lumpy and bumpy but cleaning up
Yesterday was a weird wind day. I guess a front passed over us or something because in the morning the wind blew *hella* strong out of the south.. at around 18mph.. you probably felt your house shake a bit on saturday night.. then by sunday mid-day the wind was blowing strait out of the west.. then, gradually, through the afternoon, the wind shifted around to the NW.. and then by nightfall last night it was coming directly out of the north.. Soo.. this morning the winds are blowing out of the ENE.. but not that strong. The swell, (7ft 13sec at the SF buoy) is large and lumpy.. but rapidly cleaning up and getting more surfable. The Papa buoy is back up to 22ft 13seconds.. soo.. our window of relative OB mellowness might be confined to this afternoon and tomorrow morning. Pretty much higher tides throughout the day. With this NE wind and solid swell you just KNOW that most north-county santa Cruz spots are on super-fire RIGHT NOW!! soo.. again.. if you're Jonny work-at-home or Nigel No-job.. get your arse down there right now.
I spent the day on saturday driving the coast and hunting out attractive lineups. I surfed a big, shifty, sub-par right reef 11 miles north of town with only 3 others for about two hours in the morning. I passed on a better wave about 13 miles north of town because of the 20 dudes clogging the idyllic situation. But.. my sesh ended up being really enjoyable. Big overhead+ set-waves would lurch in, rise up and powerfully break.. before mushing or ending on the shoulder. I caught about 15 rides.. mostly big drops followed by a cutback into the meat of the wave. Two older blokes were the only ones out there with me the majority of the time and they were super smily and really enjoying the big-wavy situation. One of them had a big, bightly-colored gun and would hoot loudly for himself while dropping into each of his waves. He was cool. After the sesh i hit up Cafe Brazil for an Acai bowl.. then watched the inconsistent, non-crowded?? action at the Lane for 30 minutes while i waiting from a call-back from Ward Coffee about whether the Brown turd was ready... next weekend.. then i drove back up the coast looking for a second sesh.. 4-miles up, in a little cove.. not too crowded.. but disheveled, shifty and seemingly tough to lock into a smooth one.. the S winds were causing mild destuction. Got back in my car.. drove about 500 yards.. then pulled over to watch an immaculate, perfect-looking right peel and feather at a spot i've never seen surfers out. Nobody out this time either.. and i'm not sure if/how you could get out there.. but.. a beautiful, virgin?? (doubtful) wave breaking about 5 or 6 miles north. Then at 11 miles, the left was working purdy good.. but again inconsistent.. One shredder taking names on the infrequent walls.. airs and giant gaffs.. then at 13 miles about 25 guys out at the muscular, churning, absolutely working right-hander. Watched one guy destroy the lip about 8 times on one ride.. Just bottom turn, then BLAM! then bottom turn.. then BLAM.. etc.. impressive.. but.. i wasn't up for jostling and battling and growling for waves.. soo.. kept going.. south winds not friendly at Waddell.. made up all the way back up to Lindy.. where the surface was smoothed out and the lips feathering and holding from the strong offshore wind. Most waves closed out but many did not! Tons of waves threading in.. zero vibes.. i was out there.. caught about 20 little rides.. fun!
soo.. this afternoon and tomorrow morning.. get on it..
e
Jersey (lbi) pics from LBIsurfer (pics from day after "big wednsday") -- pics posted here on E's on Friday
Hi E and All,
planning on going on a surf trip in late jan.
funds are not so high so I think I might go solo to the baja surf adventures camp. Stay at the camp break.
Anyone go there, is it worth the $.
THX FOR ANY ADVICE
Posted by: Phil Young at December 15, 2003 12:14 PMHey, Ethan. I surfed that North County spot you passed on Saturday and it was fun, but I got there before the crowds. Quite a bit of energy-- I got whacked a few times and saw a couple of broken boards.
The wind/rain was so heavy on Saturday night in SC I thought the roof would blow off our cottage. Then Sunday morning I woke to crystal clear skys with no wind. Drove to the Lane and couldn't believe it. No more than 20 guys out with the Slot, Indicator, and the Middle Peak all breaking. The low wasn't that low, so it was a bit mushy and shifty but there were some walls to be had. It also got busy when the cell phone network kicked in.
Added some pictures to the site, as long as you're not too picky about quality.
http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%205.htm
Posted by: Bruce at December 15, 2003 01:07 PMon sat i too drove the coast as far as san gregorio, southwest wind seemed to be messing things up enough at that point that i turned around to have a go with a large group at flock-toabay. got a few drops but the locals were dominating...sounds like i should have kept driving!
looking fun this afternoon, go get it if you can, i'll be hitting ob for the chilly dp tomorrow, see you out there.
Posted by: loon at December 15, 2003 01:09 PMOn the Baja Surf Adventures Camp; Yea, the guy that runs the camp takes really good care of you or at least he did while I was there. The food was great, in fact more then I expected. The cabins you sleep in are cozy. The surf wasn't working too well when I was there but that's out of his control and they did work to put us onto waves when it wasn't working in front of the camp. We did catch one nice day out in front of the camp and it's indeed a fun wave. All in all a very mellow and laid back atmosphere where all you have to do is worry about surfing and keeping your beer cold. I'd definitely like to hit it up again.
Posted by: Mr B at December 15, 2003 02:23 PMA quick afternoon update:
Posted by: dsx at December 15, 2003 03:02 PMas Christian can atest to Sloat was working today. However given the DOH size and my limited time (long lunch break) I decide to take my chances at VFWs and spend more time surfing than paddling, although the Sloat paddle didnt look bad, just far. Well it was so-so at the north end, nothing like sloat was. i got several overhead waves and took a few on the head, overall a nice day considering the mess that has been OB for the last few days. looks like tuesday will be fun. maybe a bit more organized if the winds stay in the right direction, when i was leaving it felt like it was moving to a more solid Northerly direction very side shore, not offshore like it was in the am. we shall see tomorrow.
YAH! Back home finally! Good to be back. Can't wait to see you guys out in the water. Congrats to Alex for the invitation!! The contest should be sick.
Posted by: Ian at December 15, 2003 03:28 PMif you can go- then GO
it's awesome out there.
seriously awesome
Posted by: toby at December 15, 2003 04:04 PMlight crowd everyone stoked, medium paddle out...DOH on set- peeling offshore- wheew!!!
OB: whoop, missed lunch, but if you're going out now the outter bars are very shifty and crunchy but definitely throwing bombs if you're quick enough to can catch one. Inside a total wreck. Paddle out looks like a lot of duck diving and zig zagging. Working sections of middish OB are not necessarily the usual suspects. Also warning: if you are aware of where my apartment is, there has been a severe swath of Wave Repellent stemming directly from my place, cruising out to sea and about 100 meters wide. Every person I've seen who's picked seemingly nice channel today has spent the majority of the time paddling north, paddling south, waiting...chasing... and being utterly stuck. Do not be fooled! Pick another channel...Cheers...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 15, 2003 04:06 PMthanks for the reports.. I think the differences between sharkbait's and Toby's reports are very telling.. OB is a fickle beast.. her goods are dished out guardedly, and with much caution. Sounds like Toby scored a few.. but many/most? aren't feelin the love..
can't wait till tomorrow!! stoked!
Be on the lookout for a fresh-from-indo Jocular Jake the next few days..
welcome back Ian!
Posted by: e at December 15, 2003 04:29 PMToby's right...the huge waves look awesome
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 15, 2003 04:45 PM[ to this neophyte ] but I ended up yammering about my direct area because EVERYONE who paddled out in this okay-looking spot directly out front today has ended up so skunked or near-skunked. A LOT of effort being expended. Then I swept my binoculars up and down the stretch [ geek ] and other microcosms were a whole different story.. . Ahh OB what a great teacher...
layne beachley wins her 6th world title..
i was a bit bummed as i'd rather Keala win it.. but.. whatevs.
rochelle
keala
honolua bay
Posted by: e at December 15, 2003 05:04 PMyeah- def. did some looking around b4 I paddled...got lucky too.
Needed that in a bad way...been getting burned lots lately
Posted by: toby at December 15, 2003 05:18 PMYeah, the bars are set up.
And, fairly differently from last year. Some really spectacular bars in unusual places.
Its gonna be an interesting year.
Wednesday morning I'm gonna shoot, just in case anyone is out at SLOAT. I'll start between 8:30 and 9.
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