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lots of driving, no surfing..

Things are starting to get painful for bay-area surfers. The summer doldrums are here, in full force. With the exception of the illustrious Cron in the AM??, bay-area beaches have been bombarded with and brutalized by constant, spirit-draining onshore wind... for weeks!! OB and Pollutica throwing up hacked, regurgitated nasties this morning. I stood at Sloat for a few minutes, watching as one wave out of ten offered up an immaculate, high-performance section.. the other nine out of ten crumbling or closing or just disintigrating into nothingness.. Maybe if you have the right mindset and gumption you could mastermind a session at OB.. but.. the duckdive to ride ratio will be tilted heavily to the side of duckdives. Down at the P. Jetty things looked more promising.. the jetty itself blocking the pesky NW wind from blowing things out.. too bad the biggest waves were about 9 inches tall.. seriously. Maybe the tide was just too high when i checked it at 6:50? dunno.. maybe things are a little better now? or will be after 1:08 when the tide begins to push back in? No surf for me..

Saturday i took the SF-SC challenge.. woke up at 4am.. "Nightmares on Wax" establishing the groove on my 80mph drive down. Running down the trail to a santa-cruz-county pointbreak at 5:15. still dark.. Eastern sky *just* starting to lighten. wind isn't too bad and i can barely see the telltale signs of white-water peeling along. Sampled a bit of the sensi before paddling out solo in the dark. Immediately i'm stroking in to head-high pointbreak niceness.. nobody around.. barely light enough to see, not really light enough to gaze out toward the horizon to watch for incoming sets.. As the light increases two more wave-riders paddle out.. and the south swell makes itself known. Every 7 minutes or so 4 or 5 thick/juicy south swell lines voyaged in and cracked and peeled along the reef. Because of their steep angle (210 degrees) they would often wall up severely, sectioning and barrelling down the line. My best wave of the session i took off from really deep on one of these south-swell bombies. I kind-of got caught up in the kelp while paddling for it but the momentum of the wave just before it broke ripped me through the kelp.. then i just stood up and elevator-dropped down the face.. bottom turned and held my line for a second as the overhead wave rifled along, giving me a fantastic view.. then it began to slow down and i carved a big fat turn into the face, back into the whitewater... then another bottom turn and suddenly the wave was jacking back up and reforming on the inside bowl.. i just stood there, holding my position right in the pocket. foamball behind me, svelte conical cylinder ahead of me.. i pumped along and then traced another cutty.. then jumped off my board right near the beach.. exhilerated. I probably caught almost 30 waves during the session (2.5 hours).. 15 or so during the solo and then three-man super-dawnie. Getting in the water at 5:20 is a sure way to beef up your wave count. no doubt. then i got home at 11 and slept until 2! Felt like i had a mini day in between friday and saturday.

Yesterday i had a super-frustrating session North of town.. not too many waves coming in and all of those taken by the "crew." Oh well.. take the good with the bad..

soo.. there is a chance that Kaiser caught waves at Mandalay bay.. any report on that?

also.. word on the street is that Robme and Lerm enjoyed an exploratory Grey Whale Cove session yesterday.. Details gentlemen?

andy irons won yet another ASP contest.. geez..

umm.. yeah..

Gary sent me a few great OB shots.. check em'..
ob

ob

Can you say, "DUuuuudge!"
deep gauge

Bagel painted this for me.. i look at it before i leave my apartment and it gets me pumped up for barrelage..
bagel barrel

nice going. even though I don't wear boots the hike down that trail with it's triangle shaped pebbles is worth it. and so is the hike out with the pebbles feeling even sharper due to my foot bottoms being cold and pillowy like a dogs paw pads.I heard "town" was small sat. and confirmed it was small again sunday personally. but i got a wave every set for the 90 minutes I was out at the KHooook. So the early wake up and surf spot selection you made was the correct call....

Sat. there was some good local surf but the masses were out. Beachbreaks had a window of waves as the tide was heading out. Also hear Pacifica offered some fun at both beachbreaks prior to the gale forces coming up......

Posted by: tom at June 23, 2003 10:22 AM

e and all-

i heared on the TV offshores are expected in a few days if not tommorrow...

keep on the lookout

Posted by: phil young at June 23, 2003 10:29 AM

offshore winds.... drooooooooooool... i hope they wait till i get back... i'll be stoked for you guys though.... offshores feel like a dream from our ancient past...

i flaked on the east coast jam yesterday (the day after my bro's bachelor party), but speaking of dreams... I did have an epic session last night in a grey whale cove sort of break.... though my wave was more of a left coming from the south end... had some typical dream-type problems of trying real hard but not being able to catch some waves in that 'goal beyond your grasp' dream way... but I at least picked up some vivid imagery of open lines, other people surfing, and even some surreal duck dives that feel like real memories... so it sort of feels like a real session.

ok, back to reality. i look forward to hearing about everyone's weekends. nice score on saturday e. tasty inside bowl... Mmmmmmmmmm.

Posted by: jake at June 23, 2003 10:44 AM

Indeed, Mr Young. Tuesday and Wednesday look like the best bet. Steep angle windswell will start to back off fast once winds turn due northerly.

Now, I haven't really ever felt a 'true' offshore from May through September, but when the news calls it offshore, it is usually no wind at the beach instead. I'd keep a really close eye on the beach next coupla days - best bet in summer for OB surf.

Let's hope this drags on as a "heat wave" and lasts longer than Wednesday...

Surfed VFers Sunday morning early alone. Which says something about my need for salt water and the conditions...

Posted by: blakestah at June 23, 2003 10:49 AM

Yep...offshore conditions would be nice. Keeping fingers, toes and, you get the idea, crossed.

e-nice work on the dawnie...have to do that sometime. It's just so frggin hard to get out of bed that early. And my wife would disown me if I woke up our 20 month old on the way out!

On another note, Bagel, very cool art. Weren't you going to have a show at some point? Did it already happen? Would like to see some more of it and meet the legend. Do you do commissions?

And finally, on one more note: a week or two ago, I posted a question on Samoa. Nobody responded, but I figured I would try one more time. Has anyone been to Samoa and have input with respect to where and when to go, where to stay? Any info is appreciated.

adios

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 11:08 AM

e, nice work scoring SC. I contemplated heading down there on Saturday too, but was too hung over to get out of bed.

Surfed with Christian and Robme this morning at VFWs. Actually had a lot of fun despite the look of the conditions from the lot.

Sunday, met up with Robme at OB around 7:00am. Didn't look too appetizing and it seemed like the wind was kinda blowing out of the south slightly offshore! Robme and I were feeling adventurous. Stopped by Gazebo's on the way which was looking pretty nice, but the stairway was closed. BTW, the Gazebo is gone. On to Lindy which was looking marginal despite the South wind. We decided we were going to go to Montara and work our way back. Around Devil's Slide we looked down upon Grey Whale Cove and saw some nice offshore groomed peaks coming in! It looked maybe shoulder high and mellow from the road. A nice fellow named Jon joined us on a 6'0 mini looking single fin long board that he shaped himself. Robme and I sat on the beach stretching as he started to paddle out. 10 minutes and 50 duck dives later he was out. Oh shit! Needless to say our paddle out wasn't any better. I saw robme take off on one as I was still trying to struggle my way out. Big, thick, overhead windswell marching in and peeling in weird directions. It was hard to believe it was the same break that we saw from the road. After Robme's first wave, I didn't see him for a while. Finally, I looked over to my right and saw him venturing the cliff side to jump out to the line up. I caught one good ride and decided that I had taken enough of a beating and went in. Robme ended up jumped off and was ripped right out into the lineup. Bottom line, the place is heavy.

Got the day off tomorrow so I'm heading down to Santa Cruz to try to catch some of that South.

Also, I bought a ticket to Kauai for September. Can anybody suggest a good affordable place to stay on the North shore?

Posted by: lerm at June 23, 2003 11:16 AM

Oh yeah, Bagel that is good stuff. I would love to see more.

Posted by: lerm at June 23, 2003 11:19 AM

jdz.. all i know about samoa is that it has a few heavy, thick, barrelly reef-break waves.. I'm pretty sure that many of the better waves are accessed via boat. Most traveling surfers stay in a surf-camp type setup. It's frowned upon by the locals to surf on sunday. i've heard that it's not super consistent??

http://content.surfline.com/mag/features/samoa_resort/flashsamoa.html

have fun homie.. every picture i've seen of the waves there looks soooo fricken sick. super glassy and thick. deep barrels

Posted by: e at June 23, 2003 11:20 AM

8 days, no surf... Things are looking bleak for me.

Just returned from a solid withdrawl session at the dice tables in Vegas. E, no surf @ Mandalay Bay. I think you have to roll in there with some serious loot to get them to pump the wave pool up for ya. However, I did find out a Hawaiian guy runs the place. It would be so sweet to get a late night surf jam in there. Get like 2-3 buds, get super high, turn the wave juice up to about 6', crank some music and surf from like 10 until 2 a.m. then hit the dice tables! Or Steak & Lobster for $1.99! That town is nothing but filthe! I love it.

Anyway, only good surf story I have is as I was cashing in about $700 in chips at a random casino, I politely thanked the cashier for the new surfboard they just paid for! She of course returned with a niceness "Your welcome, I'm glad we could help!" Yeah, you did...

8 days without waves, in dire need of a post-Vegas re-baptising... I too drove the coastal route this a.m. pulling up short @ Lindy. I seriously thought about surfing VFW's @ 6:00 or so. Thought the high tide at Lindy would be better. No chance! Waves are shiz. Warm out though.

Looking forward to some "offshore flow" this week. No wind, offshore wind, whatever, just not gale force crap PLEASE!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 23, 2003 11:20 AM

samoa

Posted by: e at June 23, 2003 11:38 AM

e - thanks for the info. I haven't completely committed to Samoa yet, but it looks pretty intense. It's been awhile since I've had any warm tropical water surf. Maybe Fiji again? Anyone been to Namotu? Last time I went I stayed at Marlin Bay, very nice place. Surfed Frigates Pass...pretty hardcore left. Would like to go somewhere with a few more rights this time.

Cleared the schedule for Wed. in the hopes of getting some OB time in.

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 11:38 AM

yeah...sick barrel pic!!!

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 11:40 AM

samoa

Posted by: e at June 23, 2003 11:40 AM

Lerm, when you headed to Kauai? I will be over in Oahu for a good part of Sept. but I have some good friends that can look out for ya in Kauai. They have a sweet set up right on the beach.

Best place to stay during that time (or any other) is Hanalei. It is totally chill out there. Email me and I will give you some details on what I know.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 23, 2003 11:43 AM

JDZ-Samoa. Went three yrs ago. Stayed at Salani Resort (Western Samoa on the island of Upolu)
Best Time id during the southern hemi winter. You can book through Waterways travel. Fly out of LA. Monday Night. Arrive in Samoa Tuesday morning and leave Sunday Night. Also
surfing is not allowed on Sundays leaving you only 5 days of surfing. The waves near Salani consist of various reefbreaks, tend to get big, fast and hollow. There's a Left and Right, in front of the camp. and Boulders/ Forbidden Island is a short boat ride away. Camp only holds 10-12 surfers. When I was there we only had waves for 1 day. The rest of the time it was on & off rain with onshore winds. However the locals / food/ island itself is awesome..
However if I would you I would go to a place thats a bit more consistent. Like G-Land. (And probably cheaper too) Hope this helps... Let me know if you need more info..

Posted by: JVS at June 23, 2003 11:55 AM

Heard Namoto is now super $$$. They used to charge around 125.00 per day. Now its they charge 2,600 per week and a group of 20 is required. I guess you can be put on there waiting list, in case somebody cancels. Namoto owns the right to "Namotu Lefts" (easy left even when its big) and Swimming Pools(Right, regarded the best high performance wave on the island) I also heard they're tryng to get the fishing rights for Wilkes Pass(Right) as well.

Posted by: JVS at June 23, 2003 12:12 PM

lerm,
mahalo nui loa for twisting my head in the diection of Kauai this am. thinking of warm tropical water, surfing in board shorts and post session mango smoothies ...much better than thinking about work.

flying to the garden isle in july ...not the best time for north shore swell but the south shore road trip is always an adventure. with any luck you'll catch the faint beginnings of the early fall winter waves during your September trip.

Posted by: big mig at June 23, 2003 12:17 PM

Desperation surf at noon on Saturday out at VFW's. Looked nasty and was even nastier. A few rides but nothing good. Woke up late on Sunday after dancing to Truby Trio til 4am and got to the beach at noon again. But the conditions were much cleaner and fun waves were wedging up north of the windmill. Bunch of heads in the water enjoying waves. Caught a few goods and kooked on many as I was a bit hungover. Still felt good to work out the alcohol. I'm ready for some "offshores"...

Posted by: caveman at June 23, 2003 12:34 PM

JVS - Thanks for the information. Much more food for thought. The consistency issue scare's me a little bit...but I wouldn't mind kicking it in Samoa for a week anyway. We'll see. Bummer to hear about Namotu, sounds a little steep moneywise, but would be fun if we could swing it. I may call their booking agent just to see what they have to say.

Unfortunately, Indo is a nogo. The wife won't go near the place and she is coming with me on this trip. Hmmmm, got to figure something out...Kauai is starting to look good from those previous posts

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 12:39 PM

bagel -- Sick painting! Noticed your email address. Any surf niceness in Psychonauts?? :-)

Posted by: mwsf at June 23, 2003 12:51 PM

Lerm.. you're friggin stoked Brah!!! Kauai!! Daaaaammnnn!! niiice.. i'm jealous...

jdz.. bummer that your wifey won't go to indo.. the fact that many have the same thoughts as her has created some less-crowded indo lineups this season.. you could also go to the maldives or st. leu or reunion or mainland mex or nicaragua or the galapagos..

Lerm!! you're a ruatch!! i have to get my arse outta here too.. probably not until next summer though for me.. i'm a man without money. gotz to save my loot until then.. then hopefully 2 months in either indo, chili or africa.. hmmm... that's my pipe-dream..

Posted by: e at June 23, 2003 01:04 PM

surfed rockaway saturday midday... me and one other guy for about 10 minutes than got invaded, but still got fun waves actually, sunday about the same time at ob fun and wierd..

i went to namotu...it is pricey (i paid 2500 for a week) but you can surf on sunday's (whats up with that? i heard somoa or tonga was full of mormons is that why?) and it might be hard to get there, waiting list and all...but i had a great time..didnt score the biggest waves but i saw aaamazing potential and had alot of fun surfing and drinking and smoking (pretty much resort style livin)..i would die for over head swimming pools, thats interesting that their trying to get wilkes pass...

thanx e for posting that painting up..ya, im gonna be showing some paintings August 3rd (sunday afternoon evening style) at a friend of mines resturaunt on filmore and union st... should have the flyer done this week, ill send it...it will be good times and good to see y'all if you can make it...(free good food too) and ya jdz i do comissions, e commissioned me for that one..shoot me an email if your interested..

c'mon offshores...

Posted by: bagel at June 23, 2003 01:07 PM

he he..mwsf, im gonna try to throw some subliminal surfy shit in the game probably..lots of railslides for sure...

shit which reminds me!!...HEY! PARTY FRIDAY NIGHT!!..my work is moving and were gonna have a blow out at the warehouse we're in now. y'all are invited

215 clara st (alley off 5th st beetween fulsom and harrison)

kegs, food all that good stuff..good times again

friday night

(hey e, how do you post photos again? he he)

Posted by: bagel at June 23, 2003 01:16 PM

sorry, last post today i swear...some buddies of mine just returned from El Salvador with stories of a week of solid perfect rights...i guess its alot mellower there nowadays...would love to check that out

Posted by: bagel at June 23, 2003 01:24 PM

mmmmmm.....kauai....ahhhh...
stoked lerm.

fun/punchy cron nugs late am.
nice day out..
adios amigos.

Posted by: eightwest at June 23, 2003 02:03 PM

jdz - even though indo is a no-go, you should try the angle with Bali. If safety is the main issue, then I can vouch firsthand that it is super safe (I was there one month ago). People are extremely nice and everything (flight/hotel/food) is amazingly cheap because of the lack of tourists. Bonus - the surf camps in GLand were offering a week for $200/$250 when I was there.

Posted by: caveman at June 23, 2003 02:23 PM

Ahh great to read about the slurfage, vicarious thrills for me as I got sick this weekend and today. Arr.

Mid OB: yup it was going on mid Saturday. Also today there was a small pack out when I drove in around 10ish, by 11 ish the wind started hacking it, one guy remaining and with mucho stubborness/skill/patience plucked off a few last rides. This guy was doing serious zen battle with the Wave Repellent™, and beat it a bit. He left the water about the same time a huge kite showed up. It's windy and hacked now, whitewater chop as far as the eye can see.

Cheers, folks...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 23, 2003 02:40 PM

caveman - kaiser sent me an email saying basically the same thing. You both have inspired me. I will run it up the flag pole and see what the hell happens. Maybe I will just get her online and you all can sweet talk her for me. Kidding. I'll give it a go and see what happens...thanks again for the info.

wish me luck.

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 02:40 PM

caveman - kaiser sent me an email saying basically the same thing. You both have inspired me. I will run it up the flag pole and see what the hell happens. Maybe I will just get her online and you all can sweet talk her for me. Kidding. I'll give it a go and see what happens...thanks again for the info.

wish me luck.

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 02:41 PM

oops- soory for the double posty

Posted by: jdz at June 23, 2003 02:42 PM

JDZ--Swimming pools they call a tropical Rincon with no one out and Wilkes Pass is, depending on your travel resume, could possibly be the best wave you've surfed. So if you are looking for right handers in the South Pacific, you are in the correct region.

Rights to Swimming Pools and Wilkes are not exclusive (at least in year 2000 when I was there) So...you can stay at the Dive Camp just inside Tavarua called Seashell Cove. It takes less than 10 mins. to be ferried to the reef at Swimming Pools and another few to Wilkes.

On Saturday's Seashell Cove guests can surf Cloudbreak so immediately get your name on the list if you go.....cause it is limited to 8 ppl.

You can find tubes at Pools but the reef is probably 3-4 foot deep so you kinda surf over it.

Wilkes is a dry reef set up so......every wave is hucking to the flats and if you get caught inside it is a long trip around.

Anyway....Seashell Cove is alot less expensive and wifey and you can run all over the mainland of Viti Levu (shopping, culture, day trips, take a trip to frigates pass, or the mainland waves etc...) BUT.....Seashell does not include the boat to the reef in their fees and it can be like 25 bucks....(worth it as compared to Namotu prices but still steep) but if there is wind or no swell then you just dont go.

Anyway...you can email me for details.

E....you should do a travel tips section here to be stored in some area. Or maybe add search and then take the site out to the public markets and finance those pipe dreams......

Anyway....finance? Got none either back to sending resumes....got waves today though but no interviews so Indo will have to wait for me too.


Posted by: tom at June 23, 2003 03:28 PM

Did you guys hear about the rescue yesterday by a Coast Guard helicopter? I thought they said it was Grey Whale Cove...apparently he was stuck on the rocks. I think it was on the local CBS news last night. All they had was shitty film of a guy getting raised in a basket (from the view inside the heli) and then being lowered to the beach where they dropped him back off...no board.

Let me know if you see any story on this.

Posted by: toxi at June 23, 2003 03:49 PM

Ya, that was GWC. The guy they hauled out was me.

There were three people involved, and I think we all split before the news crews came along, hence the lack of details in the report you saw...

I was suited up with my board, walking down the path to the beach, when a guy ran past me and said "a girl just washed through the rocks", and pointed at the south end of the cove. He headed up to make a call for help. I ran down to the beach, took a look, and saw a couple people (w/o wetsuits) climbing around the rocks. I couldn't see anyone in the water. I didn't know at this point if the person who got washed over is in a wetsuit or not. Not finding that out, in retrospect, was a mistake, but I really didn't think to stop and ask. Figuring that anyone without neoprene being tossed among the rocks and the rip would be in a fairly dire situation, I paddle out through/into the rip, duck several small waves, and get out far enough to have a look back. Once I'm out there, I can't see anyone stranded in the rocks, or anyone bobbing around in the water around them. So I figure either they're gone, they climbed out themselves, or they've drifted way south.

I start to paddle sideshore, and in a minute or so I'm in a position where I can maybe catch a foamball in to shore, when another guy (w/ boogieboard) sails past me, in the rip, toward the rocks. A few seconds later he's yelling for help... sooo, I turn around and paddle for him, having no idea why he's yelling, whether its the rip, or a rocks, or a shark, or what.

No dice. The guy vanishes in the rocks and I lose track of him. In about a minute, I'm in the same position he was. A surge comes through and washes me into a churning pit between two sets of big rocks next to a cliff. I get slammed a couple times, ditch the board when the leash snags, and then I crawl up on a small rock, and start waving at the people on the south end of the beach -- which is now maybe 50 to 75 yards away -- trying to indicate that someone else had just washed further south around the point (and that I was now possibly screwed, too).

The tide's coming up and the tidal surges through those rocks are too strong to swim around in without fins. I try it a couple times and get washed back right where I started. So I crawl back up on a rock and wedge myself into a crevice slightly above the water level. That didn't last long. Within a few minutes the tidal surges are coming in over my head. By the time the Coast Guard helicopter showed up, 4-6ft surges were coming in over my position, submerging the crevice I was wedged into. It was a little sketchy. It had been a total of 30-40 minutes on the rocks, and I was about to try and bodysurf a surge back into the rip, when the CG helicopter showed up and hauled me out of there.

As it turns out the first person to get washed over was a surfer in a fullsuit. Had I known that, I would not have paddled out right into the thick of it. The boogieboarder was ok too -- he and the girl both managed to keep moving south and washed up on the next beach down -- maybe a 1/2 mile -- as did my board, with a nice new tail ding.

Support your local coast guard. ;-)

--

Posted by: grant at June 23, 2003 08:08 PM

Fuck! That's pretty intense! Way to make it outta there!

Posted by: toxi at June 23, 2003 08:34 PM

That's totally crazy, grant. Glad to hear you all came out of it okay!

Posted by: mwsf at June 23, 2003 08:54 PM

Please post for JDZ, i've been to Samoa, pretty tough to surf that place without going to one of the resorts...local laws prohibit just paddling out! I highly recommend Salani Surf Resort. Email me if you want more information! That place is epic. Scored good SC and SF waves this weekend! - matt

Posted by: matt at June 24, 2003 08:34 AM

Check this out: Barbara Streisand is suing the guy who posted the ariel California Coastline pics. What a biaaach!!

http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/internet/06/24/photog.streisand.ap/index.html

Posted by: Traut at June 24, 2003 04:37 PM

Check this out: Barbara Streisand is suing the guy who posted the ariel California Coastline pics. What a biaaach!!

http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/internet/06/24/photog.streisand.ap/index.html

Posted by: Traut at June 24, 2003 04:40 PM

Check this out: Barbara Streisand is suing the guy who posted the ariel California Coastline pics. What a biaaach!!

http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/internet/06/24/photog.streisand.ap/index.html

Posted by: Traut at June 24, 2003 04:40 PM

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Posted by: gansus at January 21, 2005 09:07 AM
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