E's Surf Report: looks flat..

sorry about the late post.. i had a work meeting..

no slurf for me this morning. blakestah reports that,"the beach is absolutely NOT working this morning. Light onshores and mushy tiny waves."

sooo.. that doesn't sound too promising..

Bagel, Kaiser and i met for a tuesday arvo sesh and sesh yesterday afternoon. Reports trickled in that there were still waves to be had at the beach.. coupled with sunshine and the warmest water in years and we be on dat shite.. Met up at Bagels and sampled some of his friend's indica.. stonily talked story for a while and then remembered that we had gotten together to surf, dag-nabit! soo.. surf we did.. Talking Heads "Remain in the Light" cranking as we pulled up to a mid-beach mysto south-swell sandbar.. Sunrays beaming down onto shoulder-high groundswell peelers.. rights and lefts... stoke building and frothing.. long stretch on the beach as pelicans glide in formation.. Slow, deep breaths as surf-enriched muscles groan from recent overexertion.. Paddle out to the peak.. almost no need for wetty.. waiting for the sets.. shooting the shit.. 6 or 7 wave set ripples through.. we each snag one.. Smooth Operator blips the lip.. Kaiser charges undaunted.. Long-ass waits but waves funnel in.. keep us satisfied.. then.. all of the sudden... the motha-fuckin fog rolls in.. like a grey blanket of the metaphysical unkown.. thoughts of the tooth suddenly take form in my mind.. thoughts of the legendary "fog eel" fills me with consternation.. the "fog eel" is a rare species along the northern california coast that only comes to the surface during extremely foggy conditions. as it's afraid of the light and sun.. The "fog eel" has these stange, shadow-like black eyes. If you stare at them long enough you become entranced.. the fog eel then slithers up to you and bites your achilles heel.. sucking blood and life-force.. soo.. next time you're surfing in the dense fog in nor-cal.. watch out for the fog eel..
anyway.. we had a grand-ol-time catching mini groundswell pulses for a few hours yesterday.. there probably are a few tricklers coming through this morning.. might be a good occasion to take your honey, or your grandma or your dog out for an OB surf sesh..

i have to say that after this south-swell bonanza this week.. and the Montara niceness last week.. my body is craving some rest.. or at least to switch it up a bit.. soo.. the flat spell predicted for the next few days may not be such a bad thing.. is that blasphemy!?

ldogg sent some baja pics in
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Justin sent this in.. sign me up!!
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really no surf to be had, but since i've been out of town, i forced it out at OB just to get wet.

holy shit, warmest water i've ever felt out there. downright tropical

session worth it for that fact alone . . .

Posted by: bojon at August 6, 2003 10:49 AM

yeah...blakestah said it...there was nothing but dappled plate glass from sloat to the secret south spot this AM. and i mean nothing-nothing. this must be what they mean by "outside the norcal swell window". ha. i've never seen the pacific ocean so uniformly tranquil...but it's cool to hear that the warm water persists...though i'd trade it for some more waves...

good luck if you go north...

Posted by: friendly at August 6, 2003 10:55 AM

fun time yesterday...that wall of fog, one minute im wishing the sun would quit burning my eyes as im watching the horizon, the next minute i cant even see the beach, it just rolled in and pushed the south out of the water..oh well..i wish i was all surfed out..i seriously got the tail end of everyones perfect south swell summertime rompings this weekend..good times though..

Posted by: bagel at August 6, 2003 11:09 AM

I concur with all of the above. Ocean Beach is flat, flat, flat. I'll be driving to work along The Great Highway for the next couple of weeks, while my wife is in NY, so maybe I'll try checking in with an early morning drive-by report - no details, just glittering generalities.
During yesterday's late afternoon surf at Ocean Beach there was a guy out there with his (looked like about 6-year-old) kid on a big ol'log doin' the tandem thing. They'd catch the soup and the
kid would pop-up at the nose, while his ol' man stablized it from the tail - coolness! Perfect day for it.
The water is SO warm, my 4.3 was WAAAAAY too much suit. If there were any waves out there today, I'd be sportin' the shorty - seriously. Is this warm water now a harbinger for El Nino this winter, or is it just a weird momentary thing?

Posted by: Jimmie at August 6, 2003 11:24 AM

Woke up in the dark, reheated some coffee, picked up semi-stale bagel ( not the surfing one ha ) kiss the dog , hit the road, I'm wearing my wetsuit - yeah come on officers I dare you cops to give me a ticket now - warm wind in my face, cranking the Janes Addiction...yeaaaah.... oh I am sooo coooool.... lookit me rocking out and charging dawn patrol... hit the meet spot at 5:50...yeah we're ready to surf at 6 am...woah it's FLAT! Drive south and watch sun come up and chat w/Friendly..it's still flat. Drive up OB again...flat flat. SUPER SKUNKED! Ahhhh haha

Mid OB: very purty. Very flat. Onshore breezy and choppier than yesterday. No one out but boats and fishing folks. Sunny and warm, vague fog belt on the horizon. There's some mushy south somethingerothers almost working but not quite. The micro second it's surfable I'm jumping straight out my window into the water!

Stoked about everyone's surf last weekend/week. Hopefully I'm building good karma...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 6, 2003 11:24 AM

so true...so true...super-skunked is the word of the day! it was very fun to look for waves and chitchat with sharkbait, though...we had ourselves a nice gush about new boards and kooky physics. today was also a good reminder that the early summer sun will not be with us forever...so sad to see the solstice fading...

i did catch an incredibly celestial sunrise between HMB and San Mateo, though...mother nature never disappoints!!! she swept up all her water energy this morning and threw it into the sky...

Posted by: friendly at August 6, 2003 12:24 PM

so great to have the ladies stoked and chattering on this here board.. three cheers for all the niceness ladies! friendly, sharkbait, welle, betho, james, anastasia!!! awww yeah!!

Posted by: e at August 6, 2003 12:39 PM

yo niceness!! i just spent an hour+ reading over the comments from the last few days... stellar!!! from e's pictures from the past weekend to everyone's stories about this sweet south swell ya'll just scored... how awesome!! definitely makes me happy to hear about all our favorite norcal spots lighting up. i'd probably be jealous, but we have a week of waves over here, so it's allll goood. fun sess yesterday... i lack the terminology to describe what the wave was doing... but it was very rippable... it would wall up and keep pushing and thrusting forward, but would hold off from breaking... maybe the word i'm looking for is wedgy... plenty of ramp to get back up and hit the soft lip... easy floaters over small sections... etc. Anyway, all of your stoke has fired me up to set my alarm for DAMN EARLY tomorrow morning, do my hour and a half drive to surf in the predawn light for a phatty DP. wooord.

Phish Phestie Report: very good music, only ok setlists, but excellent Festival overall. it's great how they hire all these artists to trip the place out... a "Sunk City" in the venue with a crazy funhouse, catwalks through the trees, and 10,000 rolls of masking tape to weave a psychedelic spider web in the forest, etc. Only 12 hours of traffic to go the last 10 miles into the venue (although that made for a fun roadside party). Musical highlight: siiick Ghost with by far the best most frenetic glowstick war I've ever seen. New life mission: to better understand the connection between music and surfing. Energy. The relation between the patterns of a jam, and jamming on a wave.

Finally, a big middle finger to the JI terrorists. And much LOVE to all those affected and to the Indo people themselves. In the face of all this hatred, let's remember to be sources of Positive energy in this world. peace friends!

Posted by: jake at August 6, 2003 01:20 PM

that was a strange fog last night at ob, very low, with little wind. hadn't been out since saturday, so the monkey on my back overpowered any concerns about whitey and the fog eels. had a blast with my longboard, although now that i am consistently riding a shortboard i find that really need to concentrate on shifting my position & weight to my back foot when turning, especially if there's any chop in the water.

optimistically woke up at the crack today hoping to get just a bit more out of this swell, but was denied from sloat all the way to the jetty. ran the hmb beach instead, and a few seals and dolphins parked within 10 yards of the waterline helped me get over my disappointment.

headed to Yachats, OR next weekend for a wedding, anyone have input about surfing around there?

Posted by: loon at August 6, 2003 01:38 PM

Hey All,
Got back from BIRI on Sunday night. I thought I was gonna wow everyone with my east coast stories but it sounds like SF was the place to be. Good on you! Geez E the sight has such a loyal following that it takes several beers to catch up on two weeks worth of news. Shout out especially to Nico and I am glad to hear he is recovering well. I am bummed I missed the south, the brunch, and Bagel's show -- but considering what I traded it for, solo sessions in warm clear water, walking through fields of hibiscus and wild rose to see some random spot I even thought of totally firing -- well it wasn't a complete loss.

Anyway, I have a ton of questions for everyone but I'll save them for the next time I see folks in person. Cooool y'all. Peace.

Posted by: robme at August 6, 2003 01:56 PM

Good show tonight at DNA Lounge - Halou. They sound similar to Morcheeba, Portishead, etc. $12

http://www.halou.com/

Posted by: caveman at August 6, 2003 02:46 PM

this is where i'm off to on sunday for a week..

Posted by: e at August 6, 2003 02:58 PM

robme!! i can't wait to hear the BIRI details.. give us a little taste if you have time.. Black Rock peeling? Your secret left points working?

Posted by: e at August 6, 2003 03:06 PM

weeelll, okie doke, since you ask! black rock was a pretty good utility break. A storm blew through, and it got kinda big, not huge, just like headhigh+. Not clean, but with that kinda size on the East Coast, I kinda felt obligated. Plus I had put my rental car through hell getting through one particular mud hole. Anyway, surfed it alone, in trunks until I was just too cold. Took about 2 hours. When it gets that big there, a set just drains the boulder field, so you either have your extreme right shoulder into Split Rock Cove or your extreme left toward the red nun that marks the point. Both were going. Then next day, it dropped a hair, the sun came out, the sea surface was basically glass. As in molasses. About eight people out. Super mellow seen. Everyone having a grand time. That was the one day in two weeks I surfed with anyone at all. An older guy from Montauk was pretty much killing it. He had a cut up foot, so he wore a single converse high top, ala Michael Jackson. Whatever -- clearly did the trick. Most of the rest of the trip, the surf was only waist to chest high. But the water was very clear. Between sets, I would swim around on the bottom looking back up at my board. Air smelled like perfume in the way that islands always seem to. Then one moring, I just randomly got up before anyone, which is quite an accomplishment in itself, in a house full of Yankee work ethic, and drove to the south end of the island and went for a walk. I had Gary's 5'10" quad from like 1980, and lo and behold there was this peek. I thought it was gonna be dead flat. But this perfect little peek, a lot like Rem's Reef if you have ever seen that break, just kept going. The sets were regular, every 10 minutes, and every set had like 8 waves or something. I have no idea where that swell came from as it wasn't there the day before or the day after. Anyway, it was like candy. The peak was the headhigh, the rest chest down to waist. You had long lefts, and a hollow little right. You could basically say "Okay, I want to practice my backside floater" and sure enough the section you saw on the last one would be there again, and boom, hit it, fall, boom hit it fall, boom hit it fall, oops sets over. Here comes another boom hit it make it yeah, okay let's try a forehand gouge-to-cutback. The tide killed it, but only after about 2 hours, and I never ever saw it break again. (A tear drops.)

All in all, I got 5 good sessions in 14 days, so it wasn't the most consistent surf trip. But hell, not bad either considering there wasn't even any tropical depression in the whole Atlantic Ocean! The boys had a blast and basically lived at Mansion Beach 8 hours a day. "Manch", Silas calls it. In fact Silas is super amped on surfing right now and he took his boogy board down to Ocean Beach, in trunks, today, not understanding that this coast is a bit colder. He only lasted about 30 minutes but he bellied a couple in...

Posted by: robme at August 6, 2003 03:44 PM

Mid OB: The Great Plains. Siberian Tundra. Highway I-5 from Redding to Vacaville. Denny's Pancakes. FLAT. Pray for a miracle. However, it is very warm and a gorgeous day outside. There's something extra cool about the light out here - it might be the offshore fog diffusing and softening the sun.

Robme - great trip report! Magical moments.

Christian - OMG you must be so stoked!!

Your kids are gonna be the healthiest, happiest surfy little buggers...;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 6, 2003 04:53 PM

robme! that sounds like so much fun! a little A-frame all to yourself on good ol' BI! plus you scored some legit black rock.. soo cool.. it's really great that the surfing population hasn't totally exploded there yet.. might have to do with the fact that it's kind-of a bitch to get down the road to blackrock.. soo many points and reefs on that island.. you know there are some mysto spots when the waves cooperate! sounds like you found one! niiiice.

christian - that beach looks sick.. i want to go to Brazil!! stash me in your board bag!

Posted by: e at August 6, 2003 04:54 PM

Definitely, Christian. Dude, that's killer, your brazil trip. One of these days, I'm gonna go with. Yeah, let's catch up!

Posted by: robme at August 6, 2003 04:55 PM

E, SS, thanks! Definitely fun, though it sounds like everyone had their fair share hear. Cloude sent pictures of mysto Marin last weekend, sweeeet.

Posted by: robme at August 6, 2003 05:06 PM

Just heard that Step Into Liquid is playing tonight at the Roxie. Starts at 7pm. Tickets are $10. More info here: Gen Art

Cheers y'all! Nice scores, Robbie!

Posted by: mwsf at August 6, 2003 05:14 PM

brazil! hoje e un dia miuto linda! or something like that. seriously, i'm in. i'm packed. let's go!

muchas gracias for the east coast story, northern photo op, and inspiring link (i'm dreaming of a trip south)...you three just got me through a rough patch in the afternoon workload. nice! so much work today, and so little play...alas.

it really doesn't look like there's any good news on the horizon...i mean that literally...can anyone see otherwise, or are these fears that the waves are gone until late weekend true?

Posted by: friendly at August 6, 2003 05:18 PM

NW 10-12 second swell (4 ft) by Saturday.

South swell by Sunday or Monday, 180-190 deg or so, nothing too large.

Next two days - good time to get some work done.

Posted by: blakestah at August 6, 2003 05:27 PM

[ 'scuze too many posts ] but FYI a headless seal washed up near Rivera. Just took the dog out, walked by it. Yum.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 6, 2003 07:03 PM

Is this a fresh headless seal? Gah! This mangled-seal-found-at-the-beach business has gotta stop! Can someone inform the landlord that there are more tasty vittles offshore at the Farallons?

More info on Step Into Liquid in SF:

STEP INTO LIQUID - opens August 15 at Embarcadero Center Cinema
Stunningly photographed directorial debut of Dana Brown, prodigal son of renowned filmmaker Bruce Brown (ENDLESS SUMMER II), covering the broad spectrum of surfing's cultural wavelength-from the acrobatic free surfing of the world's top professionals, to the brave tow-in crews conquering 60 feet waves in the middle of the ocean, to some crazy cats who surf the wakes of supertankers off the coast of Texas. Features appearances by Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, the Malloy brothers, Gerry Lopez, five-time world champ Layne Beachley and legend Robert August.
http://www.stepintoliquid.com
** Special guests on opening night, Friday, August 15, by the film's Director of Photography and Producer John-Paul Beeghly, and surfer Dale Webster, who is featured in the film. Dale is kind of an ultimate "soul surfer," who, since September 3, 1975, has surfed in the cold waters off Bodega Day EVERY SINGLE DAY! This feat of more than 10,000 days of consecutive surfing is in the Guinness Book of World Records.

Posted by: mwsf at August 6, 2003 07:32 PM

Hey you all..... just moved from SF to Oahu four months ago, but still follow the happenings of the niceness gang. Sounds like epic conditions the past week or so. Makes me miss the NorCal coast. Conditions here in Hawaii have been flat, flat, flat. These south pulses keep missing us completely. After a very strong start to the season with back to back mongo swells, we've been struggling to find any bumps we can. Anyways enjoy all that the ocean has to offer and it looks like another south is on the way for you all. I'm heading back end of Sept for a road trip to Baja with some buddies from SF, so I hope a swell rolls on through then. Aloha.

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