E's Surf Report: still going..

The west swell continues. The buoys are slightly on the wane but not too much. Winds are, once again, blowing offshore at a mellow 3mph out of the NE. Relatively glassy conditions and overhead+ sets cruising in. During the paddle-out i seemed to duckdive under 3 or 4 immaculate, scrumptious rights. I was literally frothing and drooling to get out there and ride one of them.. but.. as soon as i arrived on the outside the waves stopped. I sat for a while, waiting.. nothing came to me.. about 10 or 15 minutes pass.. i'm drifting north.. still nothing even close to a breaking wave comes my way.. i see a set and then another set break with geometric perfection about 300 yards to the south.. dudes getting speedy rides and cranking abrupt fan-throwing turns. and yet... nadda for yours truly.. I'm still relatively mellow.. telling myself to be patient.. i start paddling south in a vane attempt to get down to the peak i had seen on two sets.. but the current has other ideas about my movement and i end up basically treadmilling for about 10 minutes.. now i'm starting to feel the itch.. the burn.. feelings of persecution, maybe even some slight angst.. The upwelling, stomach-churning rampant need for a wave!! i've seen 20 or 30 delectible waves break, peel and crackle to both the north and south of me.. I've probably been out there almost 40 minutes at this point, and haven't even paddled into anything!! So i basically just start paddling toward shore.. with the idea that i'll just get some kind of little shore-dumper ride to break the hex. Some walling, close-outy peaks come through and i catch a head-high, drop-and-close-out left.. at least a ride.. then this A-frame comes through and i make a late drop and go right.. enjoy the speed for a second and then carve a basic turn into the body of the wave.. ok ok... feeling better.. more waves please! Still drifting north.. i notice a family of waves throw, barrel and peel on the inside.. Rights... picturesque... powerful.. I set myself up to catch one of the next set and sure enough, 5 minutes later i'm stroking into a chiseled, head-high right.. make the drop.. pump pump pump.. flick a little turn off the top.. more pumps.. bank up off the wall... then a long turn at the end as the wave peters.. fun!! Caught another of those.. my ride a bit compromised by the fact that i was slightly unbalanced on the take off and my first top-turn was a little kooky.. but then i regained balance for a semi-legit second top-turn.. Then a barrely left came through and i kind-of air-dropped/pig-dogged the takeoff but somehow ended up riding down the line with my back foot totally off the board.. so it was just my front foot and right hand-on-rail supporting me.. until the wave came down and engulfed my shit.. pretty ugly surfing but kinda weird and enjoyable postures... then another little right and it was time for work...

Lerm said he made the steepest drop of his life. Jake caught a bunch. Loon caught some on his new board.. One dude with a hood caught maybe 25 rides during my session.. causing repeated under-my-breath mutterings like, "He's on another wave!".. and "Dooood! I've got to get me some!!"

sooo.. beautiful, exquisite, powerful, well-shaped, groomed waves out there to be ridden.. maybe better with the 0 low tide today at 5pm?? I didn't have the best sesh but the waves are magnificent.. if not tough to predict...

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photos from triplecrownofsurfing.com