E's Surf Report: SUUURRRFFFF!!

Rode Lurpy inside-outside whacky-jacky shelf-bombs this morning with Doof.

Some great but short rides, some tremendous backcracking whipeouts, some time on the inside with an anchor tied to my leash, and some great rides for which I didn't get into position quickly enough or just didn't make the drop.

When we got out and looked at what we were riding, it looked like we must have been nuts.

Total hurdy-gurdy madness.

No wonder there was only 5-10 surfers spread out over three blocks.

If nothing else, good maintenance in advance of tomorrow.

At least a cup of water drained from my nose as I rinsed off.

Posted by: Friend #1 at December 16, 2003 11:05 AM

word.. nice report Friend #1!

Posted by: e at December 16, 2003 11:33 AM

what a killah morning!! if you could get past the arctic-esque breeze that made the into and (especially) the out-of wetty change a bit on the brisk side! to say the least! ; )

hit sliz at dawn with Kaiser. we watched it for a bit, didn't see anything working regularly (well...except some punishing inside bars!), and decided to hit it and just see what happened. i only scored a handful of rides, but got two that (combined with yet another schweet sunrise!) made it well worth braving the chlling temps! one was early in the sesh and was a smooth-as-silk right that walled up just right for uber speed down the line in front of the crashing lip! the other was later in the sesh after we moved outside to see if we could snag some of the bound-to-be-elusive, but way-too-tempting-not-to-try set waves. i only scored one outside wave before returning to the more critical inside, but it offered a couple long, fast, drawn out, top-to-bottom turns before swelling out in the middle. felt goooood!

on the way back out, i had the perfect inside position to watch Kaiser catch the tail wave of the set. he dug hard to get into the beast, made the tricky drop, and then bottom-turned as a long left wall reared up before him! i lost him behind the whitewater as he was cutting up the face for his top turn, but given the distance down the line that he reappeared, it must have been sweet!

so stoked to receive such a great going away gift from our beloved beach! i head out of town for 1.5 weeks manana so all you heads will, undoubtedly, score in epic fashion in the coming days! ; )

sorry for the long blab. hasta.

Posted by: ck at December 16, 2003 11:52 AM

OB: Happy hunting, surf is holding albeit it sounds mushier ( wasn't here ) than this am. Currently seeing waist/head highs, occasional larger ones on teasing outer bars, BUT conditions are totally changeable every 200 yards. 200 yards of the largest, most disorganized waves w/ a couple of peeps struggling to find the peak or paddle fast enough or avoid the inside washing machine....to 200 yards of waist high at most lull mushy section...to fast peely section...some spots offering teeny tiny barrels, maybe one every 20 minutes...just crouch waaay down...then another lull...then someone catching what looks like a slow waist/shoulder roller.... far off in another direction are yet again some totally speedy nuggets with moveable peaks. Seeing a few heads scattered all up and down the stretch. I think if you drive around right now you might find something to fit your surf mood. Caveat w/incoming tide, I guestimate increasing mush. Overall it's like an OB sampler plate. Currently sunny, calm and/or light offshores, haze on the horizon. Cheers!

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at December 16, 2003 12:22 PM

fuuuuckk!

Posted by: e at December 16, 2003 12:38 PM

It is pretty clear swell will build until at least early afternoon. Spectators, I would recommend the 10 AM to 1 PM window, it gets too much sun glare after that. I am not sure I would recommend anyone paddling out - I'm pretty sure with Hawaiians flying in that the westside boyz will be in town too, which means that unless you are at least as good as Christian, getting a wave in edgewise will be tough. Of course, you can expect Ryan and Grant to sample the waves heavily...

This one is so well-predicted, so far in advance, it will be a complete zoo. I can't wait.

Posted by: blakestah at December 16, 2003 12:40 PM

I like my graphics better than Franks (I wrote mine after he wrote his - we are friends are we sorta bouncing ideas off each other). The top row is the 25 second energy, the highest energy is the 20 second energy. Tomorrow will be dominated by 20 and 25 second energy.

Posted by: blakestah at December 16, 2003 12:44 PM

surfed dp just south of e. things started slow for me, brought out toom uch board and couldn't quite get the timing right on my takeoffs. but then i caught one nice left wall, and on the way back out i was starting to think that things were improving when i took a set wave to the head, lost hold of my board, went thru the wash cycle and managed to bump my noggin on my board, which resulted in a minor laceration (despite my hood). went in, home, then the wife sent me to the ER. all i got was glue, and clearance to go back in the water whenever i want! so i am taking a sick day and heading back out for a double...yee ha!

Posted by: loon at December 16, 2003 01:06 PM

Well, looks like I will be a spectator tomorrow unless I can find the alley where the olas are only DOH or less!!!!

This Morning: Well, we had everything in-line. Swell, winds, etc. but for some reason, it just wasn't reaching its full potential. Either we needed another foot or more of swell or a foot or 2 less of tide, or both. Barely breaking on the outers, crushing on the inners.

Got in with CK somewhere on the southern end of the beach. Watched a couple of guys stuff them selves on the inside bars. 2 feet of water and monster hollowness. I tried those for a bit then decided to be patient and paddle deeper outside. Nice set came, reared up, CK took on right and got a long ass ride. 2 waves later I scored a sweet ass left.

All in all, 3 waves in total. Happy to get just the one! To all you brass-ballsackers, I will be safely on the beach tomorrow making sure you are caught on film! Get after it.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 16, 2003 01:10 PM

OB: huh waves looking a bit bigger, all around a bit more powerful. Not cleaner, but more oomph. Just saw one wicked over-the-falls...ooouuuch that one hurt!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 16, 2003 01:17 PM

just got back from Sloat and well...it seems as though it looks better than it really is, i found a few outside waves and then looooonnnnngggg lulls like 20min between sets. really boring. then i went to the inside which was just a mess. nothing really working. overall i would say things look better than they really are. especially from the cams.

Posted by: dsx at December 16, 2003 01:37 PM

sounds fun/iffy. I may do the coastal drive in a bit to see what's working. Anyone down? It's gunna be pumping tomorrow! I'm going to Mt. Bachelor this weekend to staff a bunch of high school kids. I'm going for free. CAN'T WAIT!!!

Posted by: Ian at December 16, 2003 01:55 PM

Ian, Bachelor is tits. Don't know if you have ever been there or not but you should score some serious mountain time. By far my favorite mountain. Gonna score for sure. Hit up the brew co. back in town if you can.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 16, 2003 02:25 PM

just surfed the middle (manuel .......) with ten guys----I would say I saw 30+ barrels in the 2 hrs. I surfed- wayyyy better than it looks- definetely some fun beatings to be had too...couple boards broken.
Alex @ Aqua and co. were getting pitted.
Got 15+ solid waves...few in/out barrels...it's good out there.
Quit your job like me....or actually- don't.

Posted by: toby at December 16, 2003 02:29 PM

OB: hit it NOW parts of outer bars are firing. Not the cleanest but just saw a guy drop into what was easily DOH. Cheers...!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 16, 2003 03:30 PM

got back from Hawaii last night and saw better waves this morning than i saw the whole weekend, and sound like you guys scored!..looked good in HI even though the day i made it to the north shore the contest was called off (sunday), it was still id say 12 foot faces (probably 6 foot hawaian?) and crrrazy looking pipeline. But got to see, one of the irons's and a couple of other pro's going nuts, also a little bleached blond kid who looked to be about 12 charging..eukai(?) beach next to pipeline looked very doable, but still more crowded than a perfect day at FP's and linda mar combined and it looked like everyone had something to prove..i had had to many coors lights anyway and no board..super fun mini trip though and had a few super stony foamy longboard sessions at this outside ish reef at wakiki..the best was this pre dawn sunrise session, shoulder high sets, perfect shape, me and 2 guys out, boardshorts..best log session of my life..ready to freeze now

Posted by: bagel at December 16, 2003 05:49 PM

welcome back Ian!!! Have fun up North. Sounds like a pretty good trip bagel...the log session, in boardshorts sounds pretty damn good right now.

Gonna try to get to the beach or somewhere's tomorrow to do some spectating/video ing. S/B fun...hope to see some of the peeps there...

Posted by: jdz at December 16, 2003 05:56 PM

got out tonight at the south end, the new swell is already here, big wide walls forming off the outer bars..."we're here"...most not quite reeling, but a few did. saw a few bigger sticks out, some of the chargers must be warming up for tomorrow. i hung out on the inside of an outer bar with my 6'11", held me steady on a few OH drops.

the question for tomorrow's dp: watch ob, or try to find a protected spot that will be surfable for us average joes?

Posted by: loon at December 16, 2003 06:37 PM

wow, surfed last night till dark. so fun. second lot last peak. such a beautiful sunset. awesome waves.

surfed today, at noon. so fun for about 5 minutes, then my board broke. way uncool, especially since i was hoping it would stay together for one more day.

does anyone have a 7'4" mini gun that they want to sell? tomorrow morning? let me know, cause i'm in the market.
seriously. i'll bring cash to DP.

such bad timing for a board to snap. although i did swim back out and body surf for a bit. lots of fun. got seriously pitted, then drilled then drilled again. nice to get tossed and know your board isn't going to whack you in the head.

ok, cheers.
-elias

Posted by: elias at December 16, 2003 09:29 PM

elias....bummer about the board! that sucks. good luck landing another one before dp to charge the new swell!!

Posted by: ck at December 16, 2003 09:56 PM

SF bouy at 8.5 @ 21 sec. Oh snips its going be crispy in the morning!

Posted by: Kaiser at December 16, 2003 10:35 PM

Weds OB am: HUGE Freaking Mongo! playing hooky this morning, running out the door w/a friend to watch Mavericks breaking. Enjoy, amigos...

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at December 17, 2003 07:07 AM

I love you guys.

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