E's Surf Report

killah words, e. talk about brightening this kid's cube-bound morn!! also, that last pic....shiet!! too kind.

looks like pathetica is surfable today, but can i stomach the drive, the mushburgers and the erasing of 5 days of OB bliss...

Tough to get over my love affair with a supermodel last weekend with an ugly stand in.

Starve or eat sloppy leftover dogfood????

dat's north point beeeeotch

here a female charger in puerto

yikes!!!

well after today's verse-filled morning from our own E E cummings, i'm inspired to share a silly love poem of my own, which i happened to stumble across yesterday.

~S~

The second I leave her
I think about going back,
when will I next see her?
For her I cannot lack.

Hopefully tomorrow,
if not, it must be the next.
No doubt an addiction,
a spell, a hex.

I will dream of her tonight,
sweet images in my eyes.
Excitement at the next prospect
keeps me awake with sighs.

Eventually, I drift to sleep,
losing myself in a dream...
amazed my body holds the passion
without ripping a seam.

I'll be back soon,
no question I must,
to the exhileration and joy
for which I lust.

Back to the ocean,
to the waves that I ride.
The addiction which fills me
and can't be denied.

~~~
Pretty tricky, huh? ;) What surprised me when I found this is that I had only been surfing for a few months when I wrote it... had no concept of a 'line', I was just standing up and falling in sloppy Mediterranean windswell... but I guess I was one addicted kook!!

alright, I'm packing my board bag and backpack now, my flight to CA is in a few hours... boo yah!! Looking forward to dp'ing with the niceness crew next week. c-ya!

they got locals in bars, bowling alleys, basketball courts, skate parks, ski mtn's etc.

outsiders wanna take what they have had to themselves for as long as they remember.

so what's worse?

the takers or the not givers?

never been a local so i don't know.

locals rule!!

ha ha ha..

Since my gremmie days i've only been seriously vibed or hassled by locals a few times..

3 times at fort point
1 time at HMB jetty
1 time at Ano
1 time at 4mile (4 mile psycho)
1 time at pleasure point

anybody have any crazy locals stories?

Did you deserve it?

http://www.surfpulse.com/dtl/dtl-15.shtml

Interesting article to read for all "non locals". Excerpt below....

"Not that we as a group should condone it, but why do you think a “local” completely blows his cool and verbally or physically assaults another surfer? Could it be that he has given up practically everything just to be at a particular spot, on a particularly good day, and to take off on a particularly good set wave? Only to have someone who is completely inexperienced – or more importantly, ignorant – stumble into the situation, get in the way, and ruin the wave that could have made the dedicated surfer’s day, maybe even their year. In no situation should violence be acceptable (except perhaps to protect oneself), but neither then should be intentional forms of disrespect.

The surfing environment acts as a mirror image of our society on land, which is often muddled with intolerance, impiety, and violence. Limited waves only serve to magnify this reflection. Lack of leadership from experienced surfers along with ignorance from neophytes only perpetuates the problem."

Tom, that was a really cool post. Definately a different way of seeing it. ANyone ever read any of Daniel Quinn's books? He wrote the "Ishmael" and "The Story of B." Though different circumstances, surfing has "takers" and "leavers." Takers are the ones who take without leaving sacrifices like or wisdom, a wave for a fellow surfer, or a smile. Leavers are those who DO make a conscious effort to leave an offering for someone or something. Maybe it's picking up trash off your local beach, or smiling at someone. "Takers" are also those who feel places and things were made for them. Nothing in this world was made specifically for a human being, definately not a particular beach. "Leavers" understand we're a small piece of a huge complex ecological plan, and that we don't sit on top of the food chain, though we like to think so. We're still at the mercy of nature, I was just reminded that last weekend with the fires. Ok, I'm done rambling, just thought I'd throw some stuff out relating to our hobby and some books I've read. Almost Friday! Woohoo!!

OB: Thar she blows! What e said: solid onshores and whitecaps to the horizon. Sunny and chilly. Messy muckity muck getting upwards to chin height. No one out now but if I was a surf shop I'd insert something really vague about "workable shoulders" haha. Scant few takers earlier, one solo guy was really ripping some turns out of god knows where. Great Highway is closed: bikers, joggers, walkers, skaters celebrate.

Great poems...

Three hassles stand out for me:

1. Sloat-Cold cocked by a former SFer who dropped in on me and I cursed as he did. He approached me in the shorebreak as we were both leaving. As I turned to dodge an incoming wave he punched me in the the face. Me: 5-7, Him: 6'-1", Me: Broken Nose, Him: $1200 doctor bill and begging that I didn't tell his wife.

2. Kelley's-Just paddled out. didn't even catch a wave when a recognizable local who rarely surfed started shit-talking about my right to paddle into a prime position. As I told him I didn't even know if he was talking to me his friend who is a well-known thug in the water paddle right into my board, jumped on me an started punching. Me: No damage, Him: Paddled into a hiding spot when I tried to have him areested, Friend: Apologized to me a year later when he realized I had been surfing here for over 25 years.

3. The Lane-Riding a longboard I dropped into a set wave. After me bottom turn a grem managed to catch it behind me and started screaming. After the wave I told him I was up first so I had priority. He continued to scream and a number of his older friends surrounded me making fists. I tried to get out on the next wave but one of them intentionally paddled in front of me and caught the wave. Our leashes got tangled as I backed off and he went over the falls on a solid overhead wave. A paddle chase ensued and I managed to catch a wave and literally ride through them to the stairs. Later found out the grem was Flea Virostko.

Mostly I find that people get pissed off if you seem to be having a good time and catch a lot of waves.

Keep surfing no matter what.

The photo is of The BOX in W. Oz - is it not?

jake...your lady has many lovers.

lookin' forward to you gettin' out here. i can't wait to judge the second annual Kaiser/Jake spray-off! safe travels.

kdalle.. thanks for the stories.. fucking intense! that sucks that the situation has come to blows twice for you at OB.. good on ya' for making them deal with the consequences of their actions. that really sucks though homie.. cool that you're still feelin' the stoke after 25 years!!! damn.. that's a lot of surf!! a lot of waves..

Toby.. it's not the box.. it's north point.. BBR got it.

Oh I forgot, Pacifica:

Phil: just drove back from a Pacifica errand. Blowing onshore. Saw 1 guy walking out. Mess. " Workable shoulders" perhaps. Good luck!

Dunno the name of the spot. But I believe Taj Burrow is surfing it in Momentum. I've heard that wave is basically in his backyard. Drive-Thru Oz video coming out sooner than later. Kalani Robb was supposed to be on the mix but got sick. Bout to check the swell models for down here. Maybe hit La Jolla later. kdalle, pretty gnarly happenings. Flea eh? Sucks, but not surprising. You live what you learn or vice versa, and it seems Santa Cruz has a reputation of that, with a few exceptions. Live like Jay!

rad stories..i like #1 i would have told his wife...

heres a few that stick out for me...

me; super grom at hunington beach..in the water waiting for waves, blankly staring at some local talking to his friend about something or other he sees me and snaps WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING AT!?!? i quickly looked away

costa rica north end of manuel antonio preserve beach or whatever its called. walked up to the north end where there was a little pack on this nice looking peak...the pack colectively stickeyes me and my friend even from the water some even gesturing to us to not to paddle out..i play stupid and paddle out...keep my distance and catch about 3 perfect rights and procede whack the hell out of em (if i do say so myself) than no one said anything...oh damn! happy ending..

high school crockaway...surfing with a buddy that was just starting (i lived in danville at the time)...the pack of locals became a little more dense and my friend was getting in everyones way, some of the yokels were starting to express thier feelings to him..im paddling out as i feel this hand squeeze on to my lower leg and pull me back and a mean looking local goes to me, he goes "if you ever take off by my head again im going to drown you" i said, "oh, sorry" and he paddled away..my friend had gotten out, i got a little more stink eye from everyone for a bit longer and got out..

another run in at ocean beach, out at Cabrillo st a couple of years ago from this big mouthed Baby Hewey looking MOFO. he dropped in on my friend, fell, and got all bent out of shape when my friend said "to bad you didnt make the drop" i kind of told him to relax and he b-lines for me, stops short and continues yelling, going on about "dont you know who i am?" and "havent you heard of me?" i cant remember his name but he told me a few times..havent seen that guy around in a long time come to think about it, thankfully

i feel like ive actually been lucky..never punched in the face. only in junior high by this guy Chante' after he got a spoonfull of jello on his pants that i was trying to fling at my friend..seen alot of pretty brutal fights at so cal beaches in my youth

work?

anyone up for jamming or longboard skating tonight?

or anybody have an extra Primus ticket??

email me at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

yeeps...crazy stories, kdalle and bagel.

i think being a shiela gets you out of most vibing. i don't like some of the underlying reasons why, but i sure as heck am not saying i want my equal-opportunity fist fight. i don't want to hurt anybody. ;) 'sides, fighting is for sissies.

the worst i've experienced is someone trying to scare me off a nice OB peak (where he and his pals had joined me) by surfing dangerously close. i don't surf most the uberlocal spots many of you nicenessers do though. and, as a newcomer, i apologize and smile more often than i whine and blame. it's just more fun that way...plus it makes me cringe when i hear people trading angry words in the water...just hate that.

another sick shot from stinkeye - just north of santa cruz on tuesday

ulus.. who's down?

Bagel, nice man. Nice to hear your surfing abilities spoke for themselves in Costa Rica :D email me at aloha2ian@yahoo.com next time a show's coming up. I've been pretty lucky with run-ins the worst one was at Pomponio about 4 Summers when it was firing pretty much all the time. Dawn Patroled and it was already packed. Anyway, I asked some guy if he was going left, or right as I was outside of him on the left. I thought he said go, so I went, clearly I snaked him, but I got off, or fell or something and he made it around me, no biggy. Anyway I cruised over to him and extended my apologies, and he snapped pretty damn hard telling me he'd fuckin kill me and drown me and to not look at him. Uhm, I went to the next peak up.
geez, I'm bored.

"Not that we as a group should condone it, but why do you think a “local” completely blows his cool and verbally or physically assaults another surfer? Could it be that he has given up practically everything just to be at a particular spot, on a particularly good day, and to take off on a particularly good set wave?

either that or because he was fortunate enough to be born to rich parents who have a house near the beach.....

oh yeah, did anybody check out the movies last night? how was?

for some reason when i go to the tuff productions site i can never see the photos, only the videos. damn bali looks amazing..thanx ian man.

go kelly

Same problem on tuff productions. The song during the santa cruz harbor vid is sick though!

si, si! big props to the aqau guys for last night's movies at balboa. i think their zombie flick could make it in limited release...

i really liked "singlefin:yellow," too. the same tyler board goes from el segundo to oz to japan to malibu to baja to pipe...seeing what different people did with the same ride was sweet. not the usual supermellowsleepy longboarding movie.

If today's ocean was a Ben and Jerry's flavor, it'd be Chunky Monkey. I want some more Island Paradise (an old, departed flavor).

-d

e- the wave is called north point cowaramup (spelling?). surfer mag did a story on it a couple years ago and some pics of it were in the recent (4 months ago maybe) transworld surf West Oz issue.

kdall, dude Flea may have had a good point! first-one-up doesn't necessarily outweigh the rule of inside position. especially for longboarders. everybody knows longboarders (and bodyboarders) can get into a wave at an earlier point in its break than a shortboarder (shortboarders need more steepness). this makes it possible for any longboarder to just to just paddle up to the shoulder, disregard the shortboarder who's worked his way to the peak, and get to his feet first. an old guy on a rhino chaser was doing that to me and a few others last night, and it was VERY out of line. that's why the INSIDE position needs to be observed. I know there are exceptions (like if the inside guy is why behind the peak, or so deep there's no way he'll make it)...but it's critical to observe whether the inside guy is already in good position and paddling when you decide to challenge him for it, in which case it's damn rude to go for it at all, in front of him or behind. I'm not judging since I wasn't at the Lane that day, but nobody can hold up the "first-man-up" notion as absolute.
sorry to hear about the other encounters.
peace out.
JB

http://www.stokedmovie.com

wow, my first skate ever was the old vision gator. i had to get the mini cuz i was a little guy. i guess the dude snapped and is in jail for 31 years.

Bertrand-
You might think that seems right but it is not. First, it was clearly a snake from behind as I had already made a bottom turn but, more importantly, the unspoken rule is actually carved into a wood sign right at the stairs at the Lane "First surfer up has priority". That is as it should be.

Just to keep the conversation in perspective, mindless localism is obviously not a new phenomenon. I was a shy grom who surfed Windan'Sea in LaJolla every day, some 30 years ago. It was never a friendly place with much positive karma. But there was usually one peak and a ton of guys. So I have to agree that the probability of warm feelings is inversely proportional to the number of surfers; perhaps more accurately, the surfer to wave ratio. And now even the lame spots (e.g., Linda Marginal) are getting so packed it's like conflicts are almost inevitable. I can't believe it when I hear people exchanging words over mushy or closed-out waves. Can niceness survive the popularity of surfing?

Bad vibes: never any physical ones. I had a few one or two word FU type things with FU@ response but that's about it. I often fell grumpy though cuz I get snaked alot. Usually I let it slide til it becomes too rude. I intentially dropped in on a guy at VFW's last year cuz he snaked me three times in a row. We had a few words then I had plenty of waves to myself. I'm not what one would call threatening looking so I guess I've just been lucky that way. I do however have three black belts in Kung Phooie. That's pretty scary huh.

I saw a guy get surrounded last year at the Lane. One guy using the nose of his board punch a few holes in the bottom of the offenders board. Almost sounds like the mix you got into kdalle.

i'm with bertrand, it's not always as simple as "first surfer up has priority". if a surfer has been waiting his turn and paddles into a wave at the peak while some longboarder shoulder hops and happens to get up first, i give priority to the surfer at the peak. this isn't always the case, especially if the longboarder was already in position and the surfer paddled around him to get closer to the peak at the last second. but you definitely cannot always say "first surfer up has priority".

not saying this was true in your case kdalle.

word..thats a close one...i alwayse thought first one up, but in some cases involving the advantages of longboards i think there should be a bi-law or a double-rule or something perhaps like that..

That "first person up" rule was probably made to dumb down surfing etiquette so they could conveniently fit it on a sign. If you were to interpret such a “rule” literally no shortboarder is ever going to get a wave against a longboarder who possessed even a modicum of paddling ability. At the Point it is a contest of which longboarder can sit outside more and on the shoulder more and stand up first. Ridiculous.

-d

Of course longboarders get all the waves. And, also, you should know, kdalle is a localism magnet.

OK, my best localism story.

I'm out with a buddy JUST south of Kelly's - it is super crowded there, just two of us on a peak a few hundred yards down.

A guy paddles over and sit 20 yards outside us. On the first wave, he paddles hard for more than 20 yards, gets up, and takes the wave. Then, he does it again.

OK, I think, and paddle outside and beat him on a few. My buddy stays inside. The next wave, the snake catches it, and heads straight at my buddy. Instead of steering around, he dive-tackles my buddy, and then berates him.

I was kinda flabbergasted anyone would try such a thing. Anyway, I wrote it off as sheer idiocy, and kept surfing.

The snake soon caught another wave, headed straight at my buddy, and dove at him, again.

Now, I am think, WTF is this guy thinking, and wondering if I am going to have to speak to him about this.

But my buddy was not about to be tackled again. He rolled off, flipped his board up, and dove. The skeg cut off half of the snake's ear - literally, he was spouting blood in the water. We urged him to leave before he lost too much blood.

I didn't show it, but I was laughing really hard inside while this happened. A total freak acting lunatic towards my buddy got a little accidental justice.

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