E's Surf Report

crazy but fun down there. surfed big ob last night with kaiser. couldn't see it from the shore due to the incoming fog. 40 duck dives later I was out and realized that my 6'8 wasn't the best board for these waves.

i found some booties last night at sloat. email me if ya forgot 'em.

mid OB: too foggy to tell, but it's slowly burned off enough I can barely see closest inside bars. The bigger insiders not closing out entirely but dunking over in chunks. Suspect repeat conditions of yesterday, poss. windier?

Christian: SHOUTOUT on your epic session this weekend! I regretted not congratulating you in person right there but didn't want to block traffic! Congrats on super skill, smarts, guts, and pure living instead of existing...! :)

been hearing things about a uber-friendly, super playful dolphin somewhere near Smiley's in marin.

wonder if it's the same one???

hey e, instead of your words making me stoked like usual, this morning they made me cold! brrrrr!! it was nice to hear about that spot though... i for one was often abused there with unusual regularity... often more meat on the head then wave for my stick. anyway, the icy chill you imbued me with was good motivation to fix up my wetsuit...

cause I just booked my ticket back to california... woohoo! i'll be in town by halloween, though not cleared to surf until a week later. i look forward to dp'ing with many of you then, and of course, dumping some buckets on kaiser sose's head.

i just have to hope they let me bring my wetsuit on the plane... i fear they may consider it 'dangerous and toxic material'... after I left it sitting in a bucket of sea water post surf for 2 weeks (not sure what I was thinking)... it's the narstiest now... when I opened the bucket it appeared that my wetsuit was on the verge of becoming alive... a week longer and some strange combination of chemicals may have spawned life... but I've cleaned it now, and if the stench shuns the crowds away from me, so be it. ;)

a speedy recovery to blakestah, and don't worry christian, nobody thought you were being pompous... everyone was just psyched to get an inside look at a world of experience few of us have known. see you folks soon. :)

awesome christian! thanx man..uuuh ya, thinking about it, i guess swimming is the only option. unless of course you could get a hold of that dolphin, which makes me think about that whole water craft thing at mavericks, maybe we can train dolphins to save guys at mavericks! dont they spy for us or something allready? ill work on getting that implemented..

and jdz not to open a whole can of worms, but yes, down south it didnt really seem like you had to worry to much about breaking leashes or boards..there are of course heavy spots in so cal when it gets big and i have been freaked out plenty of times..it just seems being stranded with just your body in big ob would be reeeally f'ed up..to me at least

good luck with the shoulder b-stah

No....the experience I described wasn't at Bolinas (although apparently the dolphin play was happening there also). The guys where I surfed were giving me the big-time "stink-eye" for showing up at their spot (or God's spot, or whoever "owns" that spot). I won't name it.

blakestah! get better quick!
jake - psyched to puff and jam and shred with ya!

check this out.. farkin' gnarlesburg swiss cheese!

I don't know whether it's right to put the cart before the horse in explaining what has happened and how I'm doing, but it's easier for me, so please understand and bear[sp] with me.

My condition is this, I have a deep laceration which required many stitches, that runs from under my left eye, where my board initially impacted and entered my face, down through the base of the left side of my nose and under my nostrils. Like an L hook. In simple words, my nose was hanging by a thread.

Due to the impact of my board and the blunt force that I endured in the accident, I fractured and collpased my entire septrum. Which externally is the part of your nose that you hang your glasses on (the bridge), or the frame or foundation of your nose. Internally, my septrum is history, I have a huge hole in the left side of my nose as well as my face. And most likely will, depending on any complications short or long term, and the overall natural healing process, may need additional surgery to remedy permanent bleeding or breathing problems. As it stands now, I have 2 nostrils, but really one. I may also need cosmetic surgery to repair the bridge of my nose, should that interfere with my breathing through my nose in the future.

In addition to almost losing my nose, and all that has been mentioned above, I have a severely bruised cheek & jaw bone due to the impact that that side of my face took from the board.

I also, due to the severity and depth of the cuts, cut some major nerves in my face, nose and mouth, which has left the left side of my face numb and somewhat paralyzed. Whether it's permanent or not, time will tell. Some nerves repair themselves in time, could be up to 8-9 months before I know, others require surgery to repair the nerve endings, and surgery doesn't guarantee feeling or future muscle movement. I also have no feeling of my top of my mouth which includes my gums and teeth, as well as my tounge~!

That pretty much sums up the extent of my injuries~!

How and why this happened, and how it could've been prevented or not, could and can be debated at lengths with no real right or wrong answer.

I'm at odds with what happened and why, and can actually go both ways on it.

Some would say it was a fluke accident, others, including myself might say it was just an accident waiting to happen, based on the conditions and what I was doing~!

Without going into the details that led up to this unexpected session, as I was not planning on surfing that day. I went down to my new local break here in SC after seeing some encouraging reports that a new S/SW was filling in, and just wanted to see what was on tap. I also knew the tide was extremely low and wouldn't help conditions whatsoever.

So I got down to the check-out spot, saw that is was glassy, clean and green and no-one out. The waves were somewhat inconsistent due to the low tide, but a solid chest to head high on the sets. It was also breaking very fast, very hard, and in very shallow waters, like 1-2 feet above the sandbars. It almost had that Racetrack, Uluwatu look to it. So I charged it, knowing that I just wanted to get wet, pull into a few and get back for the Cubbies game.

So I got out there, and sure enough it was as I described, lined-up, super-fast, hollow, mostly unmakeable barrels that were dumping into a foot of water.

I spent the first half hour pulling into some really clean barrels, with no exits in sight, and just enjoying the view from within as I pumped through each barrel trying to get deeper, faster and go further. I hit the bottom several times if not on all of my initial waves.

It was about 45 minutes into my session when I took off on one of the bigger waves that I caught, about head high, and dropped in pumped down the line as it began to pitch out in front of me. It eventually threw out over me and I continued to drive thru it till it imploded from within. At that point, being seperated from my board I proceeded to go out the back as you normally would in that sitch, and WHAM~!

It hit me so hard, that I began to see stars and almost blacked out or passed out. At this point, in the span of a fuggin milli-second, I realized I was ALONE and NOONE was on the beach, I could not allow myself to pass out or lose consciousness, as it was likely I would drown with noone around to help. So I fought with all my energy to get up off the bottom and get to the surface. It was when I broke the surface that I realized that not only had I been hit and almost renedered unconscious, but that I was bleeding and bleeding bad. I must've hit a major artery in my face cause it was like a water fountain, it was throwing blood 8-10 feet out in front of me and when I tried to apply pressure it seems it only got worse, cause the wound was so wide and very deep.

I noticed as I carried myself to the beach, that there were people on the cliffs looking at the surf. I screamed and motioned for them to come help me, which just made the bleeding even worse. Noone came, noone even moved in the slightest. Maybe they couldn't see with the glare, maybe they didn't care, but I didn't have time to figure it out, as I was starting to go into shock, I was losing alot of blood and more by the second, and I couldn't afford to pass out due to shock or to not make it up the cliffs and to my car or eventual help. So I proceeded to walk as calmly as I could to the cliffs, there I noticed two seperate joggers, I motioned with what little energy I had left in me for help, they both continued to run with no offer of assistance. I don't know why and I can't even fathom it, but I still had to get up this cliff, as I continued to bleed and bleed and bleed.

I finally made it to the top, I flagged down a passing car, THEY stopped, they ran into there home got towels and called 911. Minutes later the SCFD was there, followed by an ambulance. I was put into the ambulance and was rushed to Mission Hospital Trauma Center, where they initially refused to see me when they called in en route because they were already full. But my paramedics insisted that I needed immediate attention and would require a neuro & plastic surgeon and this was the only facility within 100 miles that had them on call at all times.

So I got there, and had to sit in the waiting room holding my nose and face together with a blood soaked towel for nearly 3 hours, without pain killers, before they could get me into a doctor. Then I was told it would be another 3 1/2 hours before I could get into emergency surgery. I just assumed the pain and was grateful to be alive and in a hospital.

It could've been worse, I could've been knocked out and drowned, I could've been hit higher up and had brain damage, or lost my eye, or cut my throat, etc...

It was at this time (8:00ish) that Kenny (OTF) was called. My lady was out of town on business, my parents and family were too far away to get there quickly enough, and he (Kenny) was the closest one to me, and closest in proximity.

He was there in a flat second..............

OTF, came into my room where I was awaiting my doctor and surgery and just reassured me that things would be OK and stayed at my side until I was wheeled off to surgery, which fortunately for me, I only had to wait another 1/2 hour and not the 3+ hours they had initially forecasted.

I was in surgery for 2-3 hours, as they put my nose back together, pulled chunks of fiberglass from my nose and throat, and did there magic.

When I came through, like an Angel at my side, there was my best friend, my angel (tears running down my face as I write this) Kenny/OTF sitting there, by my side as further reassurance that I was NOT ALONE.

I LOVE YOU BRO, no words will EVER be enough, I'm indebted to you for life. Thanks for being there in my DARKEST moment.

I have much more that I would like to say about my experience, the lessons to be learned, both in the water and out, and many other things that I observed and took away from this experience that I would like to share with you all in hopes it will be helpful to some if not all of you in the future.

But for now, I need to get back to resting and let the healing process do it's thing.

I'll post again soon.

Until then........

Thanks again for ALL of your prayers, well wishes and concerns~!

A humbled, overwhelmed and most appreciative,

Jeff

Damn Jeff. Get better soon bro. I'm pulling for you and sorry about the Cubbies.

Big thanks to Roberto, Renan and Christian for taking care of me when I got 38 stitches charging late at heaving 2 foot overhead Montara.

ya speedy recovery jeff...sounds like you got a good attitiude..take care..

sorry christian and tom.. i should have explained that post a little more clearly.. Jeff (Casurfer) is a guy on the surfermag.com discussion forum who posted that message.. i copied and pasted it here..

i wanna shred like this..

What not to do

Hi yall. I just got back from a brief outing at Rivera. A friend and I paddled out (or tired to) in heavy fog. Got my ass kicked not so much by the size but by the small period. Wave after wave. Right when I was about to turn back for the shore I made it out side. Waves came in here and there and I was unable to get on a peak. Couldn’t see the shore, couldn’t see the waves coming in until they were on top of me. Some of the waves out there were walled up and pealing and about 5 feet. A way outside set came in and I took the white-water to the shore. My friend was standing on the beach and was glad to see me emerge from the fog. Felt good to make it outside at least. BTW: Kelly’s looked much better. Not so wild.

woah. get well soon, jeff.

i busted my nose at 26th ave once. heavy little wave... and then busted my left zygoma (bone under eye) and nose again last year at the jetty, on one of those freaky double-up inside tube sections where the bottom just drops right out.

doctor told me if i hadn't had a nose guard on my board, i'd have lost the eye. as it is i've got partial vision loss in it, possibly related to the blunt force trauma (& subsequent edema).

i dunno if you are reading this jeff, but i had nerve damage in my face too from the impact. it DID heal.. and it is almost 100% now... but it took several months to regain feeling in my cheek, nose, part of my lip, and under my eye.

anyone else braved the fog today. wondering what it was like at the north end.

geez grant.. that's gnarly.. good on ya for charging forth with the surf..

unnngh, one two one two, one two one two.

long time since i've been in the niceness neck of the world. work and a barrage of weddings on the opposite side of the country have beat me down. too much flying/working/flying. ugh, anyways, sounds like everybody has been getting some insane surf.

about that dolphin story....insane. that sounds like a dream, especially if it were in a tropical locale and there were women on the beach cheering you on.

phone is ringing - oh my God.

j - you need a surf trip! bad!!

as your resident surfing m.d. i prescibe a 3 week boat trip to the Cook islands.. STAT!!

holy crap...that injury sounds absolutely horrible. Hope he has a smooth recovery. I have to believe that that kind of thing is just so completely random and rare. At least that is what I'm gonna keep telling myself.

Had a short but sweet seshie out at norc...didn't see any dolphins our there. Actually caught a wave that connected all the way through, which, in a sea of closeouts was quite nice.

And bagel...I should probably say that, actually, there were some big days down at rincon, oxnard shores and overhead that freaked me out but good as well. But I just don't remember feeling as small as I do at OB on the bigger day.

shiet. injuries new and old. to grant...glad to hear that things healed up well and that you never let it slow you down. to Jeff...i wish you a speedy and full recovery. i can't believe that no one helped you! that's amazing....and pathetic! folks are so scared to get involved. way to tough it out and great to see friendship come through.

e, I almost chundered paddling out this morning from the major cold water ice cream headache I got duck diving about 10 waves. I almost turned around since I was feeling so queasy. All I was thinking about were my fuzzy blankets!

-d

P.S. Blakestah, good luck with at the docs today. We need to get you back out there so we can live vicariously through your posts the life of an OB rhino charger.

would you go on this?

smooth..

OB: The celestial beings have seen fit to take a gigantic eraser and smite the entire world beyond the great highway divider. Visibility zero. Fog 1.

Best to Jeff and Blakestah...

Injuries suck. Best to all who have been, currently are, and will be injured.

About the ice cream headaches, what's the scoop on hoods? Not hoods attached to wetties but stand-alone hoods? I've never surfed with one and have heard more than a couple stories about them coming off or sliding down over your face on big wipeouts but have been considering checking out a hoodie to deal with the frigidity mentioned by e. Thoughts?

How about a swim cap? Totally kookish?

I redeemed myself last night from the Saturday scoreless session. The surf dropped in size from the weekend but I went out with the right attitude last night and caught some semi-bombs on the outside.

Before I got to the beach I knew I would be comfortable in the water regardless of size. I was actually disappointed that it wasn't bigger. I expect to be back on track for the rest of the winter. It's mostly in the head ya know.

On safety: I seem to think (care) more about it as I get older. This year I added a helmet to my arsenal. It stills feels a little wierd to wear it. Not physically weird, just well odd and conspicuous. Actually it does keep my head nice and toasty in the cold water and my scalp doesn't get burned on sunny days (a recent phenomenon prolly related to the disapearing ozone layer;).

Those dang sharp fins... Nine stitches in my chin many years ago with a fine red pin-stripe right up my chest. Had a boot nicely sliced about 4 inches in length once too. Glad I wasn't bare footin that day. I have decided to get Pro Tech fins. The ones with the soft edges, not the flexy ones. After interviewing several people that have used them, not one negative report. One guy told me he got hit really hard by the fin. No cut but a nasty bruise. OK.

Diamond tip - it's going on this weekend. My previous board had one but somehow I let it slide on my current shortboard.

Surfing has many rewards socially, physically, and spiritually. It's great to push yourself beyond what you think you can do. Very often you find that you can and it get the juices flowin. But I think I'll do what few things there are to hedge my chances of being severely injured in the process. In my case, make some minor equipment changes. I'm still in it for the long run.

whoa. my friend fernando had a simaler thing happen to him in mexico. at the point south of Puerto Escondito. he was surfing well overhead waves, popped through the back of one of them... his board was being dragged by the wave and pulling his leash, and like a rubber band snapping with a 7' board attached... anyway, it shot right back at his head, the rear fin hit with such force that stuck into his head. right to the side of one of his eyes, sliced his nose from bottom to top. YEOW. the crazy part was that when he moved his head, the board went with him, like a big horn. he had to pull it out, it made a SHWHIWWP shound and he had to paddle in, with a flappin nose . horrible. luckly for him, he was peruvian and spoke spanish, made it to the hospital, they sewed him up and he to recovered well. just took some time, the scar is almost gone now. crazy though..

rest well jeff, you will get better.

north end of the beach this morning. paddled out with a friend in complete fogdog conditions. thinking we would be the only ones out there, besides the two others that put in just down the beach. got outside, and it was like a party out there, 10 or so people out there getting sucked around by a nice little rip/current. anyway, waves were not that good, got a couple and cruised in.

good reading these past days, cheers everyone!

peace.

Perfect description of Monterror. Often reasonable from the bluff-- usually big, cold, sharky, and unforgiving up close. The shorebreak is fun. A little saltwater/sand enema is great now and then to remind us who's in charge.

I'm surprised more people didn't hit it this morning, paddled out at sl**t and absolutely fabulous and alone. Anyone who's been surfing OB the last 5 days (except sat & sun) woudl recognize it, same cumbly big fun non-closing out waves. Easy takeoffs and big dramatic drops. Nice long rides. Easy paddle out.

Rode for a couple of hours alone in the dense fog, reading that story makes me be extra thankful for the session.

Wow, all kinds of craziness! I haven't checked Christian's post yet, I'm gunna check it out. Jake look foward to you cruising back! While we're on injuries I caught a cute fin slice to the brow/corner of my eye last year. Got some stitches, $500 later and a small scar, I got hit AGAIN, this time a few millimeters lower and still VERY close to my right eye. I'm really fortunate it didn't hit my eye. Grant, do you know JC and Chris? I think I may have met you before, but am not sure. I recall hearing a crazy story of you getting held down for quite some time at OB and came up coughing blood? Was that you?
I caught La Jolla reefs REALLY good on Sunday with the remaining swell from home. Plate glass, sunny skies, and heaving and sucking rights rolled through. Scary as hell (for me)at first. I had butterfles for the first half of the sesh but got kinda used to it. Got caught off guard twice by some freak waves that just dumped across the whole reef. One of them got me right on the head. My buddy who was inside me said my board was tomb-stombing for a nice ammount of time. I had an initial panic attack while under water after getting sucked over the falls, but quickly cooled down. It took a few strokes to get back up. My leash stretched a little.
Half way through the week! Finally got a job!

Wow, I have complete and absolute respect for you Christian, Blakestah, and all others who charge OB on big days! Or even little for that matter. That beach gets pissed off, and you guys are there to tackle it. Any one who dedicates that much focus, time, effort, and strength, AND holds the wisdom, definately deserves the respect in my mind. E, I'm with you man! When in doubt, drive South.. Even then I'll usually just wish I could hold my breath long enough to surf bigger waves. Oh, and as far as getting in when your noodle-arms have lost all juice and/or you've lost your board. A possible alternative suggested to my dad while stuck-out at a huge closing-out break on Maui was/is (and tell me if any of you have objections because I wouldn't know from my lack of big-waves) is to fill your lungs with as much air as possible, curl into a tight ball, and let the waves/white water carry you in, in a beach ball manner. I probably wouldn't try it with a board attached ;) Anyone? Anyone?... Sorry for my run-on sentances and story structure. Never was the brightest in my english class.

Christian that was an awesome story from the other day, congrats on the super-sesh, and the mob-attack! You rip brother!

hey in the picture of the huge barrel and some little goofy footer inside of it(down at the bottom) his name is andy L. and he is a super cool guy and a great surfer.

yea i went to namotu(fiji) with him and it got that big but not as hollow but he was fearless while i was crapping my pants. fun trip i really recomend namotu, fiji. peace out

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