E's Surf Report

Jake - too sweet!! way to explore...and to score. ahh....livin' the life....

Need a little help. Never been to Costa Rica, and I'm going in Nov. Want to kind of rough it down the coast line. I'll be there for 17 days. Any advice on camping locations or breaks I MUST hit? Appreciate any help your willing to dole out.

tyrez found these at fluidzone

Windless and chest high in south central san mateo today. Fast shallow fun. One other guy out. Nice session.

Jake..that looks cool, but it inspired the following fun notion....since it's an off day for surfing here. This was also done a couple months back here on this site. Remember - Surfing at M_ B___tub?

Hey gang just thought I'd share this with everybody:

I went for a fun session yesterday ____ing and found some sweet waves (it was about __ feet on the face). The name of the spot is ___. I'm not telling the name, but I can tell you it is ___ of the equator on planet ___. Well anyway I took off going ___t on this one wave,...which is ___side for me, and just got immediately shacked! Can't you just picture it?

That was a ____ post Jack.

obsurfer, it may be worthwhile for you to invest in "A Surfer's Guide to Costa Rica" if you want to be on the independent traveling tip... it gives you tons of info about many many breaks, and all the lodging info you need, whether its cheap hotels or camping if its available.

speaking of CR, I'll be starting Niceness: The Costa Rica Mission in November, and all niceness crew members are invited to crash at my pad. (I just have to get one first).

thanks for the jocular juggernaut, e. payce!

Thanks Jake and Kaarin! Appreciate the insight. I've been to Indo, Tahiti, S. America, always blowing off C.R. for a better option, but this time it's C.R. fo schizo! Again thanks. E, enjoy your website daily. Keep it real!

Jack, don't ever mention my home break of M_ B _ _ _ T _ B ever again!

That is my home break and I don't want my ducks getting crowded in the lineup.

HA! Just kidding man, just kidding.

yeah.. sorry about all the spot-name mystery in "Jake's Hurricane Juggernaut".. It's just that my arse has been flamed so many times for naming spots that I'm treading super lightly these days.. i don't want to get beat-up next time i paddle out!! i know it kinda sucks.. sorry..

i can name this spot though.. padang padang.. surf it if you dare

thanks, gp. i love posts like that.

a Costa Rica Mission in November...these are the sorts of thoughts that will keep me from accomplishing anything for the rest of the day. work? what? who? me? now? work? how? obsurfer, i'll be seeking s.america knowledge someday soon...enjoy that trip...

e, no worries. you're on it. the mystery stuff...well, now, what would life be without a little mystery?

kaiser, you barney, i've been surfing Y--- B--- T-- since '54 when all we had were 10 foot logs that hardly even fit in your 6' foot porcelain tub. next time i see you out there, i'm going to surf all over your floppy ducks. poindexter! [I recall well the day some young hotshot at Pleasure Point told me to 'keep paddling, poindexter'. aaaaaah, those funny funny hecklers.]

Cmon e.
That break must be Montauk Long Island?
Maybe Rhode island?
Throw a Jersey bro a bone.
Cmon..........

Cmon e.
That break must be Montauk Long Island?
Maybe Rhode island?
Throw a Jersey bro a bone.
Cmon..........

Cmon e.
That break must be Montauk Long Island?
Maybe Rhode island?
Throw a Jersey bro a bone.
Cmon..........

Cmon e.
That break must be Montauk Long Island?
Maybe Rhode island?
Throw a Jersey bro a bone.
Cmon..........

Jake, those were the days... those were the days...

Back in '54 you didn't have the worries we do today. More empty, available T _ bs then we knew what to do with! Nowadays, its all shower-this and shower-that. No one has a clue anymore! High pressure, massage, jet-stream, detachable (we never had detachable), 7-speed, chrome, air-o-matic, you name it...

Just good old porcelin is what I crave! I guess I am just a throw back. Call it nostalgia!

i can feel it in me bones, mates.

its almost time.

eat them wheaties, boys an' girls...

njs.. i'll leave it to jake to spill the beans if he wants..

Hey all you navy seals, I'm calling a niceness BRUNCH - or considering how organized I've been, beer n' skittles - at my place late Oct or very first week Nov. Preferences? FYI outta town Oct__through 17.

OB: foggy n' small...two people out...perfect if it was my first recuperating day back in... But you know it'll be the storm of the century when that happens ;)

Happy ___ing,

yep kaiser, us 'bathers' are a dying breed. it's an old rivalry, bathers vs. showerers. of course what really bugs me is when bathers start riding in their tubs with new school shower style. stick to the classic long tubbing. like that new fella, joel 'are you lookin' at my bum?' tudor.

and yaaar, e, i'll leave these lowkey like you. i'll just drop njs an email.

-jake, whose hands are all sticky from a fresh ding repair job, but i think it was a success! my spankingly bluetiful Retro Phish will be back in the water soon.

The picture is Montauk Long Island.
"Turtles" (Near the lighthouse)

sorry about naming the spot..couldn't help it. Used to live on Long Island.

s.s. - you are the host with the most offering your pad up again! i'm down with the brunch plan....either late Oct or early Nov is fine by me.

Dennis & friendly - did a plan ever come together re OBtoberfest?

On the horizon.

Long range forecasts have the first real low of the year reaching the dateline around Sept 29th. October is almost here, and remember, at Ocean Beach.

October only comes once a year.

> jet-stream, detachable (we never had detachable)

laughing out loud in san mateo.

blakestah...a question...what constitutes a "first swell" of the season? i saw the AK low pressure reference on your site this AM. is there an actual metric?

yeah ck, OBtoberfest...serving up stellar surf, quality peeps and cold beers since way back in '03...dennis? que mas?

I hereby arbitrarily define the first swell of the season as the first swell with period at least 14 seconds and swell height at least 5.5 feet, and direction from 265 to 320 degrees. Or, enough to make me wanna break out a longer board. Or, the first northern hemi low with a substantial area of winds greater than 40 knots pointed at us.

The Gulf of Alaska low last night is a small one, could generate a 3-4 foot swell. It had 40-50 knot winds pointing at us, but only over a very small area, and for a short period of time. We'll feel it, but the ooomph will not really be there.

blakestah-
What do you mean by longer board? I don't understand.

cool, thanks. who says you don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows...

werd.. thanks for the info blakestah.. i love the groundswell juice, no doubt!!! i have to admit, though, that for OB, my favorite conditions are the in-between swells.. the 14 and 15 sec periods at 4 or 5ft on the buoys.. anything bigger and shit starts to get hairy.. i also like the long period but small stature swells.. like 2ft 18seconds.. little sets of blips cruise into OB, fooling you into thinking they're not much.. and then they just suck-up and interact with the sandbars majestically.. producing sicky lines. but when swells start reaching into the 10ft 18second range.. i'm usually looking for alternative surf spots.. unless it's real spaced out, with gentle offshore flow..

anybody else have "favorite buoy readings"

bring it..

frontpage of surfermag.com

njs - defintely Montauk - "Turtles"

Longer board?

You know, something like a 7'8" Jobson Twinzer would work well...

i'll take what e ordered.

e, you last post referenced 'spaced out' sets, and reminded me of a 6 ft 17 second swell around this time last year - definitely too big for me last year, but the wind was perfect and the long lulls made it manageable.

thinking about that has me wondering why there isn't a measurement taken by the buoys for the number of individual waves passing during a given time frame. seems like it would be very easy to track this. maybe the data is there, and i'm just not seeing it? blakestah?

http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/nocal.html

Bring me some outer bar juice! I need it. I have my brand new 7'0'' Coffey marinating at home. That thing is salivating like a dog right now just in anticipation... Or maybe that is me...

Per the conversation over the last few days, these inside bars scare the hell out of me when you air drop from 6 feet into the shallows. Cranked my neck plenty of times on days like that. For me, give me enough juice to get some outer A-framage going around head high to overhead. Creates some big shoulders that can make you move and bust a big, high speed turn on the shoulder. Just toss a bucket Occy style!

Blakestah, your board drive is next!

blakestah-
Still confused. Did you say longer or shorter?

loon -- Isn't this the same thing as the dominant swell period? 6ft 17 sec would mean that the dominant swell has an amplitude of 6 feet and passes the buoy every 17 seconds, or 3.5 times per minute.

Tons of good info at http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/tutorials/menu.html

loon,

see also morelock's physical oceanography pages

click on 'waves' in the right hand box to get a fairly good overview...

Hm, today's weather conversation has officially and finally pulverized the 'dumb surfer' stereotype.

i think the buoy takes the average of the best 1/3 of the waves passing by the mofo.

that's why when it's 6 at 17 you still get some bigger sons o biznatches on occasion. other wise known as the clean up setties....

water temp at SF buoy is 61 degrees as of 4 PM....

correct scientific vernacular.....

Swell Height (SwH)
This is the estimated average height of the highest one-third of the swells. It is estimated from determining how the wave energy is distributed among various periods (frequencies), determining if a separate swell energy peak exists, and then, picking a frequency to separate swell and wind-waves. The swell height is calculated from the wave energies below the separation frequency.

Swell Period (SwP)
This is the peak period in seconds of the swells. If more than one swell is present, this is the period of the swell containing the maximum energy.

Great info! One somewhat related bit of information that is important to know about how swell period affects waves is that long period swell contains a lot more energy than short period swell, so 4 ft 17 second swell will generally produce quite a bit bigger surf than 4 ft 10 second swell will. At longer periods, the wave energy is carried deeper under the surface of the water and amplifies the size of the wave as the swell reaches shallow water.

More good easy-to-understand info here:

http://www.surfline.com/surfology/surfology_forecast_index.cfm

the mavsurfer guy took this last thursday

thanks mwsf, g, tom . Stormsurf sez "Wave period is the amount of time (in seconds) it takes from the moment one wave crest passes a fixed point until a second wave crest passes that same point." My question was about the total number of wavecrests that pass during a given period of time, and I think that the dominant swell period data doesn't really reflect that (although the data is probably collected, we just see the aggragated info). But the stormsurf page also explains that the individual waves within the wave groups are very dynamic until they hit shore -- so I'm guessing that even if they did give us the raw number of wavecrests per/hour passing a given buoys, it wouldn't necessarily be reflected in what happens once the wave groups hit shallower waters.

Does otherwise sound like there's a loose correlation between the distance the swell travels and the frequency of lulls; not surprisingly, blakestah and the other forecasters almost always mention the location of the source of swell energy.

Rushing home and out to the beach now, will read more tonight, certainly appreciate any additional clarifications/pointers.

I really don't have anything to include in the conversation today. I just want to see my name in the bright lights.

loon -- D'oh! That makes total sense. I wonder if you could apply some sort of model to swell heights and directions across all frequencies of period to come up with a wave count. Like you mention, what counts is what happens when the swell energy hits the shore.

MWSF....storm surf has done that but tides and shoaling and refraction, deeper water etc....make accuracy difficult so it varies spot by spot.

i think i read it is most accurate for OB and Steamers (and mavs on bigger swells) you know the "standout spots" that "out perform" most area beaches

it's right there on the main page.....just scroll down to the bottom. I think the formula utilizes trough to crest. which is lip just before it goes past vertical to the flats i believe or "face size".

according to the formula a swell range of 5.9 ft to 8.8 ft at 17 seconds will produce anywhere from 10-15 foot faces.

check it out....it's kinda cool.

i personally always had in my head that 7.5 at 15 secs to be around 10-12 foot faces or dbl ohead for ocean beach. i also in my head would always pretty much assume that 10-11 second period swell would have a face height to be around that of the swell footage so 6 ft at 10 -11 secs was 6 foot faces.

after that it's just big and seems silly to measure in 12 inch increments.

in addition to the longer period energy being spread out the reason is that the longer the period the fast the swell moves (1.65 mph per second of interval) so the swell when it feels bottom roars up and is taller.

also when a new swell is starting the long period stuff arrives first. so day one can be like 5 foot at 17 and day two like 7 foot at 15.

ok now that we have ruined professor blakestahs evening it'll be interesting to read more detail.

i hope he has a red pen......

clarifications please

I think that the metric that loon is looking for might be the swell’s "consistency." That is, the average number of sets over a given period of time along with the average number of waves within the sets. For example, you could have a 7.5 ft @ 17 second swell from 290 degrees averaging 5 sets/hour with an average of 5 set waves/set.

If the "quality" of the swell could be reported, better (i.e., more consistent) readings would probably be given for NW swells as opposed to SWs here in NorCal. Since SW wave trains have to travel so far from the southern hemisphere (New Zealand-ish) they are naturally less consistent than NW swells which originate relatively close to us in the Gulf of Alaska. That is why you can see such long lulls from SW swells. These lulls can also be exacerbated if the swell has to travel through islands like Tahiti to get to us.

Seems like it should be possible to collect the data needed to calculate swell consistency from the buoys. In fact, maybe the data is already being collected since a lot, if not all, of data needed to calculate the swells consistency is already being collected in order to calculate the metrics already being reported (e.g., the swell height is defined as the estimated average height of the highest one-third of the swells).

-d

foshizzle!!! That was a fun board chock full of fun banter boyz and girlz...good on y'all!

no blakestah?

Ok....i'll go back out!

souths are inconsistent simply because they come from so far away. the fact that we even get a wais high wave at ocean beach is evidence of superior "quality" of swell. (not that OB is the place for S swell it is just a beach that pulls in swell.) But if OB is feeling souths many other places are firing so a South is not a good discussion point.

OB is all about N and W.....everything else is a treat (same for SC despite how well the reefs feel S swell)

but i guess in laymans terms......every swell that comes in long period will kinda lack consistency. the simple reason is the longer the period, the faster the waves will move through ocean and thus spread themselves out.

the # of waves in a set has a lot to do with other factors like fetch (days of sustained winds etc. and surface area of storm winds ) fetch needs to be explained another day i guess.

so as i mentioned before....day one of a swell might be a 5 ft at 17 seconds. and day two might be 6.5 feet at 13-14 seconds.

day two will have the most waves. as the period goes down, more waves arrive.

again....I think.....

no more from me on this. but fun while it lasted.

First, kdalle, sorry for mentioning your short board. I'd remember what mine is, but its been so long since I surfed I cannot recall.

The swell height reported by the buoys is the largest 1/3 of the waves reported in the hour. Basically, they sample each 100 seconds, and do an FFT (frequency transform) of the data, and keep it if that 100 second period was in the 1/3 largest. Then they average all the keepers together.

The buoys only underestimate the wave height when there are really sparse sets, so that the sets don't fill up close to 1/3 of the largest periods. Then the waves can be much larger than the buoy readings, since the average reflects the large infrequent sets averaged with zeros.

Wave period SQUARED is proportional to wave energy. Wave period is proportional to wave velocity in deep water. In shallow water, wave velocity is proportional to breaking wave height. A 4 ft 20 sec swell can be extraordinarily large when it breaks, although it will be 4 ft in the open ocean. A 4 ft 10 sec swell tends to be close to 4-5 ft wave faces at Ocean Beach.

An even more interesting relationship is wave period and wave line length. Science mag ran a story a year or two ago about measurements of this - the wave length (meaning, perpendicular to the direction of motion) increases dramatically with wave period. So, long period waves, like 20 second periods, seem to have REALLY long walls. The windswell may make 100 yard of breaking wave at best, but if you stand up at the reservoir at 26th and Ortega when 6 ft 20 sec comes in, the waves seem to reach over a mile long.

Lulls relate to fetch size and swell distance. Big fetch has fewer lulls, longer distance has more lulls.

Waves per hour is not data that is kept by the buoys. But, one thing you can look at that is roughly proportional to that is the number of energy bands filled. If a swell has equal energy from 14 second periods to 7 second periods, it is always a raw (locally generated) swell with a lot of waves per hour. If the buoys only show one or two energy bands with signficant energy, the number of waves per hour is far less.

Shoaling and refraction some other time. I don't report these on my site, as they principally relate to how swells vary from one break to another. Long period waves start to form breaking waves at distances close to their inter-wave length. which is something like 500 m deep water for longer period swells.

Lerm or e, if you want to test the 6'8" UFO out, drop me an email, you can come grab it some night and ride it for a few days. Right now besides newborn care my shoulder has nasty bursitis that hopefully will clear up around the time the newborn care requires less time - should be late October, thought. I am thoroughly dried out, and can't wait to get back in (even though it will likely be weeks before regular surfing returns for me).

god damn. blakestah, you are the man.

thanks blakestah. and congrats/good luck with the newborn!

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