E's Surf Report

I am somewhat struck by the calls of the other forecasters, especially as BOTH of our outer buoys are already registering swell. Well, good then. I guess any crowd that shows up this evening will be all my fault. ;)

BTW, surfpulse is the same as stormsurf, for forecasting, both done by Sponsler. I dunno about wetsand, or surfline forecasting, never read them.

I got rained on by Typhoon Choi-Ham in Tokyo. Kaiser, get the board and surf tonite!

question for you guys.

How would you rate Ocean Beach on a good headhigh day compared to other challenging breaks in the world??

just wonder how it measures up to a place like Sunset in hawaii which i have never been to.

I.E. I noticed that the waves in Santa Cruz (not the crowds) are very user friendly, from steamers to pleasure point.

Also Costa Rica's Witch's Rock when on and head high is an easy wave to get into and has a long shoulder to fuck around on, Comprable to I heard to Blacks beach on a big day...

thats funny. i had a dream about myself in puerto last night.....and it was from that angle where you see the cliffs in the background like the shot posted above, not straight away from the beach.

oh yeah....i got shacked!

see you guys tonight during my second session. waves will be here at 3!

better put...

like a ski slope has beginer slope-Lindy

intermediate-

advanced- diamond

seems to me OB is advanced but really havent surfed enough different breaks to know, never been to Indonesia,

To me OB has been the most challenging place.

in the words of legendary late Butch Van Artsdale (1st to surf pipe, waimea, sunset, makaha, windansea local)

"if you can ride ocean beach at size you can surf anywhere in the world".

Tell ya the truth, I've been surfing for about-well a long time. But I haven't surf-travelled much. I intend to change that beginning with a surf trip this coming spring. Either Hawaii or Costa Rica. OB on a good day is a hell of a lot more challenging and fun than anywhere else I've surfed.

i know i've said it before, but i'll say it again. e, i just want to thank you for the site/vibes/stoke, the mental vacation your site provides on a daily basis helps transport me from my desk to somewhere else. thanks again.

what's up w/ the OB bonfire/beer session? anything in planning out there?

anybody headed to the longboard contest up in crescent city next weekend?

Blakestah, will be emailing you shorting in regards to a UFO launch.

As for the OB vs. other locale question. Let me share my opinion. As I roll around on my 3rd year anniversary of surfing, I have found that surfing in NorCal in general has value is surfing (or at least paddling out) the rest of the globe.

With OB in particular, I have never faced a more challenging paddle nor a tougher mental preperation then when a big swell hits OB. I have been to Hawaii way too many times to count, New Zealand, Costa Rica and most recently, Bali, to surf. When the ocean moves on the north shore of Hawaii, it is scary. More scarry then OB will ever be in my mind. Call it history, call it respect, call it the skin I left at Army Beach last year and the reef tattoo I have on my knee to prove it. 7 miles of reefs and rocks and bowls all strung together.... When a 10 ft. set comes, you can see it from a long way away and it is not comforting. Keep in mind, in Hawaii, you have rock and flat coral below you at most spots. At OB, you have hard packed sand. Sand is still softer then rock (in most cases). Water moves uniformly over a reef, point, or the like set up. It is never as chaotic as a wide open beach break like OB, hence the brutal paddle.

Point being: many different setups to consider from break setup, wave types, water temps, wetsuit vs. boardshorts, access to break, etc.

So there is a lot to consider in "rating" OB vs. the world. Would I take 3 months at Lance's Lefts with possible exposed coral heads vs. 3 months @ OB? Yeap. Overall, I think surfing OB has many +'s and -'s. Consider you live in or near SF and you get to surf a steller location almost year round. Ponder that for a moment...

I give it a 6.5 to 7 on my scale...

OB on an offshore headhigh day isn't much better than alot of other quality california beachbreaks when they're offshore and headhigh.

but...

once it's overhead to double overhead and offshore, i'd say OB is the best (wintertime) beachbreak in cali. blacks is up there too, but OB has way more peaks and way less people.

Well-seasoned locals are not overmatched at waves anywhere. Guys go from here to big Pipe, Waimea, Mavericks, Sunset, you name it. If you've been seasoned surfing OB at all sizes, you can handle dropping in just about anywhere people surf.

That doesn't mean OB pitches as fast as a really hollow reef wave, though, just that it gets you close enough that you can adjust to the difference.

actually....of guys i've talked with who have surfed OB for years and made many trips to the islands....they liken OB to Sunset.

currents, shifting peaks, size, far out to sea and of course the takeoff not being straight in to a tube like pipe etc...

Encouraging words from the Blakestah. I've got a big time itch to surf coral reef breaks. Sunset Beach on a double overhead day sounds most appealing as well. Maybe a plan for next fall. Gotta build up some frequesnt flyer miles, eh?

My .02-
10'+ Ob is more hairy than 10' +Sunset.
10'+ OB is more solid than 10'+ Sunset
10' +paddle at OB is more work than at 10' +Sunset
But 10' Sunset is my favorite wave (next to 10'+ OB )

intriguing discussion. i'm not as much of an ob vet, and this is probably applicable to beachbreaks in general... but appreciate the way ob challenges you to respond to varying conditions... if you're just a point break surfer, handling 'real' ocean conditions can be extremely difficult... if you're used to structure and suddenly faced with disorder. so just in surfing a beachbreak, you are prepared for lots of different scenarios... jacks and drops and pitches and closeouts... if you are versatile, then you will be able to more readily adapt to other breaks all over the world. i would agree ob's magic when it is double overhead is probably it's most valuable trait (not that I surf then)... but second I would say is the many, many faces ob shows... more variety = more versatility. plus it's huuuge, so hopefully everyone can spread out... i love barrelfests there when its offshore and there are fun peaks everywhere.

i'm stoked for your guys swell on the way, too! good luck everyone! ever since Isabel, I've been asking myself, "Donde esta Juan?"... Well, this morning I found out... say hello to my little friend, Hurricane Juan, who will be making a short lived sprint by the east coast this weekend. buenisimo!

Finally, a question: What is the origin of a nautical mile per hour aka knot? Why can't mariners use miles per hour, instead of 1.243whatever miles per hour? Gracias.

A nautical mile is some fixed distance relative to travel at the equator - it is slightly longer than a mile, and much longer than a kilometer.

Knots are nautical miles per hour.

Why? I have no idea.

imho OB get's your prepared and in shape and used to paddling, etc.. and also somewhat familiar with powerful/groundswelly/ledging drops.. but when you're surfing a shallow coral-reef break.. paddling into a lurching beast.. and the thing starts sucking-up, and you KNOW the damn thing is going to barrel like mad.. and you can see the flower-coral heads a few feet under the water.. it's a different thing than OB... an entirely different thing.. more consequential. You could drown at OB, probably easier than at most places.. but you're not going to get stabbed and lanced and cut like at Lacerations or One-Palm Point or Cloudbreak or Scar Reef or T-poo.. A few times at some of the more "lively" coral reefs in indo i'd be paddling back to the lineup after a ride and accidentally scrape my fingertips on the coral and have cuts all over my fingers.. with little pieces of coral stuck inside.. after the sesh i'd have to scrape a tooth-brush along the cuts to remove little bits of coral that were still stuck.. then over the next week or two the little cuts would open into gaping sores in the tropical climate.. ugly.. Every surfer in indo knows what i'm talking about.. coral cuts tend to crater and grow in the tropical climes.. weird and sketch.. my friend had so many coral cuts that his lymph-nodes were noticeably swollen. OB is pretty serious for a California break.. but the whole feeling and experience of surfing a shallow coral-reef wave is just different.. at a coral-reef break I just don't take the chances i would at a sand-bottom beachie like OB because the consequences feel much more serious. just my 2 cents..

Anyone else like to watch a NW come down the coast?

Current swell hit Pt Orford (near CA/OR border) 4-5 hours ago. Hit Eel River about 2 hours ago. Hasn't reached Pt. Arena yet, but should in an hour or two.

I'd say waves here before 5 or 6 PM would be a REAL long shot though.

never surfed sunset or the north shore..

never surfed triple-overhead OB either..

come'on little waves.. you can do it!! we welcome you down here in our little ville.. Come'on little wavies!! we would love to surf you before dark!

i like Jake's OB explanation..

this is pushing back into my science class memory, but i believe that a nautical mile is 1/60th of a degree of latitude...or 1 "minute" of latitude. degrees of latitude are approximately 70 miles apart, hence the slightly >1 mile/nautical mile. now...as to why a degree is the size that it is...or, for that matter, why a mile is it's size, i am at a loss. sounds like a little "google" research to procrastinate from work may be in order...

...then again...with the swell beginning to show soon, maybe i'll leave that to the next flat day so that i can get outta here and hit the beach this eve!

J.
Party is on Bro. It is a BYO party though unless I hit the lottery before now and Oct 4th. If you have a grill, bring it. We may need to take a collection during the day for a nourishment run but totally voluntary and no pressure. Prolly start cookin around noon.

I started surfing two years ago. My first session was out at OB on a used 9'0" Becker 2+1. I got completely worked for 45 mins, not sure I really made it outside. Got washed up on shore like a wet rag... and I was hooked! I split my time between OB, Rockaway, LM, Santa Cruz. I moved to Oahu five months ago. OB does this.. it makes you learn to surf and surf well very quickly. When I got to Hawaii the main thing that freaked me out was being able to see coral heads. Other than that, nothing yet has seem as overwhelming as a sizable OH day at OB. Of course I have not hit up Sunset in the winter... I'll report then. Oh yeh, another thing.. wetsuits do help you float and protect you a bit from banging your board... that's a big difference.

I am envisioning myself sitting at OB or some similar locale tonight at like 6:30 to 7:00 waiting for a little corduroy to roll in...

Hello, anything out there.... E, CK, someone, paddle out deeper and see if you can see anything...

"Hey, Blakestah said....."

Waves start at 5 PM.

Hell, since I'm on enforced dry dock, someone surfing mid OB just hand me a bullhorn and I'll start hollering.." HEY! QUICK, ONE COMING OUTSIDE TO YOUR LEFT! " then laugh while people paddle race...ahhhahaha

will chime in OB surf later...a micro tad bigger since this morning, but not much yet, it's pretty dang flat.

heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeere swell swell swell.
*whistles*
c'mere boy!
*claps hands*
c'mere swell!

that's a good boy....

stolen surfboard update: the claim forms with Thule, along w/ broken straps have been received by their claims person. fingers crossed...

5 pm it is...should be we all meet at _____ or ____ or perhaps k_____rs ____t__?

Could'nt help it. I am finally, and that is a BIG finally, feeling better after about 2 weeks of lingering, cold, lungburger hell. Gonna try to get out this afternoon...tomorrow, the next day...and the next day....

Looking forward to it. Have been really enjoying the vibe and intellectual dissertations on this site for the last few days. The ding stuff yesterday...very helpful. Might I also suggest getting the Ding Repair Scriptures? Literally bought it 2 days ago and it has a lot of good information. Cost something like 8 or 9 bucks on www.foamez.com. Lots of other goodies there as well.

Have fun!

thanks for the scientific info blakestah and ck. you answered as much as I care to know, ck. the rest sounds more philosophical... why is water wet? hehe.

5pm for you guys, huh? What a perfect way to end a work week. And for some people to start a new year. happy surfing everyone!

I concur with what e, blakestah and some of the others have said here re: Ocean Beach vs. other challenging breaks. While I don’t paddle out on the biggest Ocean Beach days – I usually hair-out on anything over 10-foot faces – at head-high, on a good off-shore day, Ocean Beach is up there with any head-high wave I've ever surfed.
I've surfed in Mexico, Peru, Australia, Indonesia, Tonga and Hawaii. The shallow coral and rock bottoms at some of these more tropical spots is a genuine hazard and definitely a head-trip that takes some getting used to. Even relatively minor reef cuts can spoil the fun for a while. But, I gotta say, there’s something about surfing in the tropics that lightens the heart and soothes the soul. I’ve fearlessly charged 10 to 12 foot freight-trains at Fish-Traps on Tongatapu - laughing and talking-shit the whole time in the bright sunshine and warm, blue water, as the sets lined up across the reef. Then again, I’ve paddled out very nervous, quiet and subdued on 6-8 foot days at cold, gray Ocean Beach, as the peaks heaved-up and shifted all around me. The message is: it's always something. And if you ain't in shape yet, get there quick. Fall is here, and it looks like we might get a little sumthin'.

Regarding OB vs. any other spot on earth. I have haired out at OB many more times than other locales around the world. I havent surfed indo or the south pacific, but i have surfed hawaii solid double OH, SOCAL, south america, and europe. I have been scared elsewhere but never like a solid 6-8+ day at the beach. It is just heavier, thicker, nastier than those other spots for a couple reasons IMHO: cold water 4/3 wetty doesnt help paddling power, longshore currents, fast moving waves, rips, not to mention the 3000 duckdives it takes to get to the 2nd bars. Once your out you've spent 1/3 of your total energy before your first wave. Any other spot you can make it to the lineup with 80-90% of your energy still ready for the first waves. I think those are the main reasons that separate OB from places like Blacks, Puerto, Hossegars (sp?), Witches Rock, Silver Strand, etc.

when OB is on and good it is the best beach break in the world period. at the same time its a giant pain in the ass. Even great days at Blacks are about 1/2 the pounding that OB dishes out.

It's been so many years since I've surfed in warm water 76+ and hot air. I'll gladly leave some skin on a reef. Isn't it some sort of passage into surfhood or something like that?

Pleasant sesh in that county across the bridge that begins with M this am.... 3 hours of good times, shoulder high lefts and rights, with min 2 and max 7 ducks on the pond. Sorry OB wasn't workin for you today .... glad I didn't go there...a little pre drive internet reserch sometimes pays off.

yay, i have a sunset ob comparison...surfed sunset in the winter about 5+ years ago..i was shitting. probably some of the biggest waves ive been in. was out on a 7'0. it was crowded and everyone seemed pretty comfortable..i bet it was about 13+ faces (my standards) i was freaking out, and i see gary "kong" elkerton destroy this set wave that i thought was really huge, he was treating it like a 4 foot ob a frame..at that point i started to realize that i am a big pussy..somehow i picked off a nice scrap and it felt like i was dropping in on the thing for a while..i was proud of myself that session when this local guy (looked hawaiian at least) took of in front of me on this wave, pretty steep section, and didnt make the drop and i had to straighten up and we both got kind of worked by the next waves and he actually appologized to me when we were both in the soup, i thought he was gonna punch me in the face..i was all happy even though alot of white water was coming my way...any way it reminded me of big good ob in the amount of water that was moving around and the look of the wave..but i would say the same size waves you would get more beatings at sunset, although its alot nicer to get worked when your just in trunks...and a picture for good measure..
perhaps this is what ob will look like at 5:23 this evening? to bad i will be watching the giants beat the dodgers

not here yet..

canada

anyone know where this is? Victoria?

OB: swell not showing yet, it's teeny weeny and enough of an onshore to propel the yellow-sailed kite board that just cruised by. A few peeps out waiting for the occasional knee or rare waist high to come in. Good times for going out w/a first time OBer, a supertanker, and your best Scary OB stories to impress your pal while you wait around.

Happy Surfing!

ps anyone going to bali hi fi this sat?

any sign of life at OB yet or the early Saturday rise the best call?

word on the street from kaiser is no swell at montara or linda mar, and so i think ob might not be working yet too. i'll post differently if he calls and it's on. but good luck tomorrow ya'll.

See you tomorrow!

As for the dilemma, I grew up in Hawaii going to the beach all the time and although I have never surfed huge Sunset, I can say that OB & California in general produce waves to rival Hawaii. Not as consistantly and a lot colder, but I have had great days here, North & South of here, and down in Socal.
Maybe it ain't Pipe, but the only time I have been able to surf there is earlier in the am than I can get up these days- the crowd is wicked even if you are from town. Over all I would have to say that Ala Moana is my favorite spot to surf. Consistant hollow lefts and childhood memories (with scars). We have it pretty damned good here those of us who can still afford to stay in the city.

Come on swell....

As of 6 PM shoulder high sets were rolling in, with a few peeps on it. Good to see some have faith. Didn't check earlier, but my guess is that the sets were there at 5 too, only more sparse.

Sandbars are REALLY shallow, and even at shoulder high drop-ins looked difficult.

Tomorrow morning should be better, be sure to hit the tide right, with bars that shallow you may want to wait until the tide fills in a little.

Well, it wasn't very exciting out there. Swell looks bigger then earlier. Good luck tomorrow. If it is sunny, at least it will be nice out. Fog creates wind, wind is no good.

Is this not one of the worst Falls anyone can remember? Alaska's looking good right now!!
Where are the pounding West's and the dry hot wind?
Pray to the surf gods!

How do I spell lame? O-B-T-O-D-A-Y. There were currents and rips and chop and dumpers and closeouts. After I duck dove under an "outside" wave, my deck was covered with sand. But at least I got wet and caught a couple short quick waves.

well, for as lame as Linda Mar usually is, it was awesome early Saturday morning. North of Crespi offered fairly clean shoulder high LONG rides all the way to the beach. There were a few distinct channels that even kept the would be closeouts nice peelers with perfect shoulders and racy sections...basically, about as good as LM gets surf wise...a little crowded though...

Dang. I shoulda made the drive. I considered heading south but had a time squeeze. Glad to hear you got some though.

Hiya, I've been reading your message board for the last week or so and it's good to read other people's surf stories. It's a cool site and I'm really enjoying it. Shame I live in the UK as it seems you get kick ass waves over there.

Anyway I was wondering if you would tell how you know how long it takes for a swell to hit the shore?

Thanks for your help, catch ya soon.

Oli

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