E's Surf Report

Racing out the door to PT but here's the scoop:

OB: Welcome back to normal! Powerful onshores, super hack surface, disorganized flat chop with wind sculpted 1-4 foot lumps bumping up at random. Earlier a.m. there were some larger random lumps and a small crew on it - don't know if they caught any real rides. No one out now. Conditions look difficult for catching anything, anything at all..however, totally impossible junk is my playground so hell I'd paddle out. But don't listen to me, I've still got my surf beer goggles on. About 97 degrees cooler than yesterday. Currently 3/4 fog, 1/4 sun, changing by the hour.

'sup e.
Thanks for the mention about tonight. The films are actually at 7:15, 9:15. Film is Singlefin: Yellow (singlefinyellow.com), and we're also showing the zombie surf film Aleks and I made called Surf Dead. Rad. Best zombie costume gets an XCEL wetsuit.

Also, a head's up, we're showing Taylor Steele's CAMPAIGN next week at the Red Vic, on the 6th, 7:15, 9:15.

Speaking of 5th Symphony, that director contacted wavefest, and I think wavefest will be in Kona/Hilo January 5-10th.

Phew! See you tonight! Also, last minute flyering at VF'ers this morning had about 6 people getting in/out of wetsuits. So someone got wet this morning....
--Brian

e and all,

Missed last weekend's OB wavefest due to the flu and now stuck on a business trip in Ohio and Kentucky this week. Been living vicariously through you guys this week. Thanks for sharing the stoke all week.

Hoping the weekend shapes up into some rideable waves.

d looose

Hey e,
I was reading about a similar problem on Surfline a few months ago. The suggestion was to immediately set the side fin by making a quick turn followed by a down the face turn then the bottom turn. Should get your board and body in balance. Careful moving your feet on the bottom turn. I tore my hamstring Sunday doing exactly that.

hello niceness...

back from adventures in switzerland and spain. lucky enough to catch one day of october niceness...yesterday morning was schweeeet! surfed again this a.m. but it was pretty rough. jet lag sure makes the DP easier though!

anyways my own surf intentions were somewhat stifled by illness and foul weather. in san sebastian, after stopping the tourbus and hurling an extremely decadent wine-fueled lunch onto a sidewalk in front of a bunch of old swiss ladies (my aunt's tour group clientele, who soon departed), i spent most of my hours in a hotel bed watching soccer, and relocated to a bar when i felt healthy enough. i did see a few people surfing on the east side of the rivermouth (the beach in "Gros") but one day looked like a grim day at OB and the other, a micro day at lindy. not worth hunting down a board for.

i did venture out to mundaka though and got to see the cool town and the setup and all the quarter final heats. e posted a few shots on oct 23, that mick lowe tube was crazy, from our angle he just disappeared and when he reemerged everyone up on the bluff (mostly spanish surf fans, a few aussies or americans thrown in here and there) let out a collective hoot. it was nice to see kelly come from behind in that one though...i'd never spectated an ASP contest before, it's cool the way they always announce the wave scores, and who needs what score to take the lead...pretty exciting. also pretty wild to see the jet skis and how they were shuttling the guys back out to the takeoff spot. i got a room in the hotel mundaka (when surfers lose things & take off things open up even though everything's generally packed) and got to just kind of chill and absorb the whole vibe. going into my room one time, "hey there's taj burrow getting in the elevator," that kind of scene. it was pouring rain a lot of the time. i couldn't figure out how the judges can even see the surfers rides to give them a score - a little baffling...to my eyes the conditions looked pretty marginal too, i felt like if they weren't up against the tail end of the waiting period they would've held off, but of course these guys can pull off crazy surfing in almost any conditions...

anyways i had to split the next morning before the semifinals and finals happened. shared a cab from downtown bilbao to the airport with an extremely hung-over aussie guy who was buddies with mick fanning, parkinson, etc. he had all these weird red scars all over his face...i was wondering if he had some kind of skin condition or something...as we were talking it came out that they'd all been up drinking till 4am and eventually the markers came out & they were all writing over each other and he'd made a last-ditch effort before getting on the bus to try and clean himself up. pretty funny. the tour (esp the aussie end of it) seems to still live up to its party vibe i guess.

well good to be back and i'll see you niceness folks out in the water.

hit VFdub this morn. few guys out, couple folks with longer boards getting interestingly longish rides considering the junkiness that prevailed.

generally windy & onshore, infrequent, waist-high crumblers with some small shoulders that these aforementioned other guys seemed to get into much more easily than i could with my shortboard. spent maybe half hour before having to head in to get to work.

niceness crew...

i'm looking for some advice on possible camping spots. I want to get out of the madness that will be the city this weekend and would like to camp somewhere that has close proximity to surf *and* has some trails for my lady to bike on while i'm in the water. north or south - as long as it's not too much of a drive.

thanks in advance.

started at Slizz.... grey... onshores.... cold... waist-high crumblers coming through. hmmm... mushy... shifty... and (after all of the epic niceness we have enjoyed recently) a tad... well... boring. drove to mid. slightly more tempting, but really more of the same.

attempted to salvage the sesh by driving over to J-h-n’- O-e-n –e-c- D-n-r. watched it for a bit, but quickly realized it wasn’t going to work (the hour was too early...maybe later on a rising tide of griddle chefs?). then tried a nice protected nook I know called M-n-r C-f- in W-s- P-r-a-, but similarly inhospitable conditions existed there too. But then our luck turned and we stumbled upon a little cove offering sizzling peaks (of hot coffee…served chest-high) and consistent sets (of egg sandwiches). Despite a faint welcoming scent (of French roast) that lingered in the warm air and the glassy surface (of the freshly waxed floors), we had it all to ourselves! I watched my buddy effortlessly land a critical drop into a tapering cup o’ jo feathered by an offshore gust from the opened door. Shortly after, I swooped in on a meaty ham and egg English muffin, stalled ever so slightly, and just savored the moment.

Did the southerly drive this morning. Lots of junky surf out there this morning with a few pockets of somewhat doable conditions. I was hoping the Jetty might still be seeing what's left of the south but whatever might have been there was killed by the tide. Saw a few guys catching some nice but fairly short rides someplace on the way back to SF, but it was the only peak really working and I didn't want to harsh their scene by paddling out into the middle of them. Regretting not hitting it now though...

ck, you are actually making me hungry. :)

my alarm rang at 5:45 but i was quickly lulled back to sleep by the sound of heavy winds rattling the windows. it feels like i'm finally learning that lesson...well, at least today, anyway!

see you at the movies.

aaaa memories..it was still warm and beautiful outside at 11pm last night so i thought there might be hope...i woke up this am at 6 thinking good ole SF would bless us with one more day of nicenesses, even though steve raleigh said that the fog and onshores were on their way..i woke up and stepped outside in the clothes i had been wearing for the last 4 days, tshirt, flip flops and board shorts. instantly the coldest wind ive felt in 6 days slapped me and i knew the fantasy was over..a sad moment...looked at kellys for one second and went home and put some pants on..*sniff sniff*

Hey all. Hey I'm just giving you guys a heads up down here... I wanted to post earlier but didn't have access to a computer. The fire got to the end of our street at Mission Trails and unexpectedly decided to stop. We were evacuated on Friday and weren't let back until Sunday. We stayed in Escondido and the fire was right up on the hill beyhind us. Being evacuated was probably one of the scariest things I've ever experienced in my life. We're lucky to be alive some people weren't so lucky, and thousands of others lost their homes. I just wanted to say howdy and let everyone know what's been going on. The fire is still going very strong but has moved past our county.

Ian - glad to hear that you're okay! must have been quite an experience.

Niceness humans....

Thanks e for the reports and stoked literary ramblings -- I never met you but you do/say/act like I do to a T with your involvements in a band, arts, surfing, Sierra Club, the way you "see" surfing when you're out there -- I mean it's uncanny, kinda freaks me out (are you originally from NJ? I am, grew up surfing 7th St. OCean City then Manasquan when I went to Rutgers). You feel quite like the "brother-from-another mother" type dude to me, I got a feeling....I'm 29, how old are you? I keep looking for you in the line-up to say "Hey"...

Anyway....
We have had a GLORIOUS run of surf, I am sated and am prepared to swallow the return to "classic" (read: undulating, warbly, hectic, moody, dark and gothic) OB with far less whining than the norm.

I've been surfing year-round here for about 8 years; the crowds have about doubled over that time, as has the warped sense of entitlement that some locals are displaying in the line-up. I've got some beef with this, but only in my mind (it does not surface, though). I long for ye olde tymes when locals weren't such uptight pains in the asses to their fellow locals...I mean these guys don't even bother to find out if you live here or not, they just vibe out as ULTRA-local and you can't even represent or authenticate with these bastards. IMO, It's not so much frustrating for us, the mellower locals, as it is for the UBERlocals, who tend to expend far too much precious energy on attitude/vibing/stressing and sprint-paddling to steal people's waves and not enough on enjoying their jump in the ocean. A bigger bunch of phonies and bullies you will not find, on or off the land. I feel sorry for them, what do they think? Survival of the "bitter-est" I s'pose.

Keeping it peaceful in the water since 1983,
MM

ian.. glad you're ok!! scary story..

If i could be anywhere right now i'd be at some south pacific reef-pass enjoying the south swell juice.. i'd like a slightly overhead right.. barrel on the takeoff then a walling, racing down-the-line speed train.. Transclucent (sp?) water.. spongy/forgiving reef, 3 of my boys out there with me.. plenty-o-waves.. each pushing each other a little deeper on the takeoffs.. encouraging bigger and more risky lip-bashes and maneuvers.. having fun..

word monkey milk.. yeah.. i'm 29 now.. i started surfing in Avalon and LBI as a grom.. and on Block Island,RI.. went to college in Philly so didn't surf for about 5 years. kind-of forgot about it actually..

that sucks that you've been feelin' the heat from the local yokels.. I feel it pretty strong at our points but not so much during OB dawnies.. maybe it's because i usually paddle away from crowds, even if it means leaving the better peak.

but.. yeah.. i think that you can feel the bay area/santa cruz population density in the lineups around here... when i travel up to Mendo or down to the central coast the vibe is just mellower overall.. consistenly less people in the water. i guess if you want uncrowded waves these days ya need to move up to Crescent City or Washington State or something??

dood.. but in the meantime.. find your nugs.. enjoy!!

mm.. hit me up if you like to improvise musically and want to jam..

monkey milk - nice handle, and spot-on use of the term "gothic" in describing OB's natural state. ck - hilarious; I t-i-k I've cracked your code, but then you didn't even provide a code-protected name of the secret spot where you scored. I probly wouldn't either, if it was as epic as you reported.
e - you've got all the content - and talent - you need for the magazine right here in the comments section.

you're spot on about the talent and content for the mag being all right here redworm.. i hear that!!! i've been super-dog lazy these last few months on BASE-mag.. but.. i've been pushing some late-nights recently trying to get the ball moving.. more soon..

The movie "Victory at Sea" was playing this morning. Guess, as Christian noted yesterday, we must have returned from our surf trip.

-d

deeamn....redworm...you're on to me and my code! thank goodness i didn't put in the name of my secret spot...otherwise the next time i hit it, i'm sure the coffee reef would be mobbed and there'd be nothin' but doods droppin' in on the egg-sandwich point left! ; )

Ian: Glad you're okay!

OB: REALLY blustery. My doors are creaking in the wind. Sun also came out. Lumped up rolls of windswell stacked up about...oh, two inches apart. *laughs* It's a mess! In addition, Hitchcock's movie, " The Birds" is being reshot at the beach. There have been ZILLIONS of swooping, dive bombing seagulls up to no good since late afternoon.

MM - we've been in town about the same lenght of time.

I have also noticed at least a doubling of crowds, maybe more. I clearly recall mornings in October with the buoy at 3-4 ft 14 sec and two of us out there for hours and hours. You could almost always surf alone in the Avenues on a weekday - the ends got crowded. And weekends.

But the locals, well, that comes with crowds, just look at ANY really crowded area. Entitlement?

I dunno. Some of the harshest localism is dealt out by people who moved here from Ventura Co in the last 10 years. There are just too few "lifers" in town, and if you question them, you'll find even fewer that lived in the Avenues the entire time. It's really all about attitude making getting waves easier, entitlement is just the reason of the week.

BTW, I think surfcams are the single largest contributor to the shift in surfers from the ends to the Avenues, and I am working hard to get them (the streaming surveillance cams, not the surfers) out of the neighborhood. Anyone interested in helping, feel free to email blakestah@blakestah.com.

those past few days were too good to be true. i knew it was coming to a screeching halt... ah well. i'm sure november will produce some amazing surf. it always does...

about localism... why is it that the transplants are always the ones creating the problems... is it that they are trying to establish themselves? what gives... i know down in the central coast when I lived there (slo) the good breaks in los osos area were filled with "heavys" that always had something to say... though, the "heavys" were a pretty good mix of lifers and transplants... though the transplants were always the ones that were the real assholes. a slew of them moved up from PV and brought all their shit with them... weak... anyway weird.

regardless of the pricks out in the lineup. it makes me happy to read the niceness' posts everyday. i feel like there are still plenty of good vibes out there.

here's to the next smile you get in the water!

best.

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