E's Surf Report: swell down.. good waves somewhere??

e, you shoulda hung a bit longer. I went out at Sloat from 7:30-9:00. The inside was easier than yesterday and the outside was less consistent and a bit sectiony and mushy. Looks like a new swell combine with the old. Waves felt thicker than yesterday. Anyhow, by 8:00 sets were more frequent and many had solid 8-10' peaks. I actually like this morning better than yesterday because the wave were a little more challenging and there were only one or two other guys out the entire time.

Posted by: kdalle at December 19, 2003 10:46 AM

arggh.. good on ya kdalle. That's cool that you scored. I was thinking that i should have jumped in at Sloat.. d'oh! I should have abided by the rule that if it's surfable at OB but your considering Pacifica.. SURF AT OB!

Posted by: e at December 19, 2003 10:56 AM

yesterday was alltime for me. i havent checked it today but i will make a run afternoon time. sometimes you have a combination of conditions that really make for a nice surf session and if you are surfing well that day its even better. for me 12/18 was that perfect day. from 11am - 1:30pm i grabbed some of the better drops/bottom turns of the year. the day was great. here is a sequence looking north towards vincente st.

Posted by: dsx at December 19, 2003 11:01 AM

i also woke up around 4 am this morning, must have been amped for the last day of offshores prior to this next storm. i also passed on ob after taking a good long look. 2nd lot had some fast inside barrels, in retrospect should have gone out there. kellys seemed workable if you were willing to deal with the warble and some whitewater, but i left after watching the first guy out get swept about 50 yards north within the first 3 mins of launching.

after a quick drive-by check in southern pacifica i opted to head back north a bit. went out around the pier and it was ok, but too much tide. by that time i only had enough time for a short session, wound up being a one-waver: a decent shoulder-high left wall, made a nice drop and then got hammered trying to make my way around a section.

feels like i am in a 2-week wave quality slump, but at least i've been getting out. and blakestah has me looking forward to next week already.

i am renting a vw van for a 4 day trip with the wife & dog starting xmas day. we will probably go south, big sur if it's warm enough, onto jalama, and even further south if the swell angle isn't too northerly. this will be our first time camping in a vw van like this. if anyone has any relevant advice/input -- van-related logistics, good places to camp, nice off-the-beaten-path roads to drive, good hikes, etc. -- please let me know.

Posted by: loon at December 19, 2003 11:13 AM

I went out at Rockaway from 7-8. Was very flat at first but sets started to come in. I got about 3-4 fun shoulder high rights. Looks like Sloat was the place to go.

Posted by: Joe O at December 19, 2003 11:25 AM

Did the south winds just kill OB? Looks like it did from the cam views. Had a feeling this would happen. Should have GONE this morning!

I had a sinking feeling in my stomach as I drove back towards the office that my surf potential would get blown out before noon! Damn.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 19, 2003 12:02 PM

smooth wahine

Posted by: e at December 19, 2003 12:21 PM

Yo E, check your email.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 19, 2003 12:24 PM

I paddled out in the Kounty around 7:30am and got one disheveled bomb. There were definitely some good waves to be had on the outside. I was surprised how much force there was in the water compared to how it looked when coming over the dunes. One was enough for me this morning. Just not feeling it...

Posted by: Shralp at December 19, 2003 12:45 PM

wow yesterday looks perfect..woke up, went up on the roof to check it, went back to surf FB's for another hour..wa wa..it did look like the waves were really pushing north, like fast..on my way to work saw a guy get a huge long left in front of fulton..another day and no surfing..

Posted by: bagel at December 19, 2003 01:02 PM

slater is second in his heat with 18 mins. left..andy advanced allready..occys out..
i like those live scores..

Posted by: bagel at December 19, 2003 01:15 PM

Surfed in town. Swell was kind of weird and raw, so not that good at least where I was.

Loon, you can camp out at El Cap State Beach just north of SB (which, I'm sure you know). I think you can make reservations in advance which is probably advisable. It's a little inland, but highway 25 is very scenic for getting up and down central California. Foxen Caynon Road in the Santa Maria Valley is sweet. You can drive around there and do some wine tasting by making a big loop out of it and some other of the smaller roads in the area. There's some really good wine that comes out of that valley.

Andy Irons scored a 16.27 in his heat in round three. Sick.

-d

Posted by: dano at December 19, 2003 02:52 PM

Got to Sloat @ about 7:45...saw kdalle and the other 2 guys out there. Definitely looked challenging and I just couldn't get my sorry ass motivated to paddle out...so I went to a clients to do some work...DOH! Looking forward to Sunday. Be nice to get in the water before going up North for Xmas. So just so you guys know...I will be leaving town for 5 days...which, yep, means it's gonna be unreal at the beach. Merry XMAS and Happy Hanukkah!!

Posted by: jdz at December 19, 2003 02:55 PM

go kelly!!

i'm listening to live audio.. it's kinda cool as i can do work (a bit distractedly) while listening to the action.

Posted by: e at December 19, 2003 02:57 PM

damn...that live audio is kinda addicting.

Posted by: jdz at December 19, 2003 03:16 PM

9.0 on a broken board! Damn.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 19, 2003 03:40 PM

i know.. crazy..

hopefully andy v. kelly in the final.. then kelly takes him down super hard. actually.. i hope andy loses in the semi because i'd rather Jake Patto win the triple crown.. i love andy's surfing.. i mean.. jesus! but.. i'm not a big andy fan.

Posted by: e at December 19, 2003 03:43 PM

B-R-U-C-E-Y....

Kelly, Bruce, Parko, Andy final would be sick...

Only if Brucey took out Andy and Kelly wins it all.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 19, 2003 03:58 PM

i want some video!!! broken board...how do you do that?

Posted by: jdz at December 19, 2003 04:12 PM

im with kaiser on all points

but wouldnt mind if parko won that final..that guys the best

it would be cool to see derek ho win it too or get in the final

Posted by: bagel at December 19, 2003 04:12 PM

what's up niceness! great to hang with everybody on my short trip up to sf. and props to all the chargers for putting on a beautiful show as i watched the fun times roll in at sloat, and for sharing a bit on the heavy action the day before. always good stuff to read, and i look forward to staying stoked from you guys while i'm not charging winter nj waves.

ian, i don't know if you're out there today, but i guess this is gonna be the closest post to an indo report. what can i say? it was a rediculous trip, 35 days for a total of 31 different sessions... we were fortunate with swell, and saw a good 5 different swells fill in... basically 4 out of 5 weeks with swell. not too much double o insanity, which was good... mostly overhead, which was big enough considering the power of the reefs. humbling power. had fun practicing my backhand and developing some style on the ubiquitous lefts (like what santa cruz is for going right)... sweet performance breakouts on a playground of a wave in Lombok (like surfing empty Slot)... most special wave may have been a southshore bay on Lombok reached by outrigger with just 3 mates... and the 4 of us surfed a Heavy right... no back, just open ocean, bottom sucking ledge drop out... more than half the overhead face felt below sea level... a beautiful Indo dream, really. so I guess that's it! i felt very safe, it is too inexpensive to believe, and while there are crowded lineups on bali, it was all mellow and simply a pleasure to be surfing in the tropical water.

oh, my best barrel story (I was not overwhelmingly successful in getting shacked... just a ton of power in the barrel... didn't find it too often this trip)... but on a small, more inside Balangan wave, I experienced what felt like an inside-out aquarium... with only about 1 second of barrel time before it became punching through the backdoor time, I was inside a crystal clear cylindrical tube which was reflecting the shallow, colorful reef below with amazing clarity. that was a neat place to be.

alright homies, thanks for everyone who helped me on my way, and i hope ya'll score again real soon at home, in this wonderfully beautiful golden state of california. peace!

Posted by: jake at December 19, 2003 04:18 PM

You can watch live pipe cam from a link on

http://surf-news.com/

Needs to be restarted every so often. Sweet!

Posted by: Wayne at December 19, 2003 04:52 PM

ya wayne! thanx man..

good to meet you the other night jake, safe travels

Posted by: bagel at December 19, 2003 05:09 PM

seems like kaiser roll might have predicted the final

Posted by: bagel at December 19, 2003 05:49 PM

17.6 for Kelly in the semi finals so far... totally sick. Kaiser looks like he is going to nail it. Bagel, I agree... Parko is the man. The lines he draws! Gonna be world champ someday.

-d

Posted by: dano at December 19, 2003 06:03 PM

WOW!!!

Parkinson
A Irons
Slater
MacDonald

in the Finals - this should be sweet!!!

Posted by: d looose at December 19, 2003 06:24 PM

ooooooooh oh, ai wins!!!!!

Posted by: jake at December 19, 2003 07:06 PM

I very literally almost died on Wednesday, I put up a little page about it, has a bunch of pics and a couple of vids of the coast going off:

http://wrybread.com/surf/yikes.shtml

Here's a teaser, Scott's Creek, note the tiny surfer in the pit:

Posted by: wrybread at December 19, 2003 08:14 PM

SWEET! Mt. Bachelor, here I come! I leave tomorrow morning for a 4 day trip to the mountains. Taking a bunch of high school kids for a trip. I'm going for free! Hopefully I'll come back with some stories! Hope to get some pow-pow stashes for everyone.

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