMN, my HTML skills are getting TERRIBLE!

Series of pics from Bowls and around yesterday:

Thick!

Shacked!

I call it double overhead+

DAMN!!!!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 20, 2003 12:12 PM

Kaiser... nice work on the pics. Sickness! I think that rates my "I'm not going out there" scale.

-d

Posted by: dano at June 20, 2003 12:20 PM

video of nexpa.......

http://www.surf-mexico-rio-nexpa.com/movie/jaywave.html

mainland mex is usually overhead on up most of the time from may to oct.

what i have heard about nexpa and michoacan is that the swell window is 180 degrees (so all year) but being a rivermouth at times is can connect for a tuby 200 yards and other times it is a handful of peaks.

my buddy just returned with many stories of barrels and he is the type that actually does get them (barrels that is)

Posted by: tom at June 20, 2003 12:40 PM

What time were you out at the jetty, s.s.? I kooked out there from around 10 - 11am this morning. Caught a couple nice shoulder-high waves and a lot more dribblers. Wind-wise, the jetty is definitely the call today. There were some occasional nicely-groomed waves coming through.

Posted by: mwsf at June 20, 2003 12:46 PM

paul b - i went to the cinematic orchestra show. i was expecting some truly amazing show but thought it was a letdown. the mixer had the levels jacked up - maybe it was due to where i was standing - but the dj was overpowering everybody. which sucked cuz there were some cool jams during the songs (dj w/ drums, dj w/ piano) but you couldn't hear anyone else over the dj. and the singer got a bit boring with the same "evolution" lyrics in two songs. saw both st. germaine and zero 7 live and both were VERY impressive. maybe it was an off night for CO? or for me?!?

Posted by: caveman at June 20, 2003 12:54 PM

Just spoke to buddy in HI, said it has been sick, but the crowds have been murder. He said the biggest sets out at Three's were 13 foot faces. He is 6 foot 4, so it counts for double overhead...

Posted by: Todd at June 20, 2003 01:03 PM

funny that all those pictures that Kaiser posted are of goofy-footers.. where are all the reggies?

rio nexpa

Posted by: e at June 20, 2003 01:12 PM

Howzit!
The south shore of Oahu was 6 to 8 ft. yesterday,
with 10 foot sets, which using the NWS wave face scale...puts a 20 foot face on those waves!
My friends on Maui said the swell on reached 2 to 4 ft.,
due to island blockage (Lanai).
The picture of Ala moana is double overhead,
6 foot Hawaiian style.
Later.

Posted by: njs at June 20, 2003 01:32 PM

e,

the regular footed surfers are most likely around the corner at Kaisers (the other side of the reef), which is front side for them.

Posted by: Todd at June 20, 2003 01:39 PM

e -

was at the Jetty too this morning (green/only longboard). sweet to hear your report of that session since I was there.

glad I went down there too.

saw your last wave. when I saw it was your last, was thinkin, that's gotta feel good.

thanks for the reports!!

Posted by: george at June 20, 2003 01:53 PM

e -

was at the Jetty too this morning (green/only longboard). sweet to hear your report of that session since I was there.

glad I went down there too.

saw your last wave. when I saw it was your last, was thinkin, that's gotta feel good.

thanks for the reports!!

Posted by: george at June 20, 2003 01:53 PM

sharkbait - they live in hillsboro (outside of portland on the 26 headed towards the beach), will be surfing the pacific city area this weekend (cape kiwanda and boy scout camp). had i known you had friends up there i would have contacted you to be the co-pilot, i just made plans for a yosemite trip. doh! maybe yosemite will fall thru and we'll drive on up.

Posted by: j at June 20, 2003 02:31 PM

Good to see ya for a bit this am, e. Small waves, but beats wading in the velvet sea...

Every new board is SUCH a learning experience, and its incredible how minor tweaks can make a huge difference. My latest 6'7", for instance, is SO much easier than my last 6'6" to get into the waves for the simple fact that it has a wider (sorry Kaiser, I mean broader!) nose.

I recall a Surfer's Journal article a few issues back explaining "Hawaiian size" for those archivists out there, but of course I've spaced the explanation. My memory rips.

Posted by: Marco Esquandoles at June 20, 2003 02:31 PM

E, that picture with the bomb out the back is a reggie! That is a sick picture!

From the looks of it, I would presume that is 3's or 4's but not sure. I wonder what Toilet Bowl was looking like? Kewalos? NJS, you got any pics?

Posted by: Kaiser at June 20, 2003 02:34 PM

Despite the wind, headed out to cron this morning for a surf. It was actually kinda clean, relatively speaking, and there were dribblers coming in. Every now and then an outsider would make it's way through, and turn into a lumpy, but do-able, crony shape wave. Some good ones snuck in there too though.. some racey faces if you got on them right. I had fun, and it seemed like everyone else out there was having fun too. waves for all...niceness.
Glad to hear you got in at the jetty E, sounds like your last wave was a good memo for your work day. stoked.
and Thanks for the mendo info. We camped at manchester, but our tents almost blew back to bodega bay. The winds were sooooo gnarly. face stinging, no joke. Not a chance for surfing, anywhere we looked anyway. P.A. didn't have enough swell, a bit sheltered however... the ranger at the campsite told me a couple whities were spotted out in front last week, yikes....creepy. Fun trip though, had some killer pancakes in gualala on the way home. checked the mysto reef too, hoping for rideable somethings.. but no...
And speaking of the south hitting us....doran could possibly be crackin, and maybe even sick if it's right on...don't know exactly what it needs though, besides an incoming/high tide, and fairly strong energy.. I'll be out that way tomorrow, will post a niceness report, when i get back. (today's page). maybe bolinas...? drakes? muir?
anyway, Good luck to the waveriders, maybe some SICK stories on monday...
and how is that one photo of ala'moana? ...what?

Posted by: eightwest at June 20, 2003 02:52 PM

no way george! i saw you out there.. thanks for the stoke on my wave!! it wasn't all that great or anything as far as killah waves go.. but, yeah.. it felt great to come in on that one..

Kaiser.. i thought that one sick turquoise-water pic might be a reggie.. that pic is resickulous! it's like the swell is going, "Brahhaaahaaa!!!" just chugging and going crazy along the reef.. Deeeaaammnn!!

8west - bumsville that you didn't score up north.. hopefully we'll get some tomorrow and/or sunday.. hmmm...

Posted by: e at June 20, 2003 03:02 PM

i'm planning on a friday post-work puff-n-skate at around 6:30 if anybody's interested.. there is a pretty nifty, wind-protected, smooth hill near my house.

Posted by: e at June 20, 2003 03:06 PM

e, mwsf & ss,

looks like everyone hit the jetty today I was there from 10 - 12:30. Same story, but the winds really came up at the end and started hacking even what little was coming through.

ss was that you packing up the silver car when you were heading home? Pulled up right at about 10.

d loose

Posted by: d loose at June 20, 2003 03:21 PM

BACK ONLINE!!!

Holy crap...my computer crapped out 3 days ago and I have spent the last 36 hours trying to figure out how to get the bastard back up and running. When you run your home business off one computer...it can be a very scary thing to have that mofo go south on you!!! The other scary thing is that I feel like I have been completely out of touch with the rest of the world...and especially missed reading your report e. And reading the daily post. Oh my gawddd ,I have become completely dependent on my computer. Everyone, try shutting your computer off for 3 days and see what happens!

Now must go surf. eightwest, cron fun this am...see you tomorrow am with the rest of the kiddies off of school....must get there early. Oh your on a trip...enjoy.

Sorry for the email vomit...later peeps.

Posted by: jdz at June 20, 2003 04:01 PM

Mid OB: still sunny with a fog bank sitting outside, getting muscled southwards. It's so windy I'm waiting for the power to go out!

d loose- yeah, if you saw the silver honda w/roof rack that was me. By far that was the best move of my whole session - getting changed w/out flashing the entire highway!

Good luck hunting waves!

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at June 20, 2003 04:33 PM

who wants to carpool northwards tomorrow morning for some surf? thinking cron but don't care as long as there are some waves to be had.

Posted by: caveman at June 20, 2003 05:17 PM

vegas baby VEGAS!!!

caveman... sounds schweet my man but mine arse is headed south.. hopefully on the super-early tip..

good luck to ya..

Posted by: e at June 20, 2003 05:30 PM

Yep, 4- 6' Hawaiian style. I received a call from a friend back home saying that all of the outside reefs at Waikiki were popping. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't homesick right now. It is hard to hear of such perfection and watch such slop here. It is nice, though, to see all the pics here at E's. I am glad to start a little dreaming fracas....

I am going to the Delaware coast late July to visit the better half's family- any surf prognosis? This is virgin territory for this island transplant.

PS: the ripped car has been recovered in Hayward- the worse for wear but drivable and it looks like the mini-ramp has found a home. Maybe soon we'll have some surf!

Posted by: goodmorning at June 20, 2003 05:38 PM

allrighty kids...cron's me home turf. hope to see all takers in the am. can be fun given the right combos...just don't tell anyone...hehehe

Posted by: jdz at June 20, 2003 05:45 PM

e, that pic of Rio Nexpa is muy Insano. Mmmmh, to have a left like that around NorCal.

Got some waves tonight. Getting up early tomorrow for a quick AM session before the crowds.

-d

Posted by: dano at June 20, 2003 09:58 PM

goodmorning - Delaware coast in July is likely a no-go for surf. It gets awful flat there in July - no hurricane potential yet, and winds from spring are dead dead dead. The best you could hope for in a week would be a single day of chest high surf if there are some thunderstorms moving through.

Posted by: blakestah at June 21, 2003 08:00 AM

No first hand report for doran today...sorry guys.
Heard through the grapevine it wasn't doin' it so much...so i skipped out.
c-ya.

Posted by: eightwest at June 21, 2003 03:02 PM

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