E's Surf Report

No choice on this one.
If the swell is flowing down south, a key to Pt. Dume may as well be cast in Gold. The sound of the surf as you cruise down the trail, sniffing the sage and the sycamores. That tinge of anticipation as you pop out on the beach. The knowledge that you are surfing a classic PRIVATE point break in the heart of the madness. Dude, it's like a freakin' surf trip overseas.
I know, I am a former Tower 15 Jetty hugging Palisades Local

shit, well i don't know anything about pt. dume, steve-O sounds pretty psyched about it, but that is a lot of driving, and you will be in hell-A.

after last weekend's report, i'd think you'd be frothing to get back to the central coast, that's my vote, warmer water, chance to beat the crowds which will be ravaging santa cruz county like any other weekend.

aaaah, the luxuries of living in california. in a few more months you can add option d) go to tahoe for some shredding.

so, I was reading everyone's comments on more foam Monday. I think I have way too much foam. My board: 10 ft beater that thicker than anything I have seen. It floats a bit too well. I get pushed all the way back to the beach at OB if froth is coming at me and I don't turtule roll. I plucked this one off of Craig's list in August for cheap and am thinking of getting something that has a touch more performance. I am still in the beginner phase and spend most of my time at Lindy. I am a long ways from heading out into DOH O.B conditions if ever but I do love the sport.

I am 6'2, 180 lbs and surfing about 3-4x a week. Should I stick it out with the current beastly large board? Am I going to enjoy an 8'6" more? Any good suggestions on a good hookup?

Thanks guys, I love the daily conversations.

Fucking fog...

I need an extra hour of light so I can sit at the beach all morning and wait.. and wait... and wait...

E, here is my recommendation (biased of course):
1) LA - never a good time anyway you slice it.
2) Central Coast - Just there, but Seymore factor is huge on this one. Can't deny that.
3) N. SC + Coffey: No brainer. Get it done. Besides, when it was big this past weekend, Dwayniac and crew weren't around to paddle out. In fact, it seemed to be too big for the SC posse. Funny cause I don't think they were at Scott's either. Get the board.

i can't wait for the xtra hour of light! i've been waiting for it for weeks now. the 7 a.m. dp start pushes my arrival at good-ol-werk into the hugely conspicuous range!

e, as for your options....you can't really lose with that choice!! a key to a private point....deaammmmnn! however, i think i gotta side with jake on this one. central coast kindness plus your lady. too fine. not to mention that, after a day like that, you're costume would be a snap!...i'm bettin' you'd be stylin' with a fat Cheshire Cat grin all night long!

E: scratch A - C and head to shoreline amphitheatre sat. night for Neil Youngs Bridge School beneift. Always the best show of the year - every year. This years line up aint bad: Neil, Willie Nelson, CSN&Y, pearl Jam, Incubus etc... You can still score waves all day sat/sun too. Aloha.

these kids i used to babysit live at point dume..that wave is so great when its on, all those things steveo said..chances of there being waves in LA this weekend are slim (havent checked any reports or anything but LA is a pretty inconsistent place)..oxnard beachbreaks are very peaky. driving is a factor.

central coast sounds great to me as ive never really explored that area, and from what i hear here it sounds great..

SC not to far, camp, surf, smoke, surf, beer, fire, tent, smoke, surf..home in 60 mins..

does that help?

im out for a few days due to this:

i guess cold water is bad for your ears..dang gina!

Coffey's number just in case:

831-459-0868

E, that Oahu pic looks like the break I used to live by called Sandy's. Is that it? Well, I'm an idiot and thought yesterday's board was today's, here's what I said today on yesterday's board.

Wow, all kinds of craziness! I haven't checked Christian's post yet, I'm gunna check it out. Jake look foward to you cruising back! While we're on injuries I caught a cute fin slice to the brow/corner of my eye last year. Got some stitches, $500 later and a small scar, I got hit AGAIN, this time a few millimeters lower and still VERY close to my right eye. I'm really fortunate it didn't hit my eye. Grant, do you know JC and Chris? I think I may have met you before, but am not sure. I recall hearing a crazy story of you getting held down for quite some time at OB and came up coughing blood? Was that you?
I caught La Jolla reefs REALLY good on Sunday with the remaining swell from home. Plate glass, sunny skies, and heaving and sucking rights rolled through. Scary as hell (for me)at first. I had butterfles for the first half of the sesh but got kinda used to it. Got caught off guard twice by some freak waves that just dumped across the whole reef. One of them got me right on the head. My buddy who was inside me said my board was tomb-stombing for a nice ammount of time. I had an initial panic attack while under water after getting sucked over the falls, but quickly cooled down. It took a few strokes to get back up. My leash stretched a little.
Half way through the week! Finally got a job!

Posted by Ian at October 22, 2003 10:03 AM
Wow, I have complete and absolute respect for you Christian, Blakestah, and all others who charge OB on big days! Or even little for that matter. That beach gets pissed off, and you guys are there to tackle it. Any one who dedicates that much focus, time, effort, and strength, AND holds the wisdom, definately deserves the respect in my mind. E, I'm with you man! When in doubt, drive South.. Even then I'll usually just wish I could hold my breath long enough to surf bigger waves. Oh, and as far as getting in when your noodle-arms have lost all juice and/or you've lost your board. A possible alternative suggested to my dad while stuck-out at a huge closing-out break on Maui was/is (and tell me if any of you have objections because I wouldn't know from my lack of big-waves) is to fill your lungs with as much air as possible, curl into a tight ball, and let the waves/white water carry you in, in a beach ball manner. I probably wouldn't try it with a board attached ;) Anyone? Anyone?... Sorry for my run-on sentances and story structure. Never was the brightest in my english class.

Christian that was an awesome story from the other day, congrats on the super-sesh, and the mob-attack! You rip brother!

left the house at o dark thirty but beach was windy and messy and other spots not appealing. had breakfast and fixed boards...

found this on blakestahs' and remember reading some posts from kdalle so figured i'd post it.

nice one (3) kdalle...

http://www.blakestah.com/surf/readerpics/obkdalle1.jpg

http://www.blakestah.com/surf/readerpics/obkdalle2_small.jpg

http://www.blakestah.com/surf/readerpics/obkdalle3_small.jpg

i vote B. you can still roll to C later in the week if conditions shift, and i'd wait on A until you can finesse the 1:1 surf:drivetime ratio. (as if you needed two more cents to choose between three great options...)

RIGHT ON with the daylight savings time reminder...i dried my hair with the vents in my car this morning and literally skulked into work at 10:15. shhh. thanks to nate for the fun in SMC--lindy was the best thing going from kelly's down to HMB. saw some glassy wavelets and a few guys at the jetty, but dare i say the mar was better.

i dig the visuals, bagel--but i'm sorry about your ears. that looks mighty uncomfortable. here's to a quick recovery for blakestah and jack, too.

kdalle,

Nice!!! What size board are you riding there?

d looose

hey jardinee -

i'm by no means an expert, but since no one else has spoken up, i'll give it a go:

first of all, is your 10 foot board a longboard (kind of rounded on both ends) or a shortboard shape (with a point at the front end). i'm not sure if they even make shortboard shapes that big... but anyway, all this talk about 'more foam' is pretty specific to surfing GYNORMO days and so an 8'6" gun is not your concern as a beginner surfer. though in general, foam = float, and float is good to learn on.

so first you need to decide if you want to be longboarding or shortboarding, because it is two different styles. [or you can do both as many surfers do... "open your mind and your boards will follow"... there are many ways to dance on a wave]. but to keep it simple longboarding, which many people practice at linda mar, is about style and flow, with moves like walking to the nose and hanging ten, while shortboarding is about being radical and moving around the wave with power, moves like 'bashing the lip'.

so if you want to be a soulful longboarder, and your current 10 footer is a longboard, then you're set. now if you want to shortboard, then you might have fun on a smaller board. a thinner rail and shorter board will allow you more maneuverability, although it is more difficult to balance on the board the less float it has. in an effort to get to the point, let me offer this recommendation: you are not a small dude, so you don't want a 6'0" thin potato chip... you may want to look into something called a 'fun board' or hybrid shape... in the 7 foot range... fun to ride and learn on, easier to handle in the water... and while learning, I always tended to buy my boards used, less of an investment... check a surf shop like Pearson Arrow in Santa Cruz for a big selection of used boards.

anyway, i'd be happy to help you more over email, but for now i better stop yapping. just remember to respect the ocean, the beach, and your fellow surfers, and always practice good safety and etiquette.

p.s. - alex vs. archy? siiick! wish I could go. go alex!

d loose-
I was on an 8'-6" Jobson Twinzer. Still use it regularly. One of the best boards I've ever owned. He's a genius. Those were shot in '96 at Sloat. I was rummaging and came across them. Each is an outtake from a 5 shot series. That winter Jim Franco sat in the lot and shot the action, come back after with prints for sale. That was a nice swell.

No question about it - Pt. Dume and party in brentwood.

jardinee: I was/am in the same boat as you - going out 3-5 times a week ( until I busted my neck ) on a longboard, knew I wanted to go shorter anyway, was slowly increasing OB sessions, and was desperate to learn duckdiving - always shipping back to the beach. FYI I'm about 5'8" and 125, went from a 8' to a 6'8", took my neighbor's 7'2" out first to see what it was like. LOVE the 6'8", though dropping that kinda size may not be for everyone. In my case I was always falling off the 8' anyway so falling off a 6'8" hardly makes a difference. I'm glad I moved down when I did. Won't clog up the boards any more but if you want more deets feel free to email.

fyi out of water for next month or two ( DAMN ) due to injury but will likely be starting noodly arms etc..from square one around Lindy way.

kdalle,

Would never have thought to ride a twinzer on waves that size. I usually think of those boards for head high surf. After that, especially with OB's power, I'd think the looseness of the twinzer would be too much - at least for my comfort level.

d looose

thanks for the input guys.

E-

Go for option b). Costume parties are always off the hoek, and you'll earn points with Seymore that might help her forget your flirting with that French hottie on the N-Judah last month. Plus you're in better shape for picking up N swell juice in the Central Coast than in Socal.

e- have you already been in touch with ward about getting a board from him? i am still trying to get an appointment set up...i called him last friday and the lady in his shop said he'd be out till tuesday. in fact, i better give him a call right now.

my vote for your weekend is either SC or central coast...too much driving down to LA and lower probability of good surf (unless its freaking macking and out of control/stormy up here).

No brainer. If Seymore is in LA, go to LA. If Seymore is in Slotown, go to Slotown. Being with her must equate to a 400 ft. barrel or sticking a 170 yard 5 iron inside three feet. All the best.

d looose-
A lot of people have that impression of Twinzers. It's important for them to be shaped correctly and the fins put on in the correct position, cant and toe-in. Jobson created the concept so he knows what he's doing. I've had 6 of his from 6-8 to 8-6. They ARE loose and fast but that's what I like. He pulled a disappearing act so I've had Ward Coffey build my last 2 based on Jobson's. Ward is less consistent with the fin position but his work very well also. The only thrust I use is on the Rhinochaser.

e and all on this board-again I want to say kudos for sharing the stoke. Keep surfing n matter what.

kdalle,

i'd like to see the sequences in their entirety if you would post them.

that day looks soo clean and shouldering off perfectly.

ya, sick wave k dalle...that right looks so clean!

meant to send this thing yesterday but didnt..if your not at home with an aparatus handy you might want to hold out till then. or not. i think this guy must have been on 50 hits of acid

http://nlp.fi.muni.cz/~xsvobod4/amanita/samorost/intro.html

How 'bout this pick of our boy Christian from Blakestah's site?

"Look how much rail Christian is burying in the wave."

Alex vs Archy! Kick some ass Alex!

I'm down for SC mission if you decide to go that route.

Kdalle charges!

i vote for a combo of options A and B. drive to LA friday night, surf Pt Dume on Saturday, drive to SLOtown that night, hang with Seymore and enjoy the costume craziness, then surf central coast on Sunday. a lot of driving but the potential payoff could be huge.

kdalle - those pics look awesome!

The pics from this Sunday are up on Mavsurfer....Sick!!

first day back from my 2 week sojourn to the east coast. between swell and work/social commitments i got shut out in both NH & NJ. i think i have a travel surf curse, it's good to be home.

it's clear that fall arrived while i was gone, great to read how it's been. good luck to the folks recovering from injuries.

heard from my shaper that my new 6'11" is ready, hoping it will be shipped here in time for a halloween inaugural session. unexpectedly quick turnaround - ready 4 weeks after ordering it. this is my first board from this shaper (greg sauritch, encinitas), so i can't give a strong recommendation yet, but it has been great working with him.

i have a friend who lives by moss landing who swears by his twinzers, has a whole quiver of them, most of which also have bat wing tails, very cool. shaped by some guy who lives up in washington??

hoping to get out this afternoon, looks like san mateo is the call??? anyone going? planning for a dawn patrol on friday, too, hope to see some of ya'll out there soon.

Anyone have a comment on the fill the lungs and curl like a ball idea? kdalle NICE shot! Nice style too! Congrats to Alex as well for coverage on mavsurfer! Just surfed wind and sea or however its spelled. Was pretty fun for awhile then the tide dropped and winds turned onshore HARD.

alex martins (from mavsurfer.com)

mavs

On getting in while noodle armed. I prefer to watch a whitewater wall approach, throw my board up, point my legs towards shore, arms crossed over my chest, and let the board tow me in. You can get some wicked velocity.

On swimming in, stay where there is whitewater - avoid the clear areas. The whitewater always goes to shore. Also, don't dive under after you've lost your board. You make zero progress. Better to take a breath, let the whitewater work you, count to ten, come up, get a breath, and repeat.

I've prolly seen hundreds of kdalle waves on twinzers. No doubt the board is not holding him back. Too bad the shaper left town. If you haven't ridden one, a twinzer is not like a twin-fin, in that it doesn't ever spin out. It just feels smooth into the turns - not even fishy, really.

The twinzer was the basis for the Superchargers, as well. It's a little less clear if the double fin concept works on a board with a center fin, though.

wow, nice style alex, and shiiiit that bowl in the bottom picture is off the hook!!!!!

What about quad-fin guns? I know Jeff Clark uses them sometimes, anyone have comments on them? Or is the twinzer you're talking about, blakestah, two fins on each side? I have a 6'8 that I use and it has adjustable lokbox fins. I like them a lot. Anyone else ever used them? On my 6'4 I just swapped out the Merrick FCS fins for the carbon FCS. It feels stiffer, with what seems like a bit more drive, whereas the plastic feel more elastic on turns. Or maybe I'm just thinking that... ;)

http://www.mandalacustomshapes.com

Anyone ever heard of/seen this guys boards? I met him out at Lindy one evening is some crazy/nasty/really fun wind swell about 2 months ago. He was ripping this little 5'6" without a leash. They look sweet. Probably gunna be one of my next boards if I can ever save cash (yeah right).

Pics of dreams. Kdalle, those are the sweetest waves I've seen pics of in a long time. Perfecto. Christian getting speed in a hurry. Alex on fire. Let's hope this year brings lots more of that!

On swimming in v2. I was talking to our local bodysurfer, guess we all know Judith. She said she waits til the whitewater is just about on her then ducks under and quickly pops up to let the water flow drag her in. The short duck under part saves a bit of wear and tear on the lungs and torso. I never tried it so I can't say for sure, but I think she has more experience in the soup kitchen than just about anybody. She lives there.

Even though I got skunked on Sat, I got caught inside for what would be my last time of the day. I slid back a bit on my 9' (boogie) board and hung on tight as the whitewater came flying over me. I took off like a bat outa hell. It felt like 0 to 60 in .35 seconds. That was fun.

nice wave alex...get that tatooed freak tomorrow!

that would be rad if they had a live video feed..be a good day of work for me...

bagel, i can't beat level 3 of the acid game. i get the dude to catch the fish, but i can't figure out what to do with the lizards on the wall. hehehe. be the lizard.

Hey caveman,
could you plan the rest of my life for me? I would never think to combine plan A, subtract plan B bring plan C into and then out of focus. I guess you were that damned smart feller at the very front of Logic 101. Cheers

This is my kind of website/bruddahs. I feel a good vibe everywhere I look. Anyway, first timer on this site and couldn't help but to see a possible trip to Point Dume. DO IT!! Steve-O has blessed me with a few trips to this place and it ranks as one of the more memorable places I've ever surfed. The feeling is pure bliss/ecstasy there. Private, beautiful, secluded and pure magic. Oh yeah, sublime surf as well.

Surfline has the Cold Water Classic on live video feed...but it requires a subscription.

doh! anyone wanna email me a password? thought id ask

ya jake, that acid game is crazy..i plan on spending more time on it in the near future..i didnt get past the 3rd screen yet

i cant even get the mundaka contest to work..anyone got any pointers..waaa..yes i have a job

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