E's Surf Report

People WERE out at aroun 8:30 at Sloat and VFWs. i watched sloat for around 45min. no board in the car today, no surf for me, but with the bouy readings as they were i thought a quick drive by might be fun/torturing. i saw around 4-6 guys out. 2 waves caught, 2 guys paddled out/duck dove for 30min before making it outside. The scene was nice i saw 1 guy who ate shit on the drop, the other guy dropped into a huge DOH+/TOH? backside left that closed out and got EATEN up, then he tried to make it back out but got pushed so far inside that he gave up. later he said "is anyone going north, I paddled out at Rivera", he washed up at Sloat. There are NICE looking waves out there, it could be fools gold for the most of of us, a bruttal paddle and then sitting and waiting for that nice peak to hit. GO FOR IT!!!! it is makeable I think.

Surprisingly not so hot at points directly south of the city today. Dropped my sister off at City College so I bypassed OB completely, assuming it would be beyond my abilities anyway. Sharp Park looked junky from the freeway, Rockajay looked jumbled on the drive down but cleaning up on the way back, Lindy was a long beach-wide closeout although not very big, Montara was jumbled, the Jetty was probably the cleanest that I saw but somewhat shifty and not all that great. Mav's was breaking with a couple guys out and saw a board get washed through the rocks.

A good day if you have time to invest.

Looked at this morn and only saw people denied.

Talked to Judith on the promenade, she was looking for less Slopey waves, and heading to VFW's. I drove around and then decided to think about Lunch. Now it is still looking like too much of a time investment sort of thing. I hope some of you slackers are getting your fill.

I clearly didn't share the stoke as I checked the conditions this morning. The DP routine appeared to be more of a pain in the ass then this "glory" that has been summerized. Spanning the beach, there was 1 dude charging the endless rows of whitewater at Slizz. Paddle, paddle, paddle.... sit, breathe, breathe, sit... paddle, paddle, paddle... Yeap, not moving anywhere... Paddle, breathe, sit, paddle... You get the idea. One other dude "gearing up" for the marathon. As much as I would like to say that the waves were great and worth the effort, they weren't. At least at 6:30-6:45 in the morning they weren't. The conditions were anything but "clean" as I don't think the winds really died off that early last night to make it a sweet session. Maybe I am jaded since I have surfed too many really good sessions over the last 10 days. There was bump and PLENTY of swell. Seemed pretty raw too. No way did it compare to Sunday morning, Sunday afternoon, Monday the 10th, Wednesday the 12th, etc. My gameplan was obvious: skip the 30 minute, cold air, 1 DOH-TOH wave, DP session for a sunny, offshore, milder lunch session.

However, with the swell returning to non-superhuman levels, we should see some fun ones. See ya at the beach.

OB: Shifty, man-eating, messy mega BOMBS careening over the outer bars. Easily DOH, sometimes plus. The inside is total chaos. Sunny and fairly calm but conditions jumbled. I thought no-one was out bu just spied two teeny dots waaay out, scratching over a monster. Take some mega-vitamins, pray for a rip channel, and add an hour to your surf schedule if you dare paddle out, it looks very, very wicked. Talked briefly this am to one OB veteran who tried to paddle out but got skunked, his pal made it though. Last saw said morning surfer drifting towards Japan. Wish I could stay and watch those two surfers now, it looks very exciting.

Cheers,

geez.. sounds a bit more daunting than it looked from my warm, dry, optimistic viewpoint on the dunes this morning.. word!

crrazy shiit..

Days like today make me really want my shoulder to get better. Grab the big foam, charge it out hard for 30 minutes, make a few drops, and run out the elevated stoke for a few days.

On the shoulder, MRI Monday, then time to look into surgery.

Tomorrow, just overhead, still really clean, especially in the morning. Looks like a day for the masses - non-trivial, but any reasonably experienced OB surfer can and will get waves.

Kaiser, life is for living, ya gotta get out there to be part of the incredible energy that is a DOH+ swell hitting the bars. One wave, or 10, it's all good, as long as you give it a shot. Each year you get maybe 10-12 chances to surf the beach as big and clean as today.

just figured out what DOH/TOH means...

anybody surf or check schmlindy this morn?

Reprint for Loon:

For those of you with Knee Problems check out this site:

http://www.kneeguru.co.uk/html/links.html

I sympathize with your shoulder probs. 'Stah, as I have had to battle bad knees (two failed ACL repairs and later arthroscopic cartelege surgery).

Maybe there is a shoulderguru site, Google found none.

Friend #1

ACL free since '94

North end is getting better. Definetely some duck diving but the deep spots are there to paddle out in. SOme fun ones to be had...better than it looks.

N end looked the most friendly this AM as well, but it looked like you paddle out at Cliffhouse and get outside at Lincoln in 10 minutes.

Geez, ya think that guyz board broke? The lip looks a bit thick. Pray for easy surf this weekend. I'm going back in after a month of recovery. Why do I even need a hamstring, I'm a vegetarian?

paul b -- Checked it and it was crap. Beach-wide closeouts at around 8:30am. Rockaway looked better.

Blakestah, did you actually see the beach this morning? Not exactly what many would call "clean" , "epic" conditions. I am sure a few more hours of those offshores you talked about could have helped matters.

Blakestah, hope you get better fast to enjoy the waves that have been coming through.

Looking forward to tommorrow, have to fix a ding from some nuts fin hitting it this weekend at ob. Cant believe it, got my board wacked and my leash broke on the same day, what are the odds of that!!! swimming in and out at OB wrecked my whole session. I have broke 2 Wise leashes in one year span. 3 leashes total. HOW IS IT POSSIBLE!!!

e,

get better soon tommorrow AM should be good.

phil...that's kinda funny about the WISE leashes. When I first moved up here in 92 I was surfing ob on one January day and snapped my leash while getting clobbering by a cleanup set. Then proceeded to get clobbered on the swim in. Anyway, had to go to WISE to get a new leash, told them what happened and got a 10 minute lecture on how the swivel leashes (the one's where the cord is bonded to plastic swivel piece directly) were not strong enough for ob. So I bought one of there leashes and haven't had a problem until this year. Broke one of their newer leashes on a relatively small day and noticed that they are now carrying the same leashes that they warned me against in 92...has leash technology improved???? Anyway, sorry for the ramble...

Saw Christian and Tom in the Sloat lot around noon (no i did not paddle out)...Christian looking very depressed as he had to go to work and was not able to paddle out in the large but fairly clean conditions...saw a lot of chargers getting a lot of good rides. Also saw a lot of long paddles and some good poundings. Good stuff. Tomorrow sounds like it should be good.

a quick report from VFWs, head high and kinda wierd but fun. way way way smaller than sloat, mellow paddle (for OB standards) light current and some decent shoulder, the lefts were better than the rights...the onshore/sideshore flow is happening now and mucking up the sea surface a bit. looks like tomorrow might be shitty if the winds continue to turn towards the north west

Get a 5/16" thick leash. Replace it every year.

Check leashes on big days before you paddle out, just a quickie - look for fraying, etc. You'll lose 90% of the leash breaks this way (and by using a 5/16" instead of 1/4").

Unusually, I just saw a few sets roll through at the Patch. The buoy is 7-8@14, the tide is not low, there must be a LOT of sand there. Probably not too tough to make a paddle-in attempt there - start at Cron, head out, grab a macker, head in....

good advice blakestah...hate snapping a leash! As for the paddle out from Cron...has anyone ever paddle surfed the patch????

Blakestah... good luck tomorrow. Oh the Wise leashes. I got one "free" with a board I purchased there once. Total junk. I assume that their branded ones are the cheapest things they can get so they can give them away with the board. Spend the bucks and get a real one (FCS, DaKine, etc.).

-d

thx for all the helpful advice!!

i surfed the patch one year on my 6'5. it was getting pretty crappy out at fort point so i just paddled out there got this huge right, dropped right into the barrel, got spit out, did like 18 cutbacks than rebounded this huge left that closed out the whole golden gate..ended up getting a ride in from this pricess cruise ship that puff daddy had actually rented out, geez what a party.

saw a doable looking right at kellys this morning..but sounds and looks scary..maybe tomorrow..

i too have snapped a wise leash..

actually i would love to hear any real patch stories or legends..

thanks for that link friend #1. my knee is feeling good enough to go out tomorrow, only problem is an 8:30 conference call -- could be one of those all-paddle-no-ride sessions, but i am game, might even take out my 7'8".

by the way, blakestah, thanks for the motivational posts, all the best on diagnosis and recovery.

I second the recommendation for DaKine leashes. IMO they're the best.

Oddly enough, I have never had a leash break. Maybe cuz I tend to hang onto the board when the waves are bigger. It's a habit from the pre-leash days. Could be just dumb luck.

Kaiser - for what it's worth, it was good at VFWs this AM. The paddle out was a pain but on the outside it was pretty clean. It was hitting the outside bars and breaking a little mushy but the sets had nice peaks and long connected lines. I got a couple of decent waves. So while blakestah probably only thinks it was epic because he couldn't surf, it was definitely fun.

Tomorrow will probably be crappy. I think everyone should go to lindy. ha ha.

hey good luck on your central coast trip boys!..looks like you guys could score..good nightness

WOW! Finally got ot surf this morning after almost 3 weeks without it. Surfed wind and sea. Cracked it. Was in the water at 6, still kinda dark, freezing cold. felt like home. Little over head waves, glassy, fun, but counted 49 people including me waiting on basically a single peak wave. I somehow managed to get 5 very fun, long waves by waiting on for the sets that wrapped wide. Bagel, I heard Grant Washburn and someone else, Doc maybe? tried charging Potato Patch couple years back but were unsuccessful? Anyway I come home Dec 15th. Late on rent last month and this month :-O And working at Starbucks for $7 and hour 43 hours a week doesn't sound to secure/promising anyway. Some mornings I'm up at 3 am to start at 4, and some times working till 10pm. Gotta do what you gotta do, but it still isn't working for me ;) Can't wait to see nicness heads again.

Ian- If you surf big Windan'Sea again, keep an eye on Big Rock to the south. That's the least advetised foam-spitting top-to-bottom left break in LaJolla. OK, I'm biased. This was my playground when I was in 9th Grade.

Hi e!
loved your pictures from that Munich standing wave a few days back. I used to go there as a kid quite a bit. A bit downstream there is an area in a park where people sunbathe in clothes on one side and naked on the other... German hippie style.
Will be out in the Bay area for a couple of days soon, hope the waves are good...
Ian, hope things go well-it'll be nice to have you back in the Bay Area too though.

Kaiser, I cannot count the number of times I paddled out when others thought it looked disorganized or not good.

The reality is, ya never know on a DOH day until you get out there. The paddle is all through warbly water. Then, the sea surface gets smooth when you are ALMOST out. And, then you realize it is glassy out there, and lining up may or may not be a huge problem. If lining up is easy, usually the drop isn't. Doesn't matter though - one wave or ten, the stoke from each solid wave is immense. After you drop in, it may mush, close, or rip down the line........

Doc tried to surf the Patch unsuccessfully. Others have paddled to the "next set of bars" and found it extremely difficult to line up.

But I am telling you, the Patch today was breaking in one spot only, outside Cron, and not on a super huge swell. There is much more sand there than usual, I think. It's gotta be doable.

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