surprisingly good..
today was the kind of day where it pays to actually put your wetty on and paddle out, even though conditions look iffy from the car.
Again smallest at VFers, bigger at Sliz and biggest in the middle. Not much wind but the sea-surface struggled with a bit of morning sickness. I ended up surfing the middle with Da blakestah, Lermification and Kus. Shoulder/head-high waves (4ft 9sec on the SF buoy) would consistently lurch toward shore.. looking relatively calm and mellow.. and then jack up and hammer down on the shallow inside sandbars. There were some compromising rips and currents that made the inside section all weird, gurgly and imperfect. If you surf OB alot you know what i'm talking about. However!! the drops were steep and critical and really fun, imho.. Kus charged into a sizeable closeout barrel. I watched blakestah take off on some steep/meaty slabs on his UFO. Lerm also slanked into quite a few nuggety nuggies. The sea lions were taking off on waves and doing their neck-jerking/stare-down dance. It was tough to find sections that would allow for lip maneuvers and such, but it was easy to find heeps of pitching lips and gnarlesburg situations. the water was warm and the duck-dives were relatively infrequent. I'm smilin!
surfed a non-lindy break in P-town last night.. There looked to be close to 150 surfers in the water at Schmlindy. The south wind blew a mellow side-offshore and the small windswell offered up some impeccible/perfection longboardy waves. the water was ridiculously filthy.
schweeeet..
i'm currently reading the kelly slater (auto)biography "Pipe Dreams".. it's enjoyable.. though a little like eating candy.. he seems like a really cool guy. i wish he talked about the techniques of surfing more than the politics and scenes though.. i want to hear about his psychological tactics for learning and developing maneuvers... or detailed descriptions of deep pipe barrels.. or pamela anderson sessions!!!
peace be with you..
e
hossegor
that was a blast. got a few decent rides and a lot of closed out drops. didn't realize i was surfing next to blakstah and his ufo 'till late in the session. i wanted to check that ride out. arvo sesh?
Posted by: lerm at August 20, 2003 10:20 AME & Morning Crew, must have missed ya as I drove down the morning trail. Looked a bit choppy out at the OB locales and with the south winds a-blazin' for the 3rd morning in a row... I retreated southward. Checked a few 650 spots and not much happening but much cleaner then OB due to the winds (or lack of). Decided to roll to Lindy after 2 drive-bys. Clean, smooth waves. Dirty water. Got a few but it looked a hell of a lot better then it was. The waves were really backing off and not very rampy at all. The ones I did get into were some of the bigger waves as that was really all that I found rideable. Still a great morning though. Really calm, no vibe, no hassles (of course I didn't surf with the log crew either). Very strange "groundswell" type set-thing going on as well. Really infrequent and not your characteristic windswell waves. Blakestah, your radar picking any of that up?
E, on the Slates tip, he actually is working on material directly related to surfing and his technique and view of waves. He mentioned it during his book signing events.
Posted by: Kaiser at August 20, 2003 10:22 AMHeaded out this morning on the early side. No one out. Meaty lips rippled down the line. Hmmmm, took about 10 seconds to decide to paddle out. Once out, alone, I locked into a few. Mostly closeouts, but some offered meaty sections for the taking, especially if you were patient in wave selection. I landed a sweet off the lip in which I free-fell about 2 feet. There was a LOT of sealife out there, and I thought about sharks a little. A large dorsal fin appeared about 10 yards from me, and my heart raced. I freaked for a second, then I realized its rounded back and slow speed made it a dolphin.
the next 10-15 minutes all I thought about was sharks. Luckily, I snagged a few more good ones, and Lerm came out. I figured I could out-paddle him, so I stopped worrying. Lerm and I harvested plenty of decent waves. I didn't realize it was lerm until the others came. E and Kus showed up. The sets seemed to become less frequent and less well-formed. Dunno if Lerm felt the same way, but I was sure happy to have had that first hour. It was still good, but making it down the line seemed a lot less frequent, and those bigger sets came less frequently.
1:45 later, I left the water a happy camper. It was a delicious summer treat of windswell, unpredictably lifting up a foggy morning,
As for the arvo sesh, I cannot do it. I'm lucky for every session I can get in right now. As soon as I have the next UFO, I'll be happy to pass around the current one on week loaners so people can try and get used to it (assuming a 6'3" is reasonable for you).
Posted by: blakestah at August 20, 2003 10:24 AMKaiser, I think you are picking up longer than average period windswell. When you've been seeing 8 second period waves, 10-11 seconds seems pretty nice.
May be some real groundswell next week - Tues or Wed, won't know till this weekend.
Posted by: blakestah at August 20, 2003 10:28 AMMakes sense. I didn't see anything in the way of ANY south swell to speak of so that is the only thing it can be. Very strange effect it was having. The windswell "sets" were sparse but good when they were large enough.
Blakestah, I think there is a congratulations in order? Might be a little late or a little early on that but congrats irregardless.
Posted by: Kaiser at August 20, 2003 10:56 AMgreetings mornin' slurfers. funny how a pretty good but not so epic session for some of you guys can still share plenty of stoke for those of us stuck on dryland... but your detailed descriptions have given me a nice dose of ocean.
yo, check it, speaking of dosing on ocean, if you haven't seen this, there is some pretty cool video at: http://www.redbull5x.com
It's a (sponsored) new surf format that is definitely interesting... Anyway, the "Mexican Episode" with some headies from Santa Cruz (Pete Mel, Flea, Ruffo, Barney, and Repogle) is rad, lotta sick surfing. Haven't checked the SD Episode yet, but it's cool how the format encourages progressive surfing, and the streaming video is high quality.
and tonight is the real X-Games premiere of Surfing, after a little preview of The Game last night. X-Games are 9-11pm on ESPN2. Should be fun to see the competition... and a lot of pros could be in trouble with the ASP for doing this, so might as well check it out. Go East Side!! (Anybody want to place a "wager" on which coast wins? I'll give you odds on the West Coast).
Stay tuned for this and more "full media surfage". I leave tomorrow for Georgia... where I'll be hanging out, makin' trips into Florida or the Carolinas, or even the Gulf, as need be... officially on Hurricane Patrol for the next 3 weeks. Keep your fingers crossed! Enjoy NorCal... peace!
Posted by: jake at August 20, 2003 11:25 AMthe lane
the lane
mitchell's cove
Posted by: e at August 20, 2003 11:30 AMhttp://photos.surfline.com/
Posted by: e at August 20, 2003 11:31 AMCowells!!!!
Posted by: e at August 20, 2003 11:33 AMwarm??? i thought lindy was FREEZING this morning... maybe OB was a little warmer. and yes pollutica was living up to its name as the water literally stank... yuck. but a few fun ones were to be had, back on a shorter board i tried to fine-tune my bsotl skills on some little closeouts. a log would've been grand, esp. at N end of beach where it was less closed out & cleaning up a little bit when i left. in other news i went south to see bjork at the hollywood bowl and surfed malibu twice last week. micropeelers...sunny...cordless, 9'-0", trunks and a rashie - drifting about between the way outside of 1st pt, and a magic little uncrowded zone between 2nd & 3d. plus scored the primo beachfront-birthday-baywatch parking spot courtesy the kim bros, my lifeguard pals. post session beers & fish tacos at duke's. ahhhh.
Posted by: paul b at August 20, 2003 11:33 AMwelcome back e. see you all in the water...pb
thanks for the windswell info, blakestah and kaiser. i've been under the impression that windswell is *always* disorganized and tiny, which didn't fit on sunday at all and left me somewhat befuddled. so, as ever, thanks for the learnings.
for others who dig on geeky stuff, there's a good oceanography intro course at SFSU. here's the link:
http://geosci.sfsu.edu/courses/geol102/home.html
there are some cool maps of SFO's seafloor and the bay and tides and such. a nice place to start if you're just getting friendly with the ocean, or if you feel like real work is starting to make you stupid. :)
ps: that second mitchell's photo is sweet.
Posted by: friendly at August 20, 2003 11:44 AMOB: What e said, but at times it's looked almost Pollutica crowded..except for the talent factor! Sun almost out, wind coming up more, texture on the water and there's more closeouts w/the the low tide.
Dang all you surfers out there make it look so easy!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 20, 2003 11:50 AMShredded Aquatic Park again this morning.
I dig that first pic of the Lane. Beautiful...
Posted by: mwsf at August 20, 2003 12:05 PMI think I'll have an arvo DVD session today... maybe Indo. Yeah, Sunday was a bit unexpected. A little NW niceness semi-groundswell. We need more of that.
-d
Posted by: dano at August 20, 2003 12:29 PMchecked the entire beach this morning and it looked pretty bad. i'm surprised you guys found something to ride. i've surfed the SC pier like that pic on big days. soooo fun.
Posted by: bbr at August 20, 2003 12:34 PMyaa, welcome back E!! that picture of steamer lane at the top is pretty much the best surfing shot ive ever seen, maybe its just my dream set up..i have the photo that must have been taken just before that up on my desktop..i havent gotten sick of looking at it for like a week...some good shots on that board..i vaugly remember surfing for a little bit on i think sunday...anyone want to throw down some step into liquid reviews? how many hats?
Posted by: bagel at August 20, 2003 12:46 PMSTEP INTO...less narration. some of the footage was amazing, but, goodness, i wish he would have said less. in that way, it reminded me of a warren miller movie, circa 1991... the neat boxes that people got put in felt cliche, and i wish wish wish that someone would make a movie with the ladies and gents tearing up the same session. it drives me bonkers that women were pigeoned the same way midwestern and texan surfers were...like some sort of sideshow. that was crap. it's a different feeling, sure, but come on....
but laird and the malloy brothers and the cortes bank footage...there's another story...whoo hoo hoo.
Posted by: friendly at August 20, 2003 01:08 PMPosted this last weekend about Step Into Liquid. For the most part, I agree with friendly although I don't really mind the narration in Bruce/Dana Brown flicks.
Saw Step Into Liquid last night at the Embarcadero. Excellent flick. A bit hokey at times, a painfully bad soundtrack (in my opinion), but otherwise a great look at surfing. Seeing the Cortes Bank footage on the big screen was worth the price of admission alone. The Director of Photography and Daily Wavester were there last night for a Q & A and will be there today as well.
Posted by: mwsf at August 20, 2003 01:38 PMthanks everyone for the info on winds the other day.
Posted by: tucker at August 20, 2003 01:49 PMmwsf do you do the early swims at aquatic park? I've been going down there a lot recently when the winds are howling to get some water time.
Loved Liquid, want to see it again. Commentary - bah...footage....amazing!
Agree w/Friendly on the separation of women thang.. I'm of a mindset that thinks things should be more mixed up. As for what's happening *here* I understand single gender classes and and clubs are great for women who are uncertain, or have had trauma issues of their own and need space, ( I've worked w/women w/ those issues) but overall separating genders to me seems too patronizing. Seen the exact same thing in the comics/art world too. Maybe that makes me a bit of a traitor, but....of COURSE women can go surfing, what's the big deal?! ( Well, sometimes I can't haha )
That's my one and only gender rant, never to be repeated. I've always felt a little odd about women only surf clubs and movie footage and such..that's my 2 cents anyway.
Speaking of surfing, I'm off! Happy Wednesday folks...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 20, 2003 01:52 PMthx for the oceanography link friendly.
Posted by: cam at August 20, 2003 01:59 PMv cool site.
I always feel like I want to get more into reading the raw data & making more of my own predictions.
Stuff like...
the waves for today, may 12th are 1- 2 feet & we have heavy onshore winds.
the waves are mostly closed out lines with end sections that are "racey" & "semi-makeable on the inside". (code for "victory at sea baby")
The conditions should be best during the incoming & high tide later on this winter.
tucker -- Yep, I've been doing the early swims at Aquatic Park. Like you mention, it's good to get in the water when the surf is blown or flat. I'm doing a short race in Sept with my dad so I figured a bit of training might not be a bad thing too. Say hi if you see me down there--I'll be the only guy swimming in the park wearing an O'Neill wetty!
Cheers!
Posted by: mwsf at August 20, 2003 02:07 PMany pics of the UFO you guys talk about? deciding on my 1st shortboard, leaning toward a fishy shortboard from John at SF Surfshop. thanks
good waves at Lindy last night although it was crowded.
Posted by: gb at August 20, 2003 02:23 PMmwsf-that was me for a long time. only person down there wearing a surf hood with visor. not so aerodynamic. i just got into the open water swim races a few months ago. good way to stay fit. ill say hello if i see the oneill.
Posted by: tucker at August 20, 2003 02:42 PMThe UFO is, as of now, unidentified.
However, if you'd like one, talk to John, we can hook you up. I have no problem with more people riding the new system.
It is a new surfboard system. Riding it makes you feel
"like a chimp flying on the back of a dolphin."
John made a little twinzer fish recently, I highly recommend it, too.
Posted by: blakestah at August 20, 2003 02:44 PMmwsf, you will be the only swimmer in an o'neill - & i'll be the only one in a rip curl! is the "short race" in sept. the alcatraz swim (sharkfest)? i am doing that but have only been in aquatic park 2 or 3 times - most of my "training" has consisted of surf sessions...wondering if any other niceness folks will be out there (tucker?)? will be my first time...
Posted by: paul b at August 20, 2003 03:52 PMstep into liquid: have to echo the sentiment that the soundtrack was weak - good music is so key to a good surf flick (think jbrother / joel tudor "longer")...also why is everyone so keen to avoid the surfer stereotype (the final line is something like "and we don't say 'dude'" - and the main tag for the film says "no stunts, no stereotypes," etc)...I sort of see where some of this is coming from, but is it not OK for surfers to have their own language / identity? any thoughts?
I would like to do sharkfest if its still open. Did my first Alcatraz swim in June. There's a group that swims down in Aquatic park every Thursday night ran by a guy named pedro at south end rowing club. Its free and super helpful for navigating the bay currents so that you can get into aquatic park. (if you swim straight at it you miss) Helpful even if you only make it once before the race. I think it goes about 6 followed by dinner for those that want to hang around. cant make it anymore with new job, but used to go alot. anyways swimming from alcatraz is a cool experience, makes you feel pretty small. have fun.
Posted by: tucker at August 20, 2003 04:12 PMHope this isn't giving out too much info but,... it's very good to be living in Sonoma County right now.
cheers,...
Posted by: Jack at August 20, 2003 04:18 PMArvo sessions anyone? Looks pretty small out there from my office window in SSF. Might have to search and destroy. Well, maybe not destroy but glide anyway.
Posted by: Kaiser at August 20, 2003 04:26 PMI was flipping through the channels last night and caught Laird Hamilton on "The New Tom Green Show" on MTV. Didn't know how he'd handle the situation, but he was cool and really easy-going. At the end of the show he dropped a dead pig on a bunch of 5-foot vertical razor blades from up high. Rather odd.
Posted by: be at August 20, 2003 04:32 PMthat's the feeling I'm after.
i'll talk to John - thanks.
Posted by: gb at August 20, 2003 05:16 PMjust saw step into liquid i give it 5 hats (out of 10) no one has yet to make a really good surf documentary (that ive seen) defiately cool though on the big screen and those kids in ireland were cool...i wish i could surf now but cant...i bet some san mateo secret spot beetween linda mar and mavericks could be fun..the beach looks kinda fun too though..
Posted by: bagel at August 20, 2003 05:33 PMOh yeah - e, kus, blakestah, kaiser, lerm, super reggies.. if you're surfing in my neck o' the woods for goshes sake use the house hose if ya want! Tell my housemates you know me. Cheers,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 20, 2003 05:45 PMRight on, paul b! I'll keep an eye out for the guy in the Rip Curl. We're doing the Tiburon Mile in Sept rather than sharkfest.
Cheers!
Posted by: mwsf at August 21, 2003 01:02 AMword- big shout out to blakestah,lerm, and E for
Posted by: kus at August 21, 2003 09:16 AMnot chasin' a jersey boy out of the line-up yesterday...totally fun sharing the vibe with you
heads, and so nice to get a sample of O.B. D and I hit marin co. last night and found some clean, small guys coming through before sundown. We are now on our way northbound to coos bay, ore... so i'll try to buzz in with some stoke, if/when i score in the North.
-I got such a chill imagining the paddle out at O.B. when it gets big and gnarley...SICK!
kus
Hey, love the fotos n all. I am from the north east of England and my parents have just bought and moved to their new house in la selva. Got my tickets for december and cant wait to get over to sample some of your delights. Peace, east t west.
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