narst..
fumbly bumbly jumbly and crumbly..
not much to get excited about at OB this morning.
the pine tree in my yard was shimmying this way and that so i knew the winds were up.. I skated down just to check it at around 6:30 and as i walked over the great highway the wind started howling in my ears. If you're feelin' the super/crazy/whack/mega jones you could probably score a session. but.. it's even white-cappy out there. borderline victory-at-sea.. I did notice a slight increase in wave size from yesterday morning.. soo.. if the winds abate tonight we might be smilin' tomorrow... but.. who knows.. blakestah predicts indian summer/offshore winds for thursday and into the weekend.. soo.. that should be schweeet.. you might drive the coast and find a little pocketed protection and score some waves?? or maybe just bust out that ol' journal you haven't written in in a while.. or maybe it's time to finally learn how to tie a knot in a cherry stem with your tongue..
anyone care to relate their best wave ever? (or at least one of)
one of mine was at Lakey Peak in Sumbawa.. We knew it would be crowded the next morning because the swell was rising and the winds were totally calm. A friend and i woke up about an hour before sunrise and paddled/walked across the reef to get out to the wave before sun-up. Just as it was barely light enough to see we started paddling out.. there were actually already two people out there. it was grey and slightly misty and cool. We were paddling out through the channel (Lakey Peak is a reef-break A-frame with channels on both sides) and we could barely see this big set approaching.. one of the guys already out takes the first wave.. i'm paddling by him as he gets totally, completely pitted within this crystalline, uber-glassy utterly-Indo sparkling barrel. You could feel and hear it roar past.. everything else was quiet.. i keep paddling.. faster now because i'm close to the lineup and might pick off a set wave before the crowds decend.. The other guy out, a sponger, takes off on the second wave and stuffs himself back into this mean, gnarled, groaning bestial barrel and just gets eaten up... At this point i'm approaching the lineup and there is nobody else out there.. the third wave of the set is big... and for me... Total, utter, complete, shellacked glass.. a few feet overhead.. i don't even sit-up on my board.. just keep paddling in a 180 and start to dig and stroke into the wave.. i stand up and pig-dog/slide down the face.. i'm pig-dogging and firing down the line when from behind/above me... the lip and barrel begin to engulf me from behind.. I witness the telescoping effect of the barrel fly over me... i'm fucking in there for a second and i see my friend pumping his fist from the channel! then the telescope recedes and i'm out on the face.. i carve a turn into the glassy canvas and then kick-out.. absolutely shivering and quivering with adrelenine and energy.. I look to my friend and he says, "you just got completely pitted, mate, good 'on ya!" .... Soon the crowds decending and it was time to get out and walk the 40 minutes to periscopes.. for dream session number two... hmmmm...
soo.. if you feel like it.. let's hear about one of your best waves..
this is kind-of what it looked like in the early morning hours.. this pic is actually of lakey peak
slates at lowers
Lakey Peak rules- nice- I'm going same country but......Desert Point...1st, last and only time I'll ever get 5 second barrels.
Posted by: toby at September 9, 2003 12:05 PMyeah assignments from E!
OB kelly's...about a year after i moved to the neighborhood around 96/97..had some friends visiting from down south. one of those kind of windy disorgnanized days but a day that if everything comes together for you, you can get a good one..took off on this nice overhead right (im regular)..for some reason kelly's seemed more pointish back then (at least this day). and since it was kind of stormy no one was out of course..(again, aaah the good old days). ok, so kind of a flatish take off on this overhead right, a few pumps a little mini cutback turn into this section in front of me that was starting to double up...the bottom really drops out as i drop into it and i see the lip about to throw..with the little speed i had i was able to turn up onto the face a bit as the lip pitched..i had to pull in, so my back knee goes down as i croutch and put my weight on my front foot, all the sudden im in this dark grey screaming pit..seemed like i was looking down a short hallway to the opening..im tighting up as i usually do thinking the worst...my eyes are almost closed due to my lack of confidence and all of the sudden im out of the barrel not touched by any water and the thing spits at me as i reach the shoulder...best feeling ever..my friend that was watching from the beach said i completely disapeared...aaaaa...its wierd, ive been to costa rica and Fiji and hawaii...and still my best wave (or barrel) was here in sf, pretty cool but i figure the odds are working with me on that one...still waiting for a better one...maybe this years namotu trip...another wave of my life was this 6 foot rincon right that i felt my feet were glued to my board..aaa mamorys
Posted by: bagel at September 9, 2003 12:19 PMBest wave ever? O.K. - I'm gonna get sappy here, so feel free to ignore this post and skip to the next one. I recently got reconnected with my 27 year-old son, whom I had not seen in over twenty years - long story, email me if you want it. Turns out he's been surfing for many years. On Saturday he and I, along with my 17 year old son went out at Ocean Beach - fun little waist to chest-high peelers / totally glassy conditions. Near the end of our session, my 17 year-old stole my longboard, forcing me to ride his potato-chip 6'6". I can't ride shortboards in small surf AT ALL - the shortest-board I own is a 7'4" "big-guy" made for me by John Schultz, which I only use for headhigh+ waves. Anywaaay, The three of us take off on a wave. I'm in the middle snaking my older son, while the younger one snakes me - I can barely get to my feet on that little board and completely kook out, ruining the wave for all of us. We end up rolling around in the soup together laughing hysterically - I got a lump in my throat. Definitely my BEST WAVE EVER, period!
Posted by: Jimmie at September 9, 2003 12:28 PMWish my memory was better but the best wave i ever got was the last good wave I was on.
Guess thats why I keep doing it. I need that feeling again.
But in an aweful session at packed santa cruz pleasure point i did get one fat overhead set wave to myself that just kept going and going. But to put things into perspective, I'd take OB on a good day over Santa Cruz, because the crowd factor and proximity.
Posted by: Phil Young at September 9, 2003 01:21 PMlike phil i can't remember specifics (how do you guys remember all those details??) so the best one was the one i got most recently...in this case yesterday at tourmaline in ankle high surf, riding my friends long long epoxy takayama noserider, coming as close as i think i've ever come to hanging ten. nice weekend in san diego - HOT - not much surf, but warm warm water, perfect conditions for the la jolla rough water swim. street scene downtown was a blast on saturday night - SF's own DJ cheb i sabbah, the nor-tec collective out of tijuana, cypress hill, kinky from mexico, etc etc. a good time.
Posted by: paul b at September 9, 2003 01:32 PMbagel and jimmie... nice!
paul b.. sounds like sandy eggo is treatin' you well.. i've never been there..
in regards to remembering waves.. i used to struggle with that too.. now i try to make a conscious effort to replay the ride in my head as i'm paddling back out.
kewl..
Posted by: e at September 9, 2003 01:42 PMI can remember minute details about some rides going many years back...
But the best wave I ever had has always been in the most recent year, usually the most recent week. Hopefully it will always stay that way - I'd hate to think I stopped getting excited about surfing so much that I dwell on some trip I took years ago....
Just my way of thinking about surfing...life is for living, live it up.
Keep surfing no matter what.
Posted by: blakestah at September 9, 2003 01:53 PMDon't know about the best, but one of the more memorable waves was as a high school student; it was a dawn patrol to go bodysurf at Makapu'u beach with my friend Kalani (where are you now?). There was some good swell in the water and the sun was just barely coming up. As it got brighter we kept getting barreled in sun-drenched translucent golden tubes, one of which I could see out the back of and see Kalani waving to me! As I recall we were either the only people in the water or very nearly so. It was a good morning, I think we skated Off the Walls after.
Ah, youth!
Posted by: goodmorning at September 9, 2003 02:27 PMMy Best Wave-
Posted by: Phunski at September 9, 2003 02:27 PMIsla Vista/Sands Beach in Spring of 99...
Walked down to find a contest occuring and rapped with a couple guys from the UCSB surf team allowing myself a couple cinnamon rolls for breaking the fast-got a sugar high and paddled out close to the rivermouth
One fatty set rolled in straight to this fine chick warming up before her heat I asked to see if she was going and she backed off.
I drop in, the wave jacked up into a double formation of a Right about 10 ft. From the top section I thrust into the bottom section for the second bottom turn generating all sorts of speed and the elevate myself to the lip of the upper section...I blasted off the lip and found myself suspended in the air.
Everything was going in slow motion @ this point. I heard somebody let out a giant whoo hoo as I was crouched low and rotating couterclockwise as a goofyfoot. I landed softly and amazed as I was facing frontside staring @ this huge backdoor barrel coming @ me in tunnel vision.
I decided to charge into this black hole and tuck behind the clue curtain ending the wave in a pit of chaos riding it out until the beast wave swollowed me whole.
I was not in the contest, but on my own scorecard, I gave myself an 11.
yo phunski-
of all the places in the world i would never have expected someone's best wave to be at sand's. that place is crap 95% of the time but when it's on it's sick. nice story.
i can't think of any particular waves, but i have a few sessions that stand out:
1.) my first session at Gringo's in Chile a couple months ago. the odyssey crew bailed and i paddled out alone and scored 4 straight deep in-and-out tubes with my brother and the rest of my crew on the beach watching.
2.) oil piers in santa barbara (RIP) when i couldn't miss. wedgy lefts into the pier with tubes with ramps on the end section. every move i tried i pulled. i even busted a backflip which i haven't done since.
3.) jalama beach quite a few summers ago when it used to be good and uncrowded (unheard of now) with all my old crew. me and my homies trading off overhead beachbreak tunnels, never seen the place close to as good since that day.
Posted by: bbr at September 9, 2003 03:46 PMBest wave...is nothing compared to you fancy cats, but it meant a lot to me: It was a morning OB sesh following my epic 1 1/2 hour paddle-out skunkage...3 weeks ago? I've got my 6'8" which at that point had been out about 5-8 times(?), a new transition from my 8'
[ which I wasn't very good at either I must add!]
So yes, duckdiving is still extremely elusive...Anyhoo, it's small but rideable, there's a little pack on a sandbar already, but trying to be savvy and learn beach break physics think I see a lesser section farther south. No one around there but a boogie boarder. I spy it out for a minute, then hop in the water. Up over a wave, around a swell, up over another bump, oop here's a closeout, dive right under it [ holy shit! :) ] skootch sideways and over another bump, I'm out, here's a lil' wave, spin right around, catch it, pop up, get that awesome powery cruisy OB feel even on this small nugget, maybe manage a warbly turnish down the line..and holy frijole it was so easy! Bang! My friend on the beach woohooed.
Geeky but it felt so damn cool...that was my ultimate newb hero moment. Still trying to replicate that morning! ;)
Jimmie, your wave sounds like perfection...the paradigm of the spirit of surfing!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 9, 2003 05:12 PMi agree...best evers are hard. but i think i have one...nothing as crazy as you backflipping barrel cats, though. damn!
my Best Wave so far was this past june at witch's rock. offshores, sunshine, shoulder-high, no crowds, my first trip to CR, and three great friends out in the water showing me how it's REALLY done. the Best Wave took place while a friend and i were chatting...one minute we're midsentence, the next we're both paddling, but on opposite sides of the peak...so he goes right and i go left...and i catch my first-ever quality backside down the line. what i remember more, though, is sharing a sweet wave with a friend. that's always going to trump in my memories. sorry for the sappiness, but it's true. good, good stuff.
Posted by: friendly at September 9, 2003 05:14 PMmost memorable wave: may 2001, dinosaurs, bay of banderas, north of puerto vallarta. my first time surfing that break and also my first serious surf trip, back when i only rode my 9'0" longboard. scrambled out with 2 buds, late for our evening glass-off session just 2 other gringos out there. the sun had just set. i remember a drop into the shadows, can't recall if i did much of a bottom turn, but somehow got on the perfect line, and the wave just kept rising to meet me as i gathered more and more speed. touched the brown-blue face with my right hand and felt like i had been transported into the surfer's journal photos i had been diligently studying for weeks prior to the trip ... magic.
Posted by: loon at September 9, 2003 05:33 PMSome of the best waves end up being the ones where everyone paddles out to the peak you are on, so you move down a peak to an empty one and shortly thereafter you catch the wave of the day. Seems like that has happened quite a bit lately.
-d
Posted by: dano at September 9, 2003 06:21 PMMy best wave was this last week right here at OB. I caught a left from way out there that had like three different sections. The take off was steep, fast and hollow. I made a few top to bottom turns, and then it sort of mushed out. I almost popped out of the wave but just then I saw it start to reform. I hit the lip just as the reformed section came into play and dropped in on it with perfect timing. It was just like dropping into another wave. This section was even hollower, only grinding in about two feet of water. I made one big sweeping gouge and suddenly my board skretched to a stop and I flew forward like I was sliding into home base. I skipped across the water finally sinking 1 foot to the bottom. My fin was broken but my ego was pumped up and stronger then ever. That was just a glimpse into the months to come. I'm ready for the winter...
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