ugly... but.. waves..
OB ugly.. cruised south with Lerm.. Spots down there looking ugly.. brown.. churned... trashy.. grey... sloppy.. gross.. Ended up at the Smoke-out spot.. you know that spot.. Smock-A-Flay.. The wind was blowing somethin' fierce at OB... out of the WSW... pretty much dead onshore. Wouldn't ya know it was blowin onshore down in P-town too.. Lindy looked ok.. surfable.. about 10 surfers strewn about.. crumbly, low-tide waves flicking in and squirting here and there.. utlility session possibilities.. The swell seemed to have diminished in size from yesterday.. biggest waves at Smoke-a-J probably about head-high.. all of which closed out.. anything over shoulder high formed up into a thunderous wall of closeout symmetry.. all the tangential energy vectors of the wave somehow conspired together at the last second and agreed to all break at once.. like.. all the little parts of the wave probably communicated with each other as they approached the beach.. they saw Lerm and i sitting there.. drooling over the tapering overhead wave coming our way.. then they all shouted together.. "OK.. we don't want those pesky surfers to ride us.. let's all get together now and lurch up and break all at the same time.. one.. two.. three.. CRASH!!"... or.. something.. soo.. Lerm and i were stuck riding the medium sized guys when they came through.. The waves at S-A-J seem to have a way of starting to break.. then backing off.. so you have to pump just to stay with the wave.. then they'll give you a millisecond of steepening open face which will get your hopes up.. then they'll suck up and close-out violently.. Then on your way back out from a small little slightly satisfying ride you'll be forced to duck dive through 8 or 9 of the dirtiest, trash-strewn, dumping, fuck-you closeouts right on your head.. then you'll get back outside and the ocean will shut down for while.. There was a friggin dirty diaper floating around in the lineup with us!!! The water in Pollutica is so disgusting right now.. but.. nevertheless.. we still had a blast and it was great to be the only two surfers out there.. I caught a few little pumping rights and a handful of little lefts where i got to work on my backside bottom turn into off-the-top combos.. sort-of..
anyhooo.. awww yeah.. sort-of..
anybody score good times this morning?
it seems that Matt-yellow-board is bummed on the niceness scene.. what can we do to cheer this cat up? The dude is a great surfer and it would be a shame to bum him out..
"Damm, this used to be a chill group of core surfers sharing experiences of the SF surf scene, not sure what it is now. Good on you E for starting it, but I have to say...it's pretty out of control now. When I see a group of surfers ditching boards and coming in hoards to one peak at OB (helmets, gloves, and funboards in tow)..i now gruble.."fuck the niceness" to myself, and paddle down the beach. sorry to be a downer....can't wait for the first solid swell to come "clean up the beach" - former nice guy - matt"
couple of nice indo pics...
Kudos y'all for getting in. Dirty diaper...!?!
Posted by: robme at August 28, 2003 11:08 AMI had a decent bike ride downtown to work, onshores at my back.
nice on the.. waves? I may try and get out this afternoon and play in the wind. Matt, just be stoked you get to surf! It can be disenchanting at times, but remember there are those who aren't as lucky as us. Anyone like the group Pepper? They're playing in Santa Cruz today. If you don't know who they are, they're kinda dub/reggae/rock similar to sublime. http://www.pepperlive.com/
Posted by: Ian at August 28, 2003 11:23 AMDon't fret Matt. It happens every summer. Although the last few seem worse. A big ground swell with some extra long hold-downs gets rid of the kooks til the next summer session.
Posted by: Dennis at August 28, 2003 11:24 AMno worries Matt...the crowds are worse than the norm 'cause the warm water, clean waves and small size...One solid North swell and the part-timers will be washed away for 6 months.
I think this could be an opportunity to set some things straight...
if you are learning- goto Linda Mar or Cowells..if it is a small day at OB- paddle out...but with respect...in my opinion, if you are a beginner, do NOT paddle out into a crowd or even where a few guys are out...you do not need to surf the best waves on the beach until you know what to do with them...most of the time any of the waves throughout OB will be enough for you to learn what you need to learn. (think of it this way- you don't ride DOoble Black Diamonds 'til you are ready when boarding)
I can't count how many times I've been out in the water and you see some beginner paddling out right where you are- I know these things happen- and when all the peaks are filled- you expect it...but I think often beginners have no idea what good waves are until they see someone surfing them and they paddle out into them. ANd then start dropping in and not looking down the line...LOOK LOOK LOOK!
I've been surfing for 15 years and still won't paddle out to where guys are ripping unless it's perfect or crowded everywhere else too. I respect people that are learning how to surf but they also need to respect those people that have already put their time in. I have buddies that are beginners, so when I paddle with them- I go to less prominant places...how rediculous is it for a newbie to be out at Steamers? They deserve abuse...I don't play baseball at Pac Bell...cause I suck...
I think here at Niceness- that is accomplished...both ways. Learned surfers are reminded that they were beginners once too and beginners respect the people that have put their time in already.
Posted by: monkeywrench at August 28, 2003 11:37 AMI have to agree with yellow board Matt for the most part. The problem is that this site is positive with regard to surfing and the conditions here that it amounts to non-stop promotion of surfing. The constant barage of "never stop surfing" "hardcore" "surf no matter what" messages that have a definite corporate stink to them, likely are somewhat effective in making people go surf more and talk about the virtues of surfing more with others who might never have thought of going surfing. I love the pleasant attitude about e's site and it really is what surfing should be about all the time but I guess the problem is that everyone who has a computer can be a part of something extremely limited. I suspect this site really does lead to some increase in crowds but the truth is that it probably does more good in promoting a less "shred and destroy", super badd-ass, beat the crap out of anyone you don't know Santa Cruz attitude and usually reminds people that it is just for fun, not some all-encompassing, spiritual enlightening crap. I think of that cheese-ball line in Point Break where the surf shop kid and the main chick say something like "Surfing's the source man, it'll change your life" which can be true but there is no need to advertise that. People who feel that way already know and those who don't really don't need to be marketed to anymore than they already are. Your site is still great E.
Posted by: cbarney at August 28, 2003 11:41 AMI posted this earlier...thought I'd put it here:
Hey matt - I may be wrong, but I don't think this site is causing crowds or kookiness at OB. I'm not saying the crowds aren't bad at times.
I've been paddling out at OB since 1989 (14-years) and I'd say the crowds were worse 2-years ago than now (or at least they were just as bad then).
Surfing is pretty damn popular no matter how you slice it.
Further, if I squint my eyes and scroll through the posts over the days and weeks I'd say the "core" group is still not that big ...maybe 20 people (30 max). Hell, I can recall a couple years ago on a small (head-high) glassy fall day (saturday) at OB and seeing 10-20 people each at 6-different peaks from Noriega to Taraval.
You're right though,...add a solid groundswell in there and it thins things right out.
2-cents (ching!)
Posted by: Jack at August 28, 2003 11:42 AMwow..went boogie boarding with a buddy at Lincoln around 6. I was fun for a while, but then it got a little scary. the windswell seemed to be picking up and MAN did it seem dark and spooky out back. Buck Nasty stuff! Saw one surfer paddle out near us but he didn't last very long. we ended up being the only two guys crazy enough to paddle out. we'll have another session tonight at sloat and see if we have a little better luck
Posted by: scott at August 28, 2003 11:55 AMmatt, you live in a city called san francisco in the year 2003
Posted by: bagel at August 28, 2003 12:06 PM
Posted by: one at August 28, 2003 12:08 PMbagel - AMEN! classic retort.
btw, tried to find that gallery yesterday, 2223 union at fillmore? what's it called?
i don't know about you guys, but nothing cheers me up better than buying a round of beers for my surfing buddies. fortunately i'm in a good mood lately so i won't be buying...
the bright side of the crowds: as more money is funnelled into the surf industry the companies have more money to R&D with, thus eventually bringing better product to you. look at wetsuits over the past 10 years. look at the 'green' methods that they are looking into for board glassing. see, every cloud has a silver lining.
buuuuuut, as bagel said, it's SF, it's 2003. i hear alaska gets good swell.
Posted by: j at August 28, 2003 12:18 PMi'll take a few of these please
Posted by: e at August 28, 2003 12:22 PMword, i dont want to bum any one out...its just that to blame e for the crowds in sf is proposterous(sp)..
Posted by: bagel at August 28, 2003 12:46 PMI respect Matt and his thoughts on the crowds. I think he has a legitimate beef, problem is that there is no one thing to blame except the majic of the stoke. Everyone comes to surfing with different conceptions about what it is, but until you get your first ride you are either hooked or not. And if they get hooked, we are all f'ed. If someone is willing to get in the lineup that is their right (USA??). We all want less surfers in the water but we all had to start at some point. How can we look down on the new surfers when that was us 6 months, years, or decades ago.
Think about all time that is spent just for the few moments that you are actually riding the waves. It is absurd. There is so much time, energy, and money spent trying to score good waves that is ridiculous. If all the effort and ingenuity that is spent in the search for waves was redirected towards something "productive" can you imagine what would be accomplished? It is a bitch of sport, I wish it wasn't, but I have not found anything that compares.
Now with regard to surfers endangering other surfers safety and experience by acting like kooks (ditching boards w/out checking behind them, sitting in the way, paddling in your way to avoid the white water as you surf a wave, dropping in, not knowing how to control their boards), I think everyone has a responsibility to say something when we see this behavior. Tell them it is uncool and dangerous.
Anyway, looks like we are sorta screwed on waves for the next few days/months so everyone forget about surfing the beach for the next 2 seasons...See you all in April.
Posted by: A part time surfer... at August 28, 2003 12:47 PMre. crowds
Posted by: cam at August 28, 2003 12:57 PMI think the best thing you can do is lead by example.
When I see a bunch of guys on a takeoff spot I try to stay away unless that's all that's working.
I hate those guys who just hog every wave, so I don't do that.
If you try to keep a good vibe in the water & let less experienced people know what's up in the most rational way you can, it seems you can't help but improve the situ in the water.
When I used to surf at lindy there was this long haired hawaiian looking kid who i'd always see out, he always let everybody go, but somehow he always sneaked into the best sets...
Maybe I'm deluded but I don't have the feeling that fulll on assholes frequent this site much, it's a little touchy-feely for that. I do think that it has influenced crowding @ some breaks, but adding a crowd is different than packing a place with barneys.
Also, maybe I'm lucky but I've yet to be snaked by a real unrepentant dick (tho I tend to stay away from those localised point breaks & barney mush breaks) & beginners are not even gonna be around once it get's past the shoulder high range.
The bottom line is, if you don't like crowds (which I pretty much don't, tho I'm not bitter!), there's a lot of places that break where you rarely or never see people surf at all...
That is, as long as we don't name them on the site all the time ;)
Damn...check me out...must've put my positivity hat on today
wait a minute, searching for waves isnt "productive"?
ok thats enough out of me for at least a week
Posted by: bagel at August 28, 2003 12:58 PMwerd... this isn't surf related.. but.. anyone want to jam after work?
i be needin' to get the funk down.. ya know what i'm sayin..
Posted by: e at August 28, 2003 01:24 PMMatt relax, listen to "Bagel" -- see that over your shoulder? CITY. BAY AREA. 8 million people. Move to Del Norte if you don't like it, otherwise SHUT UP and get a sense of perspective. All whiners can suck it, you own NOTHING in the ocean and nobody owes you a damn thing.
Disrespectfully submitted by your good pal,
iHu
Posted by: iHuman at August 28, 2003 01:37 PMProbably said this before, but I'd like to thank e for this site...was running out to the water anyway, but my none of my other pals are interested in surfing. This has been a great resource for surf yak and other peeps to splash around with. Also shoutout to friendly, bon, and later nate and cam (?) catching brief, lumpy waves at OB this am. Ridiculous conditions, but enough little fickle peaks. Just had to try not to drift too far south into the other crew.
With a couple of exceptions when the vibe was sharky, ( and then I just asked if I could hang around ) or meeting some folks, I try to find my own spot off the side. Just trying to have some manners and reasonable safety. Have been SUPER stoked because twice in row found different spots all to myself, or myself and maybe one boogy boarder. Hooray! Not The Best Peaks by any means, but there's that self-satisfied, righteous feeling of discovery. I'm still stoked and patting myself on the back because usually I suck at reading waves. Frankly I pity anyone who paddles out to me, because I'm usually that person waiting around in the s*** spot!
Scuze the babble but I'm still stoked. OB is a great teacher when one is respectful and ready for the lessons ;)
Cheers!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 28, 2003 01:39 PMWow. I am usually a silent observer but I had to chime in with my 2 cents. My first wave was about a year and a half ago, and I have come a long way in that time, but by no means do I shred. So in some sense of the word I am a newbie. I see some of y'all dawn patrollers out and try never to paddle out and share a peak, and if I do I sit outside and pick off the stragglers. I always feel that I can learn by watching those who are better. I have to agree that crowd do suck, but that is the nature of everything we do it is 2003, and by no means does a single site contribute to the #'s in the line up. I check the site b/c it is great to see a group of people that are always so stoaked. Shit it makes me feel good to read all the posts and the feedback. You have to take the good with the bad, like with everything in life. Keep on rockin!
Question: Spider crack & small dings
Posted by: MJS at August 28, 2003 01:42 PMAny suggestions on how to repair? I sanded and put a coat of resin on it but not sure if that will solve the problem.
Thanks again all of you!
show your face in Del Norte and we're breaking fins and slashing tires and maybe even some faces.
Disrespectfully yours,
The Del Norte Dirty Underwear Gang
Posted by: rabidlocals at August 28, 2003 01:43 PMoh yeah....where is Del Norte? Is that a right or a left?
Posted by: rabidlocals at August 28, 2003 01:45 PMholy crap...this horse has been beaten to death! can't just end it with bagels first post and move on? The only thing gettin me down these days is seeing posts about how people are getting down on the stoke of e's report. wtf?
Posted by: jdz at August 28, 2003 01:47 PMIt's ummm...."Norte", and no stank diapers in the line-up there either.
Posted by: iHuman at August 28, 2003 01:49 PMiHu
jdz - word
let's bury this whale and hope the sharks go away.
Posted by: j at August 28, 2003 03:09 PMthere were some good people, no diapers, and a whole gaggle of seals bouncing about in the northern OB waters this morning. i was tired as heeeeeellll, but out with one of the amigos who has encouraged my own learning. being in the water with him reminded me how much i love shared sessions. it was cool to see nate, cam and ss again, too. (ck, you shoulda suited up!)
if that doesn't turn the tide of today's discussion...well, the moon will.
(look for mars, kids!)
Posted by: friendly at August 28, 2003 03:20 PM
Posted by: e at August 28, 2003 03:21 PM
Posted by: e at August 28, 2003 03:24 PMIt's all my fault. For the past 5 weeks and six days I've been dry due to shoulder tendonitis. On Tuesday, the physical therapist said it would be OK to go back in the water for a trial surf. Killer I thought to myself. It's been small and clean and glassy most of the time I've been laid up. Now that I can test out my shoulder, it's wind surfing weather. My deepest appologies to all.
Posted by: Dennis at August 28, 2003 03:42 PMha ha... i think it's time to play a little tackle-football with Dennis!! I have this 250lb friend named Juice that plays for Oregon.. he likes to hit hard.. he'll be guarding you Dennis.. ha ha.. bring on the waves!!
Posted by: e at August 28, 2003 03:46 PMAs long as I land on my left side when tackled, it's kool.
Posted by: Dennis at August 28, 2003 05:36 PMpic #2... Rocky Lefts?
Posted by: bertrand at August 28, 2003 06:06 PMGot Lindy this evening. Super fun wind chop slop rolling through! Made new friends in the water. One their names is Mannie. He shapes little fishes and they're SICK! He was rockin a 5'5" 4-fin. the site is www.mandalacustomshapes.com no content yet. It's still under construction but he has an email on there. I got one of the most memorable waves at lindy tonight, and the conditions were way crappy, but there were definately fun waves out there! 3 weeks and counting till my departure to San Diego. And I'm not trying to pick fights, but the niceness site does not make people surf. Saying E's site makes people go surf is a fallacy of causation. Nothing you say or do can cause or make anyone do something. I heard Mavs is a good place to learn?
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