E's Surf Report: not much..

woke up to some brisk NW winds.. The ocean wasn't utterly blown-out at 6:30.. but.. it was on it's way. Globules of foam speedily wafted east as the wind pressed shoreward. I sat at Sloat for a few minutes, considering. lt's within the range of surfability... Largest waves approaching headhigh+. A few shoulders bespeckled the lineup. but.. conditions are crumbling toward ugliness with each daylight moment.. So.. I voyaged south.. hoping for protection on the leeward side of the Princeton Jetty.. thinking maybe the swell packed enough oomph and the tide not too high over the rocks.. but.. nada down there.. The surface looked scrumptiously glassy. Waist-high, cracklin' peaks rose up, dumped or quickly-peeled along.. but.. the few rideable waves broke almost directly on top of the inside rocks. It wasn't working.. On my way back i noticed a few brave souls out at the 'mar.. You could probably find a few there.. and probably a superior few at OB..

Surprisingly enough the wind was actually blowing offshore when i left for work at 8:30.?. hmmm...

also.. It was so glassy at the Jetty.. if you have time you might score down at Kelly ave or at spots south (martins, Pomponio, etc.)?? dunno.. but it's worth a check..

anyway.. soo.. have a great 4-day weekend. hopefully i'll be hooting many of you into disgusting OB barrels tomorrow morning!! we'll see. My rule of thumb about hyped swells is to try to keep your expectations low.. Think blown-out, ugly drivel.. and you'll most likely be pleasantly surprised..

also congrats to jdz.. who will now be a dad of 2!?! crazy.

On Turkey day (or any day) remember to give thanks for being a surfer. For being lucky enough to live near the ocean. For being healthy enough to paddle out and ride the waves. For being aware enough to realize how lucky you/we are! Ride a wave for your bro landlocked in Fresno. Or for your grandpa with the fucked knees. Or for those villagers outside Harare who barely scrape by with the essentials of survival. Surfing is a celebration and a privilage. Most people on earth don't have the resources or luck to devote much of their lives to an activity of leisure. While surfing may nourish the soul and pacify your inner-being.. it doesn't put food on the table or shelter over your head. We're lucky. Be thankful.

nice

cool surfboard from the Jason Bogle benefit on oahu

flavio

tim curren

kaiser made me post this