niice..
smaller up at VFers... bigger through the middle.. sculpted and lined up at Slizz..
surf potential is running high throughout the beach. kinda disorganized through the middle.. threatening to break on the outside.. then often backing off.. then crunching on the inside (sometimes nicely, sometimes not)..
Sloat "hella" crowded.. but smooved out glass on offer.
biggest waves overhead. a bit burgery on most of em' but i saw a boogie make a nice in-and-out.
Super surfable.. not fantastic.. but.. purdy good.. i'd say a 6.
i actually didn't surf this morning.. Slurfed a solid 2 hours yesterday afternoon.
Pretty close to a dream senerio after work yesterday:
- got a seat on the N-judah right away (mongomery street station)..
- new surfer mag to get me pumped up on the ride
- cutie french girl sits across from me and we exchange mellow eye contact.. but i'm not sweatin' it at all 'cause Seymore Sassafrass is the bomb diggity..
- Bright, immaculate sunshine as i step off at 45th ave.. no wind
- sprint home
- soft afternoon sunshine streaming in my windows
- Sample some of the new bubonic chriz i just picked up
- shred for 25 minutes on the guitar.. work out some new material
- musically transport into the dark dripping nether-regions of skewed perplexity..
- wake up out of the sonic revery and realize there are waves to be ridden
- change into the wetty in my house, grab board and sprint to the beach..
- sucking, head-high muscle flexing and hollowing throughout the lineup
- Frickin PSYCHING SO HARD!!!
- power sprint to the water and paddle out..
- start stroking into meaty mini-bombs..
- brief cover up on the backside
- stonily pull out of a pitching closeout at the last second.. go over the falls with the board between my legs.. d'oh!!! luckily no injury!!!
- breathlessly taking as many waves as i possibly can..
- craving and frothing and salivating over the waves..
- looking down the line as barrels thump and roar.
- feeling the primal power of the swell pass beneath me and then ledge up on the shallow sandbar. Sparkling kenetic outlay..
- golden, vibrating sunset..
- big phat burgermeister burger post session..
- werd..
hopefully a repeat today post-work.. fingers crossed.. anyone want to meet up for an arvo seshy?
also a shout-out to Gary who golfed it up with my boy Nate-dogg yesterday. heard that you headies had fun! it's all about teeing off on the 3rd hole!
more east coast fabian pics
Landon crafted these illustrations...
Got lindy last night SUPER FUN! Got to surf with some of the older loc's, and was sharing and trading waves, clean waves were coming through if you picked the right spot, VERY crowded. Even though water felt like winter people were out in trunks and rash guards. Got some huge close-out floaters and close-out barrels!! Fun stuff... It's Friday, the weather is beautiful and everyone should go surfing. Or at least lay out on the beach.
Posted by: Ian at September 12, 2003 10:38 AMe....sounds like a killah afternoon yesterday. nice. i guess i need to work on my peak selection as, despite the fact that it sure looked pretty where i paddled out, the sesh was lackluster from a wave point of view. breaking on the outside early in the sesh and snagged a couple fun drops, but then the wave would simply shoulder out. halfway through the sesh the swell seemed to drop and the outside shut down. moved inside and encountered uber shifty conditions. so....not much luck (or skill?) for me today. still...can't beat the beauty of the morning. that alone was epic.
Posted by: ck at September 12, 2003 10:38 AMran into e this morning, car still warm with board on top.
u shoulda surfed, it was disrespectful of you, especially to those of us who don't have the option to do "double sessions" whenever we like.
Ah, fergit it, just wishin I was 10 years younger again for a few surf-days. Back to work...
-------
also, here is the "second session on the UFO" report from my buddy. He is an "advanced beginner", and I made his 7'0" "shortboard" thruster into a UFO.
"It was head high and breaking kinda fast. I got four really phat fast rides. My buddy kept thinking I was a goner, and I'd make it. The board planes really noticeably sooner, and is almost too responsive, almost twitchy. I like it."
Posted by: blakestah at September 12, 2003 10:46 AMAny of you heroes got names/numbers of surf savvy PTs and body workers? I am JONESING BAD with this shoulder!! Arrrrgle! It's not a total injury but I definitely need to see someone to maybe tweak it and also give advice. Thank you!!
OB: smaller, hotter, smoother, and more crowded version of yesterday. Shrunk quite a bit from this am. Highly changeable...each hour has a different version - closeout hour, outside mush hour, combo hour, lunch hour. There's already a zillion peeps out, watch out after work, it might look like the New York subway at rush time!
Posted by: s.s.sharkbum at September 12, 2003 11:12 AMyeah blakestah.... now i'm bummed that i didn't jump in... but not bummed that i got to snuggle for a few minutes this morning :)
your daughter is cool..
ck and ian.. good on ya for gettin' some waves..
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 11:15 AMian! barrelled at lindy!!! deeaaamnn!
Hey E,
Posted by: Cam at September 12, 2003 11:23 AMwho is Landon? I think those pictures are sick. Been looking for something that would make a cool tattoo recently & this might be it.
thx
Cam
ditto what Cam said. those are some of the cooler artistic representations of waves that I have seen in a long time. Sort of Seversonesque???
Posted by: jdz at September 12, 2003 11:49 AMi had a similar session as e last night...if today is a repeat in conditions im in for the afternoon....with a stop off at point cronkite..it was fuuun last night got this wierd lip barrel where the lip was just breaking on my head like i was taking a lip shower for a second or 2 it was funny, but i made it! wooo?
Posted by: bagel at September 12, 2003 11:58 AMi'll be on that pathtrain to the water later today...can't wait...
s.s., there's a guy named derek who does massage out of the ladera bikram yoga studio. that's a long haul from the city, but let me know if you want his info. a magic man, that guy. (it's kinda expensive magic though.)
and never underestimate the power of ice...especially for shoulder/tendon injuries.
Posted by: friendly at September 12, 2003 12:05 PMgot my gear with me and will try to sneak out of work early today. after-surf drinks at zeitgeist are in the works. it's going to be an amazing weekend.
Posted by: caveman at September 12, 2003 12:07 PMsharkbait - I know of a few guys who always help when I'm a little sore - Bud Wiser and Sam Adams both come to mind.
For real tho, there's a sports med place in palo alto (trek from the city, i know, but they do a lot of the pro guys) that has been highly recommended to me in the past. my insurance didn't cover it tho :( i can get you the name a little later - someone on this board may have heard of them tho?
question for all - do you do much specific training to strengthen joints/tendons/shoulders/tris for surfing? i've recently gotten back on the rowing machine and noticed that paddling out seems a helluva lot easier - both from a sheer strength and stamina perspective, was wondering how many of you have any workouts you've done in the past that have helped keep everything working A-OK? obviously there's swimming, but anything that someone wouldn't directly correlate as beneficial to surfing? rock climbing/bouldering is another that seems to help out, strengthens all those little connecting muscles/tissues in the rotator cuff.
damn, this post ended up being long. sorry.
Posted by: j at September 12, 2003 12:45 PMviva la playa
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 01:00 PMhell yeah e, sick session last night. PSYCHING SO HARD!! f yeah! hope today is sick too, you guys are ready for a sweeeeet weekend!! i may post again in a few minutes with some of my fabian shots, just got 'em back. werd.
Posted by: jake at September 12, 2003 01:29 PMblakestah,
How does one sign up for a UFO?
Posted by: bird at September 12, 2003 01:42 PMnice one, j. i think the place you're talking about in palo alto is SMI (stanford medical institute?). they take care of the farm team runners and a bunch of those guys used to work there, too. massage and PT options abound.
as for surf-spec exercise, i like a good trail run. ha. but seriously. i tend to think more about my lungs than my muscles, and kicking your own ass around in the great outdoors is the absolute best way to be ready for any kind of fun. and the scenery kicks ass. 'course, i actually like that exploding-lungs feeling at the top of a ridge...it's all about the vo2. ;)
Posted by: friendly at September 12, 2003 01:44 PMHey I've heard the name Lance Harriman (?) as a surfing PT but haven't found a # yet.....?
Definitely busted myself a bit...hurt just walking to the store, faaaaark! Er otherwise , j, I think hauling boxes of comics is great for strength training, just don't overdo it or you'll end up like me!
Niceness peeps, get out there, no joke, skip the post work rush!
Posted by: s.s sharkbait at September 12, 2003 02:13 PMFabian!!!
Florida. Sets bigger than my picture, had to get wet!
The rest of the pictures are from Frisco, on the Outer Banks. 3 pics from Day 1 (I was with Dr. Deni this day):
And Day 2! This morning was MACKING, double overhead, roping.... closeouts. Not worth the massive paddle out. First pic has a little surfer for perspective (right side).
and a roadtripping selfportrait
Go get some!!
Posted by: jake at September 12, 2003 02:40 PMblakestah _ YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO COMPLAIN ABOUT YOUR AGE YET! Sorry, was I shouting?
Posted by: Jimmie M. at September 12, 2003 02:45 PMNo wheels yesterday / Physical Therapy this afternoon. I shouldn't do it, but I plan on getting wet tomorrow. Last week's mini-session caused no pain, so ... I plan to make it a short surf, I really don't want to stretch this injury-rehab too far into the "real" surf season.
Exercise questions: yoga. I works - Ashtanga in particular helps with flexibility, stregnth and most important lung-capacity. Of course if you are stupid like me, and wrench around a bunch of ceramic molds, heavy wooden file draws and other burdens I should have avoided, you're gonna get hurt anyway. Be careful guys 'n' gals - in the water AND out.
sharkbait.. sucks that your shoulder is feelin' the pangs!!! injuries bite!
friendly.. you're hard-core..
in regard to surfing fitness and injury prevention.. i should be heeding my own advice about this.. but yoga is seriously the way to mutha-fuckin' go. Strength is definitely important in surfing, and if you're not surfing 3 times a week it would help your game to be doing some alternative strength/cardio workout.. but.. for a sport like surfing, that doesn't require the utmost strength, but instead requires massive amounts of balance, flexibility, quickness and finite bodily attunement.. yoga has to be the best thing going. During a yoga session you start to develop a more intimate communication with different parts of your body. The combo of breath-control, relaxation and deep deep stretching opens your mind to a greater sensitivity to the different parts of your body.. you really get a sense for where you weak-points are and get a chance to work into them.
with that said.. i'll be the first to admit i've been slacking so bad on yogma.. trying to stretch on my own but just not having the discipline for more than 10 minute bursts.
i think that mountain biking is pretty good surf cross-training.. works your cardio. works your legs.. also works rapid-fire mental decision making process'.. also works mental/physical abilities to blend and meld with the trail.. to quickly respond and react to blips and bumps in the path.. just like surfing..
also highly recommended for surf improvement:
- get surf vids - watch them!!! pay attention to how the pros balance themselves and the lines they draw on waves.
- surf as much as possible..
- take off on as many waves as possible (as long as you're not hoggin')
- throw yourself over the ledge of steep waves.. don't puss out!! just go! This goes for those waves where your not sure.. but you think maybe you can make it.. just fucking go. Kaiser and Robme are good at this..
- sit a little inside of where you think is comfortable.. you might take a few on the head but you'll catch more waves..
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 02:48 PMjake.. send me those pics.. they have to be hosted on a server for the "img src" code to work.. i'll put em up on niceness if you want..
argghh.. i gotz to get some work done!!
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 02:49 PMS.S. - One word--- VIOXX -- Unbelievably effective..not a pain killer, but an inflammation killer and therefore pain will also go away but mainly it allows it to heal..The truth is that anyone you go to is going to tell to REST it and ice it some and take some kind of anti-inflammatory. It takes time and then coming back you are nearly certain to redo it somewhat so just go really, really easy and slow back into it.
Posted by: cbarney at September 12, 2003 02:50 PMspeaking of surfing injuries...
Posted by: nate at September 12, 2003 02:58 PMI busted a rib a few weeks back right when I was in the middle of a steady surfing groove: nearly every day out in the water. Now I'mm bummin' with the idea that I'll lose my edge over the next few weeks as my paddling strength will have an inverse correlation to the rising swell size we'll (hopefully) be seeing.
Anyone ever break a rib? What's the prognosis as far as getting back on a board?
I was thinking that within the next few weeks I might try to concoct some sort of inner padding for my wetsuit and just get some light paddling in...
Any ideas???
nate.. i constructed an inner padding system for myself.. i have this protruding bond in the middle of my chest (tip of my sternum).. i basically cut apart an old wetty.. glued a few circular pieces (about 6 inches diameter) of it together.. and then sewed it onto the inside of my rashguard. works great.. kick me an email if you need more specifics..
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 03:07 PMbird, I am taking two units to SF Surfshop either today or tomorrow (one for the North Shore, one for John's board), and you could probably see/ride one there.
If you want to "sign up", talk to John or me. Any board can be retro-fitted, but as with all fin systems it is easier just going fresh on a new board. Who wants to cut something out of an existing board, route the hole, re-glass, a lotta work.
Right now is sort of a weird time. I've made 8 units by hand, and I need to re-tool to get production runs made. I am pretty certain the prototype we have now is ready for prime time. Once we go to production runs, it'll be really trivial for me to provide them (or course, interest/orders will speed that up).
Jimmie, I wasn't complaining about aches and pains of age, just increased responsibility/less free time for surfing. Remember being 25 and surfing whenever you felt like it, hauling away for a weekend on a moment's notice to some faraway surf destination?
Now, more than 60 minutes free seems like a luxury to me. That was my age comment. I'll leave the "I'm too old for that" crap to you
;)
Posted by: blakestah at September 12, 2003 03:11 PMd'oh
A 19 year old bodyboarder from Newlands, Cape Town (name not yet
released) was attacked and killed by a great white shark today while
surfing a spot called Dunes at Noordoek Beach on the South Peninsula.
He was surfing with a group of five bodyboarders in solid 6-8 foot
waves with a clean offshore when he was attacked. He was bitten on the
side, pinned and released. Within three minutes of the attack he was
dead. They estimate the shark between 4 and 5 meters.
More as soon as it comes in. very hectic here - Dunes is a very
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 03:42 PMpopular spot with awesome barrels, just around the corner from where I
live in Kommetjie. I spent a lot of the afternoon phoning my crew,
making sure they were all alright.
holy moly..
check this vid shot by blakestah..
http://www.blakestah.com/surf/avenues.mpg
Posted by: e at September 12, 2003 04:34 PMya i would have gone out that day but my pancreas was acting up....
Posted by: bagel at September 12, 2003 04:59 PMe,
Good surfing tips. I second that Yoga is totally key. Make it a religion. I've been doing it everyday for quite a while, so I now have a streak that I can't break... kind of like Catholic guilt or something. Just watch the vids like e says and you'll see how flexible the pros are.
-d
Posted by: dano at September 12, 2003 05:08 PMIf you look real close at Blakestah's vid, you can see the tip of my board occasionally peeking through the tube. I pulled out of this wave at the Beach Chalet just in time for brunch.
Posted by: Dennis at September 12, 2003 07:35 PMBagel, I was about to go out that day too, but my balls were no where to be found.
Posted by: Ian at September 13, 2003 01:56 AMTHAT DAY, was February 10th, 2002. In that whole winter, that was THE swell. It ran 8-9 ft 17 sec from 270 degrees all day, with strong offshores. Anyone who surfs the outer bars remembers that day - people talked about it afterwards for months.
I was tied up at home most of the day, got relieved in the arvo, and headed to the beach. A gajillion cars were parked there, with people watching! I paddled out at Vicente. Took almost an hour to get out, and I was at Ortega. There were a few dozen people out at Sloat, three of us north of Sloat. Also, a bunch of people tried to paddle out at VFWs, got caught around Seal Rock, and freaked out. Sean Scallan paddled out to talk most of them through the shorebreak, but the 47 footer came and picked up the rest. Check this, the surfers talked the Coasties into driving them south to VFWs, dropping them off outside the whitewater, and letting them take a last wave in!
I made three waves that day, one of which was a backside airdrop that I landed. The winds were almost too strong for it to be fun, just getting into one was a real challenge.
The next day was 12-15 foot faces, and nearly glassy. Unreal and super super fun. There is a pic of the 11th by Salerian on my site under readerpics. The 10th was much bigger.
Posted by: blakestah at September 13, 2003 06:14 AMwow.
Posted by: jake at September 13, 2003 09:17 AMOB swell was rollin' in nice and thick on friday evening (somewhere between noriega and pacheco), caught three decent rides in the first 30 mins., last one was an overhead crumbler that took me most of the way in. i just moved here from virginia and i'm a total kook, but i definitely appreciate glassy faces and friendly crowds...it was a little more sporadic late this afternoon, i swam in after only an hour out with a big old bump on my head and a weak ankle. looking forward to a long day of training tomorrow, though. OB is sick!!!
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