E's Surf Report: big.. glory day

SF buoy up around 9ft 20sec. Got a call from Christian that woke my arse up around 7:15. He said it looked big and good. Hrmm.. I had already bailed on the morning thanks to some late night revelry... Sometimes ya just gotta party a bit and maybe miss a morning!! or something.. Anyway.. then Robme called me 20 minutes later. He was watching Christian paddle out through the 8 rows of whitewater at Sloat. The Bro-zillian supposedly squeaked out with relative ease... compared to some others who were reportedly getting thumped and pulverized by the incoming bombs. Then Robme tells me of Christian taking off on a huge, double-overhead beast.. taking a elongated, super-steep, extendo drop to the bottom.. then back up to the top for a nice turn.. whence the wave sucked out and got all heinously hollow again.. and Christian nearly air-dropped off his top turn.. back down.. back up and top turned again.. Robme said it was quite impressive!! Go Christian!!
Sooo.. it looks big.. but with lulls to make it doable. I received an email from OceanBeachAlerts stating that OB was again below acceptable levels of bacteria.. soo.. that's good.. or.. bad.. depending on whether or not you skipped today's session because of assumed health risks.. I'll wager that much of the coast will light up somethin' fierce today! There is very little wind and the swell looks powerful and serious. Man.. I don't usually like to admit it.. but i reallly was tempted to call in sick and head down the coast.. but.. another day.

soo.. good luck out there.. not sure what the best spot will be? Maybe in town as the tide drops or even some Marin spots if the wind stays light or easterly? But if i wasn't working i know where i'd be headed today.. SOUTH!

Soo.. Kaiser and Marco are in Baja scoring huge! and Jake is in Indo getting the sweetness.. and Christian is dropping bombs at home. And Bagel is currently mid-flight to Hawaii and other peeps are contemplating the Mentawais and Kus and Hennessey in Jersey are enjoying some jersey juice today.. check these pics..

Jersey juice (pics from localswell.com)

also.. it looks like the pipe masters will start today in about an hour (10:30 pacific time)

between those Jersey pics and tales of Christians bravado, i'm jonesin' sumpthin' fierce!! but...by the sounds of Blakestah's report...local conditions will soon jump beyond this kid's skills (if they aren't already! ; ). hmmm...maybe a roadtrip is in order this weekend...

Christian - nice work chargin' it! i wish i coulda seen it.

Posted by: ck at December 12, 2003 10:11 AM

Damn!

Should have braved the paddle at Sloat.

Doof and I opted for the easier paddle out at the North end.

Dude on a Surf Ski was having the most fun. Paddling into the somewhat mushy monsters that rolled through. I managed to catch 5 rides but they were mostly just a big drop going left or a somewhat longer and mushier ride going right.

Doof was on the board he had made in Hawaii, and I guess it was no good on California waves as he only got one wave, the one he rode in.

At least we got out there. The thing about OB as it gets bigger: the less you go out, the less you want to go out. Got to keep the stoke going, as well as keep the realization going that the waves are not going to kill you afterall.

Lumpy on the North end with one wave sets, probably similar in the middle.

S is probably firing unless the tide is f-ing it up.

Posted by: Friend #1 at December 12, 2003 10:19 AM

man, its funny how varied the reports can be at OB, Wise is calling 3-6' and so-so, Surfpulse is calling DOH and seriously strong and Surfline is call 4-7' shoulder to head high plus....
sounds likes it solid overhead with larger sets towards the south. hopefully the winds wont be too nasty saturday.

Posted by: dsx at December 12, 2003 10:27 AM

FPers?

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Posted by: e at December 12, 2003 10:57 AM

cool pics. what rivermouth is that....looks fun.

Posted by: dsx at December 12, 2003 10:58 AM

Posted by: e at December 12, 2003 10:59 AM

i think it's the russian rivermouth... sorry to all you sonoma heads that cringe when you read that..

I've driven by it maybe 10 times and never seen it work.

Posted by: e at December 12, 2003 11:09 AM

yeah thats the russian river mouth. i just checked the http://www.californiacoastline.org and you can tell by the rocks in the background. thats a nice wave. too bad i will never surf it. too much driving for a spot that may or may not be good. and if its good i imagine that OB is probably 10x better.

Posted by: dsx at December 12, 2003 11:33 AM

Russian Rivermouth == Fickle and really, really sharky!!

Posted by: mwsf at December 12, 2003 12:02 PM

damn. e and i must have been on the party karma flow. i figured the today would be a duplicate of yesterday - raw and crazy - and got some late night drink on. woke up too late and with a hurtin noggin. and it looks soooo good. maybe i can sneak out of work early?!?

an update to the holiday travel niceness crew - i'll be in brazil next wednesday. 3 weeks total. spending 1.5 weeks on santa catarina island (where the ASP event was held). not the best season for surf, but i'll be in warm water with nuthin but boardshorts.

Posted by: caveman at December 12, 2003 12:14 PM

Went for a jog this morning, the set waves REALLY lit up the bars. So, I grabbed my cam, and hit Sloat for some taping.

It was big, but not all that great. Got some Brazilians on waves, but this sponge was KILLIN IT. Seriously, I think he got a wave for every standup wave, and there were 5-8 standup surfers.

Paddle out wasn't bad on a size-adjusted scale, either.

Talked to Christian afterwards, think I started shooting just after his illustrious ride. We'll see who shows up on film.

Also, the beach is gonna go off this afternoon and tomorrow morning, for the outer bar chasing folks.

Also, Ryan got into the Mavs contest!

Posted by: blakestah at December 12, 2003 12:29 PM

OK, after seeing that photo of the crowd at Pipe I'm cancelling my trip.

Posted by: kdalle at December 12, 2003 12:47 PM

The ultimate playground...

Posted by: Kaiser at December 12, 2003 02:49 PM

pipe masters live streaming vid at triplecrownofsurfing.com..

it's fully going off.

deeaaammnnn!!

Posted by: e at December 12, 2003 03:27 PM

Congratulations Ryan!

Posted by: Meow at December 12, 2003 03:34 PM

How big your think those Jersey guys were calling the waves at the top?

Posted by: kdalle at December 12, 2003 05:50 PM

How big you think those Jersey guys were calling the waves at the top?

Posted by: kdalle at December 12, 2003 05:52 PM

what with the storm, yesterday was the gotta do it. I was out where the 2 friends and the paddle guy. Really inconsistent, but when the big dogs came you got religion. Hard north current. Felt good getting what I did - the drop and speed rush from doh+ make even a couple a "good day". Bummed to hear bug levels were up in the water - the way the waves and current churn things I figured even 24 hours of no rain could dilute the levels enough. No earache (yet). When is SF (ever) going to get its shit together? Is this down to street runoff? Any water biologists or surfrider watchdogs out there with the SF haps? Could be shut down for the weekend.

Posted by: banjo at December 13, 2003 08:44 AM

Rockaway today: OH+. Beautiful shape. Crowded. I opted for smaller protected lindy, due to the angle I think. Good times.

Posted by: Ian at December 13, 2003 09:43 PM

yeah smokeajays looked good saturday but by the time i got back from checking lindy the crowd had jumped from 10 to almost 20. over it. looks like the next few days are gonna be good, too bad my work is out of control right now.

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