YO!!!
what up lads and lassies!
back from mendo..
now i'm up in this mo' fo'
gettin' skunked like a ho'.... dad'
we gotz da crazy-wack onshores!
oh yeah
we gotz da weak piddly wind-swell
oh yeah
we gotz da dirty-funky water
oh yeah
we gotz da tweaker-freak locals
oh yeah
Lerm reports suckage at Lindy
oh no
Looks like suckage at OB too
oh no
maybe some north-facing exposed beach-break
oh yeah
because we gotz the south wind and small wind-swell
oh yeah
ok ok.. enough.. i hope that all y'all enjoyed some quality-time in the green room this last week.. I've been effectively "off-the-grid" all week up north in mendo. I ended up scoring 3 somewhat random but enjoyable sessions. I surfed this ginormous, exposed beachbreak most of the time. The vertically-challenged swell wasn't enough to produce waves at any of the better spots in the area. Surfing this huge, exposed, sharkified beach break by myself every session way up in the north-country caused me a bit of consternation.. This beach was a bit like OB on steroids. Even the dainty 5ft 9sec windswell was frickin slammin and jammin and crackin' down on my noggin. I managed to slank into a slew of high-performance/hang-on-by-the-seat-of-my-pants racers.. popped a few lip-flicks off the close-out sections.. My parents (sitting on the beach) couldn't believe how far out i was.. my mom commented, "Ethan, i thought you would surely float out and be lost at sea!"..
but.. all in all.. little in the way of "epic ridiculous sickest ever sickness" was garnered by me on this trip..
on the first day i was there i watched the end of the south swell in the water peel and feather (strong offshores) into this semi-secret reef break.. only a few waves per set every 7 minutes or so but it was chugging along and peeling and beckoning and teasing and looking oh-so-scrumptious to this wave-starved slurfer.. but.. alas.. i was hiking with moms/sis/seymore and the ladies wanted to git a bit of lunch first.. by the time i got back to the spot (2 hours later) the tide had effectively killed the beautiful sets :(
soo.. hopefully we'll see a slackening of wind... at least enough to enable some niceness at OB with this windswell..
e
your's truly on a piddly little white-water ride
local spot enjoying the last south swell
WELCOME BACK BROTHA!!
i think i speak for everyone out there, was a looong work week w/o the mental reprieve your daily posts (along w/ commentary) brings!
Posted by: j at August 18, 2003 09:57 AMWelcome back e! You were certainly missed in both the local and electronic community while you were gone. Hopefully Mendo was at least gorgeous and mystical, if it wasn't surfy. Mmmmmm, redwoods.
I just got back from a solid sess... at the chiropractor. He thinks I might be able to get back in the water in 7-10 days... I wretched my back near my left shoulder surfing a week ago. Pretty random injury, a sore shoulder suddenly and painfully gave out while I was pushing up on my board, majorly straining my rhomboideus muscle and displacing several ribs and vertebrae in the ensuing free-for-all. Anyway, hopefully my bones are back in place now, and I just need a little more rest. Perhaps its time to start practicing some preventive yoga. Least there are no 'Canes on the horizon.
And YO KAISER, I'm glad Bali is coming up soon... but you know what comes before that!! Good luck on Hawaii brah, and big Congrats to you and... ;) Peace!
Posted by: jake at August 18, 2003 10:09 AMJake, thanks brotha-man! Appriciate the thoughts and shout out. Strange feelings running about right now. Some of complete happiness, some of complete chaos, some of utter disarray. Many levels of input to say the least...
E, welcome back. You didn't miss much 'round here.
Great Jack Johnson/Harper shows over the weekend. Anyone else out there feel that Harper played WAAAAAYYYYYYY to long and too mellow to open? More Jack, less Ben was my call. Just opinion and mood though.
Posted by: Kaiser at August 18, 2003 10:25 AMe, welcome back! can't wait to hear about your trip. anyone surf yesterday? surfed on saturday early. it looked horrible, but ended up being fun.
anybody have any recommendation for places to stay in kauai at the end of september?
kaiser you're stoked!
Posted by: lerm at August 18, 2003 11:02 AMwelcome back e. i surfed kelly's yesterday morning with my 13yo brother who was visiting. it was pretty fun until the wind killed it, headhigh on the sets and peaky. wrenched my neck pretty bad though, prolly out of the water for a week or so.
Posted by: bbr at August 18, 2003 11:17 AMWelcome home,e! :) Mendo week sounds like niceness.
Mid OB: Heavy onshore wind since this morning. Fog looks like it's here to stay. Choppy agua. Right now some windswell that sometimes gets up to 5 footish? height. A very scant crew out, battling the wind and with expert local knowledge picking occasional quick shoulders out of the mushy closeouts. Looks like a lotta work for those brief rides.
Question: speaking of closeouts, any of you ex Navy Seals know of/or where to look up exercises to increase one's breath-holding capacity? Besides running along the bottom of OB with a discarded car bumper. Thanks!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 18, 2003 11:23 AMlerm, kauai, I'm jealous, by september you may see some small kine north swell. resonable accomodations at the kauai sands in kapaa one of the last locally owned resorts on the island, not luxury.
Posted by: big mig at August 18, 2003 11:27 AMif you need a house check kauaibeachvacation.com or
http://www.kauai-beach-vacation-home.com
first, breath holding exercises are over-rated. A long OB hold-down is maybe 20 seconds at the most (try counting sometime).
To improve, practice. I especially like swimming laps underwater in a pool. First, swim one lap. Then, try to do 1.5. Then, 1.75, then 2, etc.
But do not use hyperventilation as an aid. Yes, it can help. But, a side-effect can be blacking out, and if you black-out underwater, you die.
Slurfed at pollutica Sunday, OB Sat, windswell for the UFO. The next generation should be done next weekend (new board for me). a 6'8", maybe someone else could try it (since no one else can ride the 6'3").
I predict an early fall, with swells starting inside of 2 weeks, warm water, and big surf in October. It's looking very much like the 97-98 weather pattern.
Posted by: blakestah at August 18, 2003 11:30 AMblakestah.. i like that prediction..
Posted by: e at August 18, 2003 12:09 PMSurfed Pacifica yesterday-it was ok.
Posted by: welle at August 18, 2003 12:20 PME, welcome back. Kaiser, Jack/Ben was SICK! Friday night Santana played with them, I went on Saturday. I felt Jack was too mellow, I felt like taking nap during his set. Ben rocked pretty hard I thought. I went to see Jack, and left stoked on Ben. Blakestah, I would love to try the UFO, I shot you an email about 3 weeks ago asking about it. Maybe I can take one down to San Diego if you're ready to start selling/leasing/loaning/co-financing.. I leave for San Diego in 3 weeks and want some crazy and fun boards to ride down there. You know, set myself aside from all the uniform snap/air riders. I'll be there for a year. Hopefully I'll come back a little more graceful and smooth :) Anyway. Monday Blues. Back to work with 6-10 year olds running chaos at school. out.
Posted by: Ian at August 18, 2003 01:13 PMThanks big mig!
Posted by: lerm at August 18, 2003 01:17 PMlerm -- i leave this Wed for a 10-day trip to Oahu/Kauai with my wife, our first visit to Hawaii. in Kauai will be staying in Haena & Poipu, found these spots after a lot of internet searching for affordable niceness, send me an email after Labor Day and I'll give more direct impressions ... Haena: http://www.kimosvacationrentals.com/yurt.htm Poipu: http://www.poipubeach.com/
anyone want to comment re: how easy it is to find the kind-b in Hawaii?
i was in Yachats, OR this past weekend for a wedding, there is definitely surf potential in that area, but the closest surfboard rental shop is 25 miles away, and i only brought my wetsuit, alas. they had a 9 feet tidal swing earlier last week, seemed other-worldly -- any of you scientific types know if that is common up there/why?
welcome back e ...
Posted by: loon at August 18, 2003 01:22 PMLoon, KB can be found but a bit more expensive then over here. Expect smaller offerings for more money.
I had a guy roll up on a scooter. He was my hook. I just asked around town in Hanelei and then this random guy showed up. Yellow scooter guy.
Posted by: Kaiser at August 18, 2003 02:24 PMI have a quick and random question. Anyone know if there is a good reason why winds die down at night and pick up in the afternoons?
Posted by: tucker at August 18, 2003 02:51 PMe...welcome back!
early fall sounds good...my fingers are crossed. Ordered a board from Mr. Schulze that should be done in about 3 weeks (hopefully). Can't wait to give it a go.
With respect to the holddowns, isn't it weird how it always seems like you are held down a lot longer than the reality??? Serious time dilation going on.
Posted by: jdz at August 18, 2003 02:58 PMthanks Kaiser!
tucker: here's a short answer for you --
During a summer day, the land is heated by the sun, and this heat is absorbed by the surrounding air. Once this air meets a particular temperature, it begins to rise quite rapidly. As a result, a low pressure area is created at ground level. The sea doesn't heat up as quickly as the land, so the air temperatue over the water is much less. As a result, this air is free to move sideways to occupy our new low pressure area. The result is a light to gale force wind which rushes in from the sea to fill the lower pressure area left by the hot air rising from the land. Seabreezes usually happen in spring and summer, when the difference in temperature between land and sea is greatest.
taken from this site
http://www.seabreeze.com.au/info/wind.asp
lots more out there about this ...
Posted by: loon at August 18, 2003 03:13 PMOr, put another way (with respect to buckminster fuller): it's because a wind doesn't blow, it sucks. i'm not just making a bad joke; winds are basically vacuums pulling cooler air to hotter places.
the harper/johnson show was excellent yesterday, too. mellow jack first followed by a rocking ben and then much gratitude from both. good, good stuff. better than pacifica on sunday and almost as good as my last/only wave on saturday at OB. i say almost because i'm *still* smiling...it was the fastest i've ever gone on a surfboard! woohoo!
Posted by: friendly at August 18, 2003 03:22 PMMid OB is the same story as this am, but smaller. Nobody out.
Blakestah - thanks fer breathe holding input ...I realize it's psychological issues, even a placebo will do..holddowns bug me, more than getting thrown about. In any case if you need any expert scientific data on how your 6'3" UFO pearls, lemme know. I can pearl anything ; )
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 18, 2003 04:21 PMloon,
i actually stumbled across the yurt place, but couldn't get a hold of anyone. that place is sick! good luck with da kine b. thanx for the info.
Posted by: lerm at August 18, 2003 04:23 PMahhh...so good to have the banter back! last week was a long, quiet one...just didn't seem right. though...i gotta give props to the end-of-string poetry submissions from caveman and jake. you cats got skill!
glad to hear that some of you heads have been scoring waves....though, jake and bbr...sorry to hear about the injuries. fast recovery fellas.
re the JJ/BH show...i thought that the individual performances were solid...and dug the "BH mom cameo"...but there seemed to be something missing. i don't know if it was me, too many distractions, or not enough rockers, but, in my book, the show didn't quite reach the hoped-for levels. Santana cameo on Friday must have been kind.
Posted by: ck at August 18, 2003 04:50 PMGlad to hear you had a nice family vacation Ethan...my sister and brother in law were in town during the flat spell after our south and it was nice.
Anyway......Got some boards for sale.
1)Pearson Arrow 6'6" Squash(13 nose, 20 wide, 14 1/2 tail 2 5/8 thick with a flat to vee bottom)FCS fins. Kind of an in between board. In between a "fish shape and a "shortboard" shape if you get my drift. Looking for $300 as board is "like new"
Also......
Ricky Carrol 7'8" Round Pin (10 5/8 nose, 19" wide, 12 1/2 tail)2 3/4 inches thick. Deck domed down to the rails to 2 1/2 inch. Naturally this is a flat to vee as well. FCS G6 fins. This is a steal for say $275.........especially if blakestahs early swells prediction comes true. Don't get caught undergunned.......
Posted by: tom at August 18, 2003 05:03 PMoh yeah.......for you west coasters....
Rick Carrol is a local legend from Satellite Beach, Florida and for many winters ghost shaped for Rawson's Local Motion line. This board is a Rawson gun template. He's been in business since 1980 and still shapes all the Local Motions sold on the east coast or did last I heard. So if it matters.....
Pearson? Who's Pearson? Well Bob Pearson..............
Posted by: tom at August 18, 2003 05:15 PMBlakestah,
Am I getting this right? Are you talking a "big" El Nino year (as was winter 97-98)? Just curious.
-d
Posted by: dano at August 18, 2003 07:10 PMhey tom,
what is your size and weight, and how do you ride? I am interested in your boards, but I do not know enough to judge them by their dimensions. Will you email me at gone2costarica@yahoo.com or call: (415)425-2864? peace.
Posted by: bird at August 18, 2003 07:59 PMhey tom,
what is your size and weight, and how do you ride? I am interested in your boards, but I do not know enough to judge them by their dimensions. Will you email me at gone2costarica@yahoo.com or call: (415)425-2864? peace.
Posted by: bird at August 18, 2003 08:00 PMI don't see this as a "big" El Nino year.
But it oughta be bigger and stormier than the last two. Earlier rains, earlier mackers. Both the N. Atlantic and Pacific are setting up a lot like 97/98 (only not as intense). The positioning of high/low pressure in summer has been unusual, the pattern of upwellings has been unusual, the wind in the city has been very weird. It looks like the Pacific high is going to regress this week (move west) and set up in a very nice Aleutian juice position. This generally doesn't happen until October.
We'll see in a few months if it's true or not - but it's been on my mind a bit so I thought I'd throw it out there. The last two years have been average or below average for swells before November - this year looks better.
Posted by: blakestah at August 18, 2003 09:30 PMi don't care about the swell as much as the wind. bring on those offshores we had all last fall, it was heaven!!!!
Posted by: bbr at August 18, 2003 10:20 PMBlakestah,
Thanks for the clarification! Welcome back e!
-d
Posted by: dano at August 19, 2003 06:53 AMWow noon and look at all the posts -- I can't even read them all. There has been some serious missing of E by everyone. Yo yo yo welcome back!
SSShark -- I 2nd what blakestah has to say about breath holding exercises -- specifically, I think the pool is the best place to do it, whilst swimming a lap underwater, since it makes you exert, and you probably exert some amount when you are getting worked. Also, I find panic is the killer and the way I fight the panic is to count -- you know -- like "one one thousand, two one thousand, three one thousand, ..." As blakestah points out, a hold down isn't all the long, so if you can convince yourself that you can outlast it, your halfway there. And counting always reminds me I am well under my limit. So like if you can count to 30 in the pool, you will be cool as a cucumber when you are at 14 in your hold down. During my longest hold downs I have only gotten to 18 or 20, and I admit I start to get nervous, but I also remember very clearly thinking "I can outlast this." It's the times I forget to count that I panic after like 8 seconds and come up sucking hard for air...
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