E's Surf Report: foggy.. scored a few..

See there's no wind in the tree and i'm outta bed..
into the wetty and scamper down the street..
earplugs in, i can hear the pound of my footsteps reverberate up through my legs
Over the great highway and i'm hoping for head-high glassy perfection..
Instead the ocean serves up healthy portions of crossed-up, frumped jarble-schmook..
well.. i'm in my wetty already.. hmmm..
The relative absence of wind manifests via a semi-smooth ocean-surface.
Waves flow toward shore.. sometimes breaking on an outer sandbar.. then reforming and mostly dumping and closing on the inside.. it's not that huge.. maybe shoulder/head-high.. Real foggy.. I'm committed to the session but it's gonna be real solo and extra lonely out there in the foggy unknown.. paddle out.. duckdive a few.. get out to the lineup.. can't see the beach.. utter, absolute isolation.. make a conscious effort to concentrate on the waves and not the eery/spooky/misty/darkness and just try to get into my session.. a peaky right comes along.. i stroke in, pop-up.. pump a few times and then draw out a long, mellow cutback.. cool!! already a better ride than i thought i'd get while looking from the beach.. paddle back out there.. a few more rights and a left come through.. for a moment i forget about my isolation and the grandness of the pacific and just groove with the rhythm of the session. then these three skinny, alien-looking heads jut out of the water and start thrusting toward me... staring me down.. turns out they were seals (sea-lions?) but they swam damn close to me and it was unusual to see them in such a tight-locked formation and with such thin necks.. almost like fat eels or something.. anyway a few moments later this peak rises up and i start to paddle for it.. then i see two dark shapes in the wave (seals) and they're already riding it.. so i let them have it.. then i notice a sizeable, chunky left that seems to be breaking over a sandbar with some consistency. So i paddle over and schnag two or three lefts and a fun right.. another guy paddles out out of nowhere and i'm actually really happy to see someone! a few more waves and i call it a sesh.. quite a few duck-dives to get outside.. but.. the peaks are ok out there.. if the wind stays chill you could/should definitely score a session out there today..

everybody that complains about the crowds at OB.. ya should have been out there this morning.. one of those mornings where you really wouldn't mind seeing someone else..

also.. my cell phone is currently broken..
Kus.. i have your camera!! email me your addy..

barry mcgee