a few waves...
whattup all y'all heads.. To all my brothers and sisters cranking away at their cubicles every day... attached via fiberoptics to the ever-growing lattice of human industry and commerce... soldiers in the capitalistic battle-ground of non-need-based societal enterprise... Have heart! When in doubt just remember the soft smile of your lover. Remember the scrumptious divinity of breyer's mint chocolate chip ice-cream. Remember the seemingly limitless freedom of a friday-afternoon monster-jam.. but.. most importantly, remember that last soul-gratifying wave.. the one where you were balanced and pushed your limits and wish you had on video. Remember the tranquility of your last quiet dawn patrol with a few buddies. Remember that time when you took off late and made the drop.. Remember the glide my friends.. being pushed along by that anomalous, mystical, harmonious natural expression of wave-form energy. yup..
sooo.. I found waves once again somewhere south of the golden gate. at around 6:07 i pulled up to Sloat and thought at first that i'd just jump in there.. surface didn't look too bad, small waves peeling and beckoning.. Upon closer inspection, however, conditions looked small and dumpy.. i think i noticed a few south swell lines.. but.. not sure.. there were plento-o-sections out there.. especially for the longboard folks.. probably waist/shoulder high.. mostly mushburgers though... I also noticed a particular stank to the air.. you know.. that death stank.. and, sure enough, a huge, dead seal lie on the beach at around the mid-tide line.. I didn't investigate for bite marks.. but.. combined with the bite-marked seal that washed up two days ago and Wilber the dead Whale at Kirkham i felt the presence of the tooth.. the landlord.. the man in grey.. whitey.. Jonny Jaw... i was audi.. back down to our favorite san mateo secret spot.. expecting throngs and hords of frothing wave-riders in response to the discussion yesterday i was pleasantly surprised to be the first one in the lot! One other guy pulled up as i was changing. I ran down to try and capture a few rides before the onslaught began.. but.. to my surprise and amusement.. this one other guy was the only other to paddle out in the next hour... he cruised out about 200 yards north of me.. then there was a small crew of 5 or 6 at the south end. All 8 or 9 of us totally spread out, each at his own peak.. If you were out there this morning i thank and commend everyone for not needlessly condensing into a pack. The waves were few and far between but glassy and well-formed when the did come through.. i caught some of my best rides of the week on this bulbous, chunky right that repeatedly looked like it would close out but instead offered a high-speed, racy, smooth, pitching section. Most of my rides on this right consisted of a calculated last-second take-off, then just pumping like a mad-man to make the sections.. then a final lip-dance or gaff or kooky wipeout as it closed out. lots of waiting today.. but.. the beauty of the beach and mountains, the comfy chill in the air, the hovering pelicans and a friendly seal made the waits tolerable and even interesting..
soo.. that's that.. record number of posts yesterday (69)... nice number huh! umm.. so many of you are articulate and good-viby and stoked and thoughtful and talented.. aww yeah!
here are some of my faves from yesterday..
from Jimmy:
traffic, lineups, supermarket checkouts, cities...although we are for the most part an individualistic society, the subconscious undercurrents state otherwise. fortunately, we as humans have the capacity to think. we can either get pissed off that EVERYBODY seems to be in the supermarket at the same time as us, or we can stand back, relax and enjoy those steamy tabloids we've been itching to read for weeks. in other words, each of us has the choice to be happy or mad. when put into perspective, is the issue of territory really paramount? global warming, starvation, oppression...are these not the issues to concern ourselves with? the territory we call ours could, by the power of nature, be stripped in a moments time leaving us with nothing but our memories. do we do life justice with memories of anger and aggression? would the time we have now not be best spent in enjoyment and celebration of all that we call "ours"?
from J:
all you joe hardcore stinkeyes out there, FUN! holy shit, people surf because it's FUN??? say it ain't so
from Grant:
flying groms and pearling logs and wedgey sucky peaks over boils.
from pixel pete:
I have to surf Kron, and theres no report for that shit hole
from beagle:
on another note i heard if you get attacked by a shark your supposed to punch it in the gills or poke it in the eyes..i prefer to carry a knife on my ankle when im surfing like the guy in point break
from blakestah:
Sean Collins who is selling out every surf hood on the California Coast for personal profit
from caveman:
keep the niceness flowing
from jdz:
FUCK THE SHARKS!!!!
from kaiser:
I follow, I lead, I sleep and I eat at various times of the day.
from bagel:
mmuhuhuhuuahahahaahaa
from dano:
I really don't like surfing with 10 gillion other people.
from blakestah:
i scoff at your driving
from mwsf:
Had one of the best seshies of my life
angry jeff:
"It's that goddamned Internet!"
Ireland
Bagel heads
Betho's chill painting
It's always nice to provide the spark.
People must be staying away to avoid being seen as a cell-toting, internet-grazing, Cam-watching, peak-packing, Lurker.
I'm all for that.
Keep the niceness flowing all.
e - nice to finally meet the man behind the keys. i rolled into the parking lot as you were heading out. left my cell phone at home. i am trying to surf a lot over the next few weeks in preparation for my first trip to Hawaii (oahu/kauai - anyone got inspirational southshore pics?). i'll probably see you out there again soon. thanks again for creating this space and promoting a communal vibe.
Posted by: loon at July 31, 2003 11:18 AMslater interview in sfgate
Posted by: e at July 31, 2003 11:42 AMhttp://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/chronicle/archive/2003/07/31/SP39368.DTL
word! No surf for me this morning. Clocked 10 hours of water over the past three days, my body has to recoop. I'm gunna go ride the concrete waves at the Berkley skate park. We're filming for a video for our friend's new skate shop in San Mateo called Environment. I hope everyone scores and it was cool to see what everyone had to say yesterday! Oh yeah, I was at a party last night at Irving and 39th and someone broke into our parked right next to the park. We took chase on foot and I was directly behind the guy when I realized it probably wasn't the best idea to tackle him as he may have been armed with a gun or a knife infected with some GnArLy ass disease. He ran into the park, and we lost him, the police came and looked for him. Never found him. Pretty crazy. My friends girlfriend got her wallet stolen. Exciting night.
Posted by: Ian at July 31, 2003 12:17 PMLooks like we may be experiencing the flip side of the problem of info-magnetism. People clearly decided to be extra chill at M... that secret spot, by spreading out among the peaks and even going elsewhere. It's no double-blind scientific trial, but since conditions on both days are pretty similar, I'm thinking that the airing-out of all these issues on this board yesterday has a lot to do with today's improvements. Anyone else think we've just witnessed the internet actually remedying a crowd chafe?
Posted by: redworm at July 31, 2003 12:25 PMHave you ever wondered what you would ask the 6-time World Champ of surfing if you could spend an hour or 2 with him? Ever curious as to what goes on in Slater's head when he throws some ridiculous backside 360 cutty back up a 8 foot face at Pipe? What was it really like to tag Pam Anderson? Well....
Marco, Bug and I scored a legendary evening with the reigning Pimp of Surfing last night in Oaktown. Not only was I blown away at being in the same room as this guy but he really showed the crowd of 50 or so why he is the greatest living surfer of our time. I felt like a kid in a candy store. The word "Professional" doesn't do him justice. "Insightful" doesn't describe his words. "Passionate" is an understatement with this guy.
A little shot of the Bugman and yours truly hanging with the man (identities have been used to protect the innocent):
Posted by: Kaiser at July 31, 2003 12:37 PMenjoyed yesterday's Forum69. wide range of interesting thoughts and a nice recap today by E...on the slater note, though any surfer enjoys some solitude, i found the concluding quote from the interview pretty inspiring...
>
Posted by: paul b at July 31, 2003 01:01 PMhmmm that was even more zenned out than i intended. somehow the quote disappeared...it was as follows:
"in crowds, you need to be more at peace with yourself. you have to be comfortable letting others have things. if you enjoy watching someone you don't even know get a good ride, then you're enjoying surfing even more."
Posted by: paul b at July 31, 2003 01:04 PMthanks paul b.. yeah.. i thought that particular quote pretty relevant to yesterday's discussion..
on another note.. anyone know how the south swell looks in santa cruz county?? dano?? has anyone out there definitively ridden one of these new south swell pulses?
Posted by: e at July 31, 2003 01:09 PMFYI Slater is at the Book Passage in Corte Madera tonite at 5pm.
Sambo and I just booked a trip to Mainland Mex for the last week in August. First time there. Anyone have any tips on spots, books? Planning to hit Ticla and usual spots but the more intelligence the better.
Posted by: biggsie at July 31, 2003 01:48 PMIt's been nearly a week since I've been in the water and I'm definitely feeling cranky and out of sorts. I have somewhere to be early this evening, so I hope there's something to ride here in the city later this afternoon - I can't go too far afield.
Posted by: Jimmie at July 31, 2003 02:20 PMYesterday's airing-out on this site was very interesting. There are some clear thinking, insightful individuals up in he-ah!
I was especially struck by the folks who, in the midst of all of us carryin'-on about "internet this / and cell-phones that," spoke up to remind us that surfing is about having fun. True dat! Maybe it's the cold water, or the sometimes serious conditions at places like Ocean Beach, but too often the line-up seems to be filled with a lot of grumpy faces here-abouts. I remember paddling out one time at Sloat Street a couple of years ago. The waves were shoulder to head-high in clean conditions - several waves per set, everybody gettin' some. Even so, just about everybody was acting all serious, looking like they just got back from a doctor who gave 'em some bad news. I saw a friend of mine (a local-boy - well-known in certain OB circles) paddling out, hooting and hollering at me, with a big grin on his face, just as I dropped in to a nice face-high left. I noticed some of the other surfers looking at his display of enthusiasm with contempt and disgust as I paddled back out towards him. Some of them actually paddled away muttering under their breath. I got up to him just as a nice peak popped up just outside the two of us, "Which way are you gonna go, Bobby," I yelled? To which he shouted back, with a huge grin, "Who cares? Let's go TOGETHER!"
LET'S GO TOGETHER!? What an idea!? No long-faced resentment 'cause I just had a good wave and now am ready for another? No jockeying for position, pushing your friends so deep that NO ONE can make the wave? You mean just have fun? Together? We both went for it, but Bobby got the wave to himself. I couldn't quite get in it, I was laughing too hard, having too much FUN.
shiet!...i go away for a couple of days and i'm outta the loop! ; ) when i first saw "69 comments" on yesterday's posting, i thought "WTF?! what went down?". then i read the string and found a discussion that reminded me why this site rocks! it goes beyond the positive stoke that makes dumpy waves fun...beyond the sic pics that make us all drool and that tempt us to throw everything aside to chase storm patterns around the globe...beyond the friendly banter.
yesterday was one of the best examples of open debate i've seen in ages. differing opinions. insightful comments...from both "sides". yet, it was a debate that is, i believe, anchored by a common love for the glide, for the experience, for Mother Ocean, and for pos vibe....in the water and out. whatever side you're on...or even if you sorta straddle both...yesterday's comments likely made us all think about someone else's opinion on an issue that's important to everyone here and, perhaps, evolved some of our perspectives.
...and that's pretty frickin' cool.
Posted by: ck at July 31, 2003 02:55 PMI want to go to slater's booksigning tonight..anybody carpooling? need a ride?
regarding yesterday... an experienced surfer cannot be 100% against protectionism but can't be totally for the draconian "I was here first, so go home" attitude, either. same goes for the debate on naming places. PLEASE, there's gotta be some dividing line out there between acceptable and unacceptable info sharing. I think it would be a little boring to not be able to make any references at all.
Posted by: bertrand at July 31, 2003 03:27 PMand one other thing... I'm still so damn mad at whoever decided to bury wilbur right at the waterline..instead of taking reasonable measures to avoid the shark attraction (burying above the high tide line, towing it to sea, etc.)..I think the authorities completely ignored the users of the water and should be hit with a class action lawsuit for negligence endangering surfers, bodyboarders, bodysurfers, swimmers, wading tourists...proceeds of which will go to whomever whitey tags first. sharkbite lottery.
Posted by: bertrand at July 31, 2003 03:33 PMbigsie: good luck in mainland mex. i was there in May of 2001 & 2002. some great spots north of puerto vallarta, chacala being the highlight for me. seems like a bigger swell is required to make anything inside the bay of banderas break. had better luck with size further south - ticla & nexpa. watch for wet road conditions in ticla, or rent a 4x4 if that's gonna be your main spot. nice palapas on the beach at nexpa, also a great little town just south called campo de caleta. see you out there ...
Posted by: loon at July 31, 2003 04:14 PMSouth swell definitely weak up in these parts. All local breaks look small and gutless. Looks like it is showing as far north as the Morro Bay bouy right now. Not sure if that is the beginning of it or not but it looks like it should arrive tomorrow or overnight. Keep a watch on it!!!! Hopefully we get some juice tomorrow to get the stoke going for the weekend.
Anyone confirm that the HMB bouy is actually back up? Blakestah... Anyone... Bueller.... Bueller...
Posted by: Kaiser at July 31, 2003 05:17 PMit's up...
http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?station=46012
Posted by: Bueller at July 31, 2003 05:26 PMpt conception is at 3.6ft 17seconds (5:52pm)!! but the california and SF buoys still aren't feelin' the heat.. both at 9seconds.. hmmmm.. no computer for me until post-surf tomorrow.. soo.. crossin' my fingers..
Posted by: e at July 31, 2003 05:53 PMthat was some fun shit yesterday... need to surf
Posted by: bagel at July 31, 2003 06:42 PMkaiser that picture of you and bug is classic
Posted by: bagel at July 31, 2003 06:45 PMBagel... nice pics as usual. Betho, nice... don't think that e's posted any of yours before. e, good luck surfing somewhere south of the Golden Gate tomorrow.
I love that some people are still dressed in gloves, booties and hoods. It's really not that cold! Wait till December.
-d
Posted by: dano at July 31, 2003 07:30 PMSurfed twice today. Ahee! Good fun.
South is and has been hitting here, don't know why some of ya couldn't notice long period swell at 2 ft 14-17 sec. Anyway, the angle of the dangle is shifting closer to due south, and that will pretty much miss everything from Pigeon Point through the GG Bridge. Tomorrow would be a good time for the challenge.
However, this is a 2 footer. And I ain't going anywhere as long as there is 3 ft 8-9 sec at home. You can keep your pissy driving as long as I can surf at home.
See you in the lineup.
One other thing. I rode a super fun twinzer fish today. It was maybe 6'2", thin, swallow tail with nearly parallel rails, and loved to rip down the line. Probably the most fun fish I've ever ridden.
Posted by: blakestah at July 31, 2003 10:13 PMGotta think the 4 fin config had something to do with that. It also has really neat artwork. Good fun.
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