everything is there.. except the swell
Glassy, warm water, beautiful sky, no wind, not many surfers, friendly seals... and.. and... no waves! well.. there were a few vertically challenged waves coming through but all in all it's a good day to take your ol' granny out for a spin at OB. Robme and i surfed in the middle and did our best to stroke into the waist/shoulder-high dumpy micro-peelers flowing in. We each caught a handful.. It's so fricken nice to have glassy conditions at OB that i almost didn't even mind the absence of significant waves. The languid, oil-like glassiness translated directly into my state-of-mind. It worked to sooth and calm my anxious spirit. The feeling of paddling into and then taking off and gliding down the face of a smooth, flawless wedge of natural energy can't be beat.. even if the waves are only 24 inches high. I saw Paul B out there picking off a bunch of waves.. and also saw OB underground legend Alex Martins paddling out as i came in. Then as i came out of the water i noticed this gigantic sand castle that i somehow hadn't noticed before. It was probably 8 feet high and contained this dark, mysterious doorway.. i wandered up to it and poked my head inside the door. A wonderful aroma of freshly baked bread wafted up to me, and i heard what i thought was distant singing from far off.. What the funk?? I kind-of ventured into the doorway a little more and before i knew it i slipped and then started sliding down this long, wet slide of slimy seaweed. i grabbed and tugged and did everything in my power to stop the slide but to no avail.. in a few minutes i was dumped into this dark subterranean chamber. There was a dim light down this hall and the floor was sticky and gooey.. There was a resounding, rhythmic drumbeat echoing throughout.. I made my way toward the faint light and found that it was in fact a torch on the wall of this long hallway.. there were other torches lining the hall and an opening in the distance. It was obvious that the pounding percussive rhythm eminated from the opening at the end of the hall.. as i approached the pounding grew louder and i noticed shadows and flickering light dancing and moving inside the opening.. I reached the end of the hall and tentatively peered into the opening.. I looked from above down into a huge underground cave... giant!.. there was a raging bonfire in the middle of the floor and all these people dancing and groping and sweating and drumming around the bonfire. beautiful people.. I was way up above, far enough that the people below couldn't really see me.. i watched as the drumming got quicker and the dancing grew faster and more lascivious. the women were wrything and sweating, dancing ferociously and howling up into the air.. the cave echoed and pulsed with the thunderous screams and cacophonous drumbeat. Clothes were torn away and muscular, slick curvaceous bodies lept and gesticulated around the fire.. Suddenly all attention was directed toward the middle of the fire.. i watched in stunned amazement as some sort of spiritual essence began to take form above the bonfire. It seemed that somehow the flames themselves coalesced into this vaguely human-like form.. this flame-spirit began moving and gyrating to the rhythm of the drums and the dancers.. faster and faster.. harder and harder. My heart was racing and my whole body drenched with sweat as i watched this scene unfold.. i was still in my wetty and had my trusty green lantern surfboard with me!! Suddenly, shockingly, the visage of the flame-spirit looked directly up at me!!!! instantly all the naked dancers and drummers looked up at me too!!! Fuck!!! My instinct screamed to turn and run down the hall back to to slide and up to the safety of Ocean Beach but i was strangly transfixed and couldn't turn myself away.. The flame-spirit slowly shifted and began to change shape and extend itself up toward me.. As it extened from the bonfire it stretched and arced out toward me.. it began to take on the shape of a wave!! seriously!! in a few moments this giant, conical, stationary wave of flame extended out from about 5 feet in front of me 100 yards to the base of the cave and the circle of dancers. I knew what i had to do.. Without any forthought i grabbed my board and lept off my perch at the top of the cave.. I landed on the face of the wave of flame and began pumping and carving down the line.. at a 45 degree angle toward the ground.. the wave of flame began barrelling and breaking behind me and before i knew it i was standing strait up inside this gargantuan flame-barrel!! just standing there.. accellerating rapidly toward the huge bonfire below.. the music pumping like crazy.. the dancers were going wild below.. i was screaming at the top of my lungs as the flame licked and crackled all around.. everything rushing and melding, flying and erupting.. i was headed strait for the bonfire.. as it approached the barrel got super deep until all i could see was flame.. all i could here was the ever-present thunder of the drumbeat.. until.. until....
word!
Posted by: robme at August 22, 2003 10:46 AMdaaaaaaaaaaaamn! i gotta find me one of them sandcastles...thanks, e!
Posted by: friendly at August 22, 2003 10:52 AMdamn! i must've missed that sand castle on the way in. good to see you out there e. now i see the crazy animal activity you guys & gals have been talking about. fun but almost kind of freaky due to thoughts of el blanco. are those seals or sea lions we're seeing out there? i picked up my freshly repaired egg from alex (thanks bertrand for the tip. i highly recommend this guy to others: soul guy, timely service, quality work, reasonable $ - kind of a holistic approach to ding repair, he pretty much buffs out your whole board the best he can). was the right board to have for today's measly but fun conditions...now, is dingrepair alex the same as underground legend alex? 'cause i saw the alex i'd just gotten my board from paddling out, & he definitely rips too...
Posted by: paul b at August 22, 2003 10:55 AMwow! I shoulda went out at the middle of the beach! Found a nice sand bar near the north side. Got a few nice shoulder high gliders.
i heard through the grape vine that there was a landlord siting yesterday around moraga. i'm generally skeptical about these. e and i saw a ton of dolphins out yesterday at the south end of ob. apparently, it was around 12+ ft. anybody out there in niceness land out there yesterday?
Posted by: lerm at August 22, 2003 10:58 AMUnderground Alex, dingrepair Alex, SanFranPsycho Alex, Brazilian Alex.
Anyway you slice it, he rips.
Note: he is different from Aqua Surf Shop Alex.
Posted by: blakestah at August 22, 2003 11:04 AMe - I really love your writing. It's a kind gift to all of us. Many thanks for the smiles and visions!
Posted by: Jack at August 22, 2003 11:26 AM
Posted by: e at August 22, 2003 11:30 AMthanks jack! thanks for the stoke!
Posted by: e at August 22, 2003 11:30 AMthat is the finest thing i've read i a long while. e, you've got a twisted inner creativity....in a very good way. i don't know about the rest of you heads, but any hopes that i had of productivity today are now completely shot!...lost in a swirling mass of fire, sweat, and fluidity.
re el blanco...a buddy of mine was out yesterday early evening and saw several very large dorsals that, at first, caused him some nervousness, but then turned out to be friendlies.
Posted by: ck at August 22, 2003 11:34 AMblakestah, are you talking about alex schaffer from aqua? he's one cool mofo. by far the best bodyboarder in san francisco. heard he's got some pretty crazy artwork too.
don't forget about "bbr alex", hehe.
looks like some decent pulses from the south tomorrow with minimal winds, it's about time we get a little lovin'. seeing belle & sebastian w/ bright eyes tonight in berkeley, should be a pretty good show.
Posted by: bbr at August 22, 2003 11:38 AMMy favorite "e" blog ever. Nice work.
Posted by: blakestah at August 22, 2003 11:38 AMe, Fun stuff! Thanks. Blazing waves, waves of fire - hmmm ... could be an inspiration for some skin-ink.
Posted by: Jimmie at August 22, 2003 11:57 AMI just drove past the beach on a work related errand and the smoothness persists! No waves really, but still ... invitingly glassy.
I'mma try 'n' git sum later!
I'm gonna toss this out here from shear desperation - I'm trying every avenue I can think of. My son, Max, is trying - with much frustration - to find a room in Santa Cruz for next semster; he'll be going to Cabrillo College and needs a place to live. Any help? Thanks, y'all!
OBeeeee: micro micro.... Even smaller than an hour ago...maybe that'll change..but it's a great beginner day. Wind has textured the surface since this am, but it's not too blowy. Really not that much to catch but it's a great day to spend bein' mellow in the sea. Really nice fun group of peeps in the water. I was out for almost 2 1/2 hours. Saw leaping seal pods, pelicans, various fishes, nearly stuck my hand right into some jellies. Reminders about Mr. Sharky. Lots of waiting rewarded by fun lil' peelers...before the breeze hit it some fun sets came 2/3 through the sesh. A bit foggy but warm. Much less folks out now 'cuz what conditions there were have deteriorated...
Finally got a ride where I caught that gliding-down-the-face-standing-up-on-the-new-board. Hooray!
Nice post e..:)
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 22, 2003 12:08 PMDon't forget about the closing party for the Surf Style exhibit at 111 Minna tonight. Should be a good time - especially with the Phantom Surfers playing.
"Featuring the The Phantom Surfers, Captain Dave, Kiwi Steen of the Steen, and Dave DJ show. There's a vanload of Japanese surfers driving up from San Clemente and a bunch of legendary San Diego rippers flying into town for the closing gig. Expect a great party with gear and clothing giveaways, surf legends & pro’s, surf projections, mixed up art, etc. 7 P.M. doors. 10:30 P.M. first set. $10 cover. Portion of art sales goes to the SF Chapter of Surfrider Foundation."
http://www.surfstyle.org/
Posted by: caveman at August 22, 2003 12:25 PMthere are times in life where I am reminded how incredibly creative people can be...and how utterly un-creative I am...thankfully all I have to do is read this blog on a daily basis for a dose of unrestrained, unabashed creativity.
Nice work e.
Posted by: jdz at August 22, 2003 12:41 PMAlex Petrovich owns Aqua Surf Shop.
Alex Schaffer is a pretty decent sponge you will see on a lot of big days if you are out there.
bbr is also an Alex.
But Alex Martins is the ding-repair underground-legend Brazilian surf-master.
BTW, he looks a lot like Christian...
Posted by: blakestah at August 22, 2003 12:52 PMThree months of stoke in central america was followed by a rough trip back for my boards. Could someone please post or e-mail me alex martins' contact info?
Posted by: tubos at August 22, 2003 01:08 PMalex martins number (dingrepair, underground ripper)
699-2380
he lives out on 45th..
i'll put his number as a permanent bit of info on the site..
Posted by: e at August 22, 2003 01:38 PMhey e, are you also saying that the entrance to "The Matrix Reloaded" city of Zion is located right outside my house? Cool! ;)
PS OB same as earlier, fog burned off
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 22, 2003 01:48 PMFrom a well known surf site.
"In case anyone was still concerned about the buried whale at OB, the California Academy of Sciences and the California Department of Fish and Game have assured the folks at the GGNRA that "burying the whale at Ocean Beach is not a threat to public safety." All righty, then. "
Posted by: lerm at August 22, 2003 01:49 PMWOW, that is one hell of a sand castle. The irony is the fact I was just listening to a very familiar Jimi Hendrix tune about "sand castles wash into the sea EEVVVVEEEEENNNTTTUULLLLAAYY" and then I read E's post! I think you made a call to the gods and of course Jimi showed up with a joint and his guitar. Nice work. Maybe he is doing a set @ the Beach Chalet tonight. One would hope anyway....
According to linkage from Blakestah.com, there appears to be something in the way of some 17 sec. juice checking in. Hmmmm, that can only mean groundswellage!!!! Think it hit SC earlier today... Dano... Dano??? Dano!!! Whatcha got for us...
Making the SC trek manana for some olas y coffey. Not the liquid juice but the board kind. Any Niceness rolling out?
Posted by: Kaiser at August 22, 2003 02:15 PMThis south is coming from a steep angle - 180 deg or even east of that. Should be a 2 footer.
Pick a REALLY exposed spot.
Posted by: blakestah at August 22, 2003 03:02 PMmaybe the south swell will look like this
Posted by: e at August 22, 2003 03:07 PMwent out late AM down here in san mateo.
buoy read 2.2ft @ 18seconds from 185.
it seemed to fade toward the end, but i got about an hour and a half of surf in. waist/chest high down here, clean but with a lot of south wind adding a little texture.
tons of sea life. saw a gull peck a starfish right out of the shore dribble and carry it back up the beach for a snack. paddled through a small group of grapefruit-to-soccer-ball sized jellies.
anyway, lots of fun out there -- sun, groundswell, not too many bodies in the water. waves shutting down pretty fast, but offering enough of a section to crank a quick bottom-turn/top-turn combo. blew it a couple times and landed right on my ass/back in 2ft of water -- ow. was getting a bit mushy as i left -- tide's coming back up.
last sunday i saw a sea lion fully breach on the north end, about 10 feet away.. close enough to see a little red wildlife id tag stuck on it. cleared the water by a good three feet. do they breach for fun or only when being chased? either way, i got the hell outta there.
Posted by: grant at August 22, 2003 03:14 PMI wasn't going to mention it, because I wasn't 100% sure of the species, but a rather large dorsal fin caused me and another guy to paddle in from Taraval last night at around 6:45pm. By the way it moved, it was probably just a big dolphin, but it was getting late, and neither of us was sure.
Posted by: adam at August 22, 2003 03:27 PMsydney bombie
Posted by: e at August 22, 2003 04:00 PM
Posted by: e at August 22, 2003 04:22 PMi thought i saw some creepy thing out by one of the rocks this morning around 8:15 but just dismissed it for birds and a seal..got actually really fun small waves on my last 2 long lunches out at CH's..today alot cleaner and funnerer than yesterday..got some 2 days in a row with 8 west...super nice out there today aroung lunch..fast rampy little ones.. one guy in a blue wetsuit was killing it
Posted by: bagel at August 22, 2003 04:27 PMConfirmed... a small, steep south is in the water.
-dano
Posted by: dano at August 22, 2003 05:05 PMhaha.. jdz, your creativity comment had me rollin man! I scored some really fun surf (given the conditions) with Amy 2 days ago at lindy. I'm off for the next 3 weeks! I'm gunna try and get my ass out there veery day! E, that was some schweet shiz. What kind of visuals were you on when you wrote that? ;) Anyway, I know where I'm going tomorrow! Every one have a great weekend!
Posted by: Ian at August 22, 2003 07:13 PMit's late....i'm drunk...but I did have the pleasure of enjoying a little southern pulse in the late afternoon at the spot I like to cal norc. Some good fun, very blue skies, and very beautiful tableu. Hope you all get some manana...I will be hungover....so on less kook in the h2o.
peace
Posted by: jdz at August 22, 2003 11:54 PMrobme, christian, and lerm, had a great time today, glad you all got to check out the latest UFO. Looking forward to doing that again.
Everyone caught waves on the UFO (except me - I didn't even get to ride it). Robme landed an airdrop, Christian bashed the lip, Lerm caught a few (but yearned for more facetime). It did wonders for my motivation in this little project.
Next one will be done "next Thursday for sure".
Hasta la vista.
Posted by: blakestah at August 23, 2003 04:59 PMBlackstah,
Only 7 more days!! Sounds like the crew had some fun on the UFO. I scored some nice, tiny waves today in the sun... just lovely.
-d
Posted by: dano at August 24, 2003 02:52 PMjust caught e's flaming barrel wave... stoked!
Posted by: jake at August 24, 2003 09:28 PMI just found a green lantern surf board aprox. 7' thick gun shaped.
Does anyone have any info on this board???
Thanks
Tod
Posted by: Tod at March 15, 2004 05:36 PMthe swell was 10ft south as it gets costa style spouth of banco kirsten neil in white panties lace up sandals and a new marbella what a blast,...shes the hottest surfer girl here,,originaly from imprial beach....check it
Posted by: hoggysurfer at April 8, 2004 08:25 PMthe swell was 10ft south as it gets costa style spouth of banco kirsten neil in white panties lace up sandals and a new marbella what a blast,...shes the hottest surfer girl here,,originaly from imprial beach....check it
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