E's Surf Report: utility sesh

cruised the beach around 6:15.
Super-small at VFers (waist/chest).. very little wind. 2 guys out there gallivanting about. not really catching anything.. southward... Middle of the beach looking decidedly larger. I noticed quite a few interesting sandbars. Slightly overhead windswell walls dumping and detonating but also upchucking the occasional money section. nobody out throughout the middle. Something about the grey/daunting/sickly sky, the wild/tumultuous/unwieldy waves, the utter and total absence of other humans and the mysterious/gruesome recent pervasiveness of the man in grey kept my excitement about a solo session in the middle of the beach this morning in check.. ONward to sloat.. the SW wind more evident at Sliz.. 2 guys out in the shoulder/head-high waves.. Not too inviting but i donned the wetty and hit it.. As usual shit proved more fun once out in the water catching waves than it looked from the parking lot. Slightly crumbly/bumbly/disorganized, the waves would come in a bit mushy but then hit a shallow part of a sandbar and buckle and break and sometimes even peel! I caught 2 really good waves and about 6 or 7 "eh" ones in about an hour. First good one was a steep left ... pigdog takeoff.. let go of rail.. bottom turn then a semi-nice lip smack.. back to the bottom.. bottom turn.. then as the wave began to peter i used my remaining speed to carve into the face and then around into a weak little roundhouse bounce off the white-water. The other good wave was a right where i kind-of navigated some weird bumps and bubbles on the drop.. sort of doing a little pop-a-wheelie and leaning back to make it over a little bump (felt like jumping off a curb on your bicycle) then i just ferociously pumped like a screaming banshee down the line to stay ahead of the crashing/crumbling lip.. The wave bowled up nice as i headed down the line and it was invigorating to watch, feel and ride the meaty thickness of a "tasty" wave.

soo.. that's that..

the legendary Jersey-bomber Kus is coming into town this afternoon. if you see some scrappy guy pulling into unmakeable barrels tomorrow morning it's probably him..

schweet..

also.. i guess the brown turd is stalled somewhere in the shaping process.. i think that Geoff Rausche is super busy.. because i ordered it about 6 weeks ago and i haven't heard anything from him at all.. i called once about 3.5 weeks ago and he said that he hadn't started it yet.. soo.. that's the scoop.. i'm jonesing to ride it.. but.. don't know when it will be done??

thanks again everyone for hooking a brotha so hard!!!

wales

indo (pics by scott bass)

pigdog

hossegor