E's Surf Report: strong onshores.. but.. surfable

Skated down to check it even though the wind was blowing onshore with authority.
Shimmied over the great highway and low an' behold... rideable sections!! Seriously.. remove the chilly/blustery onshore wind flapping your cheeks from your mouth and bringing tears to your eyes and it actually looked kinda fun out there.. probably around shoulder-high. lots of crumbling, lackluster wavelets but also a plethera of chunky little walls and hittable corners. If you haven't surfed in a while or if you're just kickin' it at home with your buddy who maybe isn't the best surfer i'd say give it a shot. Maybe throw on some mellow Thievery Corp on your radio, whip out a little "Jack Herer", throw down your yoga mat and groove through some deep stretches for 20 minutes or so.. then grab an old wettsuit and board for your friend and cruise the beach.. put your wetty on before you look at the conditions in an effort to sort-of force yourself into a session.. then paddle out and enjoy the floppy, uncrowded but surprisingly fun wave-riding experience!

I'm giving my body a little rest after surfing about 20 of the last 25 days. my back is a little tweaky..

peace in the middle east!

oman
oman

lebanon
lebanon

nigeria
nigeria

GREAT pix of unusual places today.

You are cool.

-Douglas

Posted by: Douglasm at September 16, 2003 10:52 AM

where'd you find the shot of nigeria?? that's insane.

Posted by: nader at September 16, 2003 10:53 AM

that nigerian wave has "beat down" written all over it!!

Posted by: j at September 16, 2003 10:55 AM

that nigeria shot looks like a�o, shweet.

i finally put up all my south america photos + frames on 805bbr.com. here's a few empty ones without any fucking spongers ruining the waves....

Posted by: bbr at September 16, 2003 10:59 AM

Nice pics today!

OB: chunky, messed, onshore, shapeless BUT waist-shoulder cookie crumblers occasionally sorta lumbering through. Every once in a while someone paddles out...wish it was me! Earlier there was a lone shortboarder just killing it - making impossible looking moves on this junk. Pure skill and stoke.

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at September 16, 2003 11:22 AM

how do you post a picture?

Posted by: question at September 16, 2003 11:54 AM

thanks for posting those south america pics bbr.. damn.. those waves look super heavy and scary. I read an interview with Bill Sharp, who heads up the billabong oddysey (ongoing mission to find and ride a 100ft wave).. he mentions northern chili/southern peru as *the* most likely place for a rideable 100ft wave.. if you look at a global map you'll see it has one of the longest fetches in the world and also benefits from a deep underwater channel that comes up close to the coast. chili!! sweeet..

that nigeria pic i found yesterday evening just cruising around the web.

to post pics on this board the picture has to already be up on the web. i can put it up on the niceness server if you have it on your computer but not hosted anywhere.. just send it to me via email (cranial_bulge@yahoo.com)... if it's already up on the web right click on the pic (pc) scroll down to properties and copy the address.. then paste that address in your post.. wrap the address in the following html:

Posted by: e at September 16, 2003 12:36 PM

here's a picture of bill sharp kneeboarding down there. he was actually there the same time i was:

Posted by: bbr at September 16, 2003 12:56 PM

brown water in nigeria bro'
must be a river mouth
croc's maybe?

Posted by: big mig at September 16, 2003 01:22 PM

e, back to picture posting question. tried to follow your directions, but still failing. do i paste the web address in the comments section of the post? and when you say "wrap" the address in the following html, what do you mean?

sorry, but not tech savy, but if you answer my questions, you'll get a good picture.

Posted by: question at September 16, 2003 01:56 PM

testing..huh?

Posted by: bagel at September 16, 2003 02:15 PM

ok. figured the shit out. take a guess on this one. think where you've never thought of before:

Posted by: picture at September 16, 2003 02:33 PM

i wish i was in Rhode Island right now.

Posted by: bagel at September 16, 2003 03:23 PM

Posted by: e at September 16, 2003 03:36 PM

Posted by: e at September 16, 2003 04:29 PM

....into the suds!

that last shot is sweet. i always tend to think that people wearing fins have an easier go of it in the tumble...but maybe not?

Posted by: friendly at September 16, 2003 04:56 PM

those guys are nuts, i dont think fins would help out much in that situation...sorry about my big dipper post!

Posted by: bagel at September 16, 2003 05:24 PM

That's so weird you posted that pic, bagel... I just saw it this morning and thought "WTF?! That spot is surfable?!"

Posted by: mwsf at September 16, 2003 05:40 PM

Nigeria, crocks? Hell yeah! But the big problem as you get into that region are the goddam hippos. Those suckers as mean as wild pigs and faster than Maalaea. The stuff that comes out of the rivers in Africa is frightening, but worth the adventure. Think Skeleton Coast...

Posted by: searoom at September 16, 2003 05:44 PM

After reading the posts on this website off and on for awhile, I gota say after reading todays post-"you get it". You get the fucking magic of OB. We don't get the clean, we don't get the garunteed glass off every afternoon. But we do get relentlessly pounded while SoCal looks out at dribble every day. How about that feeling when you go on a surf trip to SoCal or whereever and while the locals are hemmin & a-hawin' because of the potential for a duck dive marathon paddle, yer laughing your ass off because any freakin' duck dive a thon less that 30 minutes is a joy/joke. And yes, there are many days when it is better to put the wettie on blind, don't check it at all. Just charge it...

Posted by: One More Thing at September 16, 2003 05:55 PM

Hey BBR!!
Why are those photos you are talking about posted on a bodyboarding website. Shame on you.

Posted by: pixel pete at September 17, 2003 10:39 AM

that last pic with the fins is crazy-looks like a sponger but lemme say that when I eat it bad bodysurfing I usually get picked up all the way to the top of the wave followed by a face plow at the bottom knarly stuff we all know how those go though.

Posted by: crazymontera at November 3, 2003 10:13 AM

Hey, can you send me any info or pics on surfing slovenia?

Posted by: Jeff at April 15, 2004 06:11 PM

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