hacked frumpy but surfable
The fog blew in last night.. and with it an onshore wind.
woke up this morning and the fog was gone but the onshore's remained.
The sea-surface groped and burped through disorganized choppiness
Waves around the same size as yesterday morning (chest/head)
Sandbars extremely shallow!
Legions of pinnipeds frolicking and snorting... staring and leaping.
Absolutely nobody else out.
Challenging/pitching/ledging/unpredictable pockets of wave energy on offer
Extremely quick pop-ups or raw, non-bottom-turning side-slips necessary to get into the waves and not over the falls.
Smackable lips.
Warm water.
Absolutely nobody out.
big crabs swimming on the inside.
Waves bowling on inside sandbars...
... look for the bowl...
... find the power center..
... take-off with confidence...
... hug the face...
... explode into the lip..
... back out for more...
I have a bunch of pics that Jake took of hurricane isabel that i'm going to post up on the report in about an hour.. so check back..
ss sharkbait.. speedy recovery to you!
video of hurricane fabian in new england
Caught some fun stuff mid-morning at Lindy yesterday. Lots of closeouts but fun rides to be had.
A blast from the past... Hope you don't mind me dredging this shit up, e....
http://www.niceness.org/surf/report_archive.htm
http://www.niceness.org/surf/tally.html
Posted by: mwsf at September 23, 2003 10:13 AMi know it's not about quantity, but i dug your tally, e. it reminded me of a photo album...you know, just something that might conjure up memories of an otherwise forgotten day at s*lt creek or some such. that's cool.
dennis, it was good to see you out in the fog last night! it turned out to be a pretty fun evening. super mellow, with just a few other kind souls and some fog eels. drifted to pacheco though.
Posted by: friendly at September 23, 2003 11:42 AMSummer! Surfed straight through from last Wednesday, the last three days at OB. Work is suffering so no beach today. The shallow is bad this year- the worst I have seen it since I moved here in '89. I wonder too what the huge quantity of sand dumped at Sloat is going to do this winter. Are the outside bars gonna become the inside bars?! Any conjecture? And the quality of surfing has improved here over the years. When I moved from Hawaii I was just an average surfer who was (when fit) pretty good here. Now I am again just an average surfer at OB. Unless you count backside when I suck royally. And the crabs, I have enjoyed them again this year. MMMM....good.
The fog dropped pretty hard and quick last night while we were out, let's hope the offshores and swell reappear as abrubtly.
See ya!
Posted by: goodmorning at September 23, 2003 01:06 PMthanks for the link to the archives, mwsf. the tally is very cool.
e, nice work on the record-keeping. do you still track every session? is the site the main means of doing that? or do you use an additional system?
Posted by: loon at September 23, 2003 01:22 PMHey, just a few questions... I'm fairly new in the surf world and I'm from FL so I surf Cocoa and the inlet. Where is Lindy exactly, and what is OB? thnx so much.
Posted by: Alicia at September 23, 2003 01:41 PMLee
Hey Lee/Alicia. Those are two of the better-know SF Bay area beaches. Check this out for details on those and many other surf locations 'round these parts:
http://sl.surfline.com/travel/surfmaps/us/sanfrancisco_monterey/index.cfm
Posted by: loon at September 23, 2003 01:47 PM![]()
Posted by: at September 23, 2003 02:21 PMloon.. i keep a calendar at home where i put a sticker and break-name for every sesh..
try to hit 200 days in one calendar year.. that was my original goal.. This year should be my third consecutive 200+ day year..
having the calendar with all the stickers on it helps to motivate.. my friend tom haan (bojon) used to always brag about the fact that he surfed 220 days in one calendar year.. i worked with him and he'd always rib me at work, saying that i didn't surf enough.. yadda yadda.. he used to keep a calendar and that's how i got the idea.
Posted by: e at September 23, 2003 02:37 PMimitation, the sincerest form of flattery . . . .
Posted by: d looose at September 23, 2003 02:49 PMe, I actually started counting sessions this year because I saw you doing it last year. It's been fun to see the tally grow and it helps to remember all waves and the good and bad rides.
that tally...brings a tear to my eye
Posted by: j at September 23, 2003 03:01 PMCool tally. Mongo drooly. After 200x's when I'm back in the water I'd love to start a travel tally. There's a 13' by 8' world map up in my place, you can see every dot in the pacific and every point break in Norway! [ reveals all secret surf spots ] .
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 23, 2003 03:24 PM
Posted by: e at September 23, 2003 03:42 PM
Posted by: e at September 23, 2003 03:44 PMglad to hear that your system isn't digital, e. have you established any rituals associated with your sticker-posting process? do you note anything else besides location - session rating? wave count? board ridden? total time in the water?
hard to say for-sure with the fisheye, but that last pic reminds me a bit of the view from tunnels on the north shore of kauai. my arms are tired just thinking of that paddle. but it's a left -- is that cannons?
Posted by: loon at September 23, 2003 04:00 PMNo, that's Teahupoo...Come on now. Unmistakable!
Posted by: obsurfer at September 23, 2003 04:32 PMblueeeeeeautiful!
Posted by: friendly at September 23, 2003 05:27 PMi thought teahupoo was only a left. and while that wave is cavernous, and thus reminiscent of teahupoo, i think the tahitian wave is like that Negra wave squared!
Posted by: jake at September 23, 2003 05:48 PMmy lady had the day off so i played hookey. we slept late, fixed a big breaky, then had a small, but clean and punchy peak at a SM "secret spot" all to ourselves. the blue sky was overhead and the sun sparkled on the breeze-textured water. we topped it all off with burgers and beers at a storied spot overlooking the blue. this might be my favorite Tuesday ever.
Posted by: ck at September 23, 2003 06:35 PMHi
Hit north parking lot early. Looked lousy, but caught a few until I broke my board! Totally bummed. LB caught the lip just right. Got over 5 years out of the Cascade, so can't complain though. That's five boards snapped at OB, two this last year. Already looking for the same shape. Any glass/weight suggestions out there for OB compliance on LB/hybrids? Surftech? The Cascade had Hexcel glass, which probably helped the board last as long as it did. See you the next offshore.
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