buoys starting to get excited..
Large, rough and crazed out at the beach. Beautiful, daunting, blood-orange full moon looming over the ocean. I drove for a while and found some semi-protected waves. Big, lurching, untamed brutes that rarely offered palpable sections tumbled in.. I caught a few fun ones but overall had a dissapointing session... just couldn't find the flow, suffered a head-over-heels humbling wipe-out, and stood up on my leash on one of my better waves, causing some traction weirdness. Tom and i watched Christian, fresh off the plane from Brazil, bash the lip with authority on one wave. One other guy (really short Al Merrick board) caught a few nice ones and worked em' tenderly. There was also a squadron of seals catching waves. I did, however, enjoy one full-bodied cutty where i took off with good balance, went strait for a spell and let the speed build up, then crouched and leaned into my bottom turn, opening my shoulders to the face of the wave and pushing hard off my back foot.. then just unleashed everything i could into a full-bore cutback. In reality it probably looked like some weak dainty mini-turn but to me it felt like a monster power gauge.. soo.. that was nice..
by the looks of it, and via blakestah's report, it appears that we're in for a long stretch of macking swell.. killah!!
e
portugal
Hey, thanks for all the good advice yesterday about
the softtop board and other stuff.
I've ordered a wetsuit (O'Neill psycho 4/3), and as
soon as it gets here I'll head down to Linda Mar
(from Oakland) and try it on a rental board. I had
a lesson at Cowell's many years ago but never got
started surfing due to the obstacle of getting a
wetsuit and board, going down to Pacifica, etc.
Now my 16-year-old son has been wind-surfing and
wants to start surfing, so I think I'll do it this
time. (Also I'm getting tired of always being in
the same urban environment, and I welcome the
incentive to see some new places.)
Thanks again.
Posted by: Dick at October 9, 2003 10:53 AMDick
i hear mavs broke with lots of wind and bump...but it broke.
Posted by: tom at October 9, 2003 11:44 AMe, good to hear that you got some waves. i have to admit. i love watching these huge waves and all, but at the same time, i get kinda bummed. the only spots that are surfable within my "get to work on time" window are 3 spots. one is quite a ways down south and the other 2 are usually unreasonably crowded and vibey.
dick, fall/winter juice is upon us. unfortunately, there aren't a lot of protected spots around here, so i would stick to lindy for a while.
Posted by: lerm at October 9, 2003 11:50 AMwelcome back christian! can't wait to hear some stories.
Posted by: lerm at October 9, 2003 12:10 PMchristian - welcome back!! nice of you to bring the swell along with you! ; )
e, tom, and christian...nice work gettin' waves today! i drove the coast, but didn't find anything that looked tempting enuff given work time constraints. still...there's worse ways to start a day than a drive along the coast when the swell is starting to build!
Posted by: ck at October 9, 2003 12:15 PMwelcome back Christian! can't wait to hear about brazil, as well as all the upcoming action in norcal. hope you guys get your offshores in time for the Macker headed your way. thanks everyone for all the well wishes yesterday. peace!
Posted by: jake at October 9, 2003 12:24 PMWow, lotta swell coming. I have bad news though.. I'm overdrawn on my bank account with no job. haha. wow. Oh well, that swell better get down here to socal quick so I can forget about money problems! :D Christian, that's so rad you guys had a good time in Brazil! Can't wait to hear about it. Kaiser did you ever get any pics from your exotic wave chasing honeymoon? Jake how's it on the right coast? e, when you cruising down here for some waves? Anyone know of any jobs down here in San Diego (Pacific Beach/San Diego State & surrounding areas)? Blakestah thank you for the info. It's GREATLY appreciated!
Posted by: Ian at October 9, 2003 12:42 PMsunset suzy
Posted by: e at October 9, 2003 12:47 PMcan't wait to hear about Brazil, christian...sounds like a great trip.
Ian...what happened, busted already! Hope you find some fundage soon homey. Good luck, at least you got some swell to look forward to.
Beach looks gnarly on the cam right now.
Posted by: jdz at October 9, 2003 01:26 PMHaha jdz.. yeah. Oh well! Blakestah's page says "Welcome to Fall" YES! I would hate to be that last guy in the Sunset pic. I think they're snowboarding naked in that second picture. Did anyone ever get a chance to check out the surf art culture exhibit in San Jose? It was really good and I think it's still running (until Nov 15?) Yeah jdz, the ocean looks PISSED on the cams.
Posted by: Ian at October 9, 2003 01:36 PMPulled from slurfline
Now here's a worthy event: TALK STORY:
Posted by: Ian at October 9, 2003 01:45 PMTHE HISTORY OF COLD WATER SURFING BY THOSE WHO LIVED IT. On Sunday, October 12th at 3PM, at the San Jose Museum, NorCal surfing "classics" Patrick Farley, Doug Haut, Jane "The Lane" McKenzie, Johnny Rice, "Doc" Scott, and Kim Stoner tell it like it really was and is. Jonathan "Steiny" Steinberg, a solid member of the SC surfing community, assembled this fabled group and will be moderating their stories. RSVP recommended: SJMA Members: FREE; Non-Members $5 Call (408) 291-5386 to RSVP or purchase tickets in advance. For information on where to park when you visit downtown go to www.sjdowntownparking.com
Have any of you ever had the chance to read the old surfer magazines-like in the 60's. They had really cool stories about surf adventures and fictional stories-like surfing in the Alps on landslide waves.
If you ever get a chance to read some of the old mags, you should. Even the ads were better IMHO. The new mags are so packed with ads and have little substance, there almost painful to look at.
Maybe it's just my fond memories of my early days of surfing.
Posted by: Dennis at October 9, 2003 02:31 PM...big props for posting that last photo, e. the lady rips!!
Posted by: friendly at October 9, 2003 02:38 PMChristian, I missed you, man!
Posted by: blakestah at October 9, 2003 03:53 PMslates.. just a mini little turn
Posted by: e at October 9, 2003 04:34 PMzoom in...
Posted by: e at October 9, 2003 04:46 PMi want one of those white wetties!!! seriously.. that would be dope..
Posted by: e at October 9, 2003 04:57 PM
Posted by: at October 9, 2003 07:47 PMsleep little surfers sleeeeep...ill be working...about to take a golden arches break..need to surf must make deadline...no more computer...headache...
welcome back christian!
Posted by: bagel at October 9, 2003 09:59 PMuh oh...High pressure coming in...im scared allready
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