E's Surf Report

Posted yesterday but this bears repeating...

from blakstah

"Plenty of swell every day - overhead plus today until Friday, double O Friday with local windswell plus north winds, overhead plus Saturday, and triple O Monday morning."

Hi, I just found this site a couple of days ago.
I love it and I hope it's OK if I post a beginner
question:

As a total beginner, I am thinking of buying a
softtop (rubber, not foam) epoxy board like the
surftech 9' or 10' www.surftech.com. I'm hoping
to use it as a beginner board and continue to use
it later as a longboard if I can get into bigger
surf. What do you think?

Dick

dawn patroled yesterday and today. yesterday beating the notorious early riser Ethan "e" Ethanisovitch to the beach but today a few minutes behind him.

anwyay after reading the report for a year or so, I finally witnessed first hand and from just 3 or so feet away..... the oft described and famed "pig dog".

The takeoff was steep but smooth on one of the better waves of the session to come through. I was paddling out to get over and out of the way and as the swell lifted me up, E was paddling himself in and dropping down to my left.

He had that serious, determined look on his face and then as he stood and set it and the bottom of the wave started to fall away and steepen quickly. I was over to where the lip was about to block my view so I craned my neck to watch and then I saw it.....the knees bent first, the lip feathered and the long arm and hand found the outside rail and he was gone..........I looked down the line after the white water settled 30 yards or so away and there he was again gathering up the board to paddle out for more.

Nice one e...

softops are good for about 2 months of learning then you will be unhappy with it. IMHO you should buy a cheap used long board and spend the next 3 months at linda mar when its small. if you want to ride a softop take a lesson down there.

good advice dsx,

also if you have time and a day off mid week, try Cowells in santa cruz. Only go to linda mar at high tide. after all you dont want to be riding the soup after you get use to standing. you want to be on a shoulder.

dont waist too much money on your first board its pointless. Also longboarders cant duckdive thus they take more of a pounding paddling out through shorebreak

thanks tom!! it was cool to see you slank into some long ones too!

here's one for bbr.. via tyrez

for me? tanks! definite after work session today, came in early just for the occasion....

here's one with a backdrop that looks remarkably like OB and a wave that looks remarkably like mugu, but is actually in tasmania....

2nd that. don't buy an epoxy rubber-top...

renting soft-tops at linda mar and cowells is a snap... they always have some available at the shops. in a few months you'll be ready for a used longboard... on that note.. bear in mind yer probably going to ding/scratch the hell out of your first board no matter what it is made of... a lot of people recommend buying an old beater as your first board for this reason... epoxy is durable, but repairing it is super expensive compared to foam & fiberglass.

Nice work E.
this morning's post was one of my favourites that you've ever done. Pure stoke.
Dick, beginner guy. All the other stuff guys have said is great advice, I would add that one of the hardest things when you're learning is to successfully stand up in a co-ordinated fashion.
Doing pop-ups (like a push-up but you get to your feet) on dry land will speed the learning process up & help you get some muscle memory faster.
When I remember, I try to do a few sets of 10. Doing them on your knuckles is a little easier on your wrists too...
A book I found real helpful when I was learning is surfing by john conway. His style is a little school teacher-ly & the pictures are hysterical 80's kitsch but it's got a lot of helful info. here's an amazon link
hth

CAm

one more thing for dick, (that sounds sick) but anyway, you may want to get a "funboard" if you are not too big i.e. less than 6' and 200lbs. it will be easier to duck dive, manuaver, handle, etc. A funboard is a reatively new shape that in essence combines the width of a longboard with the shape/ride of a shorter board. because we have so many beach breaks, ie lots of duck diving and paddling the shorter board will be easier to handle, but less stable to stand up. just my $.02

agree with all the tips for Dick, with one exception: there is an easy-to-use epoxy version a "solarez". for me minor ding repair on my epoxy board has been just as easy as with my glass boards.

also for dick: be sure to get your 'core' muscles into shape - stomach is important, but so is the back and neck. yoga is a great complement.

leaving for a 2 week trip to the east coast tonight. hope that a massive high pressure settles over Idaho while i'm away, and that you all get some great surf.

and that arnold tries to surf and gets caught in a rip and we never hear from him again ...

The windsurfing world has been using epoxy and repairing it for a long long time, and it is neither more difficult nor more expensive than normal surfboards, just different. Just take your epoxy board to Advanced Surf Designs in Burlingame, they do a lot of sailboard work there.

I don't particularly like epoxy/styrofoam boards, but they are not tough to repair.

~ long post ahead, read at your own risk. ~

yoyoyo niceness! i'm checking in with my final hurricane report of the season, from the seductive, sexy storm Kate. she was a babe alright! the ocean hooked it up for me huge on Monday, cause that was gonna be my last day to surf for at least a month (after having hernia surgery yesterday). on the bright side, my next surf will likely be in Cali with some of you heads. but for now, I am simply relishing the deep visualization source of 7 hours in the water from 7am to 7pm. 6 to 8 to 10 to 12 ft glassy Kate. same spot as the last hurricane juggernaut, and I am left with oodles of waves to keep me company while drydocked. i thought i had gone fast on waves before, maybe pumping across the middle wall on an almost closed out south swell wave at 4mile, but I definitely broke my personal speedracer barrier on Monday... like e, it was the first wave of the day... I was in good position for the peak but i stall a bit in the lip, just get over the ledge for some serious pocket action (covered?) and then vooooooom i'm just cranking off the bottom to the top over and over again for ~20 yards of 8 foot accelerating insanity!

mama ocean also hooked me up with some tube time too on my last day of east coast Autumn surfin' (low 40s air temp in the morning!) I wasn't slanking into any primo in'n'out shacks at this highly competitive break, but i did get inside. in response to a question tom asked a while ago, does it count as a barrel if you don't come out?? my answer is a resounding Yes! If you get the View, that's all that matters to me. I allowed myself to be enveloped by a section I knew I wouldn't make it out of, which was soooo worth it and damn exciting, as I was covered in a standup barrel for long enough to feeeel and see the glory (before getting knocked head over heels into the punishing inside). the only other thing I'll say about these waves is that it was the kind of session where you were as stoked to see anybody catch one of these beauties as if it were you. big ole perfect double overhead peaks getting snagged by big ole dudes on big ole longboards... terrific!!

ok, i realize this is not a short post, but I am obligated to share an additional embarrassing story right now, for your amusement and also as a cautionary tale, so take heed: basically, I got caught in the most intense current I've ever been in in the ocean. having not noticed the current wooshing the tide back out to sea, i jumped in at an empty spot, paddled for the peak, and zipped right past it. i was staring at the lighthouse, paddling back as hard as i could, not going anywhere. after exhausting myself doing this for 10 minutes (after a 3 hour morning seshie), i realized that I had to go with the current, and try to navigate myself past the rock wall of the lighthouse to the other side of the island. just your random double o hurricane set coming in every 10 minutes to keep things interesting. anyway, i made a successful if hairy landing on the other side of the lighthouse from where I left, having effectively been carried from one side of this long island around the tip to the other side.

so remember to always respect the ocean and look out for currents, cause the great sea can often be much more powerful than you or me. otherwise, i'll be counting on you guys for the next month to keep me stoked, so share your waves, puhlease, and i'll stay as frothin'ly amped as I am right now. i just have to remember how connected my feet and waist felt to the board, flowing!, so i can pick right back up where I left off, peaking! adios my norcal amigos!

sic seshie, Jake!! great to hear that the hurricane ladies hooked you up! good luck with the surgery. heal quick and get back in the water soon!

sounds like i missed a schweet dp. typical. oh, well...hitting some fine single-track on my mtb this eve for one of the last weekday rides before we lose evening light...and, of course, gain morning light to lengthen dp time!! psyched!

JAKE! Nice post man! Hernia surgery? My buddy just had that. Glad to hear you were getting shizacked on the other side. I surfed Scripps again yesterday afternoon. Starting to find out it works much better on a medium/high tide with some swell. I'm really hoping that NW starts cruising down. Not really seeing very much of it yet. Anyway, it's definately an adjustment down here. Everyone surfs, you're aren't quite as unique doing it down here. Just another sheep in the heard. Half way through the week! Everyone keep their heads on straight!

Oh, and what happened to the side bar on the front page? With all the goodies in it?

yeah jake.. that sounds crazy! barrelled on Strong Island.. word!! it motivates me to search harder for the green room out here. Quick recovery to you my friend...

here's a pic of hurricane Kate..

whattup ian.. the sidebar is at the bottom of the homepage because i posted some huge pics that fucked up the formatting.. I could fix it with a little html'ing but i've been a lazy arse..

glad you're finding waves down south..

> it was the kind of session where you were as stoked to see anybody catch one of these beauties as if it were you.

pure niceness, jake! thanks for the long post.

dick, you'd be wise to take all the anti-softtop advice and jake's rip current story to heart. that's probably the biggest lesson regardless of your skill level: RESPECT THE OCEAN. be humble! be kind! i mean that in both the "pick up random trash" and the "she is WAY bigger than you!" senses.

good luck! spend lots of time at the spots where you can catch waves (not just float) and you'll improve quickly. bo*linas, cowell's and lindy are good bets. enjoy!

Washington Bouy is 37 ft @ 17 secs right now...

Looks like a good time for the SOJDF in Washington ... but here...winds will be up, and swell will close down the beach tomorrow by noon...word up...this one will be 12-15 ft 14 sec by noon Thursday..,pumping thumping trip on this...too bad winds are supposed to be up, could be fun...probably will be in a certain city to our south...but around here...too much juice for most spots...and for those spots that can take the juice, too much wind... but man, the SE Papa is pinging off the hook

whew... more appetizing graphics to drool over..

http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/images/maps/ganimnep.gif

It's almost like looking into the future.

Any chance of Maverick's going with this swell?

Always makes for good sightseeing.

Well, looks like I will be washing my triple overhead mush balls down with a cup of joe in the Slizz parking lot manana. The unruly beast has awoke from its summer hibernation for sure.

Bring it. As the BlakeMan points out, Papa is going balls out right now. Anyone even seen the coast in the last few hours? Downtown SF is clear and warm. SSF is clear and just a breath of wind. Coastal winds still look strong.

I bet Inside Mavs will be about 1/2 ft still and barrelling tomorrow. I AM ON IT!

Oh yeah, last night some of the local LDP's (Lindy Dolphin Posse) put on a sweet aerial show mid beach. Close encounters of the 5 foot kind. Thought one of those dawgs was going to tickle my booties and tow me into some nuggets. Waves were better then they looked too. Great time (on the Lindy scale of course).

Wow e, where's that bottom one? Kaiser, I had dolphins (about 8) swimming 15-20 from me. They were tossing sardines into the air and catching them. One was no more than 10 ft. in front of me. SO amazing. I could hear their little sonar squeals. Put the biggest smile on my face!

i think the last one is near salmon creek..

Ian, what time were you out? Lindy? Last night? Might have been sitting right next to you.

kaiser/tucker,

headed down there this afternoon on my bike. insides were breaking at low tide this afternoon. infrequent sets. just one guy out. bright board (orange-ish). maybe clark? shop was closed when i rolled past.

snapped a few pics, hustled over to the jetty and picked up fat crustacean for dinner, then rode home... not breaking so well here in m.....a btw... kinda unruly... better in the AM no doubt.

headed back tomorrow, to pick up some water testing gear, and will probably check again, given the buoy readings... the sun actually came out today, too (it's been scarce of late)... though the fog has rolled in since...

doh. forgot to sign that. time to put the bong down.

oh and, did you catch the image replacement for that kate shot, e? guess those varisty-drinking admins are a little touchy?! sheesh...

Damn! I bet Mavs will be monster mash tomorrow. Interesting...

Hi,

I've heard that there are a few fathers in this crew that swap babysitting duty? I have a 7 month old daughter and would like to figure out how to stay in the water as much as possible. Would like to hook up with other dads in the same boat.

I live in Bernal Heights and surf OB, LM, Montara, and other local breaks. For a good swell I'll drive to SC.

email me at josh@media-screen.com

Kaiser! Wha's up muh brutha. I was out at Scripps down here in San Diego. I just recently moved a few weeks ago. Anyone up for a visit?

oh where oh where has sunday gone...need to learn how to do the "dawn patrol" thing i hear people talking about on this site..i cant believe ahnold...is he gonna change our name to cauli-fornia? eh forgetaboutit...bad ass Japanese illustrator Tadahiro Uesugi...

http://www10.big.or.jp/%7Etuesugi/illustration/p4a05/p4a05.html

Cali buoy is starting to go off.

-d

Dang, I lost the post I just typed. I repeat: Tonight's new is calling for off-shores this weekend. I am skeptical though. Bouys are looking big. Could be a killer weekend.

Dick, first order of biz-you gotta change yur email address dude! Anyway, soft tops are best suited for beginner rental boards. They are a waste of $$ for purchase. You'll want to get rid of it after a month or so.

Friendly,
Thanks for the nice post the other day.

I dinged the bottom of my shortboard last week. Must have hit a rock in the beach break. I guess I'll play medic this weekend. No problemo, cuz I'll most likely be needing the big bomber anyway. I hate getting the first ding. It's not a new board anymore. But I like fixing dings cuz it's basically only art work I do, which is not too often.

Thanks for the mention e!! It seems cause of the time difference if I post I'm always the last of the day. Anyway I'll try and get a camera for some pics of the UK surf for you!! I leave on Friday and I'll be back in a week on Monday. I'll share some of my stoke filled experiences with you all.

By the way I asked about wave forcasting at the end of Sep and someone (didn't have a name) posted some very helpful links. So cheers mate!!!

Everyone catch some PHAT PHAT waves for me while I'm away!!

...MARINE WEATHER STATEMENT NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN FRANCISCO CA 430 AM PDT THU OCT 9 2003
... HIGH SURF ADVISORY TODAY FROM POINT ARENA TO POINT PIEDRAS BLANCAS...

A SERIES OF STRONG STORM SYSTEMS MOVING INTO THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST HAVE GENERATED LARGE SWELL OVER THE EASTERN PACIFIC. AT 4 AM THURSDAY MORNING THE WAVE RIDER BUOY AT POINT REYES WAS REPORTING SEAS OF 15 FEET WITH A PERIOD OF 15 SECONDS. SWELL UP TO 15 FEET ARE FORECAST TO SPREAD SOUTH TO POINT PIEDRAS BLANCAS BY LATE TODAY. IN ADDITION TO LARGE SWELL... GALE FORCE NORTHWEST WINDS ARE FORECAST DEVELOP OVER MUCH OF THE COASTAL WATERS BY LATE THIS AFTERNOON... AND ADD TO THE HAZARDOUS SEA CONDITIONS. SWELL HEIGHTS WILL SLOWLY SUBSIDE FROM NORTH TO SOUTH LATE TODAY AND TONIGHT.

MARINERS AND BEACH GOERS ARE URGED TO EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION DURING THIS FIRST HIGH SURF EVENT OF THE SEASON. THOSE IN AND NEAR THE SURF ZONE SHOULD TAKE NECESSARY ACTION TO PROTECT THEMSELVES AND PROPERTY FROM DANGEROUS SEA CONDITIONS.

Yet another local storm is forecast for the Gulf of Alaska starting late Thursday (10/9) and building into Saturday AM (10/11) with a short 18 hour window of 50-60 kts winds aimed right at Northern CA. This one is looking a bit stronger than it's predecessor. Yet another gale is forecast to follow this one on Monday (10/13), though weaker. No lack of swell generation potential for California expected as the Gulf of Alaska swell machine continues forecast to be cranking up.

COME ON WINDS... WORK WITH US...

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