E's Surf Report

are we still reading?!? you betcha, and SALIVATING too!! thanks for the hour by hour surf narrative e. i'm sure many others out of the water were equally stoked by your words and waves. with your lady and otherwise fun sb atmosphere, sounds like a very dope weekend!!

if you get a chance at work today, try to give me a holler. i'm thinking about booking a plane ticket today... word. can't wait to read everyone else's goods!! payce!

ill just cut and paste what i just wrote earlier today:

thanx for the ear recs everybody, still clogged..hope fully today i will be able to take care of it....awesome weekend of waves (not that homie plays that) kind of beating myself up for not trying sloat on saturday..awesome spectical at ob...props to all you guys charging that action, especially this one boogie boarder i saw out by himself yesterday morning at vf's..saw 4 guys attempt to paddle none sucessfull, big and ugly...wish i would have remembered to watch the air show....

actually i saw some of the shallowest looking, gnarliest, suckingest, explodingest barrels ive seen at ob yesterday am at vf's..

sounds like a dope weekend e...man, poor santa barbbarians..

i hung out all saturday morning waiting for the fog to clear, even drove down to HMB and back, but had to be somewhere at 1pm so i bailed. i returned and surfed kelly's at like 4:30 for about 45 minutes. big and bumpy, lotsa paddling and not that fun. sunday though.... holy shit it was going off! no wind at all, surfed from like 1-3pm just south of kellys. waves kinda dropped and were blasting into the inner bars. tons of barrels and ramps. bummed i ate a full -n bacon and eggs breakfast right before and was totally sluggish, but still had a blast. after work today???

e was the left you surfed saturday north or south of avila? you've got me curious.

Modified version of the Surfrider group paddle DID go down. Only 5 or so went out, but I think everyone managed to rope 2-3 bombs. All in all, a successful day, and a good beach clean up afterwards. Sunday beach clean up had a great turnout also, ~30 peeps, lots of full bags of trash, plus one discarded microfiche reader. I thought librarians would be more responsible with their trash. SS, glad you could stop by on saturday.

e - Thanks for the Central Coast low-down. It's a whole different deal south of Big Sur.
I finally got back in the water over the weekend. An old back injury had me drydocked for more than a month, so I'm limited to basic get-back-in-shape sessions at Pedro and other kooky spots for the time being.
Late Friday afternoon found me at Boatdocks in mediocre mush with the usual crowd. On my first waves in nearly 6 weeks, I felt like a marionette with several clipped strings. Midday on Sunday I was at an undisclosed location across a bridge - slightly better surf, and my performance picked up too (slightly). However, the crowd was beyond insane! Regardless, it sure feels good to be back surfing again - I was getting downright cranky/unfit for human consumption. I'll get wet later today; just for the paddle, if nothing else.

Adam, Almost everybody roped a couple bombs. I, on the other hand, got roped by a couple (or more) bombs. Early season psych out struck me down. But it's like falling off a horse. Gotta get back up and do it again. The energy of the water felt good though. I hope to hit it this evening with a vengence. Stroke hard, grit my teeth, don't look down and go for it. Or maybe get a pizza... No! I'll go for it.

bbr.. south of avila.. the same wave was pretty mushy on sunday afternoon but with the lower tide on saturday morning is was working.. email me and i'll email you specifics if you want.. it's not that random of a wave.. we just got really lucky with the crowd on saturday.. i have no idea why!!

Wow, sounds like there were waves to be had from those with the guts to go for it! everyone's predictions about the crowds thinning out turning out to be true. I myself was too intimidated to paddle out when I couldn't see anything but could just here "Crash" "Smash" "Boom". Good for those who went for it!

E, the trip sounds great. Isn't California a great place to live and surf?

thanks for the video, blakestah. pretty rad stuff, very fun to watch. props to those charging the bombs.

question: i know bali (and the rest of the south pacific) is now moving into its offseason... but i read a lot of reports calling indo more 'year-round' than other spots... anyone know much about the swell i might find in late nov. / early december? will i see weeks and weeks of flatness? or will a random cyclone or north shore spot give me something to ride? thanks for any input.

jake.. i'll give you a call today after work and devulge the indo info i know..

check out baliwaves.com and email the guy who runs it with your questions.. he's super friendly and helpful.. he'll know all the off season stats..

thanks for the tips, e and christian. i'm just starting to uncover some more info on this wetseason niceness on the east coast. gratzie!

right on, so im gonna ask some of you chargers for a bit of words of wisdom from a guy that wants to try to be more comfortable suiting up when i see shit like this weekend...im figuring its pretty much mental..like if your hearts beating normaly and your not freaked out i imagine that you would do pretty good out in those monsters...like i think k-dalle said "its only water" seems thats the attitude to have...i think my attitude is "thats a whole shit load of water!!, like 200 fire hoses taped together and going full blast on my head burying me in a dirty ob sandbar, thats if i get that deep in which case my head might explode from the pressure!!" hence freaking myself out and driving to more crowded waves..im figuing the only cure is to be confident, but if any of you guys have anything that helps you out..maybe something that goes through your head when your looking at double the size of this weekends ob, that would be cool to hear (im sure for some of you thought its just plain exitement)..i can take my answer off the air...he he..

JACKSON/or anyone that knows Jackson, your board is fixed and I can't find your number- please call me at: 699-2380 and come pick it up. (please send the message along if you know his number...)
Alex Martins

bagel, I go through this every dang season cuz I don't have the confidence of some folks out there. Get out there and get used to it. For me, after a couple scoreless sessions I get pissed off at myself and that makes me go for it. Scoreless session numero uno is out the way for me now. Just need to make that first drop. Then it's OK. If you watch, you very rarely see people 'not' making the drop on bigger days. partly cuz they're good, but mostly cuz the drop is not as bad as the imagination makes it out to be. (I pumping myself up as I write this). Correct me if I'm wrong anyone.

Hell, if those guys can take off on 35 foot Mavs or get pounded by 60 foot Jaws, I can take whatever a 12 footer can dish out.

See you out there.

wow! what a weekend! so sweet to read accounts of assorted niceness cats scorin' this weekend! whether it be plate-glass peelers or huge bombers at the beach! sic.

as for me, after a humbling sesh mid-beach Friday morning (that i've chalked up as a good "character-building" experience! ; ) my lady and i headed south toward SC. as others have said, SC was absolutely going off!! conditions were so beautiful that i found myself sitting in the line-up just marvelling at the clean, peeling lines....and the sic rippers! hit the Lane on Friday eve and P.P. on Saturday. managed a few killah rides that -- compared to the typical beach-break fare -- just went on...and on...and on. frickin' fantastic to actually be up and riding long enough to start thinking about subtleties of foot placement and lining up for a deliberate move or two!! however, i gotta say that SC lived up to it's other moniker...Santa Crowded! so many amazing waves, but so few for a non-local trying to pick off scraps in a non-offensive way. (note to self: further motivation to improve!)

headed further south Saturday afternoon. camped out and then hit a fine spot a bit off the beaten track on Sunday. not exactly a "secret spot" as there was still a bit of a crew to contend with, but the vibe was friendly and after a couple of hours we'd both picked off enough waves to satiate our wave-hungry souls.

we drove back exhausted from a weekend of sun and waves...and talking about how lucky we are to live in CA.

E--that was a great read--thanks for sharing! Gotta say I got a bit misty hearing about the 'family-style' C.point. Good folks out there, lotsa stoke and smiles. Yeah, SB takes some patience (and a quiver that includes a longboard) but it is great place. I'm glad you enjoyed your visit--sounds like you got a good taste of the SB I love. Cheers!
oh yeah--it was also fun to hear how you really incorporated the little lady's input and started feeling the change so quickly. I've got a substantial backside railgrab issue myself and it drives me crazy sometimes.

yo e!

got the word on your DOB...

happy 13,595th day (or 29th year) IN ONE WEEK!

Bagel, I think I just had this discussion post seshy yesterday w/ some bros. Disclaimer: Let me first state that I didn't go out Saturday at OB and I surfed some juice north of Santa Cruz on Sunday. However, I fully agree with what Dennis said... You just gotta go!

I think the first "big" wave experience of the season is good to get under your belt. Either you are the type that wants to go out and eat shit on the first wave to know the limits of the "worst case" or you are the type that just wants to survive that first drop. Either way, its all confidence and building that confidence to scratch over the top of whatever wave comes at you next.

Yesterday, the first 2 waves I could (and should) have caught, I just wasn't mentally committed. That was not only dangerous but really bad. On the 3rd wave that came my way, there was no doubt, I just went full on... For me, this is the only way to get the jitters out. If you make it, sweet. If you don't, once you resurface, get a system-check and get back out for another wave until you make it. Luckily, I made it. And I made the next 6 drops afterwards. Beeming with confidence. Made OB look like summer wind swell this morning. No problems.

One thing I did learn this weekend is that the proper equipment is essential to putting yourself in position to actually ride bigger waves. I think I have to thank Christian a bit for that one.

bagel - first, get the right equipment. If you are just learning outer bar surf, I'd recommend something close to 8'6", 2 7/8" thick or thicker, 19.5" wide or wider, gun shaped, preferably glassed on fins. This is super super essential. If someone tells you they only need a 7'6" for days like this weekend, they are either REALLY REALLY good or REALLY REALLY ignorant. Either way their advice in invalid for you. If you decide to play it safe, GET AN EVEN BIGGER BOARD. Smaller is not safer, you should not try to "get used to" a 7'6" before you ride an 8 footer outside. Get a big hunk of foam - when you start catching a lot of waves you can go to something smaller - it'll be a while anyway.

Next, you gotta learn the paddle. This is a LONG learning curve. Watch other surfers that make it easily. Experiment with paddling/diving techniques. Get in really good shape. And keep trying. After a few years days that seemed impossible will become straightforward. Then you get older and they become hard again, but that is another story. Don't quit - OB is not for quitters!

Once out, that is not all. You gotta make a faster steeper drop than you've probably ever seen. Just look for waves where you can take off into the shoulder quickly, and make the drop and get off the back. Then, start to look for drop-ins into thicker faces, later, deeper. It actually becomes super super fun when you've got the paddle down, and you begin to look at ways of getting deeper on the outer bars, getting barreled, getting long steep rides. For me, it took 3-4 years once I had a big board to get fairly comfortable on the outside.

I started taking my longboard out (9' - fairly high performance - for a long board) last year on outer bar days. And it opened up a whole new world for me. Taking off way early, lots of managable speed, although - a little harder to manuaver - But I will sacrficie that for getting in earlier and having the confidence that comes with more foam. Just don't get caught inside...

Blakestah is right - you simply need more foam under you. And on days where we have a nice ,long interval swell with defined channels, the paddle can be easier than expected (although longer).

Some interesting comments. i have been surfing OB for about 12 years now and rarely have i had fun on the outerbars. because i am a wuss basically, i have a shorter board and i am outa paddling shape. this summer i have really re-dedicated myself to surfing and working out. i just got a new 7'2" for the smaller days on the outside and the bigger inside days. i totally missed the weekend i was in flat sunny Miami checking out hot latinas. i am going to take a different approach to the bars this season...work my way up as much as the board and my nads can handle. the few times i was outside i just got abused because i couldnt get into the waves soon enough and was always behind the shoulder. i hope to have better luck, strength and sack as the season moves on.
--more foam is good. i think i will eventually want an even larger board but for now i will try my luck at anything under DOH.

My current self-prescription for huge outer bar OB days?
... drive south..

maybe in a few years..

but.. another thing i've learned is that i'm not a "big wave guy".. i'd take perfect/barreling/head-high reef break over perfect DOH outerbar OB everytime.. you guys are core..

bagel-blakestah said it right. More foam + more experience = comfort level. But there is also an element of personal desire and willingness to push your limits a little each time you go out. Very few competent surfers drown. I think it was Jeff Hakman who said when he first moved to Hawaii his Dad paddled him right into the impact zone in large Sunset Beach. When he realized he could survive that he never looked back. The rewards far outweigh the risks in most cases. There is nothing like taking off on a really big, smooth OB peak.

e...I think I'm with you on this one. Unless I get to the point where I feel super strong paddling/stamina/swimming I think I will max out at the head-high/little overhead range. And take pictures on the bigger days. The few times where i have made it out on bigger days (and these were probably not even DOH) I just didn't have the stamina to keep going(aside from being completely undergunned). Felt like I was dodging freight trains...but the few that I actually got...amazing. You definitely have to be in great shape to make it fun.

E? Is it your birthday?

as for the more foam element...Bob Wise talked me into buying an 8'0" Roger Hinds a couple of years back. Makes a HUGE difference...and honestly a few more inches would'nt be so bad either.

mid OB: I don't know how to accurately describe it. Swell's definitely come down since yesterday, down even further from earlier today, but remnants of the weekend juice still remain. Invigorating looking paddle. BEAUTIFUL day, sunny and calm, but the waves seem disorganized. Tending towards heavy mush . See maybe 2-3 peeps in totally different spots...bobbing around the lulls in the outer bars. When it's hitting those bars they're mushing out...er the waves I mean, not the people. Hard to tell actual face size but guestimate up to 6 foot on the workishable ones? Saw one guy juuust miss a takeoff ( not enough speed, went out the back) only to get MOWED by a much bigger, sneaker 2nd wave that piggy-backed the first. D'oh! Haven't we all been there?! [ in my case on a micro scale ]

e, ck : congrats on some killer weekends! Pure vida. I gots to get around to doing that ...

Happy surfing,

anybody taken a look at the beach this afternoon. still holding together?

Bagel,I think I have seen you surf, and you more than a lot of us have the stuff for "Norcondito".

Since we are on the subject of OB, here is a little email from Christian, probably one of the few takers during that Saturday morning whiteout. Christian is WAY too modest to post the following here. (Christian please forgive me for going for it!):

-----------------------------
i don't know what happened that day.
i just woke up with this crazy drive and
i had to do it. nico was in german school
for 3 hours so i couldn't wait for the fog
to go away. so, i just went for and it was gnarly.
here is the stats of the session:

-37 minutes to make it out
-7 giant bombs on my head
-infinite bombs on my head
-4 bombs ridden (one all the way in)
-2 1/2 hour of brutal workout
-no broken leash
-no broken board
-1 big smile on my face.

when i left the water i was at taraval and had no idea. i walked back to the lot at sloat to be a little mobbed by everyone to know how it was or if i had even made it out.

it was a special day!
--------------------------

Yeah, Christian!

That smile was big, more like an ear to ear grin.

3 guys made it out in the soupy, foggy, bone-crushing mess before the fog lifted: Christian + 2 others that said they came in near the horse stables past Olympic Club.

Shout out to my boy Warewolf who killed it Saturday with Ryan (the guy in Blakestahs vid). Brass Ball Award to both you chaps. Christian gets one too of course.

mid OB fyi: increasing moosh. Outer bars going bye-bye. Good luck!

E, glad to hear you had fun in SB. Campus point can actually get pretty fun on the right swell. Its usually full of a bunch of college kids who are learning to surf and are just out to have fun. I was fortunate enough to live right along that beach for a couple years.

To further add to the comments about getting a big board for outer bar days - bigger is better. I’ve only had a few smaller days out there as this is only my second fall at OB, however, after one two many trips over the falls because of late drops on my 6’ 6” I decided I needed something bigger. I bought what I thought was a pretty decent sized board (7’2” – that’s the largest board I’ve ever ridden) that would let me get into anything I guts enough to take. As my confidence grew so did the size of the waves that I wanted to take and I am once again limited and I am again taking really late and scary drops. While the board was enough for Kellys Cove on Sat I wish I had another foot or so of board so I could attempt something like the south end of the beach this weekend.

thats rad christian..talk about confidence..damn..thanx for the words everyone!..i wish my dad pulled me into the impact zome at huge sunset when i was a kid, i was freaked out enough when he took me out on what must have been a knee high day at PB in san diego, on a boogie board! (so maybe its his fault either way!!ya!!)..seems like that jeff hackman thing makes alot of sense actually, as the times when ive been hesitant to paddle out and totally nervous...its usually not as bad as i think its gonna be..mind you i didnt even think about paddling out when it was macking this weekend..

the biggest board i have is a 7'0 and ive alwayse told myself if i need more board than that i aint goin out..something i may just stand by....but i was just so stoked watching these guys drop in on some of those waves i saw at sloat saturday midday..im just trying to see if i can get pumped as i want to push myself a little this season..please, no one hold me to that!..he he..thanx for the help everyone, interesting..

ps. did anyone see sutro ruins looking the most rideable ever sunday morn? i swear i saw like 3 really good looking peaks come in over there one after the other..anyone ever surfed there?

christian.. deeeamnn!! nice!!

from joe's hawaii blog

WIKID!!awesome story Christian..inspiring, and spooky at the same time...i would never have thought of dealing with the possibility of breaking a leash or board and relying only on physical strength to get out of OB...mommy? fuzzy blankets?..just out of curiosity, if you have a second, what was your escape plan?..im sure christian has some sort of aqua-man powers and homie can throw out some vibes and all sea life would come hook a brother up..

Blakestah, thanks for posting the video. Christian, way to charge... I'll stick to my fuzzy blankets. Not too bad having them land on your head.

-d

siiiick Christian!! you are the MAN!

ya, i love getting worked by fuzzy blankets! he he

sorry for opening my big yap so much today...g'night all..props to the chargers and i aint talking about san diego...

christian...enjoyed reading that very much! Wish I had been there to watch. And please post again when you have another go out that inspires like Saturday.

oh and bagel...as a fellow Socal tranny...did you ever, ever once worry about breaking your leash or board while out on a "big" day down south...I can't ever remembering thinking that...whole different world.

shiet!...there's a whole 'nother world out there! thanx for sharing christian. very cool to hear about such a raw experience (and one that i doubt i'll ever have anything close to the skill to experience directly) from the front-lines.

If you break your board on such a day, you swim.

A long way.

I broke 4 boards last year. The swim is uneventful. You take your time, make steady progress, and kiss the sand when you get there. Sometimes there is a crowd there wondering if you are about to drown. ;)

A leash is easier - the board rarely goes from the outer bars to the beach. It usually goes a few hundreds yards and hangs in the channel.

Thought I'd share this exchange with the crew here.....from us Sonoma County crew. Notice on my part I blanked out the name of the spot. And NO I wasn't surfing M_ B__T_B:

What is Happening Here?

The past couple of weeks have been some of the most surreal in my 25+ years of surfing. Last weekend at BoBo Land porpoises were in the water, coming right up to me and letting me pet them. This weekend surfing well overhead surf at Dillon I dropped in on several seals surfing a big left. Yeah, I know, some of you are saying "Mike's always dropping in on somebody."
Well this was just a killer left! Anywho, I'm standing as a seal jumps out of the water behind me, and to onlookers, it appeared he was trying to kick me off. I have not surfed with a orpoise
or a seal on the wave since my grom days in Florida. It really makes you wonder what is going on out there. Are the other mammals getting friendlier or are we seeing an increase
in aggro behavior? All I know is i have really been digging the new locals!

Hey tubes,
OK – Now this is freaking me out. I surfed ______ Sunday morning (for the first time in my the 9-yrs I've live up here), and there was a dolphin there doing exactly the same thing. I mean he let us reach out and touch him. It was like a playful kitten scampering around me, then the best part: I took off on these hammering glassy lefts (well overhead), and each time he would follow me on the roller coaster ride down-the-line. I didn’t know this was happening but the guys in the line-up could see through the back of the wave what was happing. Then, I’d kick-out and start to paddle back (which was usually a pretty long paddle ;} ) and he/she would be follow me back frolicking and jumping the whole way back to do it again with the next guy to take off. I am not exaggerating, but I saw this dolphin actually leap out and over my friend drew as he was paddling back from a wave, just like some Marine World show.

This couldn’t be the same dolphin that you were mentioning,….could it? Anyway, this dolphin was playing, not trying to kick us out. It was like he was trying to play the same way we were playing,….or teach us the way he plays. Awesome, just thought I’d share that.

Jack

This for Jimmy - Hola Tocayo (Mexican slang for a guy with the same name as you). I'm probably making way too much outta this, but I wanna be sure folks don't get us mixed up - especially when discussing BIG Ocean Beach, since I don't paddle out when it's over eight feet. Hell, I only go out on solid overhead days at Ocean Beach when I'm feelin' very together - rarely more than a half dozen times a season.
I will try to remember to always include the first initial of my last name.
O.K. enough outta me!
Pau,
Jimmie M.

damn, so cool: party waves with dolphins, SB pushing the good vibe, big OB survival guidance and christian's weekend recount...thanks, niceness! what a sweet nightcap. i was watching 6-8 heads straight out from the beach chalet on saturday around 12:00...unreal!!! my friend and i were basically cheering from beach everytime someone nailed a drop. huge props to those who went for it this weekend, and liberty and niceness for all...yeehoo!

Jack-
Surfed that same spot on Sat AND Sunday. The dolphin (actually there were two of them at one point on saturday) were there both days. One of the most amazing experiences I have ever had in the water. You described it perfectly. The dolphin was going from surfer to surfer, hanging out, swimming around and underneath us, keeping everybody company. An inch away from me at times. Unbelievable. He/she definitely got his/her fair share of waves as well. Amazing creatures . . . Almost as amazing as that wave, eh?

s

One of the hundred at Bobo. Saw the dolphin - nice also cause their rep is they don't like sharks (dominate, nose-but them or something like that). Regarding the seal thing, I saw a seal get barreled at inside OB a few weeks ago! Popped out on the wave face just as it was jacking up and was in the pocket as it threw. Not a top to bottom tube but I was still amazed. Maybe the animals are starting/trying to get on our wavelength. As long as the groups of sea lions don't get too heavy. Earlier.

ur acharger faka

need less writting and more pics bro

fix it please

Just reading up on some of this lately, was interesting.

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