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looks great..

warm, body-hugging air at the beach. Slightly-lumpy but fun-looking head-high waves that will probably clean up in an hour or two streaming into the beach. Still i'm feelin' the sore-throat/cloudy-headed sickness pangs so decided to take one more rest day. Feelings of remorse, longing and forlornness swept through me as i headed east on the N-judah. I gazed out the window at the sparkling, glassy ocean-surface and invigorating blue sky as I headed downtown toward the urban concrete jungle and my appointed, fixed cubicle of grey steel and stone. I imagined the thrill, excitement and pleasure oozing from the copious unridden waves only 3 blocks away.. 4 blocks.. 7 blocks... Having this little 4-day forced mini-break has reawakened my appreciation and thankfulness for this activity we do. After months and months of 6-day-a-week surfs i was starting to get a bit jaded and forgetful about the underlying beauty of this wonderous artform we participate in. My own neurotic tendencies have combined with a subtle self-placed pressure to surf everyday for the sake of the surf report. My gut-driven need to surf everyday has intermeshed with a weird "have to" surf everyday. Now that i've taken a few days off, stepped back a bit, i've realize that surfing, in my life at least, is and should be just for fun. raw, simple, pure fun. Not about.. "I need to surf this many days in this many months to achieve this and this maneuver, etc." I mean, pushing yourself is all well and good.. but, you can't let it cloud the reality of the raw, pulpy essence and joyous euphoria of riding waves. pure, simple. Pulling away from the ocean this morning, longingly looking at the stellar conditions, made me jones just for that enjoyment of catching waves. I think that the primal, rudimentary problem-solving dance of tracking down an unbroken wave, anticipating it's trajectory, catching it and riding it, is probably one of the most enjoyable little quirks of existence i've encountered. This is at the heart of why i don't really care if conditions are 2 feet or 12 feet. I remember a glassy, waist-high summer day a few months back when the waves were breaking in about 2 feet of water. there weren't many people out. I had the fricken best time cruising around the lineup in "hunt" mode.. just trying to catch and ride as many little grinders as i could. loving it. I also remember a peaky, scary, spaced-out, double-overhead groundswell day last winter where some subconscious motivations took me over and i had the best time stroking into and over the ledge of some of the biggest, meatiest waves of my life.. I just liked to catch them.. almost more than riding them..

anyway.. just ramblings.. hope y'all enjoyed catching waves this morning..

well... since i've been a voyeur to this forum for the better part of this fall season, i thought i'd be one of this first to post today.

e... thanks so much for your incredible stoke on surf, mother earth, and smiles that abound with this "wonderous artform". your words rang true with me today. luckily, i was able to play in some nuggets on the southside of OB this morning -- what a holler!!!!

i'll try to chime in more often.

hello all.

Posted by: cw at November 11, 2003 11:37 AM

It was better yesterday.....at least from 6 Am till 11 AM

Posted by: No one in particular at November 11, 2003 11:38 AM

holy crap.... the 3rd photo, how far below sea level is that thing breaking?! and that 6 foot thick lip, uggghhhh. won't catch me pigdogging in there anytime soon.

i love the site. i don't get in the water much right now, though i want to in horrendous ways, and i get in the water vicariously every time i check the report and comments. thanks

Posted by: rednecker at November 11, 2003 11:40 AM

thanks for the words homies!

i was particularly stoked when i first saw the top pic.. with the guy looking out over that tasty left.. nobody out. it's probably a bit bigger than it looks..

Posted by: e at November 11, 2003 01:01 PM

Had a nice one this a.m. at VFWs under the almost full moon. Shoulder-high, a little shifty, breaking nice and close to the beach. Nothing breathtaking, but it's always a good day after you dawn patrol it.

E, good call on the pause that refreshes.

Posted by: redworm at November 11, 2003 01:23 PM

E,

You have always been passionate and had great energy with all your pursuits. Whether it's footbagging or juggling, surfing or guitar. You are an artist and a poet. Fo' real.

Posted by: popsofe at November 11, 2003 02:11 PM

redworm i musta seen ya...was out at veefer's too, on a shortboard for a change (usually ride an egg)...what a morning huh? but i have to say "shifty" was maybe a bit of an understatement from my point of view - "totally crossed up" maybe? but the serene morning encouraged forgiveness and there were a few peaks here and there. have to agree with you too that it's "always a good day after a DP."

Posted by: paul b at November 11, 2003 02:12 PM

Ethan- you have the place wired! I stopped by early this morning, nabbed a few shots, and had a chance to meet Kaiser. Didn't look all that enticing, so I surfed down south. Came back at 11:30. Sunny, light off-shore breeze, and the local vets were killing it. After an hour the wind turned 180 degrees. Hope it switches again for the p.m. crowd. More pics, what else, at

http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%204.htm

Posted by: Bruce at November 11, 2003 02:12 PM

yet another sage insight from our man e.

my appreciation for the hunt has grown exponentially in conjunction with my experience in the water, and particularly with the honing of duck-diving skills. the far more prominent undercurrent in my earlier surfing adventures, especially at ob, was the feeling that i was the one being hunted.

Posted by: loon at November 11, 2003 02:20 PM

late morning middle-o-the-beach firing again....not quite as epic as yester but damn good...started getting crappy at the end...maybe it'll turn back w/ the tide?
if I could only find a way to not work forever

Posted by: toby at November 11, 2003 02:22 PM

damn.. bruce with the beauty pics once again.. sweet.

plethera of peaks

foamy roof

cool lil' pocket

makes me psyched to return to the lineup for tomorrow's dawnie.. aww yizeah..

Posted by: e at November 11, 2003 02:27 PM

e - surf motivation comes and goes.

I always tell myself, there will be times when I'd give anything for waves this good. Then I go surf.

Of course, being out of the water for 3 months gives you good perspective, all for the price of a broken shoulder.

Also, burritos at La Playa Taqueria, 45th and Noriega. New Mex food in the Avenues.

Posted by: blakestah at November 11, 2003 02:44 PM

this mornin's post - pure poetry

Posted by: j at November 11, 2003 02:53 PM

had to rush to the beach at lunch after reading todays ramblings..wanted to get at least 3 fun ones, got maybe 2 it was great though. i think its going to start getting good right now...damn i love those pics..toby let me know if you figure that one out..especially from mid september to late november..this guys pumped

Posted by: bagel at November 11, 2003 03:03 PM

Good going on the breather E! Here in the office, all of the boys always wonder why you surf all those crappy blown out days at OB in the spring and summer, when most of us take off for warmer climes and better waves. But then again, we're all hardened old carps with shitty attitudes who detest crowds and all of these newbies who profess local status after living here for 10 years. In our little small minded world, if you weren't born here, you're not a local. But who gives a shit if you're a local or not, just respect the spot and the boys and don't take more than your share. Fair is fair. After all is said and done, jaded as we are, we all love the E report and love E's stoke, it reminds us all of our grommet days when we'd surf the lousiest sloppiest micro days and tell everyone how epic it was in the morning. Big shoutouts from the crusty balding guys! lovya lots E.

Posted by: frognuts at November 11, 2003 03:32 PM

e...always good to change one's perspective now and again. nice post. Anyone out lately? Things look pretty fun right now on the cam.

Posted by: jdz at November 11, 2003 03:55 PM

frognuts.. thanks for the shout out from the "ol' carps" corner.. Schweeet.. I've seen all y'all ol' craggy guys out there on the solid days.. still representin'..

jdz.. go hit that shite..

Posted by: e at November 11, 2003 04:01 PM


When your not thinking about surf...

Posted by: Kaiser at November 11, 2003 04:17 PM

E, you order the brown turd yet?

Posted by: Kaiser at November 11, 2003 04:27 PM

Kaiser.. damn!! scrumptiously delectible!!!!

brown turd is sort-of ordered

check these..

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