swell down.. fun up!
Expecting another day of gigantor surf i borrowed Robme's 7'5" mini-gun last night. Jake, Lerm and i met at VFers at sunrise. Surprisingly it was MUCH smaller today, though every 10 minutes or so a solid DOH set would mushily break on the outer bars. The only two wave-riders out there were two skillful kayakers (wave-skiers?) who were successfully catching and shredding the long, peeling, burgery faces. We sat and deliberated and hemmed and hawed about this attractive-looking inside right just in front of the beach chalet.. In between sets we watched nicely-shaped, head-high rights grind and barrel and spit in this one spot. Hmmm... At one point we actually started to take our wetsuits out of the car.. but then we watched a true set come in and reak havoc on the spot we had our eyes on.. Hmm... soo.... back in the car.. past sloat which looked kinda similar.. real mushy on the outside bars and then harrowing, thumping closeouts on the inside.. a few guys paddling out.. We kept driving down into San Mateo County.. checked a few offshore-groomed locations.. then finally settled on this little, covy right that was working kind-of like 4-mile on a mediocre day. nobody out. The three of us each caught a handful of super-enjoyable, mellow, head-high, peeling rights before a few more folks paddled out. Still there was a constant influx of rideable waves and everybody seemed pretty stoked.. I actually caught more waves than i did duckdives!!! Maybe about 12 or 15 rides and only about 4 or 5 duckdives!!! It was nice to work on some down-the-line carving and just generally having some consistent open faces on which to move, react, dance, meld. Super fun and basically just what the doctor ordered!!!
on the way back to town we drove by Sloat and it looked RIDICULOUSLY, shockingly good!! We watched a few double-overhead+, offshore-licked A-frames cascade and peel in both directions, with riders barely making the drops and then tracking strait paths down the line.. big wave styleee.. it looked really fun and if i didn't have to get to work i would have re-suited up and given that mini-gun a spin.. but.. hopefully they'll be some juice left tomorrow.
it was great to chill with Jake for a bit.. The dude is just coming off a soul-searching 5 weeks in Indo (bali, lombok) and is now planning a central american assault. Damn! that's what's up!
sorry for the late report.. i'm running a bit late today..
word..
e
some shots of Mavs from yesterday from Roy Toft (thanks Bagus!)
damn, sounds fun. I opted for warm bed. Jake you there? What's up with the Indo hand book/niceness write up?
Posted by: Ian at December 18, 2003 11:37 AMjsut got out from Sloat- one word...PERFECT. DOH, offshore, medium paddle- soo much stoke out there.
seriously world class
Posted by: toby at December 18, 2003 12:07 PMAs e said, a good day to get wet. Classic Sloat Stuff. I surfed Sloat from about 8-9:30. Very punishing inside bar but beautifully organized outside. Caught a bunch of fun set waves. OK, here's today's rant. with the increase of surfers out on a day like today it is a real sin for waves to go by unridden. On three successive occasions I was paddling for a wave with someone else in better position. When it looked like they were committed I backed out. Each time they then backed out at the last second because they appered to think they couldn't make the drop. Here's the deal. If you're in position and paddle for a catchable wave you better damn well catch it or certainly have paddled your hardest to get into it. In the end those probably would have been three of the best waves of my session.
Rant over. Now go get wet.
Posted by: kdalle at December 18, 2003 12:07 PMOB: Mid stretch not as consistent as south ( drove past earlier) but there's clean waves to be had. Scant few peeps sprinkled about all morning. Waves smaller all over with Decepto lulls to hide the DOH sneaker sets that cruise in and mow everything in their path - except the well-positioned solo surfer [I've looked up and some shoulders surfed on these] maybe 2ce an hour. And not all incoming bombs at the same spots at once - parts OB are taking turns. Paddle out looks, heh, vigorous but 1/2 of what it did yesterday - however it's got an on/off switch due to sneaky sets. Today seems to be about timing. Outside waves tend to close out right in the middle - BOOM - huge whitewater thumpiness, then mushes out towards shoulders. One soloist just caught a quick right, maybe 3 feet overhead.
Scuze the long post but lots of variety out there. 2 minutes from now this entire observation will probably be outdated...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 18, 2003 12:30 PMWanted to express thanks to kdalle and all the OB chargers for providing complete stoke to those of us watching from the Sloat lot this morning. Saw some fantastic rides from 8:30 till 9:00. Amazing how watching friends drop in on fun waves is often times as rewarding of an experience.
Thanks guys!!
Posted by: d looose at December 18, 2003 12:46 PMdamn.. sloat looked/sounds like FUN!!! fark.. today's a good day to get the multi-sesh, 6-hours in the water.
check out this skateboarding loop
Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 12:48 PMFun stuff! Sloat was soooo fun!
Posted by: SFKneelo at December 18, 2003 12:53 PMDawn Patrol: on the way South on Great Highway the Greater, right around Lawton... a seal was in
the slow lane! Thank God the car in front of me
saw it... I would have nailed it.
no way, the seals are cruising the highway?..maybe hes on an awesome adventure downtown right now, riding the cablecars down california street, talking to dogs and what not..
props to all the chargers..i gotta get my lazy ass out of bed early tomorrow and find something..
whoa nelly!
Posted by: bagel at December 18, 2003 01:13 PMLindy looked really small but definitely doable this morning.. might be worse this afternoon with the lower tide?? but.. the winds are offshore and the swell isn't really getting in there.. which is a good thing..
Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 01:14 PMjaayeeeeezus. thanks for the mavs pics, e. scary!! who's on the yellow board?
Posted by: friendly at December 18, 2003 01:21 PMnot to be a downer.. but this just came through to me here at work..
Short list of Bush's environmental achievements... i placed the most relevant one to us surfers at the top. If your uncle or cousin or dad is an ardent Bush supporting Republican.. put this list in his Christmas stocking.
- Allowed untreated sewage to be blended with treated sewage, cut funding for local sewage treatment, and didn't require health officials to warn public about sewage in water.
- Issued public health warnings to pregnant women and children about mercury after announcing policy changes to triple amount of mercury pollution allowed from power plants.
- Discovered by EPA Inspector General to have lied about post 9/11 environmental health hazards near Ground Zero.
- Promoted a wildfire policy that expanded commercial logging in the backcountry but did little to protect people where they live.
- Became first administration to support shifting burden of Superfund toxic waste cleanups from polluters to taxpayers.
- Opened nearly 9 million pristine acres in Northwest Alaska to the oil and gas industry for exploration and drilling.
- Dismantled provision of Clean Air Act that requires oldest, dirtiest power plants and refineries to curb soot and smog pollution.
- Obliterated the process of critical habitat designation for imperiled wildlife under the Endangered Species Act.
- Proposed a national Energy Bill that did nothing to reduce dependence on foreign oil, repair or address antiquated electricity grid, or
protect special places from oil and gas drilling.
- Ended a 25-year ban on the sale of PCB-laden real estate.
- Refused to classify industrial carbon emissions, linked to global warming, as an official pollutant under the Clean Air Act.
- Continued to withhold documents from secret meetings between Bush/Cheney Energy Task Force and energy industry lobbyists.
- Secretly negotiated backroom deal to exempt giant animal factories from laws governing air
and toxic pollution.
- Proposed fantasy hydrogen power initiative to improve auto fuel efficiency rather than promoting more proven technologies like gas-electric hybrids.
- Expanded the legal loophole that allows obnoxious road claims through federally protected wilderness, national parks, and public lands.
- Continued pattern of willful negligence for enforcement of even basic clean water and clean air laws.
Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 01:25 PMSloat or Backdoor?
Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 01:34 PMSea Lion Takes a Wrong Turn
1 hour, 45 minutes ago
The PIXPage Staff
San Francisco police found a young California Sea Lion traveling southbound on the Great Highway near Judah Street.
Officers managed to move it off the roadway and onto the dunes.
Later, volunteers from the Marine Mammal Center transported the pup to the center for observation. They say it is not uncommon for a young sea lion to get lost in high surf and wander off.
http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=350&e=3&u=/kpix/20031218/lo_kpix/8688
Posted by: mwsf at December 18, 2003 01:42 PMOB yesterday.. Bruce's photos
Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 02:12 PMwhoa sick photos
Posted by: robme at December 18, 2003 02:32 PMFriendly, that pic is of Sloat yesterday morning.
Now, for today's events: Just got back to cube-land and Slizz was unreal. I think the shape was better around 11:00 to 1:00 as it started to deteriorate on the inside a touch*. (*Note* - it went from unreal to slightly less then unreal but still epic!). Solid sets coming through with occasional DOH I guess. Most were overhead+ I would say but then again my wave-meter is not perfect. Paddle out was a piece of cake, took me like 5 minutes max. Waves are really powerful and moving fast though, something you had to adjust to. If you go out, make sure you keeping paddling as the wind up the face is fierce and it gives you a momentary hang up on the lip until you release. Longer board the better I suppose.
All in all, a top 10% day out there. Vibe was great. For KDalle's rant, practicing a simple "you go instead of me" mentality out there isn't a bad thing either. Let a friend have a wave. I let one go today as I knew I would have had a super late drop at the peak. Guy come back out stoked on the one I let him go on.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 18, 2003 02:41 PMi was intimidated enough by blakstah's forecast yesterday that i headed straight to princeton for a quick get-wetty. as i drove south on the coast in the predawn light the swell seemed smaller than expected, but my work schedule allowed for no scouting time today. the jettay provided a few mixed-up knee-high rides but got worse while i was out there, leading me to suspect that something was amiss with the swell. on the way home this was confirmed when i saw a beautiful head-high peeling barrel at a certain steepish beachbreak. alas...
sounds like it might be possible to redeem myself tomorrow am, see you guys out there.
Posted by: loon at December 18, 2003 03:44 PMToday for me was one of the best days I have surfed OB, I got just a handful of waves and ate it 4 times but I caught waves that jacked up and made my 6'9" surfboard feel like a skateboard. The drops were like half pipes the offshores held me up till it was steep as hell. It is an incredible feeling when you know you have made the drop and can see that large wallish cylinder ahead from the back and front
I went out at VFW from 11:30-1:30 and it looked like it was dropping in size and getting worse as I left. Today was similar to Thanksgiving but for some reason I got much better rides. Maybe its just my memory that sucks.
Posted by: phil young at December 18, 2003 03:44 PMI suck.
I too thought it would be rougher today so opted for a more protected break. One of the few reefs around here that works on a high tide and doesn't share a parking lot with Mavs.
Just head high there and the offshore winds were gale force. Almost blown out in reverse. Whatever than means. Doof and I surfed there from dawn to 9 with four other people. He drove me back home and he left to check Sloat, even though we were both pretty spent. I then checked Sloat and said to myself, "Fucking hell, I have to surf this."
Called into my boss to change my leave slip from 4 hours to 5 and went out for 45 minutes at Sloat. 3 waves, size dropping, but still fun.
Damn, Damn, Damn.
Posted by: Friend #1 at December 18, 2003 03:55 PME,
As per your environmental list. This is exactly why I am trying to get my wife to move with me to Aukland.
Posted by: Phil Young at December 18, 2003 04:00 PMDo they need web designers in Aukland????
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Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 04:20 PMyour view tomorrow
Posted by: e at December 18, 2003 04:57 PMA quick heads-up on news of interest. Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA) is considering banning fires from Ocean Beach. They are taking testimony on the topic for a few more weeks. The easy way to have your say is via email at: www.nps.gov/goga then hit "contact us". My own take was they need to patrol the beach more, especially after dark to keep a lid on the boozehound litterbugs that party hearty and leave their crap for the rest of us to deal with. The beach was a mess the day after the big coastal cleanup, because there was a warm night and GGNRA didn't patrol. Fires are okay but the litter isn't. In Carmel, they allow campfires on their beach but only in firerings, and they don't allow alcohol. It gets old picking up someone else's empty beer bottles, especially when they got tossed in the fire and are broken. Leave it on the beach and if you step on one someday you know you could have made a difference. People that don't respect OB should pay the price. If patrols aren't in the cards, I'd live with a fire ban just to reduce the mess. Whatever your views, it helps to get them on record. Manana manana - hope the swell doesn't junk or float out too bad.
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