large, burly and unsurfable.
Big, bulbous, out-of-control waves this morning. Definitely smaller than yesterday morning but still wild and untamed. Torrential downpours last night have overflowed some storm drains and caused some flash-flooding. I'd wager the water is pretty dirty right now as last night marked the first official heavy rain of the year. Anything that hadn't already loosened from its land-based moorings by the sporatic rain of weeks past now has.
the pipe masters is on standby this morning. The first day will be for the trials.
work beckons.. good luck with surf today??
photos from Sarge
santa cruz a few days ago
Posted by: e at December 11, 2003 10:58 AMOB: Replica of yesterday, but half sized. Cape Horn's little sister. Sunny, windy, and utterly jumbled. Rained so hard last night it sounded like a mob was pounding their fists on all the windows. Tons of fresh...goodies on the beach. Next surf wear your bomb proof suit! Cheers,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 11, 2003 11:08 AMDoes anyone have any thoughts about what's happening to the bottom at OB with the huge surf?
Wise once mentioned to me that the reason OB is able to hold large surf so well and still maintain the shape is b/c there is a rock shelf not too far beneath the sand on the outer bars. Kinda makes sense to me. In general I always figured breaks close to a river mouth benefitted from rain as silt and sand washed out to create new bars; and beachbreaks usually got messed up as the carefully built sandbars got washed away. Thoughts?
Posted by: Mike V. at December 11, 2003 11:20 AMMike V. i definitely think that OB's position just outside the mouth of the bay brings a steady flow of sand and silt spread throughout the lineup.. It seems that it helps keep OB from becoming a steep beach like sharp park.
looks like both OB water quality checkpoints tested positive for high bacteria levels..
There has been a change in the status of one or more of the beach monitoring points in:
Ocean Beach
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted
Posted by: e at December 11, 2003 11:36 AMHELP! what's a good gift for my surfer boy (late 30's)? Mostly longboards all over. I've only got $100. Many thanxs!
Posted by: small waves at December 11, 2003 11:36 AMHELP! what's a good gift for my surfer boy (late 30's)? Mostly longboards all over. I've only got $100. Many thanxs!
Posted by: small waves at December 11, 2003 11:37 AMdamn, i dont think ive ever seen a shot of a left at the harbor is that even where that is? sick
Posted by: bagel at December 11, 2003 11:44 AMBeen reading these posts for awhile now, and it never ceases to amaze me how much solid advice is offered up. With that being said, I am looking for some advice/opinions on boat trips to the Mentawais. I am looking to go with a small group 3-4 people in the upcoming summer, or possible getting few more peeps and getting a boat for ourselves. Who knows...
I am curious if anybody here has had any positive or negative experiences with these charters and can offer any suggestions/recommendations? I've only been on one boat trip before, and I was allready in Bali at the time and booked it with some guy on the street for only $250.00 for a week. Sweet deal and totally legit.
If you don't want to post it here, or have a ton of stuff to say, please feel free to email me. Thanks for the help...
Posted by: jw at December 11, 2003 12:01 PMmentawais:
although i have never been you can take this for what its worth. i have a friend in LA who goes every year and has been going since '97. he says its worth every penny of the 5K total cost per person, here is a copy of the email he sent to me when i asked about the boat he charters:
I go the mentawais every year...9 years running. We go on the Indies
Posted by: dsx at December 11, 2003 12:29 PMTrader. They have several boats with different levels of quality and
service. We usually go on the Indies Trader II. It is the least
expensive in their fleet. It takes 8 people and each person pays $3650
for 12 to 13 days - about $300 bucks a day. This year we got upgraded to
the Adventure Komodo which is their biggest newest boat. We paid the
old prices as if we were on the IT II, but we cannot count on that
discount next year, so we will probably be back on the IT II. The surf
is awesome every year. Last year was the best ever. Huge double/triple
overhead perfect spitting waves. Got the biggest best barrels of my
life. This year was average. A couple of days with 10-12 footers, most
days 5-8 feet, and two days of small weak stuff. Remember though that
the worst day in Indo is better than the best day in Southern
California.
There are a number of different charter companies out there now.
However, the Indies Trader was the first charter in the area and has the
most experienced captains who know where to go given any wind/swell
direction. The other boats tend to try to follow us around to find out
where to go so we always have to play this game of cat and mouse. We
will pull anchor at 4am and head north and swing around some little
island and then, when we are out of site, we make our move south or
wherever we are really trying to go.
Bottom line...Indies Trader is the best, but it is hard to find a spot.
you would need to approach them with 8 people and charter the whole
boat. Otherwise, you'll have to go with me. I have a whole charter
reserved every year. There are less expensive boats that definitely get
the job done, but you don't want to go too low budget. This kind of
trip you want to do in style. It's the equivalent of going helicopter
skiing. Don't screw around with some small shitty boat with bad food or
you will be miserable.
All said and done...$5000.
Getting the best tubes of your life....priceless
a nice south american peak....
Posted by: dsx at December 11, 2003 12:34 PMSmall waves -
Get your boy some surf accesories, booties, rash shirt, hood, leash, the list goes on.
Posted by: Friend #1 at December 11, 2003 12:39 PMsmall waves.. also the "Stormriders Guide to North America" is perhaps THE best bathroom reading book i've ever encountered!
damn dsx.. that's a frickin gigantic wave! very scary!
Posted by: e at December 11, 2003 12:45 PMThat has got to be Pico Alto???? Peru??
Posted by: at December 11, 2003 01:01 PMyes, nice work, that is Pico Alto, Peru from June 14th, 2003, its nice to know there are some decent waves on the west coast in June...
Posted by: dsx at December 11, 2003 01:11 PMI am off to Lima for Christmas with my wife so i have been scoping peruvian surf sites for a while...get the stoke up. last year i was there it was firing 3-6' sunny warm and light crowds.....SA surfers paradise.
Greetings-
Just back from a dawner at the Lane. Expected more swell but was happy with 6-8' peaks at the point and middles. Offshore winds and very smooth ffaces. Steep takeoffs with mushy but very workable walls. Very uncrowded. Also pretty inconsistent, especially with the high tide.
On the way back up Pigeon Pt looked like a dream with head high sets winding in. That place is gonna be an incredible point break in the distant future.
Posted by: kdalle at December 11, 2003 01:13 PMdsx if it's not too much trouble (and i'm sure it is with all the crazy politics and paperwork down there) i highly recommend northern chile while you're down there... it's insane! here's me on a nugget this past june:
Posted by: bbr at December 11, 2003 01:37 PMi imagine that wave is from the same swell that the Pico Alto shot is. I was in northern chile years ago and checked a spot i think they call "el gringo" in Arica just off the jetty to the south it, looked heavy no one was on it. there were a couple guys surfing the other side where it was pretty tame and mushy.
Posted by: dsx at December 11, 2003 01:44 PMbbr...nice shot!! looks pretty epic...and on the heavy side. sweet.
kdalle...i'm sooooo jealous. nice work.
small waves...in addition to e's and Friend #1's suggestions...a subscription to a mag or two is always kewl. he likely already gets it, but if he's into longboarding, Longboard Magazine is pretty quality, imo. also, you can think of the "part of a bigger purchase" gift; e.g., $100 towards a new wetty. finally...don't forget about the Reef calendar! it's the perfect way for him to keep track of his seshies. ; )
Posted by: ck at December 11, 2003 02:06 PMI surfed Chicama the day of the at Pico Alto Swell and it was only about 6 feet and not lining up the whole way, but dirty barreling at Hombres and Town sections. DSX, when you go in December do you go to the North, cause I can't really agree with Lima or Hermosa being surfer's paradise. Also I don't think there is much trouble going into Chile, I met a bunch of guys who had been to Arica and were going back to break their boards before going home.
Posted by: G at December 11, 2003 02:14 PMIf that shot at the top is SC it's got to be the Murph bar on a killer day.
Posted by: at December 11, 2003 02:15 PMnice one bbr, that wave looks crazy
Posted by: bagel at December 11, 2003 02:15 PMIf that shot at the top is SC it's got to be the Murph bar on a killer day.
Posted by: at December 11, 2003 02:16 PMI always surf the reefs south of lima. when the swell is on there are soooo many great waves. the north is all lefts and i am regular foot so i prefer the southern lima breaks. but northern Peru is all time. for proximity to a major city i dont think it gets much better than lima. IMHO.
Posted by: dsx at December 11, 2003 02:18 PMlooks like pipe is starting to work. hate to be that guy on the inside impact zone about to be hammered.
Posted by: at December 11, 2003 02:29 PMAh Peru ... We were there a couple of years ago, surfing mostly in the north. Huanchaco and Pacasmayo were fun beachbreaks (the Lighthouse point at Pacasmayo wasn't working at all that week). Chicama was tiny - waist/chest high, but peeling like a Rick Griffin cartoon.
Posted by: Jimmie at December 11, 2003 02:37 PMWe surfed Lima at Herradura - the filthiest water I've ever been in. After a couple hours in the oil slick, dodging condums and God-knows-what-else, we passed a dead puppie floating around the inside on our paddle back to the car.
and you all thought linda mar was crowded...just another day on the north shore hollywood style.
Posted by: at December 11, 2003 02:52 PMditto on e's suggestion of the stormrider's guide. received that as a gift last year, great reading!
what about some new sandals, some sunscreen, there's some new book out 'encyclopedia of surfing' or something, new videos are always nice, kelly slater's pro surfer video game, one of them car cooler/heater things for long road trips, blah blah blah
that, or hotwire/priceline a ticket to hawai'i for him.
Posted by: j at December 11, 2003 03:31 PMpapa buoy is back up to 18ft 20seconds.. California buoy is just starting to feel it at 15ft 20 seconds.. Geeez!! we're getting annihilated ovah heah! Maybe late-afternoon santa cruz runs?? the tide is pretty high in the mornings..
anybody know a good, protected, high-tide spot??
Posted by: e at December 11, 2003 03:56 PMahhh.. santa cruz!!
Posted by: e at December 11, 2003 04:00 PMjeezus those santa cruz shots are too much..
Posted by: bagel at December 11, 2003 05:04 PMdsx thnx for the Mentawai info. By all accounts the place is amazing. I hope I can make it work!!
Posted by: jdz at December 11, 2003 06:42 PMGod Bless Mr. Wise and his stock of longboards and discontinued wetsuits. But the charts say that what lies offshore of OB is silt/sand. The Continental Shelf (yes, we do cap it) is a bit further out.
Posted by: searoom99 at December 11, 2003 07:13 PMNow the question becomes:How much of the gold/silver which was stripped out of the Sierras lies in those offshore silt beds? Gentlemen, burn those surfboards and buy submersibles! We is a going gold huntin', to hell with surfing!
The surf at OB benefits from a semi-circle sand bar in front of the Gate.
But to understand it all, you gotta understand wave refraction first. When longer period waves hit shallow water (shallow relative to the period - a 20 second wave has a period in the kilometer range), they bend towards the shallow water.
So, with a semi-circle sandbar, the waves all bend towards the center of the circle. Roughly speaking, this acts like a lens on the swell. Ever take a magnifying glass and use it to burn something - same principle. The swell direction determines where the waves focus. More southerly swells focus further north on the beach, and more northerly swells focus further south. This is why OB is often bigger than other beaches to the north and south.
Also, the sandbars set up like a super humongous river mouth. Strong longshore currents move it all around, create channels and shallow spots. With 3 miles of bars, it is always working someplace. We have relatively shallow water for a LONG distance away from shore.
I've heard enough people claim the drought years (80s) were the glory years to believe it. Offshore winds were the predominant pattern causing the lack of rain, and they also tend to make the surf good. Of course, most of the people surfing here then are now old and past their prime, so it is natural they would claim it was better when they were younger than it is now. And, the older they get, the better it was ;)
We have a very unique setup.
Posted by: blakestah at December 11, 2003 08:52 PMdawn patrol. wind's gone good for a few hours, let's see if the raw is palatable. Significant long period in the mix - it won't be small.
Posted by: banjo at December 12, 2003 05:16 AMJeez-
Every time I see photos by Wasylko I want to toss my camera off the nearest bridge. Ethan, he's supposed to have his first movie coming out soon. Have you heard when it will preview?
Really nice guy, too.
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