E's Surf Report: surfable!

e, marco, kaiser - you guys made the right call this am. I started where you were, confidence waned...moved south...mid OB too big for me, but a few takers...sloat: even bigger, mushier, nobody venturing out..Lindy at 7 am: holy #$% it's farking enormous! Never seen it like that. A few takers on the south side...I debate and motor south...Montara: bwahhaha...jetty: 2 guys picking off mini nuggets, only shot available directly in front of the rocks on the north end... no room, no go. Drive north, debate Lindy, now quite crowded at south end and for some reason even as a kook I'm cursed at boatdocks, mid and north better for me even in crap conditions...back to north OB. Dammit I shoulda just paddled out and worked the inside! Arrrrrr! Doofus move, I skunked myself!

Ah well...tomorrow's my birthday so I'm gonna surf until my arms noodle. If anyone sees 'OB's Worst Surfer' flailing around on a borrowed shortish board, that'll be me. FYI since it's my birthday I'm asking for offshores and that everyone here finagle/weasel/feign illness their way to a great sesh. ;)

This too long post dedicated to Grant of Whale Cove - may your wave karma be deservedly excellent for the rest of your days! Holy crap you've earned it!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 24, 2003 10:32 AM

aaaand the incredible shrinking MID OB: sunny, calm, warm, and increaingly smaller than this a.m. There's some guys making increasingly shorter steep drops, outracing the closeouts or cruising the shoulder. Rides mostly right, seeing some talented rippas making floaters look easy. Fall of the day, June 24, is the bellyflop. Cheers...

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at June 24, 2003 11:29 AM

Off-surf post: Saw Mogwai last night at Bimbo's - probably the best show that I've been to this year. Absolutely amazing. Mogwai would start a song with low volume chords that would float in the air like a cloud, guitar or bass barely audible, then another guitar would join in, layering on top of the other sound, and other instruments would join, the layers would continue, like a building storm of soundscape washing over the crowd. These song would build, grabbing you with fierce intensity, and then, when they couldn't go further, they would somehow surge into a huge wave of concentrated sound that would pick you up and throttle you. And just as quickly, they would completely drop out, the wave receding, the storm passing, the intensity still reverberating in your body. Amazing - go see them when they come back in September.

Posted by: caveman at June 24, 2003 11:31 AM

probably 4 out of 5 mornings i plan to surf i end up hitting the snooze button for some extra pillow time. i'm sick of missing out on the surf i hear e talking about all the time, so i finally found some extra motivation: when I know it's going to be good, I purposely park my truck on Divisadero where they street sweep every morning from 6-8AM. this forces my cheap ass to get out of bed and check the surf.

pretty sure i was the first one out at VFWs today, a little north of you guys e. not anything spectacular, but it was my first session in like two weeks and it was well woth it. headed to chile this saturday for three weeks, i'm beyond stoked. first real vacation in like two years.

Posted by: bbr at June 24, 2003 11:35 AM

sorry so talky, but must add last post today: Mid OB has a few more peeps. More workage coming in. The window is currently open, how long, who knows. Calling long lunch!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbaot at June 24, 2003 11:43 AM

Today should be officially Grant day on niceness report.

If there are no photos available of Grant we can just all agree that he can be the guy in the 2nd shot titled "steep drop"

It takes balls to jump in to a shit sandwich like that and put your ass in the breeze to drag someone out.

GWC can offer upp the niceness, but it is a deep water spot so respect the juice of the deep water.

Posted by: tom at June 24, 2003 11:45 AM

That's a trip about Gray Whale Cove. Grant, glad you (and your board) are still with us! I admire your moxie paddling out on a resuce. It looks so innocent, but I've had my butt kicked twice there, and once (this past Sunday) on a day that was pretty tame at mother of beatings, OB.

E, I am back from Carolina, and I have been meaning to report I actually scored a little surf. It's the worse month for surf back east, particularly S.Carolina, but I did catch one day of waist to chest high wind swell (on my niece's tiny little board -- maybe a 5'8"?), still it was all magic. There's a sand bar about 400 yards off the main beach at Sullivan's Island -- paddle out to it, and it's just you, the pelicans, and the sand sharks. The bar is dry in some spots, under about 10 inches in others. Over the main land were massive thunderheads all black and flashing lightening. Over the sand bar, blue sky. Water -- 80 degrees. Not much juice to the perhaps 5 waves I caught, but a beautiful hour alone.

Posted by: robme at June 24, 2003 11:46 AM

I totally agree with Tom on Grant Day.

Posted by: robme at June 24, 2003 11:50 AM

Grant,
That was some SACKAGE you showed! Sorry to hear about your events on the rocks and the board damage. Good thing you got back to land safely. Another great NorCal story to add to the books! You definitely deserve some niceness shack-age for the sack-age!

E/Marco, nice grabbing waves with ya this a.m. E, man, glad you got your vibe back after not catching any waves there for a bit. I just always assume you are nabbing some here and there, doing your thing... After getting out and letting the ice cream melt from my head, I got a quick and fun right. Always nice to get the first one down. That was the first salty wave for me in 8 days. I got 2 really good lefts, one racing past/over/through a death bowl to the shoulder where I got a nice turn and then a stand-up kick out. Fun wave. Cut my hand on my fin but other than that, great time in mediocre conditions! Glad to bump into Christian on the way out, saw him race down the line on one and after the section he busted a floater about 15 yards in the white water... sweet move... I need to imagine doing those things.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2003 11:56 AM

Grant - hat's off to you...putting your life on the line for someone else is a noble thing that can few can do. It comforts me to know that I share the water with fellas like you :)

On another note...can someone explain this to me: why is Lindy bigger than Ocean Beach? This has happened today and a couple of days ago as well and I just don't get it. I had always thought that OB was much more exposed to wind and swell than Linda Mar, so why is Lindy bigger? Maybe I'm missing something really simple here and sounding like an idiot, but it just doesn't make sense to me.

Thanks ;)

Posted by: Mazi at June 24, 2003 12:56 PM

I too, was out this morning, at the north end. Perhaps earlier than anyone (unless bbr was that sponge I saw).

Paddled out, caught a few - mostly nondescript waves. Then a look a little north. A bar is just crushing. The sponge paddled north to me, then past me, and proceeded to get caught in a rip. Then, he paddled in and grabbed one. These waves were going "ca-thunk" when they broke, with a thick lip ripping onto obviously shallow water. Said sponge dropped 3-4 of these before heading in. I didn't do as well, but got plenty before psycho seal pup stalked me out of the water.

This pup, maybe 20 lbs, popped up next to me and stared me right in the eye. That always worries me. He swam toward me, head above water, and then dove. Over the next 20 minutes he kept popping up here and there. Finally, he got his nerve up, and popped up inches from my board. And stared at me.

I was not about to let a little dinky pup scare me, so I kept surfing. He stayed right with me, tailing me back out to the lineup after waves. Then, he swam under me and bumped my legs numerous times.

I paddled south to get away, past another surfer. He followed, so I headed in. It was almost time, anyway.

Psycho seal pup stalker. Did anyone else see him?

PS. Lindy is bigger because the swell angle is really steep - 330 degrees or so.

Posted by: blakestah at June 24, 2003 01:44 PM

Grant... your karma is strong! Wow, what a story. I've cruised by GWC a couple of times and thought about heading down for a surf, but it has never really looked that good. Now I have a good heads up on respecting it.

Mazi, probably a question for a surf-knowledge master like Blakestah, but I'd stay that Linda Mar must pick up these steep windswells better than OB because it is more north-facing (i.e., south storm winds blow off shore at the Mar).

-d

Posted by: dano at June 24, 2003 01:48 PM

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

Posted by: grant at June 24, 2003 01:54 PM

must've been just north of e + zen crew this morning - after (too long) hiatus surfed vfers from around 730-815...got flushed on paddleout & almost tossed a fresh cinnamon roll but recovered to get a few fun fast rights. caveman thanks for music report, like cinematic orch i was pondering that show but missed it. sounds fun. we overlap in musical tastes but you motivate to see the shows i blow off (truby trio too, or was that someone else?).

grant's story reminded me of a (far less heroic) incident i had once in la jolla rescuing a dog in huge rocky shorebreak. all turned out well but i was beat afterwards and learned a wet golden retriever is heavy as @#$!! anyways nice work / courage... to the coast guard too...

surf: maybe a bit calmer still tomorrow?
peace pablo

Posted by: paul b at June 24, 2003 01:56 PM

blakestah, i was indeed that sponger. if i would have known it was you I would have said hello. that rip took me by surprise when I paddled toward that peak you mentioned. before i knew it i was out to sea.

i never saw the stalker seal, but i was getting some major sea-life vibes out there. if you haven't seen it check out my site: 805bbr.com

Posted by: bbr at June 24, 2003 02:00 PM

Well, it must have been Blakestah in the north, BBR in front of the Chalet and the remaining niceness crew around 25/26 on the beach wall markings south of the Chalet.

Blakestah, we had a little annoying seal pup as well. Not sure if it was the same one. He wasn't as aggro as yours but he kept popping his head up. Just a little guy but still ever-present and suspect to say the least. I saw what I now recognize as bbr just down the way, yellow board?

There were some strange currents running this morning. The inside was pulling HARD south and the outside was ripping north. Very strange. Like E, I got stuck inside and just battered before calling it a sesh. Really forceful lines of white water chucking me everywhere.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2003 02:28 PM

is this you bbr? niiiice..

OB from bbr's site

pismo

Posted by: e at June 24, 2003 02:30 PM

haha that's definitely not pismo, i just named it that to throw people off. pismo couldn't get that good in its wettest dreams. it's on actually on a military base down south that i'm sure you've all heard of. and yep that's me in a little avila beach closeout my brother shot with his water housing.

that OB shot is from the best day i've ever seen at OB. before i ever moved up here i was just randomly visiting SF, drove out to OB around 11am and it was absolutely going off. like double overhead+ and offshore all freaking day. i had never surfed it before. i paddled out, got hammered on the inside, finally made it out, got stuck in a rip, freaked out, and caught one wave in. it was mental, but the waves were seriously unbelievable. perfect, barreling, puerto escondido type shit. i wish i could have that day back now that i know OB a little better. this was like november 2000 i think. i took a ton of photos that day that i should scan in and send to you e.

my brother just made a video, here's a little segment of the leftovers:
http://www.805bbr.com/news/news/earlyseason_hi.mov

Posted by: bbr at June 24, 2003 03:00 PM

yeah kaiser i noticed that mysto "only at OB" north-south situation: watching from the car, "better go a bit north of where I want to be," then once i'm on the outside, i'm drifting north: ?!?!?!

Posted by: paul b at June 24, 2003 03:11 PM

Anyone been out this afternoon? Winds? The reports are not showing much increase, between 5 to 10 mph and to die off later. Hmmmm.....

Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2003 03:19 PM

surfpulse cam is looking sweet right now. just decided that i'm leaving work. have to get out there...

Posted by: caveman at June 24, 2003 04:45 PM

Last Year two friends of mine, inexperienced surfers, had the exact same experience at Grey Whale Cove. They went out in the rip and wound up without boards on the rocks. Lesson: don't paddle out in rips that suck into rocks!!!

Posted by: at June 24, 2003 04:46 PM

e- I think you should add something to your site - a surf confessional, for those of us who have committed tresspasses against our fellow surfer. A sort of karmic release valve, as it were. A little e-chapel at the side of your main surf page, perhaps, something like this comment forum but strictly for getting stuff off one's chest and hopefully off one's cosmic surf-behavior rap sheet. Maybe have people vote on the degree of transgression (1 to 5 radio-button poll), with each level having some corresponding atonement, from level 1, something like "pick up five pieces of beach trash after your next sesh" to level 5 "pay for board repair and medical expenses of your victim." (Higher-level offenses likely to be handled by the actual court system)

My confession: Sloat, south end of the north lot, @ 2 pm, shoulder/occ. head-high walls coming in and a loose, well-spaced pack of a half dozen. Crumbly and not that steep, so late takeoffs required. I get ready to go on a right-hander, check off the two adjacent guys - 10 yds to either side - before paddling, spin counter-clockwise (away from the pit - technical error) and go. Late drop, frontside bottom turn is too sharp, board angles back up trhe face, pitching me onto my arse in the trough. As I hit the water, I hear a slight, anguished noise to the north. I surface and look - I had dropped in on a guy sporting shaggy hair and black wettie with red stripes on the shoulders. He'd been ripping pretty well the whole time I was out. I thought, before I turned the wrong way to paddle, that he was too deep and had passed on the wave, but he just took off 10 yards deeper, nice sacky late drop, only to have me a) drop in and b) botch it like a stiff-legged Wilbur Kookmeyer. I gave him the head-hanging-apology-hand wave, the international sign for "sorry I burned you, didn't see you there," and he paddled back out like a sport, without any chatter or attempt at retribution, which made me feel even worse. I throw myself upon the mercy of the tribunal...

Posted by: redworm at June 24, 2003 10:10 PM

don't rips always kinda suck into rocks? i think the bigger lesson is know a spot before you paddle into the rip. certain spots have rips that are your friends once you know the spot (westport jetty, seaside cove, shortys - sorry, all references from the great NW).

anyways, thanks again niceness crew, your posts help make the workday that much more tolerable!! when is the next AM surf/brunch?

Posted by: j at June 24, 2003 11:32 PM

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